Q&A: H22A Project!

[rick_spiff]

Okay, I'll be brief. If you want to do this, be prepared to build new engine mounts or considerably modify the ones the H22A comes with. I haven't finished making the ones for my car, so no measurements yet, but rest assured it ain't easy.

Learn how to weld, and you may be able to pull it off.

On a related subject, I'm in need of a new p/s hose... which costs about $180 from the dealer. I know that with a couple of fittings, I can make a hybrid from the pair I have here (one from 88 Accord LX, one from JDM 93 Prelude VTEC). But, are these hoses made of copper or steel? I haven't gotten them down to the hydraulic shop yet, but if they're made of something that tough, I may have to have a custom one made....

Haven't put in all the components for the EFI conversion yet... had to fix my SE-i. Now that she's running like a champ, I can finish off my H22 project.

See ya on the streets.

p.s. Noticed a recently locked post about an H22A for $100. If the motor is good and there's a machine shop around, AND you don't mind spending some serious time on this... then go for it. Nothing like 200+ HP and 160+ ft/lb of torque under your right foot to get ya smilin'! :)

[smufguy]

i aint trying to argue with you or calling accomplishments as bullshit cause i dont know either its true or bullshit. So i stand in the middle. yeah we all know that the H22 swap gotta be all custom and for practical reasons, its just not worth our money. Like i mentioned to another guy who talked about a H22, most of the people who are on this forum are either students, or guys who has their family cars passed on to them or just some family guys. All we can afford is just this 3rd gen disregarding the passion we have for it. Unless ur hit with a fatso lottery, this swap is only a waste of money or would say, a non-profitable swap. The cost efficient ratio for this swap is way too high for anyone to handle.

Anyway, i would suggest that if u really indeed are doing ur H22 swap, keep us updated so we wont call u a bullshitter or send someone ur picture or ask anyone who can host it for u, u got more than enough members to help u out.

http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4395 << has been there for a long long long time and for a very good reason.

[3G Jester]

rick....how old are you and where do you work.

[rick_spiff]

Married. 23 Years old. College graduate. Engineer for Bechtel.

The car's been in the shop for ten months (counting two months waiting on parts and three months getting married, a month getting moved...)

I'll be putting the engine in (with all new engine mounts) and moving it to the yard to finish up the electrical/interior work this weekend.

PICS: -> http://www.geocities.com/rick_spiff/car/index.html

There's another roll coming...

Sigh. Here's the story.

My '88 LX, after 60,000 miles and four years of abuse, began to die. The cap and rotor started toasting themselves out of the blue (about 400 miles and I had to buy a new set). I'd gone through three good coils and every inch of wire in the ignition system to no avail. Considering the carb was still working more from hope than expectation, I had to make a decision: new car or severe rebuild?

At that time, I didn't know about the 3G board, and had made measurements at junkyards. After lot of guessing and lot of haggling with shitty dealers trying to find a decent B16/20A or A20, I got an H22A and prayed it would fit. It does fit, with the transmission, and quite well. I won't describe here how difficult it has been to fit the sucker in, but it DOES FIT.

Consider this an example of what not to do, unless your ego is big enough to demand you own such a hybrid.

p.s. I'm taking down dimensions and making notes in my notebook. Once this is finished, I'll update that page with drawings for modifications and new parts, a full parts list, and the rest of the 'story' around this conversion.

p.p.s. On an aside, my wife's '97 GrandAm died two months into this project, so I had to stop working on it for a bit and put in overtime to buy a '89 SE-i so she could get around. I love that little car.

[rick_spiff]

p.p.p.s.

http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17356&highlight=H22A

http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17969&highlight=H22A

http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17958

[89AcCOrDmike]

thats nuts man, best of luck to you

[toastyghost]

Looking at that kind of reminded me of seeing pics of a dude dropping an ASG 5.0 (stroked up performance package of the Cadillac 4.9L V8) in his Lumina.

[rick_spiff]

Call me brain dead. I sidestepped the p/s hose problem by simply bending the JDM pipe with my bare hands. A little loop and it hooks up just fine with plenty of room for the engine.

Let's hear it for brute force and bruised palms!

[carotman]

I can only give you some advice, I don't think you're bullshitting or anything... you seem to really want to swap that engine. I usually don't read H22A engine swap posts cause it's usually bullshit there. However, you seem serious liek I said...

