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View Full Version : thermovalve A Test??



geofstan
01-03-2004, 02:26 PM
is there anyway I can test my thermovalve A

locknload68
01-03-2004, 04:05 PM
When the car is fully warmed up, you can test it by taking line 18 and 19 off the thermovalve and connecting them together.

If the idle speed goes down after connecting them then the thermovalve is faulty. If the speed does not go down, look for a vacuum leak in line 18 or 19 and check the choke opener.

geofstan
01-04-2004, 04:57 PM
Tried what you said ,and when I tried to pull of the hose the damn valve nozzle came with it lol :o) so I guess I have to replace it anyway oops!!!!

huntersdl
04-07-2014, 06:00 PM
What does this test mean? putting ends of hose 18 and 19 end to end into each other and see what happens? how does that test the valve? or am i misinterpreting

g.frost
04-07-2014, 06:33 PM
This is a valid test for thermovalve A. Study the vac diagram: By unhooking 18 and 19, plugging them together, you are eliminating thermovalve A from the vacuum circuit. The other line on thermo A is 17, the 'vent line' or leak back line.
If thermovalve A is working correctly when the engine is warmed up, it will connect 18 & 19 together and isolate them from line 17, just as the test describes you to do. Locknload68 is a good technician and knows what he's talking about there: good advice. Though it's not how the manual tells you to check it,,.. it is a simple procedure that will work.

huntersdl
04-08-2014, 01:53 PM
do you mean literally like connecting the ends of each hose as if they were one piece.. end to end?

huntersdl
04-08-2014, 02:02 PM
Also.. how do we test thermo B? I might as well test them all. As far as the fast idle unloader.. can i manually pull the rod connecting the choke to reduce it? If i determine the unloader isnt mechanically workign cant we just permanently have it set where it wont idle high? I dont mind that... heck i dont even know if NC does emissions testing on those models anymore.. i vaguely remember an exemption year like 90 or something

g.frost
04-09-2014, 09:13 AM
I don't how know many ways to say the same thing.
The choke puller arm and fast idle unloader arm are 2 different things. It's getting warmer now so you can get out the bailing wire & carefully figure a way to wire the unloader open. This will make it harder to start when cold.

If you get the vacuum tester, fully warm up the engine, remove line 18 from the choke opener, and pump this line down,
What do you get? (this is a good first test for your problem; a good place to start.)

TNTumbler
04-10-2014, 09:27 PM
G.Frost is right! By putting 18 and 19 together my idle never changed, Thermovalve B is the same sort of test. So just for the record follow the way he said to test it.