Replace idle mix solenoid w/ carb in place?

[joebeets]

Hi,

This is the gizmo at the back of the carb. I've reached the point where I'm going to have to replace it and hope it cures my intermittent stumble. Anyone done this? Do I need to take the carb off the manifold?

Thanks,
Joe

[SteveDX89]

Trying to do it with it on the car with all the vac lines in the way will be a massive bitch. Where in Maryland are you located?

[shepherd79]

i don't know how hard it would be to remove it with everything on. i think it would be easy to remove the carb.

[joebeets]

Thanks for the replies. I'm near Aberdeen. I might as well do a rebuild if I have to take it off. I'm going to try to replicate the problem first, though, by disconnecting it w/ engine running.

[SteveDX89]

I don't think the car will idle with it disconnected. You're only about 50 miles from me. If you can get it running that long, maybe you could come up here one weekend and I can take a look at it. I have a spare idle mix solenoid you can have.

[shepherd79]

the car won't idle without that piece.

[joebeets]

Cool. Thanks for the offer--I'll see how it goes. The plan is to first drive around while monitoring its voltage at the ECU, looking for dropouts when the car stumbles. That would point to one of the inputs since I've already swapped ECUs. If that's not it, I'll install a switch to cut its power while driving and see if it causes the stumble. If that happens I'll replace/rebuild.

[SteveDX89]

Yeah, just keep us updated.

[Michael Cote]

If your talking about that solenoid that is at back of carburator with one wire going to it, I had a stumble in mine that would only happen at normal cruising at that 2500-3500rpm range. Worked fine at full throttle or a 3/4 load on it and idled perfect. It was that solenoid. I wired it direct from the fuse box with a quick connect and 3ft of wire and fused it for safety and connected it to the extra accessory male pin in fuse box. Works fine now. That solenoid is suppose to ct off fuel when key is off and also while coasting above 15-20 mph and above. I messed with mine for weeks trying to find problem. I suspected that solenoid and finally put a voltage meter on it and sure enough when it warmed up to temperature it started to stumble and meter would drop off. Fixed it for $2.00 worth of parts. One female connector, 3 ft wire and one quick connect. done. Good luck, Mike C.

[ELM'sLX+CHL'sDX]

I don't believe you need to remove the carb to remove this solenoid. There is either a screw or bolt holding it to the Carburetor. The connector to the wire harness is under a set of metal vacuum lines on the passenger side of the carburetor. That one can be a bitch to disconnect. You may have to remove several vacuum lines to thread the connector out.

Claude

[SteveDX89]

I don't believe you need to remove the carb to remove this solenoid. There is either a screw or bolt holding it to the Carburetor. The connector to the wire harness is under a set of metal vacuum lines on the passenger side of the carburetor. That one can be a bitch to disconnect. You may have to remove several vacuum lines to thread the connector out.

Claude

You don't have to remove the carb but it is much more difficult with it on. The metal vac lines behind the carb will be in the way. You won't be able to get to the screw unless you have an offset screwdriver and those are a pain in the ass because you can't get them to work right all the time.

[A20A1]

You don't need a screwdriver just a 8mm wrench.

[joebeets]

Hi,

Just following up (see msg below) Based on my last few days of trouble-free driving, the Radio Noise Condenser, an $8 part--the last ignition component unchanged--was the culprit.
Now I can get back to worrying about all my other problems. :cool2:

Thanks for all the suggestions.
JB



"My engine (carb, AT) starts rapidly cutting out and in after 20 mins
of driving. I lurch down the road with steady throttle but tach
oscillating regularly between approx. 2000 and 2500, on a 1 second
cycle.

This will go on for several seconds, then it might run perfectly
smooth for 100 yards, then resume. Putting it in neutral makes no
difference. Eventually it starts to stumble and I have to pull over. I
don't have to be cruising; first appearance was when it died at a red
light.

But if I shut off the engine, wait a couple minutes and restart, it
goes away.
I've already replaced the igniter/coil and ignition wires. The cap and
rotor are recent, and I swapped the ECU. No dice.

I'm thinking radio condenser next. It's unlikely, I know, but it's the
last ignition component unchanged. If that's not it, I'll have to
start looking at vacuum leaks. It doesn't seem like a fuel supply
problem."

[joebeets]

Might have to test that solenoid, but it probably contributes little to the total fuel flow, and so couldn't kill my engine at 3000 rpm. Same with the vacuum leak theory--should not matter at open throttle. Still leaves the carb though.

Have to think about it. Luckily have two cars.

Thanks for the replies though.