I will give you some advice on your "conversion"

For the fuel lines... it's going to be really easy. You just need to install 1 fuel line from the pump to the fromnt for the car. the Old carb fuel line will act as the EFI return line. Then, get a custom high pressure hose to fit your fuel filter and the H22A fuel rail.

For the hydro clutch, it's really easy, I don't know why no one mentioned that yet. There are conversion kits for that kind of setup. It's basicaly a cable actuated master cylinder. Some motorcycles guys do that for their brakes.. just look a bit on the net and I'm sure you'll find something. For the shifter cables. Just use the same setup found on the H22A swaped Civics... no biggie... Like I said to you in another thread, if you get the engine to actually mount in the car, your only real problem will be the axles. All the rest (like wirings) is only a matter of time....

[fuzzy audio]

DUDE, Rick. You are NUTS! Hey my Uncle lives in Richland, maybe I can swing by next time I am out that way, see your project and all?

[smufguy]

yo carot, does the diameter of the fuel hose matter with how much pressure he is running? I mean i know the physics behind the flow thru a narrow pipe has more velocity than a bigger pipe, but does having a stock connector neck (The banjo fitting on the fuel pump and the fuel filter in the fuel line) matter? U see what i mean? Whats the use of having a high pressure fuel line when u run stock banjos and stock exit hose from the fuel pump? Im really puzzled by it cause i got a 10Ft high pressure custom feed line that i took out of Chris' car (civteck) and i was gonna use it but i was like would it matter?


NOTE: Carb tank WILL have feed problems towards the last 1/4th of the tank, when someone says it does not, they are lying. I have it and it gave me probs last night so dont ever use a carb tank for a efi swap. :)

[rick_spiff]

I've got to go order some high pressure hose from the local speed shop, and the pump's in. The problem is, I would prefer to use metal tubing for the supply line from the gas tank. Does anyone run just high pressure hose to the engine compartment? If so, how did you route it?

So, unless I can get an affirmative on the high pressure hose (and a place to route it), I'll hit McMaster-Carr and get a tubing bender...

The gas tank conundrum... yes. For once, I'm going to quit doing the engineer thing (i.e. modify the tank itself) and do the mechanic thing (i.e. pilfer the boneyard).

Oh, and on the subject of fuel lines, I couldn't get an EFI line from the Honda dealership--they don't stock them anymore. I mean, wtf?!

[carotman]

I'm sure you can order a stock fuel line from www.hondaautomotiveparts.com. Just use that one and you won't have any problems.

The diameter might affect the pressure. A stock size hose will be more than enough :)

[smufguy]

bigger rubber braided hose will not be the right one to use for high pressure fuel line cause of the fuel velocity drop in the transit. Anyway, The high pressure line that chris had in my car was running it on the passenger side under the carpet.

U have to drill a hole under the rear passenger seat on the passenger side and run the hose under the front passenger side seat railing (there is ahole all the way to the end) and cut a hole on the floor pan near the AC drip hose and it should be enough to reach the fuel filter.

Chris had his Higher pressure line made for $150 bucks with custom banjo fittings.

[rick_spiff]

150 bucks for a fuel line? Yikes!

Okay, let the engineer dispel some myths.

Hose diameter does matter. Bigger hose _can_ (not always, but can) cause pressure loss.

Banjo fittings, in a fuel system, are inconsequential pressure losses due to the absurd flow rates. An A20A3 cruising on the highway consumes maybe .0334 gpm. At full throttle racing, even assuming that you're getting some serious flowback to the tank, I can't see the flow going higher than .35 gpm. Most aftermarket fuel pumps I have seen are rated in Liters per _hour_. Pressure is what's important here.

smufguy has good advice though--a larger hose equals more fuel, which means more mass, which means more back _pressure_, and low back pressure is good.

So, I'm thinking steel tubing (3/8"?) for most of the run, and a little bit of hose for the tight nooks and crannys. The passenger side does have the most room, and after what I've done to the engine compartment (wait until I post the pictures), two holes in the cab won't faze me.

btw, the stock Prelude tubing is all 3/8" steel. Probably not SS, but that's what I can get, so that's what she'll have.

[carotman]

DAMN!

What's wrong with the Hodna fuel line?????
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com./auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1989&catcgry3=4DR+LXI&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=FUEL+PIPE+%28PGM-FI%29

It's only 38 bucks and will perform just as good as an aftermarket one....

