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carotman
06-21-2002, 07:47 AM
I've been really busy these past days and couldn't be on the board as I would like to.

If you still have unanswered EFI swap questions, ask them here and I shall answer :)

carotman
06-21-2002, 04:12 PM
One more thing I realised yesterday:

I did know that the mounting holes for the distributor were different. But what I didn't know is that they are mounted in a different angle.

I adjusted my timing on spec but the distributor is pushed all the way through. This means there is NO way to give more advance to my timing.

This is not a real problem because the timing is set properly. However, I wanted to give it like 2 degrees of advance to get a little more pep on accelerations..... which I can't

The only way to solve that is to install the EFI distributor/cam holder. It's the part that clamps the cam near the distributor. It's not hard to remove and install but can be tricky because it is an important part that should be torqued properly. Make sure you have access to a torque wrench.

The other way to do it would be to grind a bit of the distributor pivot point so it can go farther....

Choose the one you prefer.

smufguy
06-21-2002, 07:57 PM
hey man, u got pic of what ur talking about carot. i kinda get what u are tlaking about, but not sure.

carotman
06-22-2002, 06:14 AM
I'll get a picture up soon when I do the mods..

But you can see both mounting flanges here

EFI bolts (http://www.86-89accord.com/ezboard/EFI/efidistributorflange.jpg)

Carb Bolts (http://www.86-89accord.com/ezboard/EFI/carbdistributorflange.jpg)

I'm not 100% sure it will do something (it might be related to the cam alignment pin also since I got an aftermarket cam)

I'll just change the upper flange and see how it goes.

smufguy
06-22-2002, 08:24 AM
yeah that is what i thought u were talking about. but u already said it would be different cause of the missing third one right.

if u need the thrid one, u need the whole new head right?

carotman
06-22-2002, 01:27 PM
No need for a new head, just the U shaped clamp that holds the cam in place will do the thing...

I'm probably doing this tomorrow and I'll take pictures of the damn thing

smufguy
06-22-2002, 03:19 PM
oh, then i gotta take it from the junk too. Man..... u should see the 3gs there, its like ALL of em. Atleast 15 of em there. i aint kidding. i took a black hood and a bumper for my car today. damn its gonna look nice with the burgendy paint on mine. :flip: :flipa:

GreenMachine
06-23-2002, 02:12 PM
I have a question ! Do you know about this neutral safety switch I will need for using an auto harness on my manual. I got on friom the wrecker well at least I think it is - it was attached to the actaul auto shifter base/drivers side, held on by 2 bolts with, with 11 wires in a clip goig to it. well I got it and reattched it to the wire harness. It is white - looks like a little cpu chip thing about 4"x2" with a ground wire ! If you know anything about this, that be greatt!

Also ran it another problem -not major- I won't have any rear wipers or washer fluid for the hatch ( maybe i'll just shave em)
also the clip for the brake master cylinder is not there ? I believe it is just for the brake warning light. Other than that everything else seems like it will work. :stick:

carotman
06-24-2002, 01:42 PM
well, I never seen the Neutral switch so I can't give you info on that.

What year was the harness from? You should have a master cyl connector...

GreenMachine
06-24-2002, 02:44 PM
Its an 89 coupe harness - could anyone who has an 89 let me know how your brake fluid master cyl. connects to the harness ?

that would be very helpful !
or else I'll go take a look this weekend at the wrecker.
If I can noy get it connected not a big deal I ussual check my fluids often anyways - it'll be worth it for efi :rolleyes:

GreenMachine
06-25-2002, 08:35 PM
There is 2 wires coming off the harness by the brake fluid res. but not the same clip
Today I realized that those 2 wires are both the same color as the ones on my brake fluid master cyl. so I'll just splice them together and they should work. :)
where is everyone - am I asking to many questions
or what ? lol :D

smufguy
07-22-2002, 03:50 AM
hey green machine, are u done with your conversion man? heheh, i just came back from my vacation and i am all hyped to finish my baby up real fast.

GreenMachine
07-22-2002, 08:38 PM
Just need to get a tranny clipp and couple things here and there.
tomorow I get my ractive open air and then fill up fluids - then cross my fingers:lol
so far I have spent about $1500 guessing - I'm afraid to add up all the reciepts - new parts :
- upper/lower ball joints
- prelude arms
- new lower springs
- new monroe struts
- both outer tie rods
- open air filter and tube
- Clifford cyber 4 alarm
- 3 way jbl speakers
- insulation for int.
- full conversion to efi

Ya I'm sure we've all spent way to much money our cars, but I guess its all worth it in the end

smufguy
07-22-2002, 11:09 PM
i am thinking of getting the excalibur alarm. is it a good buy for 85 bucks?

