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danronian
09-15-2003, 06:36 PM
I looked under my seat and the red light blinked 10 times and then repeats. I assume this is a code 10 which says
85-98 Accord
IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor .
Is it necessary to replace it(does it affect gas mileage? I know it doesnt much affect emissions since I just passed a week ago w/no problem at all)? How much is it?


edit: I looked on the online manual and found it's location but it says the way to test it is to test the resistance across the circuit. Since I do not have a way to test this should I just buy the thing since the computer is already telling me it is broken? That is after I make sure it is plugged properly and that the connector isnt corroded or something stupid like that.

cruznz
09-16-2003, 12:18 AM
check the wiring/connector first,for any sign of damage,....spray a bit of contact cleaner on the terminals connect it back up....reset the ECU and go for a drive,...see if it comes back on

danronian
09-16-2003, 05:00 AM
Is wd-40 the same as contact cleaner. If not will it work? B/c I have no cash on me and no contact cleaner.

1988starter
09-16-2003, 07:51 AM
No it is not the same but my friends 3g had this problem too much carbon built on the sensor and gave it weird readings I took it out cleaned it and reset the ecu no problems sense.

Dibbs
09-16-2003, 08:06 AM
Originally posted by danronian
Is wd-40 the same as contact cleaner. If not will it work? B/c I have no cash on me and no contact cleaner.

Carb or throttle body cleaner will serve the same purpose. It's removing carbon deposits that have collected on yourr contacts just as carb cleaner removes carbon deposits that build up in the carb.

danronian
09-16-2003, 09:08 AM
Well i tried to unscrew it in order to clean the sensor but the screws seem to be seized in there to me. I did unplug it and reset the computer but that made no difference. I'll try hitting the screws with a hammer to try to loosten them and spray some more wd-40 on them, but I'll first try cleaning the plug. How long does the battery have to be dis-connected to reset the comp? Does anyone know how this thing effects the engine's operation?

dosh8er
09-16-2003, 02:37 PM
Well,

I'd imagine your performance / mpg (kpL) would suffer, since engine is not getting accurate mixture of air and fuel.. i don't think it would do harm to drive it around like that..

1988starter
09-16-2003, 04:55 PM
Originally posted by danronian
Well i tried to unscrew it in order to clean the sensor but the screws seem to be seized in there to me. I did unplug it and reset the computer but that made no difference. I'll try hitting the screws with a hammer to try to loosten them and spray some more wd-40 on them, but I'll first try cleaning the plug. How long does the battery have to be dis-connected to reset the comp? Does anyone know how this thing effects the engine's operation?

If you take of the efi plentinum 5 12 mm nuts and some hoses you can clean it without removing it.

danronian
09-16-2003, 06:26 PM
Well the plug must not have been on correctly or something b/c when I checked the computer later tonight it wasnt giving me any codes.
But the thing is the car still doesnt run smooth at idle up to 1000rpm, and makes a pinging noise off idle. Any ideas?

1988starter
09-16-2003, 07:44 PM
Do you mean pinging like a spark knock.

danronian
09-16-2003, 07:51 PM
exactly

1988starter
09-17-2003, 04:15 AM
have you tried sjusting your timing or checking it and what octane gas do you use.

danronian
09-17-2003, 05:23 AM
Nope, but I will tonight. I run regular grade (87 I believe). Would using throttle body cleaner help at all or is it just a waste?

1988starter
09-17-2003, 03:33 PM
Originally posted by danronian
Nope, but I will tonight. I run regular grade (87 I believe). Would using throttle body cleaner help at all or is it just a waste?

I have found throttle body cleaner quite helpful. Try running 93 or 89 for a week to see if you get less detionation.

danronian
09-17-2003, 06:45 PM
I bought some valvoline sythentic cleaner since it was the cheapest and I'll try it soon. Tonight I got overoccupied with replacing the cardboard in my trunk, and puting it back together. Ill tell everyone how it goes. thanks

danronian
09-24-2003, 06:53 PM
I cleaned the inside of the throttle body, including taking off every vaccum hose and spraying into the throttle body to make sure of no clogs. The inside went from a black to shining silver. There is no change whatsoever in the rough idle but changing to high test ($$$) did fix the pinging off idle. I still need to check/adjust the timing though. But I have a ques about this:

Last year my car didn't pass emissions, but this year it did. The prob. last year was a half firing cylinder b/c of a broken spark plug wire. They replaced the plug wires and plugs and ever since it has had this "rough" idle. It sounds like the idle is to slow but it does it up to 1200rpm. If the timing is in fact retarded by the emissions people, would puting it back to the stock timing mark increase the car's emissions at all? To me it seems like stock would be best, but would retarding the timing actually decrease emissions at all?

1988starter
09-24-2003, 07:19 PM
Changing the timing back to normal should help and chances are if you are pinging you have it advanced where as changint it to TDC should help things in the emissions department also check for a vacume leak on the rough idle and also check you cap and rotor.

danronian
09-24-2003, 07:52 PM
The whole distributer/cap/ and everything related was replaced with new a week before I bought it last Dec. What would I check, just to see if the contacts are corroded? I really dont know anything about these distributers, I am much more used to my malibus 1975 HEI setup.

I know all of the vaccum lines on my car are original, but none of them are badly rotted. And I can not hear any vacumm noises. I also just cleaned out the PCV valve, it was clogged shut but it didnt seem to make a difference at all with the idle.

1988starter
09-25-2003, 04:10 AM
When was the last time you did a valve ajustment. Give it a try

extremly low Si
09-25-2003, 05:24 AM
is it twin cam? you could b suffering from oil starvation and your cam bearings are fuct, had this b4. or it could be more serious. BUT its probably something extremly simple like your air filters bloked or your timings out. good luk, wot engine?

danronian
09-25-2003, 09:10 AM
It's the stock 89 lx-i motor, sohc. I checked the air filter though. I dont think the valves were ever adjusted and it has 151K mi., so that hopefully will do the trick.

89AccordLXI666
07-10-2004, 07:20 PM
Ok I have an 89 Accord LX-i EFI... I just got a code 10 today... now where is this "IAT Sensor" Exactly located. and what does it look like? If someone could please help me out with this, I'd be very greatful. Thanks guy's Lataz.

smufguy
07-10-2004, 08:58 PM
Ok I have an 89 Accord LX-i EFI... I just got a code 10 today... now where is this "IAT Sensor" Exactly located. and what does it look like? If someone could please help me out with this, I'd be very greatful. Thanks guy's Lataz.

stand on the driver side of the car and look at the intake manifold. See where all the crazy vaccuum lines come out of? (brake booster side to be clear).

Right below the vaccum lines, to the right u will see an electric connector clip. Thats the Air Intake Temperature sensor.

I have to clean mine out, ill probably do it tomorrow.

Hope that helps. ;)