[rick_spiff]

AMEN to that!

[smufguy]

carotman, if u get it from a parts store, its more like $60 thats why i fished mine outta the junkyard. talk about breakin ur elbow.

Anywho, all this talk reflects why half a year ago i dug the stock fuel line from the junkyard and ditched the high pressure fuel line that chris had in the car.

[rick_spiff]

None of the local boneyards have much in the way of Hondas. They're getting to be really hard to find in Washington state.

I'm going to keep a hairy eyeball out for parts cars here.....

[Vanilla Sky]

any updates?

[rick_spiff]

Engine: In.

Transmission: In.

Axles: Umm... we'll get back to that.

Fuel system: Here's the fun part! I got the hose I need for the bits between the system's hard piping and the various components (feed line to fuel filter, fuel filter to fuel rail, fuel pump to cross-pipe). Now all I need is the hard pipe. There's also an LXi gas tank I should be able to install in my car, which will help enormously. I already have the fuel pump, so barring the pipe and tank, things are looking good here.

Electronics: Soldering on them today. The main ECU-to-engine harness is around 18-20 inches too short for the 3G... the rest of the problems (such as the cruise control box mounting being all funky) will be enumerated and discussed later.

Air Conditioning: ... Won't fit without big modifications. It hits 107-110F around here in the summer, but oh well, at least I can go fast.

Oh yes, and pictures. See if this link works:

http://www.geocities.com/rick_spiff/car/H22A_in_da_car.jpg

After I'm done around the house I'll get back to it, then update the web page. One disaster at a time here, folks.

[dXsquared]

holy fuck!!! copy and paste and it works

as if you have H22!!!!!!! thats soo damn cool

Travis

[smufguy]

well i cant see the page. I get and error message :(

[dXsquared]

copy and paste the link...

Travis

[rick_spiff]

I guess geocities doesn't like direct image links (bastards!) so I updated the main page.

Pics are in the fourth 'section,' near the bottom.

http://www.geocities.com/rick_spiff/car/index.html

It doesn't... look out of place... does it?

[Justin86]

Well dude your crazy. I wouldn't be to willing to drop that much time and money into an engine swap. I'm still crazy enough to try for the B18C1 swap. A little easier then the H22a. :D I just need to decide if I want to go ahead and turbo my car for the mean time or get the engine now?

[smufguy]

Who did the welding? Did they even sand the paint down before welding? What kinda weld is that? Tac or mig? Looks like it would come right off the mounts the very first time u punch it. BUt nice progress. Gonna see a 2nd 3gee with a H22 cool stuff :D

[Justin86]

The 2nd with a H22a. I never heard about the first one to do it???

[rick_spiff]

Who did the welding? Did they even sand the paint down before welding? What kinda weld is that? Tac or mig? Looks like it would come right off the mounts the very first time u punch it. BUt nice progress. Gonna see a 2nd 3gee with a H22 cool stuff

I did all of the welding. There's a spot weld you can't see on this one that my dad made to stabilize the driver's mount. I'll have to chip it off when I install the new driver's mount (stock H22A piece, by the way).

Sand the paint off? I don't think sandpaper would take it off. I used a side grinder with a wire wheel to get the paint off. I don't think I have any prep pics.

All the welding was done with a constant voltage arc welding machine (Sears brand) and either 1/8" 7014 or 3/32" E6013 rod. The 1/8" was some Lincoln stuff that's simply awesome.

And yes, I pretty much suck at welding (first timer!). As for whether or not it will hold... well, I AM an engineer. If anything breaks, I'd be more curious than upset.

And yes, I need to frame that picture.

p.s. someone in Canada has a white 3G with an H22A in it. Show car. Not sure if it even runs....

[Justin86]

Well trust me just because you are an engineer won't have any thing to do with if the weld holds. Just because you put five beads on a part dosen't bean it will hold. You need the weld to penetrate so far into the peice and there is a certain way you overlap welds. This process isn't really tough, but you can easily forget something and mess up.
The welds should hold up just fine for you, but a year or two down the road you might developed a problem with a weld cracking .

[smufguy]

copy and paste this link in the Address bar >>>http://89accord.netfirms.com/what%20to%20do%20and%20what%20not%20to/82.jpg

[rick_spiff]

Well, if something breaks down the road, I won't hesitate to call in my dad.

