"Crack" Sound When Applying or Releasing Brakes

[DBMaster]

I have been putting up with a sound from the right front for quite a while now. I don't hear it unless the window is down so it hasn't been too hard to live with. Anyway, I figured that it would go away after I replaced the axle shafts as they were original.

I hear this sound (sounds like a "crack") whenever I apply the brakes or release them. It comes from the area of the right front wheel. The following are all in good shape: brakes, axle shaft, ball joints, strut. A good Honda mechanic told me that the sound was probably being caused by worn out "torsion bar bushings." I would call them "anti-roll bar bushings." Anyway, they were only $2 each and took very little time to replace. They were not in good shape, but the new ones did not help the problem. It does not seem to affect the way the car drives, though it is a little embarrasing to me because people outside the car can hear it.

Anyone else have this problem and solved it?

Thanks!

[MrBen]

I have a similar situation. When slamming on the brakes, or sudden jolt at low speeds, I hear a creak. Mechanic told me it was something inside my car, like a door panel moving.

I just live with it.

[TJ89Accord]

my car would make a clunk sound sometimes when braking, but also if I accelerated too, ended up being a bad tie rod end. I don't know if thats what it is though. Try shaking the wheel and see if there is any play in it.

tim

[MrBen]

Tie rod end? I bet that's my problem. Mine are loose and the steering wheel shakes.

Well my problem is solved.

[NXRacer]

i had that same problem with my old toyota wagon. Sometimes it would be pretty loud, and sometimes it wouldn't do it at all. i just ignored it.

[Dibbs]

Could be ball joints or tie rod ends.

[TJ89Accord]

when my tie rod end was shot you could actually shake the wheel. If you grabbed the top of the tire, and shook it it would move back and forth a little. I got it fixed, cause I didn't think it was too safe lol.

[Dibbs]

plus they're really cheap. THey're like $12 each at Autozone

[MrBen]

I got quoted 600 to get them fixed.

I'd do it myself, but I have NO idea how to do something like that.

[Dibbs]

Tie rod ends? They're insanley easy. All you need is a pickle fork and the appropriate wrenches. Takes like 10 minutes per side to fix. Maybe you're thinking upper & lower ball joints? Those can get pricey and labor intensive. BTW the ball joints pop when you hit the brakes too.

[MrBen]

He told me the inner tie rod ends were loose and said it required taking out the whole steering column or some shit.

[Dibbs]

Ohhhh inner. My bad. Yeah, those are expensive. I didn't know the steering column had to come out to replace them though. I'd check w/ Jim or someone to double check. For some reason I assumed you were talking about the outer ones. Sorry.

[DBMaster]

I think in my case it has nothing to do with the steering. The whole rack was replaced just two months ago. The rack does not include tie rod ends, but mine were fine to reuse as they had no play in them at all. Since the sound is exactly the same (no better, no worse) as before the rack and axles were replaced I have to think it is something else.

The car rides fine down the highway. Alignment is perfect (done right after the rack), no shimmy, shake, or vibration. I took apart the brakes to resurface the rotors (no more pulsation) and cleaned and lubed the caliper pins. So, the calipers are not sticking.

I guess I can live with it.

[MrBen]

My fault, I didn't know there was a difference. This is all a new ballgame to me.

But the balljoints have been replaced (lowers) and the uppers are fine. Axles are new too. The steering wheel was shimmying between shifting, now it isn't since the lower bj's were done. I took it back since it was still shaking at highway speeds and crap, he says its the inner tie rod ends.

Not sure it's worth the 600 to get them fixed

Sorry to hijack your thread.

[TJ89Accord]

Originally posted by GhettoAccord
Not sure it's worth the 600 to get them fixed

Sorry to hijack your thread.

Well, if one of them snaps, your wheel will just turn out. Happened to my brother the other day. one wheel looked normal, and one faced the other direction. really weird looking.

[SiR]

Might be the radius-bar bushing.

[DBMaster]

Not sure it's worth the 600 to get them fixed


I don't know where you have been going, but I paid about $550 installed for my new rack. This was a reman. that came from a California rebuilder preferred by my Honda shop. It is of much better quality than what you would get at Auto Zone for $100.

Anyway, the "inner tie rods" are part of the rack assembly. About all it didn't come with is the tie rod ends.

[DBMaster]

Might be the radius-bar bushing.

I'll look at that. I would be surprised because they should have caught that when doing the alignment. I would think if those were bad that the car would not hold the toes adjustment very well.

I read somewhere else that the cracking noise can also be from "crossmember to body" bolts. I am not sure which bolts they mean, to tell the truth. The procedure is to remove the bolts and put flat washer under them before putting them back.

Sounds easy enough if I could figure out which bolts they are! At least it would be much time and expense to try this.

[Dibbs]

I need a new rack. A seal on the pass. side is leaking and the boot is broken. Probably hit something. :D You seriously paid $550 for a new rack? Was that installed? I know of some good rebuilders here in Hou that do axles and racks and they charge around $200 for a fully rebuilt rack like you're talking about.

