quarter panel replacement

[Not like a rock]

I've got a bunch of rust and some bad dents on my back end. I don't want 100 lbs of bondo that's just going to rust again so I'm thinking about getting the quarter panels replaced.

I did a search and have a question: What's the diff between quarter panel skins and quarter panel rear sections?

Has anyone had these replaced recently? If you did, what did you pay and are there any manufacturers that you recomend?

Just want some ammo for when I go to the body-shop.

Thanks.

[NXRacer]

its gonna take a lot to replace back quarter panel sections because you cant just unbold the quarter panel like you can with the fronts. It has to be cut out and replaced. Nobody here could give you a good estimate. You'll have to take it to a body shop and get them to look at it. I'd say it'll cost you at LEAST $500 to start with.

[MrBen]

Bondo will last if it is done right. That means having nothing but bare metal surface before putting bondo on. That means absolutely no rust. That means absolutely no moisture. Apply a good rust-killing/preventative primer first. If you don't want ripples, block sand the bondo once you have applied several thin layers of it, sanding in between layers. Once you have reached your final layer and sanded it with very very fine sandpaper, primer it. Then paint it. Primer is NOT going to prevent moisture from getting to the bondo. This is usually the reason bondo jobs don't last, because people primer it and think "Oh I'll paint it later". After the paint has dried, apply clearcoat.

Following this process, bondo should last a while. While it is not as good as metal, it is a good way to go if you don't have the cash.

[Dibbs]

Also, there is Polyurethane body filler out now that is less prone to cracking due to impact and thermal expansion/contraction. I'm anxious to try some and see how it works on my '39 coupe. I've heard nothing but rave reviews about the stuff. Just follow Ghetto's directions and you should be pretty sucessful.

[gmech]

"I've got a bunch of rust and some bad dents on my back end. I don't want 100 lbs of bondo that's just going to rust again so I'm thinking about getting the quarter panels replaced."

Body filler wasn't designed for filling large voids. For that I recommend replacing the entire panel, especially in and around structurural areas. However, if repairing a non-structural cosmetic area, suggest using fiberglass/mat combination.

"I did a search and have a question: What's the diff between quarter panel skins and quarter panel rear sections?"

Skins are thin sheetmetal pieces that are typically used over existing damaged panels and as such, usually contain little or no reinforcement steel whereas replacement panel "sections" are used when replacing damaged areas and therefore have reinforcement steel added for strength.

"Has anyone had these replaced recently? If you did, what did you pay"

I've performed countless rust repairs on various makes and models and here to tell you that costs vary considerably depending on the severity of damage and method of restoration.

"and are there any manufacturers that you recomend?"

Yes, check out the sheetmetal repair skins and panels at Mill Supply Inc. (http://www.rustrepair.com) .

If having a local body shop do the work, ask for an hourly labor rate and then follow up with a WRITTEN T&M (time and material) quote from at least two reputable shops. This way you can compare apples to apples. However, since costs don't always equate to quality, you might want to ask for a list of references. For smaller repairs, you should be able to do most of the work yourself.

[hondamanlxi]

i've never seen someones first post be so valuable!!! welcome aboard!

[shepherd79]

insted of replacing the hole rear quater panel, just cut out the rusty part and replace it with new metal. good body shop should be able to do that. it would be cheaper too.

[Dibbs]

Originally posted by hondamanlxi
i've never seen someones first post be so valuable!!! welcome aboard!

:werd:

Welcome aboard!
Why don't you introduce yourself in the Newbie Introductions.

[stgardner]

A bozo in a big 4-wheeler crunched the right rear quarter panel of my '88 hatch in a parking lot about 4 years ago. Fortunately, the damage was just below the window and didn't catch any of the structural support underneath. I had the local Honda dealer do the body work and paint. They replaced the skin from the right door to the tailights and almost to the roof. The complete job was $1900, but the other guy's insurance covered it.

While they had most of the interior removed (because of the welding) I had them run a new wiring harness in the hatch ($300). The original harness had some broken wires due to the repeated opening and closing of the hatch. I had "fixed" it, but I knew it wouldn't last.

My advice to you is find another car that doesn't have rust. Use your current car as a parts car, strip it, then junk it. I lived in Cleveland, Ohio for many years. In my experience, once you can see rust, it's much worse underneath in places you can't get at.

Good luck

[shane_lxi]

My car got smashed, and the quarter panel was just completely destroyed the quarter panel.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-10/434051/wreck4.jpg
Well, just that alone was enough to total out my '88 LXi, so it was atleast $1500 worth of damage, if it was professionally done. Unless it is really cheap in your area...

[Neuspeed87lx]

a friend of mine cut off his 1/4 panel on his 3g and welded on a new one ..... i thought it was gona come out aweful .... but it came out really good .... besides not matching it was fine ....

[gmech]

Originally posted by shane_lxi
My car got smashed, and the quarter panel was just completely destroyed the quarter panel.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-10/434051/wreck4.jpg
Well, just that alone was enough to total out my '88 LXi, so it was atleast $1500 worth of damage, if it was professionally done. Unless it is really cheap in your area...

shane, sorry to here 'bout your car getting smashed. that pic is hurendous. glad nody waz hurt.

good luck getting things fixed bro.

[shane_lxi]

Yeah it is pretty bad. I was in my friend's house when we heard the boom of the old bitch hitting it. Too bad she didn't get hurt. I'm not fixing it by the way, I am going to buy kicker1_solo's 3g, it's the exact same one, but a whole lot better! :)

WELCOME TO THE SITE!!!!!

The people here will be very good to you, as long as you keep on adding input like you just did that is! Just remember, the search bar is your friend!! I cannot stress this enough, even though it is not working right now... :(

[Not like a rock]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm really debating over selling this car and getting another accord. Despite having rust, this one is also auto, which I'm not down with, but it does have a new engine and I now there's nothing else wrong with it. Being halfway up Canada, there aren't many in good condition, so I'll have to make a special trip for a new car.

What I really want is to get an EX-i and swap some SE-i components (like brakes) over. EX-i + SE-i = SEX-i

[kicker1_solo]

Originally posted by shepherd79
insted of replacing the hole rear quater panel, just cut out the rusty part and replace it with new metal. good body shop should be able to do that. it would be cheaper too. not a whole lot cheaper, I've done this a few times and it's a lot of hours, some shops will charge you $45 an hour, sometimes up to $60 an hour for this kind of work. But yeah, depending on the amount of rust and corrosion I'd check on replacing certain parts instead of the whole rear quarter. Like gmech suggested, a fiberglass/mat combo could possibly be the way to go.