He's been a journeyman welder longer than I've been alive. He does this stuff like he's not even trying. And if he can't get it right... then we'll try again.

Honestly, I worry, but I'm going to put it through it's paces before I start laying down 15 foot long rubber tracks.

[RobT5580]

I give you props for actually starting the project and im sure you have a long ways to go but least the engine is in there. If i had the time and equipment here i wouldnt mind getting a JDM h22 in a accord. Too bad Place Racing never made the mounts and Hydro tranny conversion for the accord it would be a nice swap if done right. I didnt care for their B-Series mounts but if the pass side and rear mounts are welded in they i would feel better about it. Plus when they were bolted in the motor was very tight and had no room to move at all and if welded you could move them a bit to get it perfect.

but good luck and hope to see this get finished because to my knowledge i have only seen pictures of the one in Canada which was nicely done.

[Justin86]

Well that is good that you have help if you need it but I would keep a close eye on the welds! You can never be too safe.

[smufguy]

thats one of the reasons i love bolting stuff on. Not too much shear load but a bolt can withstand tortional and axial loads. :)

[Project-LXi]

Originally posted by rick_spiff
I did all of the welding. There's a spot weld you can't see on this one that my dad made to stabilize the driver's mount. I'll have to chip it off when I install the new driver's mount (stock H22A piece, by the way).

Sand the paint off? I don't think sandpaper would take it off. I used a side grinder with a wire wheel to get the paint off. I don't think I have any prep pics.

All the welding was done with a constant voltage arc welding machine (Sears brand) and either 1/8" 7014 or 3/32" E6013 rod. The 1/8" was some Lincoln stuff that's simply awesome.

And yes, I pretty much suck at welding (first timer!). As for whether or not it will hold... well, I AM an engineer. If anything breaks, I'd be more curious than upset.

And yes, I need to frame that picture.

p.s. someone in Canada has a white 3G with an H22A in it. Show car. Not sure if it even runs....

It runs, there were many threads about it on Torono Accords forum. The owner's name is Rob, and if you look hard enough you can even find out how to contact him ;)

[k-roy]

The H22 is an expensive swap. I have a friend with one about to be dropped in a 94 Civic coupe. The engine/tranny/ecu was about $2,500. The labor is around $2000. The beefed up suspension needed and a few other things like the cold air system, rims, tires was another few grand. He has more than enough cash for it. I could not even imagine doing it on a 3g. But I am a firm believer in all things are possible.

[RobT5580]

That seems a bit steep IMO for labor unless they made all the mounts but im sure that PRI and the other company make them for that model. If the shop knows what they are doing it shouldnt take that long to do and assuming they have they proper tools as well because i know when it comes to aftermarket stuff they are not always bolt on and a direct fit. I know a shop that drop an H22 in the accord for $2500 and thats all custom.

[k-roy]

The shop is a professional race shop. They do everything from street Civics to SCCA Porshes. The labor is 20-25 Hours at $80 an hour. The labor includes the suspension install. The mounts are from HAsport. The largest chunk of labor is cutting the front of the floor pan and firewall and rewelding to accommodate the rod type shifter that is similar to our cars, the stock Civic shifter is the cable type. My friend has done countless hours of reasearch and purchased the car specificly with the intent of doing this setup.

[deadlight]

I just have to wonder how this will affect your handling assuming all goes well, the H22A weighs quite a bit more than the A20 doesn't it? If it does you're going to have a very unbalanced weight distribution. I wish you nothing but luck, I've never even taken the time to read a thread about an H22A swap, I've always wanted to do it, but of course, I'm a poor college student so the resources I would need to customize the whole engine bay for the engine are just out of reach no matter how much I would wish they weren't. Once again, best of luck!

[k-roy]

The H22 does not really weigh much more than the A20, maybe less. The A20 has a cast iron block while the H22 is larger, but its an all aluminum baby.

[deadlight]

True, we do have a cast iron block, so it may even out, but I think the H22A is larger, and in more than just in displacement, the tranny could be larger too.

[RobT5580]

I dont know about that one the H22 seemed a bit heavier to me cause my JDM A20A was pretty light and only took 2 of us to get it off the truck and the H22 was very heavy with 3 people to even pull of to set on a dolly. And i could tell when it was on the hoist that is had more weight to it.

