Car stalled on highway

[danronian]

I was driving down rt100 and all of the sudden the rpms drop to zero. Since my accord is a stick I really don't understand how this could happen considering I wasn't depressing the clutch pedal. I then realize the car has also stalled and I then try to get to the shoulder of the road. Once I get there I put it into third and it starts. But when I got to the shoulder every light on the dashboard lit up at once (even the door and trunk lights). The car ran fine afterwards and after it started running again but this really pisses me off that it had to happen the day before the spring semester of college starts (40 minutes each way).

So I thought about it and I believe there must be an electric or ECU problem since there is no way the engine could have been at 0 rpm while in fifth gear going about 50mph. It also doesnt make sense to my why all of the lights on the dash lit up at once. I checked the ECU for codes and nothing. Today I will take off the battery negative to reset the ECU just in case that will help it out. I am suspecting either an electric connection is faulty or something is wrong with the ECU. ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Things that have been replaced within the last year and a half (that might rule out some possibilities): HU, spark plugs, plug wires, distributer, air cleaner. I have also cleaned the throttlle body and PCV valve, installed fog lights, and a 200watt amp. The car's battery is the one that came in it when I bought it but it has never died on me (I keep a spare charged battery in the car just in case though.). I have cleaned the grounds in the engine bay, and regularly use injector cleaner and fuel line antifreeze (approx. monthly). The coolant was flushed and changed about 6 months ago and the car burns no oil and leaks no coolant (the air was also bled out of the system).

PLEASE HELP!

[k-roy]

It could be the main relay. There is a post on fixing it in the howto section. Appearently it is a common thing to go out on older Honda's. I say check that along with your ignitor and coil as well. The reasons why your rpms droped is because the car stalled and the coil (witch the tach goes off of) was not firing. The speedo still worked because it is a mechanical gauge whereas the tach is digital.

[danronian]

Okay, now I understand. I was thinking the coil too, since it is original. The car does have some start then stall problems when it is cold. I have an extra main relay from the j/y but I just need to know how to solder (and need an iron and the materials to do so). How much are they from the dealer?

[Blkblurr]

More than likely you lost all power when this happened. The clue is all the lights on the dash came on just like they do when you first turn the ignition on. This sounds like a main breaker or ignition relay or even the ignition switch. I don't thinks it has any thing to do with your coil. Could be a bad ground as well.

[night]

ignition pod on the back of the cylinder or maybe the main relay

[k-roy]

All those are good suggestions. I hate tracking down electrical problems.

[smufguy]

All those are good suggestions. I hate tracking down electrical problems.

Cause they are more than likey to be impossible and they are time consuming. This is why i Hate electrical shit.

And about the Main relay. Its nothing but just resoldering the solders on the back of the relay for fixing hairline cracks. but it also could be an alternator connected problem where an incrreased surge of current can mess thins up.

[danronian]

Would a main relay from a 91 crx work as a replacement? My friend bought one new a while back and then the car died or something. So he has the new part but I don't know if it will work. I showed him mine and he said it looks the same but with different numbers on the outside.

Do the ignition switches often go in 3gs? If not, I'll just stop by the j/y and pick a few up. But, I could always go to the dealer tomorrow and get a new one if they often break. It didn't do it to me for the hour or so I have driven that car after it died on me, but it still scares me that it will happen again.

I always considered myself lucky to have no electric problems with my accord, but I guess all luck must end.

[danronian]

More than likely you lost all power when this happened. The clue is all the lights on the dash came on just like they do when you first turn the ignition on. This sounds like a main breaker or ignition relay or even the ignition switch. I don't thinks it has any thing to do with your coil. Could be a bad ground as well.

Actually I only lost the engine power. Because the radio and lights were still on. All the dash lights went about thirty seconds after the engine shut off. Yeah, the coil is ruled out. Because when they go they generally don't work at all, not intermittently.

[nswst8]

I'd pick up a few main relays from the junkyard, since its a mfg defect in the main relay buying a new one is close to $50, I bought one new, but I didn't know that it was the sodering connections, so I have one on stand by.
My shop instructor a former Master mechanic for Honda says that our rides are nortorious for the main relay to go out.
Hope this helps. LOL
NSWSt8 :cheers:

[RustyHo88]

It might also be the wire that goes from your ignition coil to your distributor. That happened to me awhile ago; popped right out.

[Blkblurr]

I think it is your ignition switch. There are several contacts on the switch and the one that provides power to your ignition and other things on your car is worn. I have not looked at a schematic on this part of the car but there may be a relay that is controlled by your ignition switch. could be either one

[Leviathant]

dan,
if I recall correctly, i was having similar problems (and attempts at fixes) as you were a few months/weeks back. i had my ignition cylinder replaced and the car's run fine ever since. It must be cheap cuz my pal at the Honda dealership didn't charge me for it. (Mind you, he's the one who sold me this sorry car, which is really a nice car with a need for TLC). Considering you had all the same problems as I had, I would bet some good cash that it's your ignition switch.

[danronian]

I should try that. I'll have to see how hard it is to put in and how much it is though. Thanks.

[ISingBass]

My car was doing the same thing--it has a worn ignition switch. I opened the switch up and sprayed contact cleaner on the contacts and then spread some dielectric "connector protector" grease on them. That was six months ago and it started doing it again. Just did the same process but with more grease and it works fine again. A new ignition switch at the parts store cost $87 so the little extra work is worth it to me right now. :D

There was some green build-up around the contacts when I took it apart this time--any recommendation on a better grease to use?