PDA

View Full Version : Anyone ever changed an ignition switch?



Coitis1
01-21-2004, 12:05 PM
Here's the dealio; when i try to start my car, i get that clicking sound like the battery is dead, and after numerous tries, it will start. I had my charging system and battery checked out and they're all good, the guy suggested that it was my ignition switch. I searched the board and came up w/ threads from people who had similar problems, and it seemed that they all concluded it was the ignition switch. I just want to know what its gonna take to change the switch myself.

Also, i was wondering what it takes to change out the auto shifter switch, ya know, the one that tells the car if it is in park. Sometimes when i shift to park, the light on the dash will not come on until i jiggle the shifter. While its suspended between gears, the car will idle at about 1k, then rev up to about 1.5k, then drop back down to 1k, all in like 1 sec., repeatedly until the car recognizes its in park. Its wierd; kinda hard to explain too. thanks guys

Cyric_accord
01-21-2004, 12:21 PM
I can't help you on the ignition switch, never had that problem.

On your tranny problem, you need to replace the Stop Lamp Switch, which tell the Shift Interlock Selonoid that your transmission is in park. I haven't replaced mine personally, but it was a common problem with 3rd and 4th gen accords.

Vinny
01-21-2004, 12:27 PM
you sure its not a clicking sound like your starters going out, not engaging. If you hear a clicking more than likely the solenoid is engaging so I don't know if it would be a ignition switch. Sounds like a starter to me

Coitis1
01-21-2004, 12:44 PM
starter, huh? that douche at autozone said it was my ignition switch, thank god i have these boards to come to. lol, i'm just kidding, the guy was pretty cool. intersesting info though, anyone have anything else to add to the stew?

Blkblurr
01-21-2004, 12:52 PM
When you hear the clicking sound do your lights dim? Headlights or dashlights?

Bryan
01-21-2004, 01:35 PM
Blkblurr are you getting at that it could be the battery? Cause he said he had it tested and it's all good.

89AccordLvr
01-21-2004, 02:48 PM
i have that same problem occuring right now so what is the difference between an ignition switch and a starter gone bad

also where are they located and is there a way to tell which one has gone bad or is it to hard to fix by urself

'89AccordLX(Rus)
01-21-2004, 02:49 PM
The ignition switch has two general parts to it. The mechanical lock cylinder rarely wears out and generally doesn't need replacement. The electrical switch part does eventually wear out and malfunctions. To replace it you would need to take off the plastic steering column covers. Then you should be able to locate the switch and remove the electrical component. Unplug it under the dash, and then replace with a new switch(or a junk yard switch although new is better).

Hope this helps.

Blkblurr
01-21-2004, 03:12 PM
What I'm getting at is it could be a loose or bad battery cable that shows up only when you draw a lot of current like when you start your car. It acks like a dead battery until the heavy load is removed from the battery. Small currents can pass through a bad battery cable but not heavy ones.

soljaboy2000
01-21-2004, 03:18 PM
whats the differnece between an igntion switch, ignition coil, and starter? how can you tell which one is gone bad if car takes a while to start?

89AccordLvr
01-21-2004, 03:20 PM
ditto to that question i want to kno

'89AccordLX(Rus)
01-21-2004, 03:35 PM
whats the differnece between an igntion switch, ignition coil, and starter? how can you tell which one is gone bad if car takes a while to start?

Possible symptoms:

ignition switch malfunction: car refuses to react to the key positions. Doesn't engage the starter at all (listen at the starter for this que) or engages the starter sporadically. Testing: use a wiring diagram of the ignition switch wire harness and test the distribution of electrical current with a voltmeter in various key positions.

ignition coil: engine turns over and may start or refuses to run altogether. Engine runs rough or loses power due to weak or lacking spark. Testing: use a multimeter to measure the resistance between the terminals as outlined in the shop manual or other repair manual.

starter: If the starter is bad, there will be current sent to the starter/solenoid but the starter will not engage or turn over the engine. You would generally need a volt meter to tell if the starter is getting current.


BTW, if you don't have the electronic shop manual yet, you can get it at http://www.pauldesign.ru

It contains answers to just about any question or issue with the car.

Hope this helps.

Blkblurr
01-21-2004, 03:42 PM
The ignition switch is a set of contacts that are turned on when you rotate your key. They turn on differnt circuits depending on what position you have rotated your key. Once you turn it all the way you engergize the starter relay or some call it the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid allows high current to go to the starter motor from the battery to rotate your engine. The ignition coil is what creates the spark for your spark plugs. If the starter is going bad it usually will not turn at all or makes a grinding sound. Some times it works intermittently when turning the ignition switch to the start position. If the ignition switch is going bad it will sometimes cause your engine to stop suddenly because one of those contacts it has is failing and power to your ignition coil is cut off. You can have several symtoms at the same time though. If your ignition coil goes bad you will not get any spark while cranking the engine and all your accessories will work in the car when you rotate your ignition switch. If your battery is bad then nothing works for long at all. If you have a loose or bad battery cable then the radio may work unless you have a powerful sound system and maybe the interior lights but not the starter. I hope this helps

nswst8
01-21-2004, 03:45 PM
I had to change mine when I first bought the car back in 94, The part was $53 back then. Its an easy swap less than 30 minutes even when I didn't have a book. when you get the switch you'll see what I mean. You'll need to use a quarter in drive to get at the ignition bolts I believe 8mm.
hope this helps. LOL
NSWST8 :cheers:

89AccordLvr
01-21-2004, 04:06 PM
ok i just found out somethin and mayb this can help me and yall find out whats wrong... i just tried starting the car but this time a press the gas pedal all the way down and it started perfectly.... tried it w/o press the gas pedal and i had to turn the key alot of time to get it started... is pressing the gas pedal a bad thing to do to start it? and also do yall kno why my car dont start now regularly w/o the gas pedal pressing or is it still probably the starter or ignition

DBMaster
01-21-2004, 05:37 PM
I only paid $35 for mine from a Honda dealer in Oklahoma on the Fast Net parts network. I am still not sure if it was really bad because the problem eventually resurfaced as the main relay. Still, it wasn't very hard to replace and not too expensive.

89AccordLvr
01-21-2004, 06:10 PM
u paid $35 for what? a main relay

DBMaster
01-23-2004, 09:54 PM
The main relay cost me $37 from Majestic Honda and I replaced it several years AFTER I replaced the ignition switch (which might not have been bad in the first place). The switch cost me around $35.