Good Place to Buy a Radiator

[DBMaster]

I bought a radiator from SPI Distribution three years ago.

It was an all-metal aftermarket unit. It has been leaking around the lower tank solder joint for a good while.

I faxed these guys my invoice and they are shipping me a replacement unit with a UPS call tag, no questions asked. All I need to do is put the old one in the box and let UPS take it bakc to them, no cost to me.

BTW, I was told that you should stick with a plastic/metal radiator and not switch to an all metal one. The one SPI is shipping me as a replacement will be plastic/metal.

If anybody needs a radiator you can order one from them at 800-841-7717.

[Dibbs]

Just curious, why should we stick with the plastic/metal combo instead of the all metal radiator?

[k-roy]

How much?

[A20A1]

It depends... If you can get a good quality welded aluminum one then go for it.

I don't care for the plastic crimped one I have now, I'll probably get a Fluidyne from a civic.

[danronian]

I wouldnt suggest UPS to ship a radiator. Once they stomped a foot through one I had shipped to me.

I would think all metal would be better since the plastic/metal ones usually leak eventually due to the different expansion and cooling rates of the materials. All old cars had metal radiators and most of them last about 25-30years with good coolant maintence and a few rows pinched off due to corrosion. I would go with all metal. I wish I could afford an aluminum one for my malibu, the thing is they cost about $250, wheras the stock one costs about $99. Sure they cool a ton better but I could get a stock one to cool the same with a good electric fan attached and the stupid bug catching flex fan in the garbage.

[DBMaster]

Funny thing is that my mechanic, a Honda guy since 1978 says that the plastic/metal ones really do better with the varying expanision/contraction rates BECAUSE they are crimped with rubber gaskets. The metal ones are brass tanks with copper cores (unless you go with a pricey all aluminum model). It is exactly the varying metals that cause the solder joints to get hairline cracks. I don't know why the older cars (like my 72 Pontiac) were able to go so long with them. One interesting thing, though, is the Pontiac's original radiator lasted for 180,000 miles, about identical to how long the Accord's original lasted.

The mechanic told me that they started in their shop about five years ago using all metal CSF radiators. They had most of them come back in less than two years with leaks and they have not had trouble with the plastic/metal aftermarket ones.

A comment about cooling. The factory radiator in these cars is just fine. Mine has NEVER run hot. I did notice that our Odyssey uses a plastic tank aluminum core radiator. Those, I like because they stay spotless inside. Ours are plastic tank copper core which require more diligent coolant changes to prevent corrosion buildup.

[Vinny]

Honestly i think Its just personal prefference and depends on who you talk to. Yes you can or could get cracks in solder joints in a radiator just like you get cracks in any other solder joint. As far as them getting most of their radiators back in 2 years that could have been just faulty manufacturing from a specific company. As far as the Plastic/metal ones go I just replaced on that had a 2"x6" whole blow out of the top of it. Like to have seen that happen with an all metal one. Both my accords have the plastic ones just because thats what most everyone sells now, probably cheaper to make them

[Dibbs]

I got my all metal radiator from Radiators plus in Houston for $125. That came with a cap, thermostat and gasket.

[DBMaster]

Oh, I think I forgot to say that mine was $99, including shipping. I guess there's a reason that Honda's Denso radiator is $350 (and that price is the online price!).

There is a coolant made by Evans that is "waterless" and is used straight. The boiling point is supposed to be so high that you do not need pressure in the cooling system. If that is the case I'll bet the components will last much longer.

Just a thought.

[zero.counter]

Originally posted by Dibbs
I got my all metal radiator from Radiators plus in Houston for $125. That came with a cap, thermostat and gasket.
Now that is a freakin deal.

The aluminum ones are the way to go for me. Koyo and fluidyne are good, but the circle track type Griffin aluminum radiators are especially good and not very expensive, $189.00 + 11.95 shipping.

But about the plastic, I have not had many problems with them in the past either. The occassional filler neck leak or where the plastic tank meets the metal portion of the radiator giving under pressure was experienced, but that was after years of driving with proper maintenance.