New motor break in

[contraband]

A freind and I were just discussing the topic of motor break in. I know its a very controversial issue, and Ive heard everything from baby it to run it hard WOT to drive it to factory recommendations. What is everyones experience? Ill be breaking in a new motor in a bit so it would be helpful!

[A20A1]

Take it slow... there is a lot of work involved... from choosing the right type of oil... and changing the oil along with the filter a few times durring the process.

I read something about before starting it up when you just crank the car but remove one of the spark plugs or wires so the engine will trun but not run. That way you build oil pressure. I'll have to go look for the write up but it was very long.

[Oyvind Ryeng]

I *heard* (from experienced tuners in Norway (mostly Cosworth)):
*Use mineral oil (fully synthetic makes the rings take forever to seal against the cylinder wall)
*Drive it for approx. 100 miles, with careful use of throttle (do not let engine cool in this period) (If you got boost - use with caution)
*Change to oil of choice (personal preference: Castrol GTX5 Lightec 10-40) (of course you change the oil filter too)
*Done - use the throttle like a madman.

[Robs89LXi]

Hey, Contraband, tell me more about your turbo setup. Did you put that on, or was it already on the car?

[k-roy]

Here is what I did with mine.
After letting it idle for about an hour I took it for a good 3 hour drive without taking it over 3,000 rpms.
When it was around 100 miles I took it home and changed the oil. Over the next few days I drove it about 500 more miles taking it kinda easy, progressively giving it some more juice. Sure I gave it a little WOT, but I still kept it below 4,000 rpms. The original oil I used for the first two cycles was regular old Penzoil 20W50. Then I changed it to Royal Purple Full synthetic 10W30. I let it idle in the driveway for about 5 hours. Then I took it up to redline a ferw times and had a nice joyride. Over the first few weeks I noticed the engine actually developed more power as the rings set in. After a month and a couple more thousand miles I started my regular maintaince schedule and its been running great ever sinse.

[shepherd79]

here is what i do when i break in my motors.
1. before i even start i use regular mobil oil. remove the coil wire. crank the engine a few times to build up oil pressure.
2. install the coil plug back on, and start the motor.
3. drive first 500 miles. i don't go over 45miles per hour.
4. drive the rest of the 500 miles at normal speeds without racing. normal 3-4K shifting.
5. 1000 mile mark, i change the oil.
6. after that the motor will last me 200K at least.

[rjudgey]

use cheap mineral oil not synthetic, disconnect dizzy wires or coil wires crank engine over for couple minutes, all parts should have been oiled upon assembly, then start her up run at 2-3k for 15-30 minutes to check everything is okay, then take for a motorway run at 60 mph for a couple of hours. change oil and filter still use mineral 10/40w or 15/40w then run for 3k t
en switch to synthetic and start using additives, but rings can take a while to bed i find 3k is best and running mineral oil for first 3k isn't going to do any harm as it's not been in their long enough to deteriorate. you can normally tell by doing compression test after few hundred miles starts of low 150-175psi then when nicely bedded in after 3k if gapping is correct and rockers aren't to

[contraband]

Well I guess the general consensus is to baby it for a bit, was reading somewhere where a guy breaks his cars in purely with WOT runs, the purpose being to make use of the honing before it wears, thus seating the rings quicker. I'll likely work up to hard runs as you all seem to recommend, with lots of oil changes.

And robs89lxi the car came turbocharged, and its a great setup. Its running a primitive FMU and aftermarket pump (it was built in the 80's) but I currently have it out for rebuild.

[Robs89LXi]

Thanks. I was wondering where they got the Mosselman turbo header from. That is very unique, especially for a Japanese motor. I like the design though, and how it moves the turbo over to the side like that. Don't suppose you could find out where the previous owner got it, eh?

[Nuffice]

Simple:
Use Regular Shyt Oil, Stay away from Synthetic.
Drive it like normal and get it on lil bit.. If you drive like a grany, your rings will not set properly. The gases helps the rings set properly. Oil Change every 200 miles, until like 2000k. Make sure it's stop and go miles. Driving for 2k miles w/ o stopping is not the best solution. You want your engine to get used to driffrent loads.

