Reinstalling A/C for the summertime... do I use R12?

[POS carb]

After 3 years of downtime due initially to a self-destructed compressor and later a front end 25 mph crash that missed the bumper I took a good look and inquired about the previous A/C services done to the 3gee and it turns out the A/C was serviced right before a 3k mile trip and the compressor blew in north Florida (500 miles too far to return) so the belt was cut and it's been like that ever since. It lost the fluid after I blew up the condensor in a crash and later removing the old compressor and hoses. This leads me to believe the system can still hold a charge, assuming the seals don't desintegrate from sitting still :(

I bought a used compressor and the necessary hoses and I'm installing it now. I never saw a retrofit sticker on the car so I guess it requires I get it charged with R12. Now, what is a good plan of action? Should I take it to a shop and have them do a leak test or should I get one of those dye kits or what? I know someone who probably has access to R12, I'll have to ask him if he can get some. Anything I should look out for while it's all taken apart? My extent of A/C knowledge is what hose goes where, what a condensor, compressor, and evaporator does, and how to charge them. Also which line is the high pressure line, the thick rubbr-coated one, right? Or the thin copper one?

[offthahook]

Well, here's what I'd do. Take it to a small shop that only does AC stuff; tell em wutup. They should put a vacuum on it for about 6 hours and suck all the old refrig. out. OC, they should do an electronic leak test (not that dye crap where you wait like a day and they try to isolate the leak(s)). The electronic test will pinpoint any leaks and it's quick and cheap. Replace any parts and the dryer/receiver. I don't know how long mines was open, but the guy put in a new copper condensor and converted it to FR12. He said Honda parts are NOT as good as AM AC parts. Plus, Honda parts are hella $$$$. That's what I did and I'm straight!!

[Hondastar]

First of all you dont have to have it hooked up to a vaccume for 6 hours it takes like 20 minutes. And Freon cost so much, there is a new product called Freeze 12 a supplement for Freon or R12. If you can find a store that carries it, or go online and maybe you can order it. Any ways that is my opinion.

[accordlx]

Does anyone know if you need a license for this Freeze 12 stuff? I found out it's like $9 a can and has almost the cooling power of R12. Im very interested in this product.

[Lester Lugnut]

I replied to the Freeze-12 question in another thread today. Will go through it again now.

First off, Freeze-12 is 80% R134A and 20% R142B. It costs about $12 a can and that's buying it in a 12 can case.

It's sold by a dist. on the west coast. Don't remember the name. You can likely find them on the WEB.

I had to fax my drivers license and 609 certification to the Freeze-12 distributor.

I've yet to use it, mainly because I later found out it's mostly R134A which alot of people can buy without certification for 1/2 of what Freeze-12 costs.

By the way, Freeze-12 requires a special tap that costs an additional $25.

Forget Freeze-12. It's just another R-12 wanna-bee.

[offthahook]

Originally posted by Hondastar
First of all you dont have to have it hooked up to a vaccume for 6 hours it takes like 20 minutes. And Freon cost so much, there is a new product called Freeze 12 a supplement for Freon or R12. If you can find a store that carries it, or go online and maybe you can order it. Any ways that is my opinion.

I dunno dude. The guy who did mine has done AC only for like 20 years and is very honest. He said that if the system has been open ANY amount of time, it takes hours to get ALL of the old residue out. Twenty minutes seems like an awful short time to me for being open all those years. I may be mistaken, but I thought he said he had to leave it on there that long to vacuum all the old crap out.

[BoredRec]

Ok, I haven't seen a reply that I like yet. So here's my response as if you came into my shop...

It's been sitting for 3 years without refrigerant oil going thru anything. All the o-rings are crap now! Age does that to rubber. (Sidebar...run your A/C at least once a month in the cold season. This is to help relubricate the system and not let the o-rings dry up and rot). If you got a used compressor from a junkyard make sure it matches your system. Honda used 2 compressors, a Kienin and a NP (NP is way better). If it is a Kienin make sure the pulley spins a full 360 degrees (they tend to break internally and not let the compressor turn over). Also make sure that the front seal isn't leaking (number one place for A/C to leak from). Look at the inside of the pulley. If it's wet, or has dirt built up around it (meaning it hasn't been used in a while, but leaked at one time) throw it away. Also make sure it has good suction by turning the pulley over by hand and placing your fingers over the holes. The compressor should try to create a vacuum and hold it (you can feel this). Now you said you got in a fender bender...did you replace the condensor? I'd suggest getting new high and low side hoses. The low side is the hose that goes between the radiator and the motor. You can still buy those seperately from Honda. If you want a new compressor you have to buy the kit which is like $8-900. R-12 is better than R-134a but a lot more expensive. If you can find it for cheap price, and you know you have no leaks I'd stick with the R-12. If you go R-134a then you'd probably hafta go with the kit from Honda, plus buy a retrofit kit (Honda sells that, too). The new kit is compatible with both R-12 and R-134a. We have some R-12 at the shop. I'm not sure if it's an R-12 knockoff, or if it's just the name but it's called ReFron 12.

Geez this is a long reply

I know I'm probably forgetting stuff, so sorry in advance if I didn't answer all your questions. But I will end this post with one more thing to keep in mind. You may want to replace the A/C Thermostat before you put in the freon. They like to block up, and not let the freon flow. The high side pressures go thru the roof and the low side pressures start pulling a vacuum. The thermostat is located inside the evaporator.

Hope this helped.

[dosh8er]

Originally posted by POS carb
Also which line is the high pressure line, the thick rubbr-coated one, right? Or the thin copper one?

Answer: The HIGH pressure line is the THIN COPPER line. (if you think about it, which would withstand higher pressure, a flimsy rubber hose, or a stiff, hard, copper hose?) The LOW pressure line is the THICK RUBBER line.

Important to know! ;)

[AC439]

Originally posted by BoredRec
But I will end this post with one more thing to keep in mind. You may want to replace the A/C Thermostat before you put in the freon. They like to block up, and not let the freon flow. The high side pressures go thru the roof and the low side pressures start pulling a vacuum. The thermostat is located inside the evaporator.



I think you mean the expansion valve....

[Sean]

ok eric parts to replace. reciver dryer if the system has been open for a while its gonna have moirture saturated the dessicant in the system by now rendering it ineffective.

as for cleaning the system use compressed air. solvents won;t clear out of the system. expect to spend some time on this one figure a good 1-2hrs of blasting with air is the best plan. if you use a solvent to clean yr system use a chlornated brake cleaner it will eveporate leaving the system easly..

replace all orings. drain the oil form yr compressor. replace with 134a compatiable oil should use 4oz's


now your gonna need a 4oz charge can of 134 oil for the remaining parts of the system. now most will say that you need barrier hose and alot of other horse shit. get a 2oz can of r12 oil and add it to your system. it will act like a sealant preventing the r134a from penetrating through the hose body.


ps it take 3 12oz cans of 134 to fill the system. also the low side is the larger diameter hose.

hihg pressure is liquid refregerant ie smaller tubing
low side is low pressure refrigerant ie larger diameter tubing

look for a system pressure of 350-375psi on hihg side
and a low side of 75-100psi

good luck !!

[AccordChemist]

i dont know about you all, but i just went to walmart and got a 134a kit for like $35 and my a/c has been blowin cold since....