IT RUNS!!!!! IT RUNS!!!!! I Can't Believe It!!!

[it's paid for]

Hey everyone - it actually runs . . . got the Weber on, battery was dead so I borrowed my wife's battery . . . tried it the first time and floored it just sputtered . . . when I took a piece of hose and stuck the butterfly's open at the top it ran great . . . too great . . . at 3000 rpm I shut it down . . . this cool vapor comes out of the top of the carb . . .

. . . I'm guessing I need to hook up the choke with the electrical connection . . . I've tried to do this right but it's not working . . . also, I'm a bit unsure about the cable adjustment . . . any suggestions are most appreciated . . .

. . . it runs!

. . . that's so AMAZINGLY COOL!!!!

Thanks,

IPF

[Rendon LX-i]

want a cookie for that.haha

[k-roy]

Excelent. Now you can never go to a mechanic again :cheers:

[PhydeauX]

The choke just needs a switched 12v source. The positive wire from the coil is a good enough canidate. It takes it a few minutes of running before it will open depending on the ambient temp. The vapor could just be machining oil and anti-corrosion agents that were sprayed on the carb durring manufacturin that are burning off. The cable should be adjusted to the throttle is fully closed when the pedal is up and fully open when the pedal is to the floor. Make sure it travels fully since the secondary doesn't open untill the last 3rd of the stroke. You'll loose alot of power if it doesn't come fully to rest aginst the stop. Adjusting it to fully close is easy enouhg, its just like adjustin breakes on a bike. To get it to fully open you need to move it closer to the pivot point. If I remember right it was able to get it to fully open with one of hte hole that was predrilled in the linkages. On the 85 I had to drill a new hole.

andy

[it's paid for]

. . . okay . . . I need help . . . I'm going to check the ignition timing again . . . but I'm still lost on getting the connection from the ignition coil to the choke . . . I have like seven wires coming out of the ignition coil . . . and . . . of course, I have no idea which one is supposed to be the positive wire . . . am I supposed to cut each one and then connect it to the choke with the ignition switch activated . . . how is this supposed to work? the little flaps on top of the Weber open up?

Here's the deal - with the air filter off I can start & run the car holding the flaps open and with my hand, activating the throttle cable . . . the car sounds great when running above 3000 rpm, but it won't idle - not even close - and it won't start unless I'm holding the little top flaps open (aren't these choke-activated?) . . . I just have this really strong impression the ignition timing is off too . . . I think I can fix the ignition timing . . .

Help!

Thanks!

[k-roy]

Do you have a timing light? Because you need one.

Oh yea, welcome to the wide world of the aftermarket carb where metering rods and jets make all the differance. But thats for later.

The choke is easy as crap to run. Just find ANY wire under the hood that is 12V and turns off when the ignition switch is off. Tap into the wire and run it to the positive of the choke, then run a ground, thats It. Hell thats what I did on a Ford V8. I used the water temp sender for the 12V source.

[lightbulblxi]

cool. good job man.

[x3r0]

You can't just use the old wire that went tothe stock carb choke?

[k-roy]

You can't just use the old wire that went tothe stock carb choke?
Im not 100% sure but I know a lot of older Honda's had a manual choke.
Wiring up a electric one is simple, I did it in 5 minutes.

[PhydeauX]

It had an electric choke. I believe the wire in question is black with a yellow stripe, but I'm not sure. The coil should be marked with a + and -, hooking it up to the + terminal or splicing into any wire connected to it is fine.

andy

[NXRacer]

thats awesome man. Congrats!

[it's paid for]

You can't just use the old wire that went tothe stock carb choke?


. . . read reply below . . .



It had an electric choke. I believe the wire in question is black with a yellow stripe, but I'm not sure. The coil should be marked with a + and -, hooking it up to the + terminal or splicing into any wire connected to it is fine.

Yeah, the old one definintely had an electric choke . . . I made a splicer and tried using the old wires by putting one aligator clip on the tab of the choke and touching the other wires while the key was turned on & the dash panel lights were on but the car wasn't running . . . nothing - the flaps at the top of the carb never moved . . . weren't they supposed to?

So . . . to get a + wire from the coil, I guess I have to remove the rubber boot on the coil where the wire goes to the distributor . . . inside here will be the + & - indicators? I have some basic electrical experience, so getting a wire from that to the little tab outside the choke won't be a problem . . .

[hr]

. . . so . . . any advice on a timing light . . . can't I get one of these at WalMart . . . aren't they cheap? . . . my wife gave me $240 for tires yesterday . . . I'd like to save up and get 16" wheels and tires . . . opinions?

BTW - I'm planning on putting about 15 thousand miles on this car in the next four months - that should save me about $600 in gas over using the 4.3 V6 in the Chevy van . . .

Again - I can't tell you guys how much I appreciate all you've done . . .

THANKS!!!

