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View Full Version : An in Depth How to remove ac?



88LX-iSedan
08-24-2003, 09:02 AM
I'm not that big with engines and such, So i was wondering if there is a pic with all the stuff labeled that needs to be removed to get the ac out. ..I'm not wanting to remove it for some big gain or anything cause i know it's nothing significant, only to get the junk outta there sence it doesnt work. (Plus the condensor is bent inward from a previous wreck so the Radiator doesnt sit like it should) ..As long as i know what and where it is, I'll have no prob getting everything out.

zero.counter
08-24-2003, 03:13 PM
Well, after you have had it professionally evacuated (assuming that it has anything after being bent), you can remove the compressor, receiver/drier, and condensor. Not in any particular order that is. The condensor can be accessed from underneath the vehicle, but easier from above by removing the hood latch, mounting bolts and lifting out.

Compressor, disconnect the wire harness, drivebelt, refrige lines, and unbolt. If I remember correctly, you might need to remove the power steering pump for clearance to be smoother.

The receiver/drier just use a flare wrench and unbolt the lines.

Its a little time consuming, but aleviates some unneeded pull when removing the drivebelt from the engine.

POS carb
08-24-2003, 08:43 PM
I can't imagine how you get the condensor out from the bottom, but anyways it is pretty simple:

1. work now, play later... play now pay later. Take off your radiator and condensor entirely, it will make the job 100 times easier and less chance of shit being damaged while you try pulling up the compressor from the engine bay. All you do is take off the 4 corner bolts that hold them down (large metal plate your hood latch bolts to) and then of course the 2 hood latch bolts, then you can disconnect the 2 lines going to the condensor, #1 with a 12mm socket and #2 at the bottom through the bumper grille you can get that with an adjustable wrench. take off the 2 10mm mounting bolts holding the condensor up (1 on each side by the lights) and you slide it up. The radiator requires unplugging the fans, upper and lower cooling hoses, and the 2 tranny lines if you have an automatic. Once that's done the radiator slides up also.
now you can see your compressor, remove the 2 lines (after system is empty of course) from the compressor (12mm bolts) and start loosening belt tension and then the 3 or 4 (Depends on model) 14mm bolts that hold the compressor to the bracket. Unplug the clutch wire too. You can now remove this beast, and since you're at it go ahead and remove the 5 lb bracket (6 14mm bolts). With the condensor and compressor out all that's really left is the 0.5 lb reciever/dryer (small canister under the cruisecontrol unit, driver's side) and the remaining lines (low and high pressure, low is the thick black one, high is the thinner copper ones that also probably got in your way while you were removing the radiator) probably another 1 lb at most plus the equipment inside the car under the dash.

POS carb
08-24-2003, 08:49 PM
oh yea and after rebuilding a clutch I can assure you there is almost 0 load on the engine when the system is off, the pulley spins freely on a bearing

zero.counter
08-24-2003, 09:05 PM
Originally posted by POS carb
I can't imagine how you get the condensor out from the bottom, but anyways it is pretty simple:

1. work now, play later... play now pay later. Take off your radiator and condensor entirely, it will make the job 100 times easier and less chance of shit being damaged while you try pulling up the compressor from the engine bay. All you do is take off the 4 corner bolts that hold them down (large metal plate your hood latch bolts to) and then of course the 2 hood latch bolts, then you can disconnect the 2 lines going to the condensor, #1 with a 12mm socket and #2 at the bottom through the bumper grille you can get that with an adjustable wrench. take off the 2 10mm mounting bolts holding the condensor up (1 on each side by the lights) and you slide it up. The radiator requires unplugging the fans, upper and lower cooling hoses, and the 2 tranny lines if you have an automatic. Once that's done the radiator slides up also.
now you can see your compressor, remove the 2 lines (after system is empty of course) from the compressor (12mm bolts) and start loosening belt tension and then the 3 or 4 (Depends on model) 14mm bolts that hold the compressor to the bracket. Unplug the clutch wire too. You can now remove this beast, and since you're at it go ahead and remove the 5 lb bracket (6 14mm bolts). With the condensor and compressor out all that's really left is the 0.5 lb reciever/dryer (small canister under the cruisecontrol unit, driver's side) and the remaining lines (low and high pressure, low is the thick black one, high is the thinner copper ones that also probably got in your way while you were removing the radiator) probably another 1 lb at most plus the equipment inside the car under the dash.
Wow, thats pretty weird considering I had no trouble at all performing my prescribed method. Maybe its just you.

As far as bringing it out from the bottom, I neglected to add while the car may be jacked up (I was doing other things working under the car and decided to see if it was possible and ya know what, after removing the water shroud from the bottom and the bolts and lines it worked, fell right through. (The car was completely cannibalized on the front end). But hey, I guess I am the stupid ass (even though my method worked and was quick) and should bow down to such genius as yours (yeah right). I have only removed two A/C units from these aged accords. The funniest thing happened after removing both times, the car ran like a champ and with out the whole system in place...oh well.

As far as elaborating on what I said, and making yourself look good, hey...if it works. So be it. I was attempting to help by giving him an intro.

Peace Out! :lol

88LX-iSedan
08-24-2003, 09:41 PM
Thanks, To both of ya. One ? though, I'm pretty sure if i remove the radiator i'd have to drain it.. But, Once i put it back in and add coolant would i have to bleed it?

88LX-iSedan
08-25-2003, 09:08 AM
Well so far i've removed Condensor, All hoses, Fan and reciever/dryer.. All thats left is Compressor and Evaporator. Damn, This has been easier than i thought.. All of it is straight forward.. Didnt have to remove the radiator either.. So, That was a relief.

88LX-iSedan
08-25-2003, 02:35 PM
Well, I'm finished with everything besides taking the Evaporator out.. Started to get hot as Fack, So i decided to call it quits. But, I did take it for a spin and the car actually runs a bit cooler now as well as gained some speed, There is a straight shot before i turn into the driveway (Mind you its up-hill) usually it would top out at 82 now it actually made it to 90. (Never thought that would happen) ..I notice the front end comes off the ground when going over hills more frequently now! I went a bit overboard and took the horn on both sides of the car off and the Windshield washer fluid tank.. removed lines as well ( Neither worked.. i broke the wires to the horn when i was replacing the combo switch and broke the line for windshield washer when i replaced the hood :lol ) ..Hey thanks again, Gotta love all the room thats in there now.. the radiator fits in there right too!!

89cordlx
08-26-2003, 11:50 AM
hehe zero mentioned the water shroud.... that was that big peice of plastic I took of the bottom of the car I assume..... all it did was drag on the ground