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NXRacer
09-02-2003, 04:13 PM
Ok, i KNOW there are a few threads regarding 'what do i need to turbo my car' but i want to get them all consilidated to one concise thread that lists ONLY what is necessary for a motor to handle more then 6-12 lbs (which a stock motor can handle). I'm looking to build up a motor in the VERY NEAR future and a few other members are looking to build in the coming year.

Now i assume that seans turbo kit will be used. This would include turbo, header, downpipe. What i'm looking for is pistons, rings, rods, rod bearings, crank (if necessary), valve springs, valves, injectors, fuel pump, FPR, spark plugs, plug wires, Ignition controler, boost regulator (not home made) blow off valve, FMIC and others. I'd like to get a variety of choices so we have some choice as to price and availability. I'm not looking for custom parts if possible. I dont wanna have to pay $400 for a set of custom pistons if at all possible. Also, i'm looking for whats really necessary. Gauges and other visual goodies are not required to have a turbo charged car so they're lower on my list of things to get.

PLEASE LIST PARTS AND/OR PART NUMBERS ONLY. Keep the whoring down to a minimum please. I'm looking for this to end up as a technical type thread if possible.

All prices i list are from Horsepower Freaks (http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com)

part manufacturers and part #'s if possible.
1) Seans ECM - $675
2) Turbo - $however cheap you can find one on ebay or other place
3) Turbo manifold - Seans (http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=26922&page=1&pp=20), or JGS (http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/)
4) Pistons - stock/oem good for up to 12psi, or Diamond Pistons (http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25166)
5) Rings - OEM or with diamond piston package
6) Rods - OEM or Eagle Rods (http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25182)
7) Rod bearingsn - OEM
8) Crank - stock/oem
9) Springs - see #7
10) head package - $1400 - More info here (http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25186) (not for daily drivers)
11) Injectors - (Honda V6 injectors?)
12) Fuel pump (chevy pump that sean suggests using)
13) FPR AEM 25-300B (86-89) LXi/SEi $163.06)
Cosmo Racing (FPUNV 86-89 $90.50)
14)Plug wires- MSD Heli Coil MSD 3104 4 cyl multi-angle plug/socket $37.13
15) Ignition system (MSD offers a variety for boost applications) - or Seans Kit
16) BOV - TurboXS (TURX BOV-H) $140
Greddy (GRED 11501650) $183
HKS (HKS 1421-SA001) $195
17) FMIC - There is a huge variety of different ones available for all kinds of prices. Anybody have a preferance? I think personally i'll go FMIC as opposed to water injection (which i dont even understand).
18)h-2 LSD $225 from AZracemachine

Other suggestions welcome.

Magny
09-02-2003, 05:08 PM
hmmm, i can help ya here for the rest of them. let me go diggin these up, i got lots of sites for the best things possible.

bobafett
09-03-2003, 03:43 PM
ok, well i dont have parts numbers on much of this, but hopefully i can be of some assistance here:

downpipe: sean
turbo manifold: sean
charge pipes: sean
mandrel bent exhaust: sean

that takes care of most of the tricky stuff, and there isnt really a part number, but since he is now selling it all, and he is the only one, its a nice start. :D

skinny little FMIC http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33742&item=2430569521 $299

cosmo racing adjustable FPR : $100ish on ebay

looks like it will cost APPX $500 for JE pistons with rings. :) (would need to be custom made)
eagle rods, appx $400 for a set. (would need to be custom made)

h-2 LSD $225 :) from AZracemachine

Low Tek
09-03-2003, 07:24 PM
1) Pistons
2) Rings
3) Rods
4) Rod bearings
*Race Engineering* $1100 - rods are LS integra rods (thicker), and the pistons low compression, deep dish turbo pistons, rings are JE


6) Springs?
7) Valves?

*springs are from KMS and the retainers are titanium $500 for the set*

*valves, came from local parts store -think it was like autozone's performance warehouse $50*

the rest is commin from seans ecm deal $650


hope this helps

AccordEpicenter
09-03-2003, 08:51 PM
why not use shotpeened stock rods? Theyll hold up just fine.

Low Tek
09-04-2003, 12:40 AM
I have a new higher RPM of 8000 instead of stock, and I am runnin a 20psi boost

3G Jester
09-04-2003, 02:54 AM
i have the accord v6. ill look in the manual in there and see if there is any sort of information on injectors

2old_honda
09-04-2003, 08:26 AM
Originally posted by AccordEpicenter
why not use shotpeened stock rods? Theyll hold up just fine.

