carb newbie problems(yes, startup..)

[team caffeine]

on a cold morning, i'm having a problem starting the car. it'll start on the first try usually but the idle will keep bouncing low and will stall if i don't keep my foot on the gas. is there a way to fix this or is this just common for cold mornings? is keeping my foot on the gas bad for the car?

after the car stalls, it usually take a few cranks to get started again and usually takes a little stepping on the gas as well.

this is the way the car usually acts on a cold morning:
5 mins with low idle(sometimes stalling if i don't keep giving it gas)
3 mins with high idle(2k-2.5k, if i tap the gas too early it'll even be at 3k+)
tap the gas and idle drops to normal

when it's warm, i still hafta deal with the high idle for like 5 mins. any ideas?

89 accord lx auto

[shepherd79]

replace both fuel filters.
if that doesn't help. get carb cleaner and clean the carb and linkages on the carb.

[JOESLIM]

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. I REPLACED FILTERS & REBUILT THE CARB AND ITS STILL DOING IT. i GAVE UP AND BOUGHT A WEBER. i'M INSTALLING IT NEXT WEEK AND DOING THE VAC LINE REMOVAL.

[ephebert]

I have the same problem on my 89 5sp. I have owned 3 honda's and they have all done the same. There is no magical cure that I have found. I have rebuilt the clutch, carb, replaced filters nothing has worked yet. I have found that on mine the thermovalve and diaphram is bad. I am going to replace those soon and ten see what's up.

All of my Honda's acted great while in fast idle but then when it warmed up it dies or idles so low (200-500 rpm) that it shakes the car.

[kholyfire]

i have the same problem, could it be a problem with the vaccum lines?

[A20A1]

Yes vacuum lines can cause problems... also thermovalves could be bad.

To check for vacuum leaks use carb cleaner and run the car... spray the cleaner in small areas near vacuum line connections and the gasket between the carb and manifold and manifold and cylinder head... but spray away from the mouth of the carb to keep the carb from sucking in the cleaner and messing up the test.

What the carb cleaner does is if there is a vacuum leak the vacuum will suck in the carb cleaner and the idle usually raises slightly... so you'll hear the car rev a little bit then drop back down. This pinpoints the area to each for the leak.

You should fully warm up the car and remove the air cleaner then run the carb cleaner test.
http://www.3geez.com/showpost.php?p=451947&postcount=1

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[kholyfire]

Hey thanx, A20A1. Should I consider replacing the entire vaccum line set-up? I don't believe anything's ever been done with it.

[A20A1]

If you do that I'd get a labler and secure lables to each of the new hoses so that they match the number on the vacuum line that was replaced.

You need a lot of 5/32" vacuum line. 60 feet should be enough.

Also you might want some 5/32" vacuum caps... 5 sould be enough.

Be careful when removing old vacuum lines there are a lot of plactic vacuum valves and other parts that snap off easily and it may take a while to replace the broken part... so it's good to have a sharp exacto knife (razor blade) around to carefuly slice into the side of a vacuum line without putting too much pressure on it because it could snap the port. Once you slice thru the vacuum line it sould pull off the vacuum port easily.

When installing new vacuum lines a small amount of liquid soap can help the vacuum line slide onto the ports. I usually coat the port a little and not the vacuum line inside just to keep soap from getting inside.



Also look at the choke,

the choke opener has a bleed in it to stop the opener from opening the choke plate too far... the choke doesn't always close fully when the car is running. But durring start up it should close.
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[POS carb]

the thermovalves (or vac lines connecting to them) are probably not functioning correctly; also make sure there are 12V at the choke heater wire when you first start the car

whith engine cold and off:
the choke should be open. crack the accelerator a bit, choke should slam shut.
please verify that it does this before tearing anything up

[A18A]

on a cold morning, i'm having a problem starting the car. it'll start on the first try usually but the idle will keep bouncing low and will stall if i don't keep my foot on the gas. is there a way to fix this or is this just common for cold mornings? is keeping my foot on the gas bad for the car?
after the car stalls, it usually take a few cranks to get started again and usually takes a little stepping on the gas as well.
this is the way the car usually acts on a cold morning:
5 mins with low idle(sometimes stalling if i don't keep giving it gas)
3 mins with high idle(2k-2.5k, if i tap the gas too early it'll even be at 3k+)
tap the gas and idle drops to normal
when it's warm, i still hafta deal with the high idle for like 5 mins. any ideas?
89 accord lx auto
right now my car is doing the very exact same, except its a hot day, but its doing the same anyways, idle is now bouncing at 1500 - 2500 and then after a few seconds of that, the carb back fires and then it stalls :help: i looked at all them thingies that move things on the carb and moved them a bit here and there but no changes, havnt messed with the choke opener though

[A18A]

ooooooooooook so now it just wont idle low, its still got a bit of a bouncing idle, bounces about 300rpm, but when i tramp the accelerator it responds fast but the revs take toooo long to come back down. and now its idling at 2000rpm and wont drop, throttle cables good, plugs good, coolant good, oil good, fuel filters good, air cleaner good, oil filter good. and i know for sure now it is a carb problem, i think it could be a fast idle unloader or something, can someone please post a pic how-to for me asap please?

[Tailfin]

First, make sure the choke is operating properly. That determines a lot on starting the engine. When it's cold the choke plate should be closed completely, but not "snap" shut with a lot of force. When the car is turned on, the choke opener should pull it until the tab is seated against the carb body.

[A18A]

i think i know what you mean with that thingy on the carb body, i moved it there slowly by finger and the car stalled before it touched the body

well it has the problems again

[A20A1]

So you closed your choke and the car stalled, but with the choke open a little the car idles?


What he is addressing I think is not idle choke operation but start up choke operation... when you're starting the car the choke should close... but it'll be cracked open when you're idling.

So you don't want to shut it after you have the car idling.

[Tailfin]

I was...but I also meant to make sure the choke opener is opening as far as it's supposed to. It's supposed to seat that little tab against the carb body....and on mine, it would be rough if I didn't get it to do that...maybe he's running a bit lean with all the emissions junk lol...but anyway, from the other thread, looks like things are beter.

[Cuervo1800559]

I just got my 86' Accord and I've never had a carburated(hopefully that's spelled right)car so help me out...I think it might have a timing problem or an idle problem because it will die when I come to a stop at an intersection or when I go into reverse and it lags to start...not only that it smells like gasoline whenever it's running is this normal? Also my front windows won't go down cuz they're either stuck or they fall of the track...Help please, this car has to last me for a while and I don't want to put too much money into it...I have some knowledge of cars and my buddy went to Wyotech so he can help if I just need to buy some parts...

[russiankid]

My borther had this problem...but no dieing it happend to be the slow heater choke, replaced that and no problems every since.