[rick_spiff]

I'm guessing the weight difference is at least 80 pounds, and probably more than that. The H22A has twin cams and beefy casting. Even though it's aluminum, it's one big, heavy bastard. Obviously, I'll have to change out the springs and tune the suspension from scratch to make it handle really well. Thankfully, I"m takling the swap now and the suspension setup later.

[deadlight]

If I were you I'd try to put some weight over your rear end, like your battery, I know that's a rwd trick, but anything to help out your handling too, which 50/50 balance is ideal for although I realize not even a stock 3G has that, it doesn't hurt to try and even it out, unless of course, you wanted to make this a straight line V-8 killer, then keep all the weight over those front wheels that you can, I think we both know you'll roast your tires down to the lugnuts.

[smufguy]

if the car is gonna be used for autocrossing then the weight distribution would be a big factor, but for a fun project or something u do just cause u want to, then its not gonna be a big deal

anyway, Seems like someone is gonna have some Revalved Blistines and firm ass springs or even better Revalved Konis baby :D

[Justin86]

Yea I wouldn't worry too much about weight distrubition and if you want you can move the battery to the trunk.

[deadlight]

He'll probably have to relocate it there to accomodate that engine, but yeah, I say things like that because I just think performance, not looks, not sound, performance...which is why it's so ironic that I drive such a slow car.

[Justin86]

Originally posted by deadlight
He'll probably have to relocate it there to accomodate that engine, but yeah, I say things like that because I just think performance, not looks, not sound, performance...which is why it's so ironic that I drive such a slow car.
Yea that is how I'am performance first. But for be the fact that I can make a car that normally runs low 17"s is now pushing for a flat 16 maybe when the track opens up again for next season I can work on getting into the 15's

[deadlight]

I really would like to make my Accord run, but it sat for 2 years and as a consequence has many mechanical problems, so it's not that fast. It's really eating me alive in the money department, I got a 726 dollar check today so I dumped that into my loan, and I'm going to take out another loan as soon as this one is paid off so I can get a nicer car, I love my 3g, but the amount of money being put into it isn't worth it anymore because of how rarely it runs. Although I must say it's a blast to drive when it is running right, straight line is nonexistent, but I looooooove the cornering, which is the only reason I was trying to think of ways to keep the car as balance as possible.

[rick_spiff]

I apologize for my absence, because I could have told everyone this earlier...

I already moved the battery into the trunk. Optima red top and 20' of welding cable was all it took (well, a battery box and some fasteners too).

Unfortunately, I didn't get out and flog it before the A20 started acting up, so I don't know if that made any difference.

[Justin86]

So what else needs to be done before you get this beast running.

[rick_spiff]

1. Properly mount shifter and in-cabin cabling. The 3G has plastic duct work under the carpeting for HVAC in the rear seats which is right in the way. Mild trimming and sealing needs to be done to install these pieces.

2. Install gastank from LX-i. Route fuel lines. May have to buy some hard pipe. I have the high pressure hose and know where to get the proper hose clamps. I already bought and mounted the new fuel filter.

3. Driver's mount. I just need to drill another hole, buy another bolt, and this one will go right in. Drawings will be put together later. The other mounts are finished as far as I'm concerned.

4. Soldier additional leads onto the main wiring harness, cut unnecessary wires from the 3G harness and cross-connect sensor wires that the H22A ECU needs. I've finished lengthening the main lead (soldering additional lengths onto 35 or so wires--quite exhausting).

5. Radiator/heater system hoses need to be installed. The H22A gear was good, so I bought some hose clamps and canabalized the hoses that I have.

6. Axles need to be built/bought/installed. I think I can use a 2G Teg axle on the passenger side and make a franken axle from the 3G passenger side and the H22A driver's side intermediate shaft. We'll see when I jack the car up and start measuring.

7. Install misc. items. The radiator isn't in. The front of the car is still laying on the ground. The seats aren't bolted in. The dash is missing, etc. etc. etc...

8. Exhaust needs to be hooked up. This one I will probably turn this job over to a shop. I don't have any idea how to weld these on. FYI, I'm using the muffler from my car, have a 2" line put in, and I'm using the cat from the H22A (hey, I bought a front clip).

