View Full Version : Jacked Up Idle After Vac Line Non-Removal
SteveDX89
12-26-2003, 07:31 PM
Well, I got started on removing the vac lines on the carb today. I was running out of daylight and still didn't have the carb out. It was getting caught on some hard lines. Anyway, I put it all back together and hooked the lines back up as best as I could remember. Now the car won't idle below 3000 rpm. I'm thinking something with the throttle cable got messed up but I'm not sure. Anyone have any ideas?
shepherd79
12-26-2003, 08:30 PM
wait a minute........ you were in the middle of the project and you decided to go back to stock setup? well i would say it was stupid thing to do.
it is should only take you about one may be two hours to remove the carb and remove vacuum lines. i bet you were close getting it done.
don't be scared to do it. just do it.
if you need help, you can reach me on AIM, but i won't be home till saturday evening.
A20A1
12-27-2003, 11:37 AM
you probably forgot one vacuum line... maybe one of the air bleeds on the air box or something.
SteveDX89
12-27-2003, 02:27 PM
Ok, I went ahead and removed the vac lines. I kept the choke and vacuum secondary since I'm in a cold weather enviromnet. I hooked the vac lines I still need and plugged all the others. The car is still idling at 3K. I've turned the black knob on the back of the carb out but I don't want to keep turning it and have it fall off. Is there any other way to adjust the idle?
P|eszczoH
12-27-2003, 03:08 PM
I still need and plugged all the others. The car is still idling at 3K. I've turned the black knob on the back of the carb out but I don't want to keep turning it and have it fall off. Is there any other way to adjust the idle?
Hi, your car looks like it's runing with choke on. did you push accel pedal ?
it should go off. I ve got bigger problem, my choke is running fine if I have my cluth pedal down to the metal, if I take my leg of it, its turning on and off
rising up to 3500rpm and off, and sometimes engien dies.
To set up this carb properly it harder than i thought, read the manual from pauldesign.ru, its all there... there are some screws that You should not touch. I did it, and now I dont know how to set up properly, and my car is running real bad on gas, thanks to LPG installation i can drive it normal.
I really do not know what is wrong, and I think that many car specialist go crazy looking at those vacum lines :-))))
good luck,
thry to put your pedal to the metal after start,
your choke should go off.
A20A1
12-30-2003, 11:07 AM
On the front left side of the carb is the idle control diaphragm adjustment screw... if the diaphragm still has vacuum then it won't be pushing constantly on the throttle linkage, but it still might need some adjustment... I think however that I showed the idle vacuum as removed... if you removed the vacuum line to the diaphragm then you need to unscrew the idle adjustment screw all the way out (turn counterclockwise) so it no longer puts pressure on the throttle linkage, this way you can adjust the idle properly by using the throttle stop screw at the back of the carb.
Right now all you are doing is turning the screw at the back of the carb, but the screw on the front holds the throttle open.
P|eszczoH
12-30-2003, 02:52 PM
Hi A20A1 :-)
maybe U have a recipe to set up this carb from start to an end.
I've got this problem with a choke, right now it truns on for let say 1 minute,
running on a 1300 rpm not a 3000 like it should, and... :-) it goes crazy from time to time, like on and off than on and off again, until I step on it.
It is better than it was.... let say it was like 3000 rpm for 20 minutes :-))))
but the thruth is that i think I should set up the carb from start to a far end.
I know You can say f*** vacum pump and hoses, especially that they dont look for pollution norms but its to big improvement for me right now. :-)
any way, I like Your Car, and some improvements. :-)
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