Do you know how much boost they would handle? I am debating on doing that or having custom rods made. How much does shotpeening cost? Or does anyone know if rods from another car will fit the a20?

Low Tek
09-04-2003, 10:32 AM
Originally posted by Low Tek
1) Pistons
2) Rings
3) Rods
4) Rod bearings
*Race Engineering* $1100 - rods are LS integra rods (thicker), and the pistons low compression, deep dish turbo pistons, rings are JE


:eek: mine will hold 20+ boost

NXRacer
09-04-2003, 10:56 AM
So b18 rods will work on our motors? I wish we could get deffinate measurements and dimensions so we could find some rods, pistons/rings that would fit so we dont have to have custom ones made that cost an arm and a leg.

Low Tek
09-04-2003, 12:30 PM
the integra rods are a direct fit, but the pin set is different, but if you are doin custom pistons anyway, they can set the pin anywhere.

as far as anything fitting from another motor, good luck, cause we have the odd ball bore size.. but if you goto the place I went they have the speca already (seeming I have been through them)

hope it helps some, kinda expensive.. but what do you expect, it is not acura, or civic.. :rant:

BootMachine
09-04-2003, 01:04 PM
If you are running high boost I would think about sleeving the block!

Or will the cast iron hold up?

Valves??? WHY??? Retainers ok but VALVES?

They will just make the air flow better anyway...your going turbo so there is no point!

You should not need to buy larger injectors for the engine....they will be hard to control under boost...because the boost level changes with throttle position!

Use the stock injectors or a slight upgrade and tune them with a V-AFC or S-AFC. THEN...run two HUGE injectors to the charge pipe right before the butteryfly valve and just have these come on under boost. Tune with a pulse width computer and exhaust temp sensor!

AccordEpicenter
09-04-2003, 02:50 PM
our cast iron blocks will take anything you throw at them... no sleeving needed. Upraded valves are for peace of mind, the added heat resistance is one less thing to go wrong. If you run enough boost youre gonna need bigger injectors somwhere along the line. I think justin ran stock rods to like 19psi... maybe sean too.

A20A1
09-04-2003, 04:46 PM
S2000 rods? I dunno, but it's 2 . 0. :D

2old_honda
09-04-2003, 05:14 PM
Originally posted by Low Tek
the integra rods are a direct fit, but the pin set is different, but if you are doin custom pistons anyway, they can set the pin anywhere.



very interesting. what about the pin is different?

2old_honda
09-04-2003, 05:27 PM
anyone know how long the stock a20 rods are?

Low Tek
09-04-2003, 06:49 PM
the pin height (sp) is shorter

Sean
09-04-2003, 08:03 PM
stock a20a rods are a few thou longer then a b18 rod. all this crazy ness about injectors. just do what i do. tell my ecm what size they are and let it do the work. they are not hard to control under boost. typically idle will be the hell out of you. althought the driver box in the ecm kits will run 1400cc injectors at a 800rpm idle just fine.im currently running 400cc injectors and i need ot step into something bigger soon.

as for rods the stock ones are pretty stout. they will take 18-20psi of boost without breaking ( thats the most amount of boost anybodys run for and extened period of time. ) so id think unless you were shining for 11's or something youd be just fine with stock stuff.

the block has 300 tho thick cylinder walls. iver repeatadldy int eh past told people not to bore more then 030 becuase ive seen one or 2 a20a crack between the cylinder isn a very few super high rpm applications when bored to 60 70 80 over. as for the crank its a stout peice have it shout peened nitrided balance and maganafluzed before any machine work. chances are the stock used crank will only need minor polishing for resue.

the bearings i hgihly sugest sarting with spares and plaing the match a sheel to clearance games. id also sugest deburing the i pasages in the block. its easy to do and kep shit out of the rods.

good pistons call wiseco there $90 a peice so that $360 a set including wrist pins. while your at it make sure to get 2mm over the stock 19mm wristpin.

headgasket ? i havent blown mine to date but im looking to coper for my new motor.

im also looking to ARP for some rod bolts for my connecting rods. the stock valvetrian is fine unless you plan to rev over 7000rpm.

consider studs a priority and im already on the ball with a stud kit being delivered for my review monday. if i like it then ill order a few more and keep them on hand for you guys. figure cylinder head and main bearing studs.

im looking into a high volume oil pump for the future of the deal but thts BIG $$$ so just reuse a good stock one or swing by teh dealer and pick up a new one for like $80 or so.

aside from all that thats the most work that should need to be done for it to take some pretty serious boost. also if anybody lives near cometic ( the head gasket people) drop a stock a20a gasket by and see if they will make one up !! thanx !

