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View Full Version : bad EGR (Error code 12)



eflopez
02-23-2004, 11:33 AM
Hi,

I have an Accord LXi 1987. The last week the PGM-FI turned on.

So, I checked the ECU flash light, and said that is an error code 12.

I realized that when the light turns on the idle ups to 1250 RPM. But when the light is off, the idle is 750 RPM.

Is a symthom that th EGR is bad, or is another thing?

Regards.

AZmike
02-23-2004, 01:15 PM
Yes, the EGR coe cuases teh change in idle. When the computer sees that the EGR is not working right the computer goes into fail-safe mode which raises the idle to 1200 rpm. My prelude is doing the same thing. I've heard it's related to the constant vacuum valve in the black emission box.

eflopez
02-23-2004, 01:39 PM
thanks AZmike.

So, the next step is the change of the EGR valve.

AZmike
02-23-2004, 05:19 PM
The problem probably isn't the EGR valve itself, but the solenoid, constant vacuum valve and vacuum chamber that contol it. They're all found in the emission box. Several people have had similar problems and fixed them. I'll see if I can did up their posts later if you're not able to find them yourself.

1988starter
02-23-2004, 05:40 PM
Why I would do is take off the egr valve and blast it with carb or throttlebody cleaner

AZmike
02-25-2004, 08:38 AM
There's a chance that would would help. It didn't make any difference for me though.

1988starter
02-25-2004, 12:34 PM
it fixed the one on my friends tempo

mattalica
02-25-2004, 06:52 PM
Why I would do is take off the egr valve and blast it with carb or throttlebody cleaner
Dude I did the same thing last week and thought the problem was solved.Then my light came on again.WTF!I have replaced the sensor the valve was still good.
The problem w/ the spray is that it just sits on top of the valve doing nothing.If the valve is stuck it just sits there and if the valve is opened it will evaporate pretty quickly.Your best bet is to get a new sensor or new EGR all together they are very expensive.About 200.00 bucks in my area.I went to the junkyard today and scored one that appears to be working for about 13 bucks including insurance so that if it doesn't work I can take it back

accelerator
03-01-2004, 08:17 PM
I had a code 12 for awhile now, and at first, I could unhook the battery to clear it and it would be OK for a few weeks. Then, it got to the point that as soon as the engine was up to operating temp, the pgmfi light would come on. My car had 312K, and the valve seals were gone (smoked heavily on start-up), and I figured that maybe my engine was making so little vacuum that it wasn't lifting the EGR valve. I swapped out the old motor for a JDM long-block with 28K miles. I troubleshot the EGR system using the factory manual (worth EVERY penny!), and it got down to the point to where the CVC valve was the next to change. I wanted to make sure that I wasn't wasting my money on buying a new part from Honda that may or may not be bad, so I went to my local wrecking yard and cut out 2 emissions boxes from an 88 and an 89 Lxi car. I swapped out CVC valves and carb-cleaned and blew out the air chamber with my compressor. I installed the parts, and it runs great. So far, there has been no pgmfi light. I hope this info helps anybody with a code 12 problem. Total cost: 15 bucks.

grove
07-27-2004, 08:51 AM
i need help with my code 12 problem. i have replaced the egr valve 3 times now all junkyard donors, reseted the computer each time i put a new one in, replaced the vaccuum solenoid and some other vaccum shit that i dont know what it was or anything all i did was follow all the vaccum lines that tied into the egr vavle and replaced those components, everything i got was from the junk yard. i think my next step is to just put a egr block on it and call it quits. i would much rather find out what else could be my problem and fix it the right way instead of just elimating it.

gamenerd
03-21-2006, 04:30 PM
Dude I did the same thing last week and thought the problem was solved.Then my light came on again.WTF!I have replaced the sensor the valve was still good.



where is the egr valve sensorS?????

'A20A3'
03-21-2006, 05:54 PM
I ripped mine off and now I have that 1200 idle. I don't care though.

If it's not necessary for the engine to run, goodbye.:toilet:

shepherd79
03-22-2006, 06:32 AM
if you are going to replace the EGR valve with a used one from the junk yard, make sure it can hold the vacuum. A lot of them don't hold the vacuum.

wallyyfm
03-24-2006, 07:15 AM
i just got one from berto as I'm having the same problem...i'm installing today

wallyyfm
03-26-2006, 12:05 PM
doesn anyone know how hard it is to get the fucker out?

well, IT'S FUCKING HARD

i needed a jointed socket to get it out, and i ended up smashing it anyway

whatever, i replaced it with a EGR that held good vacuum, and nothing, still get the code

so...i apparently need to open that spider box...and do what exactly?

wallyyfm
03-27-2006, 04:02 PM
well, i might have it beat, it didn't turn on from my way from work to class, it did on the trip before, RPMs stayed at 900 on idle...i'm hoping it stays off, if not, i'm going to be looking for a EFI box

Versanick
03-28-2006, 12:41 PM
just plug the vacuum line (that goes to the EGR) and use your idle adjustment screw to drop your idle down below 1000.

wallyyfm
03-28-2006, 05:44 PM
well yeah, i could do that, but i would actually like to fix the problem

it came back on, im going to open the box up this weekend, see what i can do, maybe some boxes down at the yard

Nospeed
04-01-2006, 08:36 AM
im getting the same code. the wires for the sensor on the exhaust manifold have been cut by the previous owner, or some crap...would that make my fast idle as well?