[contraband]

Thanks. I was wondering where they got the Mosselman turbo header from. That is very unique, especially for a Japanese motor. I like the design though, and how it moves the turbo over to the side like that. Don't suppose you could find out where the previous owner got it, eh?

I went and searched through the internet once again for it but still nothing... All BMW stuff. I know they make one for the NSX, but still I drive no NSX! Anyhow I got the turbo rebuilt and Im getting the motor TOTALLY rebuilt and machined. I aso have devised my own method of getting the upper frame straight. When Im done it should be mint!

[eightyfivelude]

ok.. you do not want to let your car sit at an idle the first time you start it. Start it up and hold it at like 2000rpm or so as you make sure there are no oil leaks or anything. After everything looks good after a few minutes, take her out on the street and drive her like she was stolen. Don't take it way up in the revs but get on the gass and get off the gas. You need to do this to seat the bearing properly. This whole process should take about half an hour of agressive driving. After that half hour she is broken in. You can drive it like normal after that. You don't want to wait too long after that to take it up in RPM range so you don't form ridges at the top of the cylinder bore. You can use any weight of oil you want but DO NOT use synthetic. IF you have ever watched a performance shop build a motor top to bottom and then run it on the dyno after... what do they do? Run it for 5 passes or so to WOT and they don't baby it up, they get on it. Engines that are broken in hard last longer, have more power and such.


I just had a brand new motor build and I now have only 613km's on it. I broke it in just like I said above. Took her out and drove her like she was stolen. No metal deposits in the oil, no smoke out the tailpipe. She pulls like you wouldn't believe. Compression is steady all across the board. I totally support the hard break in. What I did was what the shop that built my motor told me to do

Matt

[A20A1]

I'd say performance shops do the quick break in case they need the motor to set in quicker, but if you're not on some tight schedual to go race your engine then I'd still suggest not going too hard on the motor untill after the break in.

[eightyfivelude]

you need to go hard to seat the bearings properly... the first 30min of an engines life are the most important

Matt

[AZmike]

I broke my prelude in pretty hard after its rebuild. I let it idle, checked for leaks until it was warm then took it out and ran up through the gears and engine braked to break-in both sets of rings. I read this:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

and it seemed to make enough sense that I figured it was worth a try. If something is going to break it will just take longer if you take it easy.

[Sean]

just run it hard. it it blows up its built wrong.

[contraband]

Yup I think Im going to run it pretty hard NA, then maybe after 500 miles boost to 5.5psi. Should be safe! Cant wait. Yeah AZmike thats the exact thing I was looking at!

[A20A1]

I broke my prelude in pretty hard after its rebuild. I let it idle, checked for leaks until it was warm then took it out and ran up through the gears and engine braked to break-in both sets of rings. I read this:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
and it seemed to make enough sense that I figured it was worth a try. If something is going to break it will just take longer if you take it easy.

http://hotrodders.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=36583
http://hotrodders.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35598

[riced_roach]

I've never had a problem with breaking in a Honda engine. Some people say this and that. First things first you get oil pressure without spark. If you wanna be anal get oil pressure without spark plugs. Then install all the ignition components.

Start it and get a buddy to check the timing and check for leaks for the first minute or so. I always vary the rpms up and down from 1000rpms to 2500 rpms. This varies the rpms for the rings to bed. Hondas have average joe blow spring pressure so depending on what year engine the cam and lifter breakin is non existant.

No need to beat the crap out of the engine. Bearings DONT need breakin. If it has proper oil clearances and crush then theres nothing to worry about. Drive it how you normally drive BUT DONT go on the highway and keep the engine at the same rpm for a long period of time. Thats all.

Change the oil before a normal regular oil change and your fine. And hate to break it to you guys but there alot of cars out ther BRAND NEW that are broken in with synthetic oil......porsche is just one of many. So dont believe the old wives tale cause it aint true anymore. I personally stick with older methods of using mineral oil.

Breaking in Honda engines is a snap since they're overhead cams only need wimpy spring pressure for the valvetrain which eliminates any flat cam or lifter issues. Valve control is never an issue with hondas even in stock application since the cam will top out before you go beyond redline.