2old_honda
09-04-2003, 08:52 PM
Sean, thanks a lot for the info. Let me ask you a question. A few months ago I bought a set of JE 10:1 pistons from a member here. This was when I was just going to stick with N/A. Well now that I know I will be going turbo I am wondering if I should use these pistons? Do you think shotpeened rods with the JE 10:1 pistons would be ok? I want to run a decent amount of boost so I want to do everything right the first time. Also' put me down for a set of ARP bolts/studs I will be needing them. thanks :)

bobafett
09-05-2003, 03:09 AM
10:1 seems like a lot for a 3g, but think of b series with stock internals. jeez they are like 10.5:1 or higher. :P be very carefull about engine management if u use those. :)

NXRacer
09-05-2003, 10:11 AM
DUDE sean. when you get time can you re-write/edit your post in english please? :D thanks

Low Tek
09-05-2003, 11:30 AM
:eek:
:wtf:


http://www.ebaumsworld.com/forumfun/misc4.jpg

2old_honda
09-05-2003, 12:42 PM
haha. hey I could read/understand it. well sorta :lol

Sean
09-05-2003, 08:57 PM
engine management for me is easy is just pull spark 10:1 will make the motor alot snappier and more fun to drive.

2old_honda
09-05-2003, 09:43 PM
Originally posted by Sean
engine management for me is easy is just pull spark 10:1 will make the motor alot snappier and more fun to drive.

so you think the higher compresion will be ok? I really dont want to be shooting rods out the block or anything :lol

guaynabo89
10-02-2003, 07:24 PM
I know I'm a little late in this thread but you can get rods from crower. They are beefier than stock rods and come with a good set of rodbolts.

HEre is all the info you'll need.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid82/p0411ad36bbe82448b139c07e364a83bc/faed5d6e.jpg

AccordEpicenter
10-03-2003, 09:39 AM
yikes how much do they cost?

Low Tek
10-03-2003, 11:59 AM
it's crower, so it can't be cheap... lol thinkin like $600-$700

guaynabo89
10-06-2003, 05:10 AM
Originally posted by Low Tek
it's crower, so it can't be cheap... lol thinkin like $600-$700

That is correct.


Thats how much all billet rods go for though, so if you want good parts you're going to have to pay.

Low Tek
10-06-2003, 11:09 AM
yep.. I have payed $1165 for my piston and rods set up... and I have turbo pistons.. 8.0-1

NXRacer
10-16-2003, 12:13 PM
bump. list updated.

chaos
11-25-2003, 07:58 PM
Arrrgh i can't even sell my LX-i for that much. Unless any of you want it. Has a bondo'd quarter panel that should probably be replaced and a few other more minor things...

NXRacer
12-11-2003, 12:07 PM
whats the biggest turbo that should be used with the a20? I know sean is using the small chrysler turbo, but my buddy has a t04 that i could get from him. Could the a20 handle that big of a turbo or would there be WAY too much turbo lag? I know that there will be more then with the chrysler, but is that just way to big to be used or could it be used?

RobT5580
12-11-2003, 01:34 PM
Im not sure on what you want to run for boost or if your gonna build your block. But if your gonna go all the way T3's are common to use. Im told by other Turbo Honda owners that the garrett T3 Super 60 is a nice setup for my B20A.

But unless you were to get a kit from Sean or something like that i think it would be worth going all the way because its very expensive to get custom stuff done and a manifold alone can be expensive. Also im on www.homemadeturbo.com a lot and i see some very hacked up set ups that are prone to have problems but are very low budget. I personally want power and keep it reliable so im doing it the expensive way but more or less the correct way. But on the other end low boost set ups are as strainful so it can retain the reliability people want.

NXRacer
12-11-2003, 02:03 PM
im gonna be using seans setup on my a20. if i did go with the t04 i'd have a flange put on his manifold for the t04. my main concern is turbo lag and how much a t04 will have and if it would be pointless to use that size.

