Tie-rod end

[BMS]

So, I replaced my tie-rod end on the passenger side today. It was so much easier than I expected it to be.

Anyway, I have a problem with that wheel. It makes a weird rumbly-sound when I go over rough road, and I thought that it would either be the tie-rod or the ball joint(s). Since the tie-rod in brand new as of 8 hours ago, it has to be the ball joint. So...the book gets real confusing when it says how to replace it.

Since search doesn't work, how do I do it, and how hard is it. I have a general idea, but anyone who has actually done it and can point out shortcuts should comment. Thanks.

[shepherd79]

it is very easy to replace it. it shouldn't take you more than 2 hours if you read a book first.

[Mystic1]

I have been waiting ever sience the forum went down to ask almost the same thing. You say that the tierods where easy; define easy:

(easy for a person with general mechanical knoledge and armed with a Chilton(me), or easy for a retired Honda certifed tech).

I ask because yesterday when I went in for an alignment I was told that my tierods and balljoints all around had to be replaced before the alignment could be done.

I can't afford to have them do it at $375 for parts, labor, and alignment (is this even a fair price?), and then even think about the $500+ in tires I need too. Any advice on either would be great.

[Vinny]

Easy will depend on your mechanical skill level and what tools you have. Honestly its not hard at all. I'd download the honda factory service manual here (http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html) and compare it with the Chilton's before you get started. The only special tool you may need is a ball joint remover to take the tie rod off the steering knuckle

[Mystic1]

Well, Ive been doing minor wrenching for about 10 years and my dad wants to help. He cut his teeth wrenching on his backstreet drag cars in the 60's and all the POS's hes had once he 'setteled down' so I think between us the Chiltons and what you showed me we should be fine.

[Dibbs]

BMS, to answer your questions as to whether you need ball joints or not:

Grab the top and bottom sides of the tire. Try to see if the tire has slack when you try to wiggle it holding the top and bottom sides. If it move in or out while trying this, then you need new ball joints. The same thing can be done to check tie rod ends by holding the right and left sides of the tires and repeating the process.

[88LXi/87CRXSi]

This past fall, after my left rear upper ball joint seperated on me, I replaced both rear upper, left front lower, both front upper ball joints, both outer tie rod ends, left front wheel bearing, and last week, new front tires. Needless to say I'm pleased with the results! :D Along with the manuals there's an excellent Howto that helped alot:
How to replace lower balljoint ? (http://209.151.81.66/showthread.php?threadid=15247)
Now this is gonna sound stupid, but does this make any sense to any of you? Since the toe-in on our cars is 0 +/- 3mm (0.118") This means the distance between the front of the two tires and the rear of the tires are the same. I read many, many years ago in an article on alignment in Hot Rod magazine that all you do is tape a straight edge to each tire, low enough so that you can stretch a tape measure from one tire to the other. Measure the distance in front and rear, and adjust the tie rod(s) till distances are equal. If the steering wheel isn't perfectly centered, you can adjust one tie rod in, and the other out till it's right, or pull the steering wheel off and recenter it.
I did this on my CRX and then had aligned when I got new tires. I asked them to center my wheel, and looking at before and after printout, I don't think they did a thing, except maybe nudge the car abit. They sure as hell didn't center the wheel! So being the cheap ass that I am, and not wanting to waste any money on those ripoffs, that's how I aligned my accord! Stupid right? :rolleyes:

[Mystic1]

Well, I just did a price check on the tie rods and ball joints I need and I found that It is cheaper by about $20 per ball joint to have the shop do it all them selves rather then be just buying them myself.

So I guess you can figure out what I'm going to be doing. I guess I get to keep my hands clean on this one

[Mystic1]

Just an after thought. Its a sad thing when you can't fix something that simple cheaper then a shop with a $50 per hour labor rate.

[nswst8]

No way that a shop can beat DIY on the replacement of balljoints & tie rods unless you know the guys, tools are rentable from any auto parts store. But I usally buy the tools nessary for the job b/c you will be using the same tools over especially if you have a friend who needs the same thing done for a quick $50
NSWST8

[Mystic1]

No way that a shop can beat DIY on the replacement of balljoints & tie rods unless you know the guys, tools are rentable from any auto parts store. But I usally buy the tools nessary for the job b/c you will be using the same tools over especially if you have a friend who needs the same thing done for a quick $50
NSWST8
Thats what I thought but its the truth. I asked ever shop in town and this was the cheapest. I also had a friend that gets a major discount threw a parts shop and they still couldn't beat the price. Oh well, its done now. No time to worry about it now

[nswst8]

Well my friend, if you can get it done cheaper than DIY. I did have a shop do the half shafts on my LXi, it wasn't cheaper but it would have only saved me $30 so I let the shop, and they did use a pickle fork and trashed the Balljoint boots. Whats done is done. Happy New Year.
NSWST8