ok....let us all reply and be honest here

[jteuton]

if you have read any of my other posts i'm trying to track down a lost of power in the upper rpm band...yes i feel the surge around 3000rpm (estimate) and it sounds mean as it rises but it runs out of breath around 5grand. I have visually inspected and went over every single thing inside and out. This leave me to believe that the 'a' series engine has a particular vunerable power band in which the only place you can draw power is between 3000-5000 rpm which as we all know is not going to cut it. So be honest here....who all can say their car pulls hard at lets say 6 grand. Cause i didn't see it when the car was stock and i don't see it now. MODS=Regrinded cam (272degrees .402 lift), ported and polished head and intake, long cold tube induction (ran to inner fender), bored tb, venom injectors, aem adjustable fpr ran at 42psi, dc sports header, no cat, ultra flo dynomax muffler, accel coil, nology wires, ngk sparks, new cap,pcv,fuel filter,valve adj., and timing adj. I gutted the interior and weigh 2200lbs and still feel sluggish....no dyno yet....Does anybody know the key to getting power outta these cars (especially at higher rpms) Another thing if i can't can anybody tell me how to adjust the shift linkage (auto) to shift early to avoid the damn lag at high rpms....i guess i need it to shift at 5g .....so how would i do this....thanks cause i'm outta ideas.....jteuton

[n300zx]

yah my accord loses power after then too...

to shift start out in D3 go until 5 K then let off the gas and pop it down into 2 then up to 5 K and back into D3...

[jteuton]

thanks....but i don't think shifting differently is going to fix my problems.....hmmmmm how about the intake manifold off a 'b' series engine....oh well it definitely can't hurt anything...haha....jteuton

[PhydeauX]

With the old carbed manifold and weber DGV carb along with a 272int 292exh cam of similar lift it would pull all the way to 7000rpm no problems and had a sharp increase at 5000. Going through a slight turn in first at full throttle the tires would break loose when it hit 5000rpm. With the new twin DCOE carbs and custom manifold it slams aginst the 7200rpm rev limit fast and pulls strong all the way up to it with a nice broad flat powerband.

andy

[jteuton]

then if this is true....we have a problem. I just don't know what's up....hmmm...About the aftermarket coil....it doesn't have primaries and secondaries so i tied the two hots together and the two grnd together. I wondered about this but the car runs fine at idle but just has no power. I think if there was a big problem with the coil it would run like shit at idle. I do know the engine gets hot as hell. The dash gauge says its alright and it never boils over but i do know the oil and oil filler cap get so hot you can't even touch it or the valve cover for that matter. I ablsoulely have no clue were the lost power is. I'm so pissed....i'm about to just quit.

[POS carb]

carb or efi??

[PhydeauX]

Its efi I'd bet. Those wires are fine, they should be like that. One on each side is from the ignitor, the other on the + side is power the the other on the - is for the tach. You should have no troubles at high rpms with those mods. Did you check things like the cam timing, compression? It's late and I'm just grabbing at straws but something is definitely up, I'm doing it on a stock head and bottom end no problems, even the stock carbed manifold was up to the task more or less.

andy

[Justanothermike]

get a adjustable cam gear. That is the easiest way to move your power band, and believe me it doesn't sacrifice much bottom end if any at all. Most of our dyno tunning came with cam adjustment. the lower graph was with our cam at wut we thought was lowend setting and then the higher graph at topend setting for the cam.http://openloopmotorsports.com/dyno2.jpg140 at approximately 6500 rpm right before the revlimiter steps in, how much more topend can u ask for? by the looks of your mods list you should be making more then 140 that we have. and at 2200lbs u should be running a low 15 quartermile. The only thing i can think of is tuning and cam profile.

[Sean]

if its an efi car id bet that the factory ecu programming is not only retartding timing but pulling feul as well. think about it. the stock engine runs out of air at 5,000rpm due to cam timing. id bet on sevral things. diminished feul flow. or to smal an injetcor. either way serious efi upgrades are gonna be nessacary to support that power level. my instinct tells me that with the engine running so hot check to see if the ignition timing is retarded/ advanced to much. i would also chekc the valve lash. if you have a reground cam i would bet that its not only worn but yr vavles are clattering ??? also youve really upped the anty with airflow. feul and spark mods are nessacary.

[darkhonda89]

check it out ive put alot into my motor and no matter what i did or how much i spent i had the same question so i did some calling around and did some homework and heres what i did ......i had a cold air and a header dc sport and wires msd blaster coil not enough i bought a integ cold air 90.. got that 2 work added a high flow cat naxous exaust ....nice but not enough then i added a venom 400 HOLY SHIT TOP END all the way to 6.5 peak sweet how ever .................i had valve trouble big time 3 of them last one took out my timing belt 2 ...... so after a few stocks i was turned on 2 bullfrog cams .....amen baby .. they turned me on 2 gude.com all titanium valves and springs new guides port and polish and a cam whole head package 4 SOHC around 2100 total some mail time and LETS GET READY 2 RUMBLEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE...............7000 BABY sweet as hell cost about 3 grand and some homework buy a venom 400cm and a gude SOHC package and all the top end u ever need ........................PEACE................dark: super: :super: :super: :super: :super: lol

