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staticpat
06-17-2002, 01:27 PM
i need to replace 4 of my studs on one wheel. one is half broken off, and the others are all different sizes and the splines are too long, so the threads strip (dont ask me i didn't do it). i got one easily out as a sample, the head was cracked in half. i went to the store and bought 4 new ones. now i cant knock any others out. the heads are too fat to come out. i hacksawed one off, but can't get another one back in its place. now i cant drive because i warped all the ends trying to hammer them out. the haynes manual doesn't show anything about replacing wheel studs.

can i easily remove the whole hub, that would make my life a little better? my hacksaw is too dull to cut anymore too. thanksss

one more question, one of my wheel had screws holding the disc to the hub, but the other didn't. do they really matter, or can i throw them out?

YK86
06-17-2002, 05:28 PM
The hub for both the front and back are held in with a big nut (1.25 inch). For the rear, you just need to pop off the center cap on the hub, put the wheel back on, drop to the ground, and loosen the hub nut. Then jack the car back up, remove the wheel, the drum, and the hub nut and the hub will slide off. Don't cut any more of the studs off. You'll need something to bang on when popping them off. As for the front, you need to take loosen the hub nut, take off the caliper, the caliper bracket, the disc, and then remove the hub nut and slide the hub off. I don't have my screws on my discs anymore because the head was all stripped. But if they are still good, you should keep them.

staticpat
06-17-2002, 05:49 PM
its on the front. i got the huge hubnut off, and the caliper and disc . how do i get the hub off? is it supposed to just slide out? there was also a thin metal shield held in by 3 screws, i got that off too.

dj99
06-17-2002, 08:22 PM
staticpat -

You and I have the same year & model! Yours is blue too?

Anyway, your front hub is attached to the steering knuckle (held on by top & bottom balljoints). It can be difficult to pop the balljoints, even using pullers, but not impossible. Then you can take the whole unit to a shop to have them removed.

If you are thinking you can remove the hub, you can't, without pressing out the bearing, and then you would have to replace it.

staticpat
06-17-2002, 08:31 PM
thankss dj99, you saved me alot of sweat. yeah my accords blue too (best color IMO), and a sedan, but sadly its automatic.

YK86
06-17-2002, 08:31 PM
Sorry, you are right. I must have been thinking of a different car. The whole knuckle needs to come out. Since that is a pain in the ass, are you sure you have tried every possible way to get it out (safely of course) with the hub still on the car?

staticpat
06-17-2002, 08:38 PM
i think im gonna end up hacksawing the studs off, since the threads are already unusable (c/o me). and for the new ones ill have to grind one side of the head down enough so theyll fit. im pretty sure it will work, because thats how the ones on the opposite side are (again i have no idea how this happened, i just found it like this). i really want to avoid bringing it to a shop, especially since there the ones who did this in the first place (broke a bolt off).

dj99
06-17-2002, 08:46 PM
I like your low-tech hacksaw method! I vote for that. Unless your lower balljoint need replacing anyway. I messed up a perfectly good lower balljoint trying to get it off. Got a new one for $25 and replaced by a shop for an extra $10. Don't do it unless you have to. The uppers have to be replaced with the arm!
Yeah, hacksaw! :chainsaw:

staticpat
06-18-2002, 02:21 PM
it worked! took two days, but now i can drive again. if anyone ever wants to replace their wheel studs, just get it done professionally, and replace the whole rotor, its not worth the work.

i ended up having to hacksaw the bolts off, dulled 3 blades, and broke 3 others (im not even kidding). then had to grind half the head off each new stud so it would fit by the rotor (which got smacked many times by a hammer accidentally, is that bad), and grind the splines down some, because they were too big to fit through. if i ever meet the people who i bought the car from im gonna smack them.

one last question, could the fact that one of my wheel discs isn't held in by a retaining screw be the cause of the car shaking whenever i brake? thanks for everyones help, my car would be forever broken if it wasn't for the people on this board helping me through all my technical problems.