9. Uh... Getting a speedometer that will actually work is high on my list.

That's all that comes to mind off the top of my head. As an aside, note that I decided to skip the AC installation to save time--it would have taken a lot of work to make the AC compressor fit as well, so I've removed the line in the engine compartment and sealed the stuf that's behind the firewall.

Until next time! ~

[4sillypwr]

that friggen sweet man! could you possibly rewire and use the h22 cluster? you might have to fab a bit to get it in there. The h22 uses a elec vss right? its might be possible to swap f series vss cable holder onto the h22 tranny. on all the dseries trannies you can swap out the elec for the cable. the f series is very similer to the h22 so it might work. if worse comes to worse you could always put a fseries tranny on it.

[Justin86]

So you are still just getting started.

[Justin86]

So you are still just getting started.

[rick_spiff]

It's been painfully slow, but I'm more towards the end than the beginning.

The VSS in the H22A is fully electric, and I didn't like the cluster from the Prelude dash. Probably just buy either a later model Accord speedo or an aftermarket (aftermarket would be easier, all things considered).

[Justin86]

Well get a speedo that goes higher then 130mph :lol: Actually the stock 3g speedo pegs at about 165mph but I don't know anybody that has done it. I'm getting closer everytime. :)

[smufguy]

Originally posted by rick_spiff
It's been painfully slow, but I'm more towards the end than the beginning.

The VSS in the H22A is fully electric, and I didn't like the cluster from the Prelude dash. Probably just buy either a later model Accord speedo or an aftermarket (aftermarket would be easier, all things considered).

I would say go with afttermarket, Get aftermarket speedo and everytying u need, It would be much nicer as a add on to all ur hardwork.

[AznImports602]

can't wait to see ur finished project.

[rick_spiff]

NEITHER CAN I!!!

(moan, whine)

Today I tore apart the 3G wiring. This weekend I'll be building the clutch bracket and finishing the driver's engine mount.

Mmmm... getting there.

[Justin86]

Don't you have to add about 4in to the Lude wiring inorder to use it in the car or are you going totaly custom with the wiring.

[rick_spiff]

Add about 18 inches, plus a whole bunch of stuff for the various connections in the passenger compartment.

Then I also get to take out the 3G wiring that's for the old computer since it is a waste of wieght and space...

I'll write up some general guidelines, but I can't hardly make a template as the wiring changes from year to year in the Prelude.

[Justin86]

Well have fun with it. :)

[smufguy]

seems like this project is gonna take forever to finish up huh?

[85 Luder]

Rick, Any new luck with axles? The suspense is driving me crazy. I am planing to swap an F22 into my 85 Prelude. And the axles is the big problem for me. Any suggestions???

[Justin86]

The axles will have to be custom made. Pretty much they take a accord CV joint for the hub, then a CV joint off the swap engine so it will work with the tranny, then the shaft part of it made to the correct lenght. And there you have a custom axle the easy explained version. :)

[rick_spiff]

It's sitting. I just changed jobs and things have been messy around here. I have to make a lower under piece.

The new wiring is in good shape.

The axles are still a bit of a mystery. I _think_ that 2G teg or maybe 2G Civic axles will fix me up on the right side, but the left hasn't been measured yet. Everything else is fine.

And the hood closes!

Anyway, I'm taking care of my other cars, and once a few of them are sold off, I can get this thing closer to driving me to work (and scaring people).

~ Until then!

[smufguy]

this is one of the reasons people dont do this swap. Dont take it the wrong way and think I'm spiting on your work. Its cause its takes way too much time, way too much money, way too much custom fabrications. and considering all this into the equation, the cost benifit ratio just shoots sky high on the cost side. But once u pull it off, you know you got a special place, but i guess its just extra extra hardwork that needs to be done to get this project on the ground. :cool:

[Jims 86LXI HB]

Originally posted by rick_spiff
It's sitting. I just changed jobs and things have been messy around here. I have to make a lower under piece.

The new wiring is in good shape.

The axles are still a bit of a mystery. I _think_ that 2G teg or maybe 2G Civic axles will fix me up on the right side, but the left hasn't been measured yet. Everything else is fine.

And the hood closes!

Anyway, I'm taking care of my other cars, and once a few of them are sold off, I can get this thing closer to driving me to work (and scaring people).

~ Until then!