Justin86
12-11-2003, 02:21 PM
Well for the big dogs out the new thing the T3/T4 hybrid. It can put out more PSI and more power then you know what to do with. :D I know one person is working on one and I'm to run one when my $$$ comes. :)

NXRacer
12-11-2003, 02:38 PM
the best thing about t3/t4 is that you have the small exhaust turbine which allows the turbo to spool quickly but you have the bigger outlet turbine which allows you to boost more...

Sean
12-11-2003, 04:07 PM
small turbine housing rob HP by restricting the exhuast side of the engine you loose HP. spool up can be controlled with timing fuel and wastgate tension. . the s60 and the 50trim dodge turbo are both far bigger then a 14b tdo4e mitsu turbo. striagth up

NXRacer
12-11-2003, 04:46 PM
my ONLY question is if i were to get a cheap/free t04, can i use it and get decent (200whp range) power from it without a HUGE turbo lag?

im not really looking for the best possible option, i'm trying to decide if i should get the t04 thats available to me right now.

Sean
12-11-2003, 06:11 PM
dude my current dodge turbo ( read cheap as nuts ) spools so fast that i cant figure out when it doesnt spool.

A20A1
12-11-2003, 06:36 PM
Check out these A-Series Turbo's http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27716

turfnnsurf
12-11-2003, 07:48 PM
Don't worry about turbo lag, once you feel the boost hit you'll forget what lag is... Also because the stock A20 is about 9.3 to 1 compression you'll spool the To4 a little faster anyway. I say if the To4 is a cheap buy get it. In all honesty you are planning on running a turbo on a NA block. Without some mods to internals you WILL NOT be able to use the full boost of that turbo.. My guess is if you run more than 8-10psi say bye bye to stock pistons and rings. 200whp is about 245 crank hp, I think that number is a pipe dream for the stock A20 block. When your 3g was brand new it had only 110 crank HP, to get to 245 hp would be a 130% increase. Show me a turbo setup from anywhere, running under 12psi that will net you a 130% increas in HP...
I hate to sound like a doubter, and I give you high marks for putting the effort into your car, just try to be more realistic with expectations of the A20.. Take a look a JohnnyO he has the fastest 3g on the board. However his car is not what i would call a daily driver, I saw it on Nov. 2nd. He worked his ass off on that car to get it to run 10.98 but look what he is doing for next year, hunting down another motor to build...
If you want a fast daily driven sleeper, your 88 Lxi coupe can be just that with a turbo setup and about 8psi.. You'll scare any kid in a Civic with a fart can hanging under the back bumper..

Sean
12-11-2003, 08:21 PM
you have no idea how much power you can make on stock internals. ive made 225 WHP on stock internals. its doable. but its a bit risky.

K-MOD
12-12-2003, 06:21 AM
I haven't dynoed mine yet, but judging by my MPH I should be making like 220WHP. 2530LBS, 103MPH in 1/4 mile. Do the math. Stock bottom end, it's all about the tuning. My friends have stock bottom end GSR motors putting out 455 & 470WHP. It's all about the tuning and we've proven it.

Sean
12-12-2003, 09:03 AM
Ok for turbo's

Stay away from the mitsu's not much avaiable for them. the 14B sucks ( read small as a cats nut's).

Ok garrets are pretty cheap. the rason i picked the 50 trim dodge turbo was packaging. its in a very effieent package and fits really really well in the front of the car.

Now the good news. the dodge turbos can be upgrdaded to HP ratings in excess of 400hp. due you really need that much power ?

GO pick up a 50 trim off ebay for like $100 pray its in good shape. even with a rebuild it wouldnt cost much. the CRX guy are always looking for te toe4 anyways so sell it over at www.homemadeturbo.com

Im gona try to stock up some 50 trim dodge garrets. depends on $$$. Ill also be stocking a few turbos in various other trims. However dont come to me looking for a t3/t4 for your accord unless you tel me your gonna make in excess of 400hp. just no need.

the 42/48 good trim for the accord. i presoanlly would prefer a 42/63 still make about 18 psi of boost. but breathe alot easier

NXRacer
12-12-2003, 09:07 AM
i know the t4 is too big, but i can get it for really cheap and its almost brand new so its in perfect condition. thats the only reason i was thinking about getting it.

