Removing Crank Pulley Bolt - Phase VII

[it's paid for]

. . . so . . . I go to Advance Auto Parts and pick up one of these . . .
http://www.bloomyourbusiness.com/honda/new_toy_half_inch_pivot_01.jpg
. . . plus, I get some other stuff . . .

. . . so . . . I go home and start again trying to remove the pulley bolt and I do this to three (yeah, I said three) of my extensions . . . http://www.bloomyourbusiness.com/honda/twist_n_shout_01.jpg . . . so . . . I'm guessing I should go get a 1/2" 17 mm and a 1/2" extension and I might not have this problem . . . I'll be the first to confess - my extensions were cheap . . . & I'm also guessing I should'nt be using the 3/8 to try to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt . . . that's why I'm on my way to the parts store to buy a 1/2" 17mm socket to go along with my 1/2" wrench . . .

. . . this is the only way I could figure out how to keep the crank from rotating while I try . . . and try . . . and try . . . to loosen the crank pulley bolt . . . I pray it doesn't snap and the sharp bit flies into my neck, slashing a major artery and having me bleed to death on the shop floor next to my Honda . . . http://www.bloomyourbusiness.com/honda/removing_the_crank_pulley_bolt_01.jpg

. . . but at least this ordeal would be over . . . I'm not really sure why I'm continuing with this thing . . . I really don't believe it can be done . . . I must be insane . . .

[Dibbs]

It's times like these you wish you had an Impact wrench. It would come off in about 10 seconds.

[Justin86]

I have the same problem, it took for every to find out how to make it stop rotating then I broke all of my extensions, and the impact wrench can get it off either. :WTF:

[NXRacer]

well, you might want to think about investing in a couple tools by a manufacturer that has a lifetime warranty (craftsman, husky, snapon etc) just so you can take em back and get them replaced when they break.

when you use that 1/2" breaker bar, get a long pipe and add to the leverage. you might be able to break it free with that. I'd also try to find something more heavy duty then that drill bit to hold the pully. that thing looks like it'll break or bend before the nut comes loose.

[Dibbs]

If an impact wrench won't do the trick. The only step left is a torch. Heat up the bolt and apply the impact. Repeat if necessary. It will come off eventually.

[Justin86]

Originally posted by Dibbs
If an impact wrench won't do the trick. The only step left is a torch. Heat up the bolt and apply the impact. Repeat if necessary. It will come off eventually.
Ha allready tried that one before.

[k-roy]

I used an 8 foot pole on my CV nut. That may not work for him with the engine in though.

[NXRacer]

a good high powered impact will do the trick. but most home shops dont have a compressor or impact thats made for that kind of torque.

[Dibbs]

Originally posted by Justin86
Ha allready tried that one before.

Then you need to find the SOB that welded that bolt on and kick his ass! :lol

Seriously, I've seen flange bolts with 20 years worth of rust and heat be removed this way. It that don't work, I'm all out of ideas.

[Justin86]

Originally posted by Dibbs
Then you need to find the SOB that welded that bolt on and kick his ass! :lol

Seriously, I've seen flange bolts with 20 years worth of rust and heat be removed this way. It that don't work, I'm all out of ideas.

I will kick their ass but they live some where is Washington. I have run out of options and getting a higher tourque impact and tunning the air compressor to put out more will cost way too much.
I don't what my impact is rated at since it is soooo old but it does have an adjuster where you can control the speed. If that will make a difference I don't know but I'm guessing that the impact is 200 tq or lower.

[Dibbs]

what PSI do you have your compressor set at?

[jagojon3]

Originally posted by Dibbs
If an impact wrench won't do the trick. The only step left is a torch. Heat up the bolt and apply the impact. Repeat if necessary. It will come off eventually.
Wouldn't you want to heat up the pulley, not the bolt? I would think that heating up the bolt would make it expand therefore making it harder to break free. If you heat up the area of the pulley surrounding the bolt, that should expand making it easier to break free.

[it's paid for]

S U C C E S S ! ! !

I DID IT - IT WORKED!!!


. . . obviously, I'm very happy at this point and I can't believe I've gotten this far . . . tomorrow the head's coming off!!!!!