GreenMachine
07-24-2002, 02:59 PM
85 $ seems pretty cheap is that a Clifford or who makes excaliber ?

smufguy
07-24-2002, 09:17 PM
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/hypaudio/atv1000.html

i found the alarm system thru yahoo shopping. dont know who makes it, seems like its a standalone comp.

smufguy
08-08-2002, 06:49 AM
dude carotman, i got a problem with the wiring can u help me out here? green machine can u help me out with the engine bay wiring harness?

GreenMachine
08-08-2002, 08:24 PM
What do ya need to know !

smufguy
08-09-2002, 04:23 AM
i got it fixed man, thanks for the concern :)

4sillypwr
10-28-2002, 11:28 AM
hey i was wondering if you can do the efi conversion with parts from a 87 prelude si. am i right that it has to be form the same year car?if so i am going to take all the parts off and sell them as a whole. so if this is possible i would like to have a list of what to remove. if someone wants it make me an offer and i'll probably take it. i might have to tow it to the junkyard so they can give me a whole 50 bucks for it, bastards. thanks.

smufguy
10-28-2002, 02:50 PM
Are u talking about an efi conversion on ur carb accord with efi parts from a prelude?

well the 87 SI uses a different intake system right? besides, u tell me why u wanna swap the efi from the prelude? Dont expect a power increase though. I dont think its gonna be a easy task considering the accord. The engine bay harness could be matched with a lil pain, but if ur gonna use ur prelude cabin harness, it aint gonna work on ur accord. Parts work, but wiring harness wont.

Get the parts, i am sure even the 3rd gen lude intake manifold would fit our A20A3.

did u know u just answered to a thread that wasd dead for almost 3 months??

4sillypwr
10-29-2002, 10:34 AM
i just need to know what parts i can strip off the car before i take it to the junkyard. and yes i was wondering what parts could be used to convert from carb to efi. i ddn't know it was so frowned upon to post on an old thread geez. who cares how old threads are. does anyone know what parts can be used for the swap? just a list of what i can salvage, that is all i need.

GreenMachine
10-29-2002, 06:56 PM
I don't think its frowned upon - yeah back from the dead :lol

smufguy
10-29-2002, 07:13 PM
yep, its a funny suggestion. Not to be taken in the wrong way. :D. Here is what u can take out

1. Intake manifold (whole)
2. Fuel filter and stuff
3. engine bay wire harness
4. Emission control unit
5. Oxygen sensors
6. Cabin harness and Ecu

This is like taking out the whole veins and nerves of ur car. Take em out, if not you. someone else might

njpeter
11-28-2002, 02:34 PM
I haven't picked up this new 86 accord yet, but I was told there is a problem with the idle surging when hot, I'm brand new to injection accords ( I was a carb guy all the way). I've got the silver manual, but perhaps you can save me the pain of learning the whole fi system right now with a quick tip, so I can take a shot at the inspection line.

smufguy
11-28-2002, 07:42 PM
what do u mean by idle surge when hot? Like it stumbles after its warmed up and when u rev it and let go of the gas pedal? or does it like rev up and down and up and down. If u can, see what it does when ur there with the car.

Sean
11-29-2002, 12:41 AM
if the car is stumbling and surging when hot or cold up and down check the baro sensor it sounds like its not plugged in our it malfuntionsing.

njpeter
11-29-2002, 05:08 AM
but the way this guy worked the deal, he said in the ebay ad that if I didn't like it, I could walk away..so he's confident it's worth the $300 ( buy it now was $600, but he had no reserve) he got for it ( I guess he just doesn't want to deal with fixing it..let's face it in the used car biz, if you don't have parts, sell it cheap, make way for a profit car)..maybe he took it in trade. Anyhow I would say the idle jumps up and down, the way it does in a carb accord with a bad idle control system.

I'm excited about a sunroof ( assuming it works)..even if I have to do some work on this car, he claims only 120k or so on the clock ( doubtful, but we'll see what the title and carfax says)..bottom line is...if the tranny is good and the car isn't great, I'll be parting it out..which means the complete fuel injected engine, harness and all bits. I have three other accords, all carbs...so do I reallly need a black sheep fi with other possible problems?

it's an 86 also, which I know doesn't have a great reliability rating as far as 3g's go..has the nice rims however..I have the honeycomb aluminum wheels ( prelude I think) and they are impossible to keep clean.


so wish me some luck on this one

smufguy
11-29-2002, 09:21 AM
good luck buddy, but since ur in NJ, u can come by New brunswick ( i live in somerset) and new brunswick has a lotta 3g on sale. thats not a good place to buy a car from, but u can get a sweet deal on it. I got mine for 1300 bucks only and had 140K miles on it and car was in good shape for the most part.

njpeter
12-10-2002, 05:05 AM
the ebay guy came thru..car was delivered this weekend. Car appears to have legit 127k on the clock ( some prior owner left lots of stuff under the front seat..mainly quick lube bills AND a carfax!

now for the bad news..body is poor..rusted around the wheel wells..but I've seen worse.