Sean
12-12-2003, 09:41 AM
give me the specs on this turbo. any to4 garret is gona be to big. is this a mitsubishi toe4 or a garret. still fialing to understand exactly what size the turbo is. and what type of turbo it is.

NXRacer
12-12-2003, 09:59 AM
i'll try to get model numbers or something. they guy who has it doesnt know too much about it so he couldnt get a lot of info. I'll take some pictures of it or something for ya.

NXRacer
12-12-2003, 11:20 AM
well it was a garrett, but apparently its been sold or something so that plan is scratched. Exactly what year/model of chrystler car should i look for a turbo?

Sean
12-12-2003, 11:24 AM
any of the dodge turbo's should fit as long as there garret t3's. basically 85-92 any dodhge chrysler, plymouth 2.2 2.5 engine. dont get fooled by the mitsubishi that did come on the cars as well. the mitsu is pretty easy to spot. its rediculously small.

NXRacer
12-12-2003, 11:49 AM
ok

Justin86
12-12-2003, 12:33 PM
It depends on what you want to do. Like SEAN said with the T3/T4 it is for power freaks and that fits me just right. If you want a good daily driver and simple set up a smaller turbo and low PSI will will be good like the one SEAN is selling. :)

NXRacer
12-12-2003, 01:04 PM
i'm not looking for anything extreme. just something that will kill all the ricers in town and hold its own with the serious imports. I think the smaller chrysler will do that just fine.

Sean
12-12-2003, 01:13 PM
i cosider mid 13's at a stock wieght damn impressive power. and the upgrade to the dodge 50 trim makes in excess of 300hp easily.in fact you can get this same style tubro setup for 400+ hp. in a dodge specifc t3/t4 hybrid. the reason i like the dodge turbo is becuase the housing is easy to package. thats why i like it. plus the internal waste gate etc makes it bunchs cheap to build up. so seriously if you aint got plan to run faster then say bottom 12's the dodge turbos will serve you just fine.

NXRacer
12-12-2003, 01:26 PM
if i can get into the low 12's, i'll be happy. for a few weeks anyway......lol

Sean
12-12-2003, 01:50 PM
well the s60 dodge turbo is the turbo for the job for that.

blown89lxi
12-24-2003, 04:23 PM
i havent looked into turbo for the 3g yet but when i was looking for an eclipse, as well as helping my friends turbo civic a GREAT cheap BOV would be one off of a first gen dsm(eclipse, talon, laser). they may not look cool or have the cool sound but the are damn strong. As far as FMIC look for an old audi or volvo. you can also find many SMIC from eclipses if you need to save money.

K-MOD
12-28-2003, 07:07 AM
Per board Rules.You must either sell your wares in Market place or pay for advertising.

K-MOD
12-28-2003, 12:29 PM
Just answering the questions. You have prices listed from Horsepower Freaks, My prices are better so I listed my prices. I just want people w/ 3geez to be able to make power affordably. So what your saying is next time I should post up as someone else, and refer people to K-Modified Racing. That would be the same thing as the original post???? Correct? So why is there a problem If I teh owner do it and not an outsider? I've seen post from Openloop about their cams and camgear. Are you telling them the same thing.

Sean
12-28-2003, 12:41 PM
Well even ive gotten bitched at for listing prices so im moving everything off the board. Its also not right to snipe a thread dude. If you want i can get the Moderator for the Market plac to make you a sticky thread so you can update and run specials etc. But there cracking down on thread advertising. Thing is if somebody wants to discuss the value or price of a part component thats fine. But getting into the thread and listng your prices is definatley getting into teritory that the admins dont want to tread into.

So even i will have to pull down over the next week alot of my thread other then ( look at the new parts etc)

Just something to keep in mind.

K-MOD
12-28-2003, 12:59 PM
Ok cool, I see how things work. I'll have to follow the rules, even If I don't agree them. Once again I'm just trying to make it so people can get performance parts at an affordable price, thats all. If I see a post about someone trying to do something to thier car I'll let them know that I can help them(low cost parts/labor). I thought that was one of the main purposes of this forum. The first step to in improving your car is actually getting the parts, and not everone has deep pockets. My business is designed for those who dont have alot of money but want to make power/go fast, so if I put up my prices its b/c I'm trying to help those type of people out. Good quality products at a reasonable price. If by doing that I have broken the rules. I'm Sorry.

