Engine Troubles

[James]

Well, the problem I am facing is quite annoying.. When I start my car it automatically idles to 2,000-3,000 rpms, and remains there for a few good minutes.. Then it might drop to 1,500rpms for another 5 - 10 mins, then eventuallyl drop to idle.. THis happens on a hot day, cold day, mild day, stormy day, dry day, wet day, any damn day.. Lately I have had to resort to jamming the car into gear when its reving 2,000+ rpms which isn't desireable. Then, once in gear, the car is obviously getting to much gas as the brakes feel weak and the car jets off with no throttle applied. After about 1 min of driving it usually stops and the car drives like normal.. What do you think is my problem?

[MrBen]

Sounds to me like it's just an old engine. It's gotta be warmed up, no matter what. Even if it's 100 degrees out, that's still cold to the engine.

[shepherd79]

it is normal for the carbed Accords. my car used to do that.

[DanG86LX]

After 5min, idle should drop to < 1000rpm.
If it does that by itself, without kicking gas, it's ok.
If it does that by kicking gas pedal, then culprit is "high idle unloader"...
But if it doesn't do that, then ur "choke heater" might be the culprit.

Check Carb section, there are few threads there about choke and its accessories.

[James]

Well, the car used to high idle like it does, but if you tapped the gas it would lower to regular idle.. Now when I tap the gas it doesn't do that anymore.. It just keeps ideling for what seems like forever. This is only after the car has been sitting for a extended period of time (ie: overnight). Yet, isn't the idle supposed to drop when I tap the gas no matter how cold it is. Oh damn, forgot to mention.. This all started after I got a rebuilt carburetor. Car runs much better except for this little problem. One thing that might help is this. That little flap (choke I belive) that opens and closes when throttle is applied. It is slightly open (1/6 inch) all the time and never compelete closes unlike my old carb where it usually is completely shut if the car is off and no throttle is applied. Could that be the problem? If so, is there a way to fix that other than compelete replacement.

[joebeets]

If it's an auto, it's probably the throttle controller not getting vacuum from frequency solenoid valve C. Without it, it's held by spring pressure in the "start engine" position, even after the engine is started. Not mentioned in the Helm manual BTW.

A workaround is to rearrange hoses to provide *constant* vacuum, at the expense of more unburned hydrocarbon pollution on deceleration, whose control is the primary purpose of the throttle controller; the "start engine" feature is just an add-on.

Or use this as a test of FSV C.

See my early posts for details.