Quick Way To Check Ignition Timing?

[it's paid for]

Do I have to remove the valve cover or can I just remove the top timing belt cover? I was thinking the top timing belt cover may not come off unless the valve cover was removed first - right/wrong?

I know how to get the flywheel mark at TDC but this means the valves could be 180 out of sync . . . I guess I could cut a hole in the top of the timing belt cover so I could see if the cam sprocket was in the right spot . . . geeze . . . that's lazy . . .

This will be the first time I've ever adjusted (properly) my ignition timing - any suggestions? I just obtained an inductive timing light and the car has new plugs, rotor, d-cap & wires . . . I'm pretty sure the distributor is one tooth off and I think I can fix that pretty easy . . .

. . . but I've said that all along this journey and I've never been right so far . . .

thanks,

IPF

[TINBOAT]

Valve cover should come off to see your cam timing marks, then you will see for sure if your belt is out one tooth on the sprocket or not, I suggest you do this first (since playing with your timing to compensate for incorrect valve timing is not a good thing), and once that's done, you can hook up your timing lite and precisely set your timing, there is not alot of adjustment there, and it shouldnt take you very long at all.
Good Luck !!!

[A20A1]

did you remove ignition advance when you did the ignition test?

I'm not sure if it makes a difference but make sure the pickup is on plug wire #1

You could always set TDC on the flywheel then look at the cam gear markings and then take off the cap of the distributor and see if all three are alligned.

Keep the timing belt cover and valve cover off...

[shepherd79]

try adjusting the timing with distributor. if that doesn't help than you have to adjust the timing belt.

[k-roy]

There is a plug on between the engine and the tranny. Pull it and point the timing light at it while running wiith your gun hooked up to cylinder #1. You will see marks on the flywheel that tell you the timing. To adjust the timing loosen the lock bolt on the distributor and twist it while the engine is running. If the timing is too far off then you need to adjust the timing belt.

[it's paid for]

Valve cover should come off to see your cam timing marks, then you will see for sure if your belt is out one tooth on the sprocket or not, I suggest you do this first (since playing with your timing to compensate for incorrect valve timing is not a good thing), and once that's done, you can hook up your timing lite and precisely set your timing, there is not alot of adjustment there, and it shouldnt take you very long at all.
Good Luck !!!


great advice - thanks



To adjust the timing loosen the lock bolt on the distributor and twist it while the engine is running. If the timing is too far off then you need to adjust the timing belt.


. . . I marked the distributor before I took it out and when I put it back in and pointed the rotor at #1 cylinder distributor plug wire connection point, it didn't line up like it used to . . . I think the distributor is off by one gear tooth and needs to be removed & then put back - after setting the #1 cyl at TDC & verifying the cam is at the right spot and the timing belt isn't off by a tooth . . . but . . . I'll do what's been suggested . . . and get it right this time . . . if I have to remove the timing belt I'm gonna scream . . . what a hassle to remove all that stuff and put it back on and get the tension just right and blah, blah, blah . . .

I'm hoping it's just ignition timing . . . does the rotor ALWAYS point to #1 cylinder when at TDC for #1?

I'll get it . . .

Thanks everyone,

IPF

[TINBOAT]

The rotor should appear to be a FEW degrees past #1 @ TDC...since your timing is set BTDC (15* on efi).
As for the belt tensioner, you just have to loosen the bolt on the idler, and retighten after you have cycled the engine 2 revolutions...DO NOT FORCE TENSION ON THE IDLER, it is preset with a calibrated fulcrum spring.
As for the rotor position, at TDC, it's either at #1 plug, or 180* out.

[it's paid for]

2 problems:

1 - Runs rough and hard to start

2 - Not much power

I think the carb linkage is messed up . . . I can't figure out how to get the 2nd stage to open fully - even when I push the accellerator pedal all the way to the floor . . . it's hard to start and it runs rough when it runs . . . I've put about 10 miles on it and it gets me around, but it doesn't seem to be running "reliably" . . . I've done everything I can with the ignition timing . . . it all seems somewhat complicated - to set the ignition timing you have to have the engine warmed up and idling at about 800 rpm, right? If it won't idle, then I guess you can't set the ignition timing, right?

I've been setting the timing by doing this:

- lining up the flywheel timing indicator with the middle of the 3 timing marks on the flywheel (not the TDC mark) . . . then I move the rotor to point to the #1 cylinder plug wire . . . then I start the engine . . . and it's often very hard to start and runs very rough . . . I set it to idle at about 1100 to 1600 rpm . . . anything lower and it just dies unless you give it gas . . .

I'm assuming I'm not connecting the accelerator pedal cable to the carb linage properly because the 2nd stage doesn't seem to be "kicking in" . . . as is, the car will build up speed but seems pretty underpowered and builds power slowly . . .

help!