Exhaust needs a new flex...I hate exhauist work

power windws are out ( should be an easy for me)

sunroof(!) working..and NOT leaking ( now that's a rare find eh?

interior is ok in front sun damaged in back

so now to where I need help..damm injector system.

the car starts right up ( even yesterday when it was 15 degrees overnight )

the idle surges up and down 1-3k..sound like an elf is always blippin the throttle..injection warning light is not on ( i haven't checked the box yet for blinking led... will do this this weekend if it isn't frigid).

the silver bible doesn't mention this specific problem :-(..be much easier if the damm light was on and led blinking.

Of course I'll go over all the vac lines and spray it down with gumout ( this one would qualify for a dirty engine bay)..some rust explosion from the cooling system wasn't fully cleaned up I expect to have to replace the radiator after this car passes NJ inpection


so any tips or pointers to stuff here would be most appreciated

smufguy
12-10-2002, 08:51 AM
since the flex joint is a bitch to replace, i would say if ur planning on modding it, just change the whole exhaust. Remove cruize if u dont want to and the AC if its not working. If its a Denso compressor, i am sure its runnin oka by now, but with no R12. IT does free up a lot of weight and room to clean shit out. anywayz, reset the ECU and see if it runs okay after that. I feel ur concern about the rust on the wheel wells, damn snow always melts last on those places.

njpeter
12-15-2002, 07:57 AM
I've never seen such a bad radiator on a 3g..so Bad I had to collect the rusty water for hazard disposal day ( my wonderful next door neighbor calls the EPA to complain about my "auto repairs" if I spill a little oil anywhere on my driveway..imagine if the rusty river was flowing next to his lawn.

Anyhow, while all of this was going on the car started to idle properly...but only for a little while..back to the up and down 1000-2000rpm idle..Will try cleaning the fast idle valve today.

I understand thgat the down pipe on LX-i is differnt then LX...so I may have to pop for a new downpipe...some "mechancic" replaced the flex section with solid pipe..and I think the downpipe welds have cracked ( geez..a real suprise eh?)

I'm still finding my way around the FI system, but the only manual I have is for 87..86 much different?..read somewhere that the chnages came in 88 year. This car could be sweet with a couple of hundred in body work aroudn there rear wheels..mileage is low enough ( 127k) and you just gotaa love that sunroof...and of course I'll have to see what the scoop is with the a/c..all of my 3g's have been converted to 134 and they have been quite good..even on the hotter days..the sunroof will help loads keeping the heat load down..that's why I sorta hate my gray fleet..gets too hot..my artic white 87 is my favorite ( should be..I paid $8k for it in 1990 and NO RUST ( except by the rear LX badge..where they all rust).

Pulling the new tires and rims today for my working commuter..gotta hit the inspection line this week and my tires are a little questionable.

still looking for the definitive answer on the surging idle.

smufguy
12-15-2002, 10:12 AM
sorry man, i am left with no options for you :( Check paul's website and download his manual if u could. Its really handy.

njpeter
12-15-2002, 10:57 AM
So I dragged the old gray ghost out of the garage this morning for another round of Fuel injection funnies. After going over the manual and not finding anything of use, I turned to simple logic.

Hard to believe but simply adjusting the idle speed screw in the tb solved the problem!, the screw was turned wayyyyy out for some reason ( another one of those "mechanics")

I found that the reason the drivers window didn't go down is that somebody nicked the control unit!..I pulled it out of my wife's car ( one with the bad tranny) and it worked like a charm.

Cooling system seems pacified..no new rust and the fans finally went on ( I would venture to guess that there is no thermostat in there)

swapped the rims onto my commuter, found that the left rear control arm joint is shot..first time I've ever seen a bad one of those.

Got a good look at the exhauist situation..it's bad..junior welder attempting to patch it...I gotta replace the whole thing. I might try a transplant from the other 88..the exhaust is one of the more expsensive bits, but I think I can get a new downpipe for $80 and with some carful work I might be able to salvage the cat and the rear pipe. I wish I could find out whay this car failed inspection last time it tried.

I'm done for today..wasn't feeling good to start with ( that nasty cold going around in the east) and bewteen screwing with the windows and swapping the rims, I'm ready to lay ou the couch and watch fight club on dvd.

moral of the story?....well if the FI light isn't on..look for something realllly stupid.

smufguy
12-16-2002, 07:23 AM
hahahah, sweet. Man... i never ever would have guessed that. Glad you got it fixed. when mine wont start, it turned out that i had not plugged the injector resistor box right.