okay?can someone help????

[accordlxi2.0]

i'm gonna try this again.(for the lx)
i wanna remove the thermovalve the long one.
guessing thermo valve C; since the other thermovalve is working maybe i can connect the line's together????????:confused:
so how could this be done; whould there be any bad out come from this.
ALSO could a bad efe heater cause the sputtering problem in the morning????????
:bow: someone help

i found the air/fuel mixture screw . . . . the cap is off , so i wanna adjust it.
i think that this will solve the sputtering prob. in the morning, and the gas mileage.

[A20A1]

I'm not sure which valve is which. But you can substitute the 3 pronged vavle for a 2 pronged valve... you just get rid of the air bleed #17... I don't know about connecting multiple vacuum lines to a single valve though.

[accordlxi2.0]

cool. . . . . . okay i'll do that but what about the a/f screw?

[Magny]

it should have a cap on it, you dont want that thing rattling out and get you screwed

[accordlxi2.0]

it's fine but what whould be the out come of this???????
better mpg's , more power, or stop the sputtering in the morning.
i srew the a/f in or out?????????????????????????????????????

[A20A1]

out rich
lean in

[accordlxi2.0]

so this should stop that sputtering and the smoking in the morning??????
thanx-n-advance
i mean if i make it run lean some???

[accordlxi2.0]

:sadwave: :confused:can some one help again???:sadwave:

it seem's to get worse
this morning the tach was at the first line above zero(assuming that's 200rpm's)
and alot more smoke is coming out!
when i tap the gas to set the choke onlyit closes, then the engine start's and the gap is about big enoght to fit one or two penny's, plus i noticed that the choke open's when the problem straighten's out. but if i open the choke while it's sputtering it start's to rev to about 1500rpm's.
i solved one problem. the fast idle.:D at first when i adjusted this it did'nt seem to matter cause it still revved to 3000rpm's and the screw had fell out.
but now the highest it'll go is 1500-1900rpm's.
i have emission in about 2 day's and i know all this raw gas is killing the o2 and cat. so i wanna have this fixed before then.

[accordlxi2.0]

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE
i started it this morning and looked measured the time for the choke.
it did it's sputtering and the choke plate gap was'nt as thick as one penny.
it looked like it was gonna open more then gas shot up and the engine shut off and the choke closed!

SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME OUT!?

[DanG86LX]

The choke does not fully open at startup!

..when i tap the gas to set the choke only it closes, then the engine start's and the gap is about big enough to fit one or two penny's.."

That's normal when coolant temp < 65*F. Above 65*F, thermovalve A plugs #18 and full manifold vacuum is applied to Choke Opener, but even then the choke flap opens like ~1/8" gap or 45*. Up to 5min, the choke heater - bimetallic spring pulls the choke flap slowly to vertical..
If ur choke behaves like that, then might not cause what u call "sputtering".

[iamvandemon]

to tell ya the truth bro, the carbs and emission systems on these cars are very complex. I doubt that there are many people who could tell you exactly what is wrong from what you explained.

it could be a rotted out vacuum hose, plugged port, leaky diaphragm, etc... or most likely a combination of things that has compounded over the years.

my first three accords I owned ran like shit because of that stuff. like the one I drive now... I bought it for a k less than it was worth because the owner couldn’t barely even get it started, and when he did it ran like shit. so the first Saturday after I picked it up I rebuilt the carb and replaced ALL the vacuum lines. with only 80k on the car it runs like I just pulled it out of the show room and it 1987.

so why do I tell you this long story that you probably didn’t want to know?... because if your car is worth 5 to 8hrs of your labor and maybe $50 bucks tops for parts, you should go ahead and rebuild the carb and replace all the vacuum lines on it. if I were you I would replace all the vacuum hoses on it first and if that doesn’t solve most of your problems then rebuild the carb.

but that’s just my opinion.


Van

[accordlxi2.0]

shit:( i might as well convert this one to pgm-fi.
by the way i read something about choke aglinment, but that book is from 86',our's is 89'.whould doing this help? also i said it spit up gas and it shut off. let's say that the gap is suppose to be this big |___|(when it's first started) right but it's this big|_|
i know i'm being a pain in tha ass.
but i apriciate yall help.
well i'll get back on yall input , and do the emmision's:eek: and see what happen's if it fail's ,
then hello pgm-fi.
acutully it's what he wants to do.

[accordlxi2.0]

IT"S GOTTEN WORSE IT SHUT OFF AND I WOULD HAVE TO RESTART IT. WTF IS GOING ON HERE I KNOW SOMEONE HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE???

[A20A1]

Hmm... to pass emmissions... Lower float level... lean out a/f ratio on fuel mix screw... disable powervalve and I was thinking of little special plastic caps you can cover the jet holes with inside the float bowl then drill a sligtly smaller hole.


Also remove choke flap...

That way you should be able to have the stock carb with vacuum lines removed... but running much leaner just for the test.

[A20A1]

don't drive like that for more then an hour or so though.... just hook it up outside the testing place and then go in. :D

[accordlxi2.0]

well after seaching and searching i'll just get a splitter for the thermo valve then the choke unloader should work cause that does'nt move at all either.
btw, the as system is it suppose to suck all the time or some of the time.
yall been cool with me and i really apriciate the help ;)