. . . I sprayed the bolt with the release agent (the one others have suggested) . . . I used a short extension on the breaker bar (I guess that's what I bought - it's long) and I pressed down and . . . snap! . . . the bolt broke loose and it was done . . . I carefully removed the pulley by tapping with a hammer - I pulled on one side as I tapped gently on the other and reversed tapping the sides until, finally, it began coming off and the belt gear came off by hand . . . & blah, blah, blah . . .

. . . what a milestone . . . what a great feeling . . .

. . . one thing I learned about this job - don't use a 3/8" extension to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt . . . 1/2" is fine . . . 3/8" is bad news . . .


MEGA-THANKS for your support, recommendations and confidence inspiring comments!!! I couldn't have done it without you!!!


http://www.bloomyourbusiness.com/honda/crankshaft_pulley_removed_07.jpg

[Sabz5150]

Dude, I bloomed (split it open like a flower) a Craftsman socket and sheared a Craftsman extension in half trying to get that thing loose. As the Chilton says:

"This is one of the tightest bolts on the entire car..."

[NXRacer]

congrats! Its always nice to have a frustrating project finally give you a break.

[Justin86]

Yea of corse mine is still on and my tranny still dosen't work. I just wish I had money and could pay someone to do this shit. Well I set a new record at 80mins to pull my tranny, axles, supension, and everything that need to be removed.



Originally posted by Dibbs
what PSI do you have your compressor set at?
I have no clue the thing is as old as I'am. It dosen't have a gauge for what the out put PSI is just what the tank PSI is.

[it's paid for]

. . . this might sound incredibly stupid, but, I was going at it all wrong . . . you know, having the right tools makes the job an entirely different venture . . . so much easier . . . tools, tools, tools . . . I want more tools . . . I can do ANYTHING with tools . . . tools are so very cool . . .

. . . I was going to remove my head tonight (couldn't wait until Wednesday) . . . I got everything undone (I think) . . . but I don't have a 12 point 10mm socket to undo the head bolts . . . I went to two auto parts stores just before they closed tonight and the only store that had one was part of a 20 piece set of metric sockets . . . the set cost $20 . . . I left it on the shelf . . . don't know what I'm going to do . . . hmmmm . . . tools . . . I can put the closed end of my 10mm wrench on the head bolt end but I can't turn it much, if any because the top of the bolt is down inside the side of the cylinder head . . . DANG . . . I wanna do it NOW!!!

. . . I must have a 10mm 12 point socket . . . too bad the Snap On tools dude doesn't live next door . . . what's the chance WalMart will have a decent 12 point 10mm socket? I'll take 1/4 or 3/8 . . . prefer 3/8", of course . . . Home Depot, perhaps?

. . . guess I'll have to go to Rome tomorrow (~20 miles) . . . that's the closest town that'll probably have it . . . then, I'll have to go back to Rome again to drop off my head . . . I have to have the head finished & put back together very soon . . . I might have to start work on the 15th of December . . . geeze, I'd love to be able to replace the oil pan gasket . . . it's nasty down there . . . ichhhh!!!

. . . besides a timing belt, head gasket set, tune up kit, new oil & filter & radiator coolant, what else am I going to need? Should I get a new water pump too?l

. . . my lower timing belt cover is toast . . . I'll need a "crankcase flywheel timing mark hole plug" (?) . . . a new gasket for my carburetor . . . because this stuff is either damaged or missing . . .

Thanks a bunch,

IPF

[Justin86]

Shit just sound like you are getting started for tools, same here but my dad has everything. Right now I'm looking into getting some of those boexed end ratched wrenches, with the swivel box end. Yea it is a $100 set for the metrics.

[it's paid for]

. . . just compare those to anything at Snap-On tools and it'll seem dirt cheap . . .

. . . I think a metric socket set at Snapon.com costs like $1,400 or something crazy like that . . . I'm sure they're great tools . . . but geezeo-moleezo . . . $1,400??? Gimmie a break.

Anyone know where I can get a 12 point 10mm socket? At 10:30 p.m.?

Thanks,

IPF

[Justin86]

Walmart usally has some cheap ass little tool kits.