[monsonhonda]

i just picked p an 88lxi, but i know back on my 89 when it hit about 4800 rpms it got so much power it wasnt funny, i mean if you were going up a sandy hill in 1st with it floored, and it hit 4800 rpm's, the tires broke loose. i guess it was working so well because my uncle had the honda dealership run $3000+ dollars of repairs on it. i have checked the manuals and i noticed that the 89's had a seccondary barrel for each part of the intake manifold i believe called the air bypass something. i believe the 88's had one to, but not to the same dimension, i believe the 88's had just a seccondary barrel that opened up inside the throttle body. i noticed that most of the repties are comning from 88 or lower years which makes me think either the 88's had less power in the higher rpms' which they did, i believe its like 10 horses less, or you all have faulty bpass things.

peace

fussell.

oh and i checked my 89, its bypass thing is located under the throttle body and before the intake manifold. the 88 does not have the same thing.

[jteuton]

O.K. I'm getting very hot to cracking this. Listen up. At first i thought ignition timing and cam timing was closely related if not the same thing. But further investigation has made me come to realize that i think its possible to have your ignition timing in check but still have your cam timing way off. Does this make any sense? Anyway my ignition timing is set perfect but i'm still fucking slow so I think when colt cams regrinded my shit he didn't index it to the woodruff key so he could have advanced or retarded depended on how he did the grind. Which i lack topend power i believe it is severely retarded. So to advance it (I have no adjustable gear) I think i need to turn it a tooth or two (doesnt' that translate into 7 or 8 degrees....i'm not sure) counterclockwise. Or is it clockwise i'm suppose to turn it? I want to advance cause i'm pretty sure thats the prob so which way to turn the gear?????Of cours i will have to loosen the timing belt and do it that way since i have no adjustable gear so it will be a pain in the ass. But will the timing still be right? I still don't see how you can have the car in time and point the gun at the flywheel and see TDC , but still have the cam gear out of postion with the crank gear. Somebody with more brains than me please advise......JTeuton

[Sean]

have you tried to just simply advance the timing ?? on the distributor. the engine might just not be getting enough up top. as for the cam being out of phase without a degree wheel and the dial guage i can;t tell you how to do it.

[shepherd79]

well, are you running on advanced timing or not?
i have accel coil, colder NGK plugs and advanced timing i get a good job from that old factory carb. it pulls to the 6500 with no problem.
try advanced your timing, it may help.
plus if you have Auto tranny, i would recomend changing to 5 speed. auto is no good for manual shift.

[jteuton]

Well Prolblem Fixed. I advanced the cam timing (7-8 degrees) (Damn I need an adjustable gear) and adjusted the ignition timing to the highest idle speed (which would make it slightly advanced), and cranked the car up. It dropped revs a hella of a lot quicker so i could tell something was up. I got to the end of my driveway and it layed rubber down and hopped like a fucking mad bunny rabbit and ripped through second and slung me into a ditch (everythings ok though....it always needed bodywork) and this is without the nitrous. Damn its quick as hell now...it kind of scares me.....Thanks for all your help....JTeuton

[monsonhonda]

dont tell to many people about the ditch thing... but gald your cars running sweet, i gotta get a cam regring one of these days.

peace

fussell

[87pimpsterdocious]

how do you advance the cam timing?

[A20A1]

You turn the cam gear and camshaft without turning the timing belt.
or if you have and adjustable cam gear you can turn the cam gear and timing belt without turning the camshaft.

[A20A1]

Here is the stupid problem I have...
My distributor advance needs to have a lighter return spring.
I can physically advance the timing but I think top end is gonna suffer... if I advance the timing idle goes way up so I have to drop the idle and losen the throttle cable.
There is no way for me to get high enough vacuum (15" - 20") with out bustin a 1,500rpm idle. Right now its 8" - 10" @ 1,000rpm

[jteuton]

My idle is around 1k rpm and i have fuel injection. The power really kicks in from 3000 to 5500k but i have no idea what vacuum i have at idle. I know I lose out at around 6k now but i'm not messing with the cam timing anymore cause i still have low end torque and if i keep advancing i'm afraid i won't have nothing down low. But now i can feel the tires trying to break loose when pulling hard at 3500k....its cool as hell....JTeuton

[GreenMachine]

I noticed with my car it pulled pretty good straight up to about 5900rpm then sorta faded off. Never really noticed it drop till about there - :stick:

[dhcarss]

I thought that if you advanced your timming you would kill your top end but gain bottom end...??

[jteuton]

thats right......i was saying it ass backards but I knew what i was doing.....make sense

[dhcarss]

so you did move it on the cam gear? If so witch way and how much?

[jteuton]

i skipped the gear ccw one tooth but i have an regrinded cam that needed it bad. i really wanted to only go 3 or 4 degrees but oh well.

[AccordEpicenter]

Make sure your intake bypass valves are opening. Mine werent so I made them permenantly open and got tons more power from 4000+. My powerband used to literally die at 5400-5500 and now it pulls alot harder.