Sean
12-28-2003, 02:25 PM
Youll have to cut down the size of your signature as well. that thing is way over the limit. And yeah you shouldnt advertise in a thread you didnt create. As i siad. If somebody has a question about a price/ product etc then go ahead and answer it. Or make a post in the performance section title it accordingly with your prices service etc and ill sticky it. But you cant keep comming into threads and just blasting it with pricing etc. Not a kewl deal.

NXRacer
12-28-2003, 09:55 PM
i didnt really post up this thread to get myself business, i was basically doing it so i could give people an idea of what they're gonna be spending for certain parts. if the mods dont like the prices listed, i can take em off and maybe post up a couple links in the thread as to where some places are that they can get cheap(er) parts

Sean
12-29-2003, 03:57 PM
NXracer there nothing wron with what you did. Your not first second of thrid party advertising. Your simply creating a thread where board memebers can find the resources they need.

Justin86
01-01-2004, 02:36 PM
so lets get back on topic. So now SEAN has got a great clutch/flywheel combo to handle the power. Now to manage that power, SEAN's ECU, and the right gauges to make sure everything is going good. Oil PSI, A/F gauge, Temp, boost, volts, etc.

NXRacer
01-02-2004, 10:36 AM
i was thinking about listing gauges, but those are a universal 'mod' so it doesnt really apply to this. I made the list to show people whats available for our motors for high HP builds.

AccordEpicenter
01-02-2004, 06:08 PM
guys for a bov just get a 1g dsm bov, theyll hold leak free to 15psi in stock form and sound wonderful... and get the matching pipe with flange, you could get that for well under $50... no need to get like $150 turbo XS or HKS or any of that

Sherlock87LXI
01-27-2004, 03:01 PM
guys for a bov just get a 1g dsm bov

whats that?
Translation plz

NXRacer
01-27-2004, 04:03 PM
BOV = Blow Off Valve

1g DSM = 1st generation turbo eclipse/talon/laser or any other turbo car made by diamond star motors (a division of mitsubishi/chrysler)

Sherlock87LXI
01-27-2004, 05:25 PM
Oh ok. My roomie has one o dem on his shadow then.
k.

Volitech
08-16-2004, 05:09 PM
Alright here's the deal! I'm gonna have enough money to buy a turbo kit from sean and a turbo from the guy he recommended! I have alot of bolt-ons and a Gude cam! nothing major yet and I know I need to do alot more before I put on a turbo on! My roommate who has a Talon that's built to the teeth and boosted said I'm waisting my money if I boost the old engine! I relize it might kill it but I do have another engine that I'm building but it won't be done till late next summer at best. But the engine in the car now run great
and I really want to boost it! So should I do it or not? :dunno: Ohh and it's not my dayly driver it's more of a street racer than any thing!

shepherd79
08-16-2004, 05:50 PM
if you are going to do it, do it right. build the motor that can hold up to high boost. this way it will take it what ever boost you give it under proper fuel/ignition management.

Hash_man_Se_i
08-16-2004, 06:17 PM
ya, exactly... you are just asking for trouble if your engine isnt built, especially with no fuel managemant, and upgraded ignition, you won't last long. But IMO if you really want to do it right, get custom manifold and stuff made, and use an intercooler.

Elijah
08-16-2004, 07:09 PM
I say under the circumstance.Go ahead why not.If it's not a daily driver and you have another motor.My car has well over 300,000km.And I have been fine with only 7psi.But I do have a upgraded fuel system and fuel manigmant.And msd sci and coil and wires and colder plugs.

tatmark1
08-16-2004, 08:03 PM
if your already spending money on building a motor you would be smart to build it for turbo and spend the money on that instead of dumping the loot into a motor your going to pull out anyway

Robs89LXi
08-17-2004, 02:30 PM
I agree with Elijah. If this is all bolt on, and not your daily driver, slap it on and run it 'till it dies. If it does, then you've lost nothing and can transfer your parts over to the new engine when it's ready. You might learn a lot experimenting with this old one too, so you will be more prepared for the new engine. I say go for it.

89T
02-11-2012, 07:46 PM
I am bumping every old turbo thread. Is it running or gone.

fmn716
02-12-2012, 11:27 AM
agreed from which model is this turbo from the dodge ?