A good palce to get tools are yard and estate sales. My friend has probably $1,000 of snap-on and craftsman tools he got for about $200 and a nice roll around tool box at estate sales.

[danronian]

For tools, craftsman all the way. They have complete socket sets for about $99 since it is around x-mas. I bought myself a set last year and I can't think of a better car related investment. I have never rounded off a bolt, or cracked a craftsman socket, I even use the standard set with my 250lb impact wrench to remove lugs. I know it says they can shatter, but I just turn my head before I push the button. But never buy a craftsman air compressor, they suck majorly, get a cheaper one from walmart.

[Justin86]

Well thanks for the advice. :)

[DBMaster]

You mention tapping on the crank pulley with a hammer to remove it. The last time I did my timing belt I was doing the same thing - gently, I thought. CRACK! I broke a chunk off the pulley - $141 at the Honda dealer cause I was in a bind at that point. So much for saving much money on that job.

I ended up finally using my sterring wheel puller to remove the pulley. I learned my lesson.

[rocky2]

I have replaced timing belts on 2 hondas and both pully bolts were tough to remove. But a torch and a Ingersal Rand 1/2 air gun worked. I believe Honda uses "locktite" at factory.

[Vinny]

Originally posted by it's paid for
. . . just compare those to anything at Snap-On tools and it'll seem dirt cheap . . .

. . . I think a metric socket set at Snapon.com costs like $1,400 or something crazy like that . . . I'm sure they're great tools . . . but geezeo-moleezo . . . $1,400??? Gimmie a break.


Nope they are like 275, Thats what they were last time I bought a set. I have 6 complete 3/8" sets I think, full set of 12 pt & 6pt SAE deep, 6 & 12 pt SAE shallows, and a full set of deep and shallow metric sockets. Not to mention my 1/4 and 1/2" crap and incomplete sets I have that I just tossed in the bottom drawer of my rollaway. I've got mad money tied up in tools. Yeah snap-on is expensive but when you work in a job where tools are your life and you're there all day 6 and 7 days a week its worth it to have someone just bring you your tools rather than getting off work and wandering around Sears covered in grease and shit putting up with sales people who are lucky if they can even spell tool. Plus their specialty tools KICK ASS

[Dibbs]

Originally posted by Vinny
their specialty tools KICK ASS


:werd:

Yeah! Like Stud Extractors!

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/9/web/405000-405999/405026_26.jpg

[POS carb]

don't use 3/8 on the crank pully, I broke the head off of a craftsman extension like that

[Justin86]

Originally posted by POS carb
don't use 3/8 on the crank pully, I broke the head off of a craftsman extension like that

Shit I didthat to a 1/2" drive socket wrench.

[DBMaster]

You mention Loctite. The shop manual says to put engine oil on the bolt threads - I guess to prevent seizing.

I was told by a Honda shop to use the blue version of Loctite. They said it would "seal" the threads and that the blue stuff is specifically made to prevent seizing.

I hope I am not sorry the next time I have to remove it.

Both times I did the timing belt I tipped a grease monkey $5 at a local shop to break it loose with an air impact gun. 1-2-3, tighten it by hand, and drive the car home to change the T-belt.

[Johnny O]

The crank pulley bolt is tough some times,easy way to remove that bolt is to remove the starter and stick a big screwdriver inbetween the pressure plate and flywheel and than use the breaker bar.

[DBMaster]

I think my way is by far the easiest!

:)

[Dibbs]

Mike, about the blue loctite...There are different kinds of loctite brand products. They make both anti-seize compounds and threadlockers among other products (they own permatex too). The blue loctite you speak of is a medium grade threadlocker. It is considered removeable and i believe is oil resistant as well. I think all loctite threadlockers have some anti-seize properties as well. You should be able to remove the bolt when the time comes.

[rocky2]

I just want people that do timing belts themselves its not them. The bolt is SUPER! TIGHT!

Be prepared to deal with it.


Honda must use a form of locktite....."permanent"


BE ADVISED

[Justin86]

Yea there is other brands, just make sure it says bolt anti seize. I put this stuff on my wheel studs.