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pixiesfan78
02-24-2004, 12:19 AM
i had rebuilt my carb about 4 months ago but i wanted my mechanic to adjust it. so then he says that my accelerator pump is not working and he cant adjust the carb . how exactly does it work thers no vacume line on it just the bladder and a rubber nipple on top that gets pressed by a lever.what could go wrong with it?so the result is if i push my accelerator hard it hesetates untill i let up also it takes 3 to4 turns of the key to start it.any body know what it could be?thanks :

shepherd79
02-24-2004, 04:34 AM
if i was you i would go back and ask him why does he thinks it doesn't work. i think he is just trying to rip you off.
3-4 turns before starting is normal.
try this, before you start,pump the pedal a few times. with ignition on. that should help.

pixiesfan78
02-24-2004, 08:03 PM
today after the vacume line removal and idle adjust the acc pump started leaking so i took it apart with the carb still installed turns out that i had installed the bladder upside down oops. so with some gasket sealer and the pump reinstalled i took it out for a spin and much to my dismay when i get on the pedal good from a low rpm it still hesitates and bogs down oh by the way the car runs ten times better after the vac removal thanks to everyone who made it possible. so do you think it is a problem with the acc pump.i dont deal with that mechanic anymore after paying 280.00 bucks to have a damn cheap alternator put on i would have done it myself but the car died in the shop parking lot.im doing all my work from now on unless i dont have the propper tools for the job.

pixiesfan78
02-24-2004, 08:07 PM
oh yeah i always pump before start its not really the starting that i am worried about its the hesitation.

A20A1
02-25-2004, 02:34 AM
Careful about gasket sealer near the diaphragm there are tiny passages that divert the fuel... if you block those you're not going to get much fuel out of the pump. Also the pump spring is usually very weak so you might want to add some spacers to take up the springs slack or add a stiffer spring of your own.

pixiesfan78
03-15-2004, 01:02 AM
well theres no more fuel leak.but i still dont know if the acc. pump is working.what exactly is the purpose of the rubber nipple on top i mean it cant push very much pressure. i like the stiffer spring idea. but i still dont understand how the pump works untill i know how it works i cant be sure its working.does the fuel enter dirctly through the pump? or does it just take a little extra gas and spitt it in when needed?how is it controlled?the car boging down is annoying me. help anybody i really need to eliminate the accelerator pump as the problem if thats not it ill try a new fuel pump next.will someone please explain in detail how the accelerator pump works.

A20A1
03-15-2004, 11:34 AM
Rubber nipple on top is just a covering for the metal rod that runs down to the diaphragm at the bottom.

pixiesfan78
03-15-2004, 07:50 PM
thats what the friggin problem is the diaphragm that i installed has no metal rod on it its just a flat rubber disk. i must have gotten the wrong rebuild kit or i seem to remember that the one with the rod didnt fit the rod was to wide for the hole. i was totally winging it when i rebuilt the carb no choice but im getting the feel for it now.so let me get this right the lever pushes down on the rod witch is what gives the gas a squirt? also what is the best rebuild kit i can buy for this carb and where should i get it?i cant wait to have this thing running right. the accelerator pump should help with the starting to hah like when i pump it. thanks so much a20a1

pixiesfan78
03-15-2004, 08:39 PM
i dont know how many times ive asked about the acc. pump since i found 3 geez and a20a1 finally nailed it. ive even thought about that rod before but it just got up and left my mind. sumbisch short term memory loss is a bitch.

A20A1
03-15-2004, 08:50 PM
huh? the rod doesn't come with the rebuilt kit... or at least i don't think it does... it may have fallen out though... so the arm you have on there now moves correctly but is pushing on thin air eh???

Well I hope you can get a new rod... it's fairly easy to get one from a junk carb and maybe pocket it... though I feel bad for the guy looking for a used carb and pulls the one you got the rod from.

Remove the air cleaner... then remove the small cotter pin that holds the accelerator pump arm to the pivot point on the carb top-hat. Slide the arm off to the right and then get some pliers and pull the pin out of the slot... and thats it.

pixiesfan78
03-15-2004, 09:14 PM
would it be possible to fabricate the rod out of something in my garrage is it just a straight metal pin or is it ellaborate.also does any one have a pic of the rod if its not just a straight pin.

pixiesfan78
03-15-2004, 09:27 PM
also i just thought about the rubber peice wich way does it go in on one side it has a rather wide flat metal disk on the other side its not as big and is kinda cuped so wich side goes up towards the metal rod ?

A20A1
03-15-2004, 09:41 PM
It's thicker then coat hanger wire... I tried that once and it didn't work you also run the risk of puncturing the rubber part of the diaphragm if the rod isn't sturdy.

I was thinking of maybe a polished nail... preferably stainless steel with the ends rounded off smooth.

This is the best pic I could find so far.

pixiesfan78
03-18-2004, 01:50 AM
i made the rod out of a small cheap stainless screwdriver cut it to size grinded the tips rounded a little bit it was a perfect diameter. works like a charm got rid of most of the hesitation on take off and now it starts on the first turn with a lttle pump of the gas. sweet .