[PhydeauX]

The flaps will take a while to move. It depends on the temp outside. The flap shouldn't be open fully untill the motor is warmed up. When you go to start the car the flap should be fully closed. Once its started it should open slighly. If you give it some gas it should open a tad more and then stay there untill the motor is warmed up. The best way to test if you're using the right wire is going to be with a testlight or meter.

andy

[k-roy]

Timing lights can be cheap. I think Wal-Mart should have something.
If no go to any parts store or Sears, you can find one in the $40 and under range.
There are two ways a timing light hooks up. One you plug the spark plug wire from cylinder#1 and connect it to the gun and then hook a wire from the gun to the spark plug. Avoid this kind if you can. The other type is a clip-on inductive style and it has a clip that goes around the spark plug wire, much safer and a little easier.

[1988starter]

I got a nice metal housed tough as nails one for 50.

[it's paid for]

. . . okay, I'll get the type of timing light that has induction connections (?) . . . but what about a voltage meter . . . something at Radio Shack that measures 12 volts . . . something basic will do right - any suggestions?

Thanks,

IPF

[NXRacer]

yeah, you can get pretty cheap volt meters that work well. Radio Shack should have what you need.

[Justin86]

Damn I just though you were having head work done to it, but you went all out! :)

[1988starter]

I would at least go with a meter with a digital display they are so damn handy for every thing. I had a nice one I got from sears before it was stolen. bah BTW don't go to radio shack they are mad over priced.

[k-roy]

Yea ditto that, screw Radioslut.
Get somthing like this (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_SessionID=@@@@2046144796.1075234118@ @@@&BV_EngineID=cchkadckiellefgcehgcemgdffmdflk.0&vertical=SEARS&pid=03482012000&sid=I0008300030000100085&vertical=SEARS&com.broadvision.session.new=Yes)
http://content.sears.com/data/product_images/034/82012/03482012000-190.jpg
I picked one up for $30. It rocks plus it does a lot more than just voltage

[NXRacer]

i was gonna suggest one like that one kroy but i didnt know you could get em for so cheap. those ones are the best.

[it's paid for]

Okay . . . there's something else I forgot to mention . . . I was looking at the carb thinking to myself "Gee . . . that thing looks pretty high up there" . . . so . . . I bent down and looked across the engine bay and to my utter delight I yelled out "YES!!!" . . . no doubt about it, the hood will have to be modified because the adapter plates below the carb lifted it up to the point where it rises above the hood line . . .

. . . so . . . cutting out a hole in the hood is no problem - I have a jigsaw and I can get a blade for cutting through sheetmetal . . . but then what? How do I seal the hood after that? A good friend of mine owns a welding shop . . . I'm thinking . . . maybe I'll let him weld on a "bump" and then maybe later he can make me a special dual exhaust . . .


. . . is this turning out to be a cool project, or what?

[1988starter]

damn I smell some sweet cowel induction or a hood scoop

[k-roy]

A little cutting a little bondo a little paint and you will be all set.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=3771&catalogId=10101&langId=-1&storeId=10101
This is just a sample, there are a lot more scoops available.

[PhydeauX]

I hate to disapoint you but it will clear the hood. Its higher in the center then the sides.

andy

[it's paid for]

I hate to disapoint you but it will clear the hood. Its higher in the center then the sides.


. . . bummer . . . are you sure, because the top edge of the air cleaner - on the side towards the front of the car - is definitely poking up above the hood line . . .

. . . so . . . they make a cowl induction for this Weber? What about a turbo to enhance the top end kick . . . guess a supercharger might help the low end punch . . . fuel injection conversion . . . of course an intercooler would fit in there now . . . 16 valve head . . . porting . . . ya know, maybe with all that crap on it maybe I could squeeze out 115 hp at the rear wheel . . .

(sarcastic emoticon goes here)

I'll be home again this weekend to finish up . . . if I get the ignition timing right and the choke wire connected, it should just start up & run . . . right?

Thanks again,

IPF

[1988starter]

Well It should run correctly good luck man you have come a long way and I am also glad you have family to support you it sure helps alot

[NXRacer]

i know, just get a taller air filter, then you'll HAVE to get a cowl....... :D

[Justin86]

i was gonna suggest one like that one kroy but i didnt know you could get em for so cheap. those ones are the best.
Yea I got one of the digital one for $35.

[it's paid for]

I got back from Sears with my new toys . . . er . . . I mean tools . . . before going to Sears, I got online at Sears.com & found a digital voltage meter for $20 & I wrote down the product number . . . when I couldn't find that one at the store, but found instead a similar one for $30, the Sears salesman told me I could have that one for $20 because his computer listed 8 of the $20 ones in stock but we couldn't find them . . . I also picked up their $35 inductive timing light . . . total bill, with tax was $58 plus change . . .

. . . so . . . I'll be home Friday night and first thing Saturday morning I'll fix my timing & then try to find the original choke wire (& yeah, of course, I fully realize I don't have to have a new voltmeter for this - but - I love getting new toys . . . TOOLS . . . whatever) . . .

Happy Honda-ing,

IPF

[1988starter]

sweet I love new toys err... tools as well.