H22 twisting on 2g teg or 3g civic axles:huh: What's the difference in diameter between them and the prelude axles it's supposed to run with. If I was really studied up on civic H22 swaps, I might not even be concerned;)

[k-roy]

My friend with a H22 swap in his civic has Integra Axles, and a 90 Accord halfshaft. It seems to hold up well.

[Justin86]

Well so far so good! :)

[momo8517]

dude...you are awesome...thats all i got.

now excuse me while i scrape my jaw off the floor and go back to drooling over the h22a i want to put in my 4g...that'll be a lot easier than a h22a in a 3g.

[85lude]

anymore updates rick? how far is it along now? let us know.

[rick_spiff]

The resurrection of a dead thread?

Sort of. I've got to double-check the engine position. God willing, I won't have to build new ones...

Other than that and looking for a new gas tank, things are going well, no bugs in the wiring system so far.

[85 Luder]

to rick_spiff,

I have a working drawing that you might be interested in. It is a design that i thought of to solve the problem of the clutch. i am thinking of putting an F22 into my 85 Prelude which would be roughly the same install as what you have accomplished. My only real concern has been gauges and axles. I would like to see better images of your custom mounts. Please feel free to contact me about my clutch fix.

[Elijah]

Wow I thought u got banned rick.I might be wrong but thats what was going around.Either way glad ur back.Get this thing over with so we can see some time slips.
Props to all the hard work!!

[rick_spiff]

I'm working 20 hours of overtime this week.

And next week.

And I'm sick.

Is this putting a cramp in my schedule to build the new front crossmember?

Yes.

Are there any updates worth reading?

Sort of. I may be able to get my hands on some Prelude VTEC rotors (same car the H22A came out of). I have a spare set of 3G knuckles with toasted ball joints. Perhaps, just perhaps, I can fit the calipers and rotors from the VTEC onto the 3G knuckle. (insert evil chuckle here) Only time will tell.

Thanks for all the support guys. I will be back in a few weeks and explain where I'm at.

[Justin86]

ha ha ha sounds like a fun experiment. :)

[rick_spiff]

to rick_spiff,

I have a working drawing that you might be interested in. It is a design that i thought of to solve the problem of the clutch. i am thinking of putting an F22 into my 85 Prelude which would be roughly the same install as what you have accomplished. My only real concern has been gauges and axles. I would like to see better images of your custom mounts. Please feel free to contact me about my clutch fix.

Sounds interesting. I'm still working my hydro clutch elimination project (never trusted those things), so no drawings to show for it yet. I'll work up something in the next few weeks.

Axles... 3G accords and older Tegs/civics use 32mm axle nuts and small axle splines. Newer Hondas use 34mm axle nuts and larger splines. All of the Honda axles from 2G on up seem to use the same size splines at the transmission. For certain, I know that the CV joints of the H22A axles I have and my 3G axles are interchangable. I assume most other Honda axles can be exchanged in the same manner (frankenaxles, yay!).

Now, I mounted the H22A so that the axles sit ahead of the tires about 2". This is the stock location of the A20 engine/transmission. When I finally squeezed the engine into the engine bay, the 3G passenger side axle was suddenly 7/8" too long. So... I need to find something of the proper length for that side. I haven't finished measuring the other side, but will be kinda hard since the 3G used a once-piece axle and the Prelude VTEC used an intermediate shaft. To my knowledge, so did the H23 and F22...

As for the engine mounts, here's the deal:

Rear mount: Can't take a better picture, but I can provide measurements/drawings.

Front mount: Done mostly by trial-and-error. I can take measurements off of the current mount, and take additional pictures if you think they'd help. I can also pull measurements from what it looks like right now.

The transmission mount I can measure, remove, photograph, and blueprint. It will be modified to stiffen it up slightly, so I will wait until I finish working on it and show you the finished product.

Driver's mount: Not fully designed yet. I have to remove the transmission mount and set the engine level before I pull measurements.

As for gagues, the tach can remain stock. I don't know how temperature gauges will match up... so I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Personally, I'd prefer to have a good aftermarket gauge that shows the actual engine temperature rather than just incidate COLD... WARM... HOT... KABOOM!

Then there's the speedo. You have two options: Create an adapter mount and put your mechanical sensor into the H22A tranny, or buy an aftermarket speedo and splice it into the stock sensor line. That's what I'm going to do since I've already mounted the engine (d'oh!).

All right, enough spewing, I'm going to finish the oil filter hanger mount.

props...