[MrBen]

There's a place here who does rack and pinion. Think that's what I need? I know the guy who works there and I'm sure I could get a deal.

[DBMaster]

The price I paid included the installation. I decided to take it easy and have it done by somebody with a lift! The cost of the rack itself was just under $300.

Like I said, there are many "grades" of rebuilt parts. This happens to be one of the better ones. If I were doing it myself I would have just ordered one from Manchester or Majestic. More money, but at least you know you will not have to do the job again!

[Dibbs]

good point

[DBMaster]

There's a place here who does rack and pinion. Think that's what I need? I know the guy who works there and I'm sure I could get a deal.

That just doesn't make sense to me. If your P/S rack boots have been torn for a while you could have worn out the ball and socket joint that connects the inner and outer tie rods. You could also be leaking at either the inner tie rod seals or somewhere from the gear box - are you? As far as just saying "the inner tie rods are worn out" it just doesn't sound right.

I had to replace my rack because a two year slow leak finally turned into the P/S puking all its fluid on the floor in the garage. There is really no sense in trying to replace tie rod seals or messing with the inner tie rods themselves. If it's actually the steering parts you migh as well go with a new rack. I am told to avoid "sleeved" racks. This is a cheap method of rebuilding that allows the rebuilder to use sub par racks. A good rebuilder has to throw more cores away because he will not "sleeve" them.

[DBMaster]

Hey! What about the torque rod? That funny looking upper thing that connects the engine to the firewall with rubber bushings in either end. It seems like my car "clunks" pretty bad into reverse, too. The lower motor mounts are good as I replaced them just a few years ago, but I was wondering if maybe the torque rod bushings could be the source of the cracking sound.

[TINBOAT]

...if you are using metallic brake pads, they tend to "weld" themselves to the rotors...nuthin serious...have a look at your calipers, and make sure all the spring stuff is all there, and not worn out...if this is the case, the brake pads tend to 'walk' with the rotors (everytime you use the brakes)...from reading all the posts, my $.02 sez it's an annoying brake problem...but not a safety issue...Good Luck !!

[DBMaster]

if you are using metallic brake pads, they tend to "weld" themselves to the rotors...nuthin serious...have a look at your calipers, and make sure all the spring stuff is all there, and not worn out...if this is the case, the brake pads tend to 'walk' with the rotors (everytime you use the brakes)...from reading all the posts, my $.02 sez it's an annoying brake problem...but not a safety issue...Good Luck !!

I never heard that before, but if that is what happening it could very well cause what I am hearing because it coincides with applying and releasing the brakes.

Maybe I will take a little trip over to Pep Boys and buy a set of ceramic pads and see what happens. Worst case, I will at least eliminate the wheel dusting.

[neoblue89lxi]

It is not hard at all to replace your accordian boot that fits over the rack. All you need to do is remove the outter tie rod end and and slide on the new boot which is 22 dollars hear at my honda dealer. The boots include the straps and grease. You need to check your boots and make sure they are not split. My splitting was on the whole bottom half. This should be something checked by everyone to prevent further more expensive damage to the joint.

[DBMaster]

Funny thing was that I actually went to the time anbd trouble to replace my rack boots only a few months before the rack seals let loose. It is nearly impossible to put the tie rod ends back on and have your alignment be right so plan to spend another $60 for an alignment when you get done.

[DBMaster]

Well, I believe this has a happy ending. I took the car in to the Honda shop in town that I trust. One of the mechanics told me he would check the car out for free. I had already replaced my "dog bone" motor mount bushings and the left side motor mount - it was shot. (This is the one that connects to the engine through the timing belt cover)

Anyway, I did not know the amount of engine movement that was normal so I wanted them to check the lower mounts. I replaced both of those a few years ago, but I figured maybe they had gone bad again because of the left mount being broken.

To make a long story short he figured out that my right upper control arm was shifting back and forth a little when changing from reverse to drive or when braking. I have a camber kit on the right side only (Ingall's) and somehow the lock down nut had loosened. I wish I had know that was all I had to do! Anyway, he told me the motor mounts were fine and he tightened the lock nut. He did not charge me anything, but I gave him a tip.

[DBMaster]

Well, I just had to resurrect this thread. The noise gradually got worse until it was joined by a new, louder noise that was more of a squeaking and rattling from the front passenger side. I starting thinking it was the upper ball joint or upper control arm bushings. I took it to my mechanic as I did not have time to mess with it, especially now that I am in the role of single dad and do not have the second car at home anymore to make those inevitable parts runs while the Accord is dismantled.

It WAS the upper control arm bushings! A new upper control arm has taken care of it. With my discount it was $211 total. I am not complaining as it beats the hell out of a car payment which I am not sure I can afford yet. Could be more lawyer fees as we may have one stickng point in the divorce decree.

Hope all of you are doing well!

[od2681]

damn dibbs i havent seen you post ina while..whats up man