Brakes... serious stuff

[lonesouldier]

Okee doke. I'm running an 89 Accord LX Sedan. I think I should be worried about my brakes. :rolleyes: I almost have to step completely down on the brake pedal in order to even feel the brakes start to work. It's come to the point where the braking is so bad I have to use the e-brake in conjunction with the regular brake. (I dunno if it really works.) :uh:

Oh yeah, also; the car tends to go to lurch to the right and the steering wheel vibrates when I reach in excess of 25 MPH.

So ummm... what's happening here? :dunno: Is there anything I can do myself? I'll probably take her to the shop on Friday.

Zedrick

[shepherd79]

first, i am sure you brake pads are just work out to hell, that is why you have to step on the pedal.
second, if the car pulls to the right, something is wrong. it could be that the suspension needs alignment or you caliper on the right is stuck and rubbing the disk.
take it to a shop and let them figure out.

[nswst8]

Brakes are really easy, once you get comfortable working with them.
1. Inspect your brake fluid. is it clear or does it look contaminated.
2. Look for signs of leaks, trail the brake lines and check for signs of leaks.
3. Check the pad thickness front pads 1/8" thickness min. Rear same.
Replace if less you probably only have a couple thousands miles left at
this thickness. Now this is just from my experience.
4. Calipers (front) Wheel cylinders (rear) Now you live in Hawaii "salt air"
I would start looking for signs of rust and dry seals on these.

Now if you take it to a shop, Minimum $100 just for pads/shoes and turning the rotors and drums. If anything else is needed "Cha Ching" Brakes are money makers for shops and me too. Brake jobs and Tune ups put me through 1st year college.

If you attempt yourself and I would encourage you to, remember you do one side at a time so you can refer to the other side as a reference.

Hope this helps
Phil :cheers:

[lonesouldier]

Aight, Phil. So I guess I'll be needing my Chilton's manual for this one? I'm assuming I'll need jackstands to check out the wear and tear and to do the job.

$100 for the pads/shoes? Damn. Guess if I get confident enough I could start charging my friends and make up for the losses.

Zedrick

[nswst8]

Good set of needle nose pliers.

6"-8" C-Clamp.

simple ratchet or box end (do not use adjustable if possible) and be very careful if you do.

can of "PB Blast" apply to bolts before loosening.

Impact screw driver if possible.

rubber mallet preferable or hammer just don't get crazy with it.

When using C clamp use old pad to assist in pushing caliper piston back in, Pad to piston, not metal backing of pad to piston. This way you don't have to open bleed screw to push piston back.
Unless your flushing old fluid.

High temp grease for rear brake metal to metal contacts.

anti squeal lube for front caliper metal to metal.

Use a mild soap and water to wash brakes down into a bucket or to the ground just don't blow brake dust all over you don't want to inhale this stuff.
and a set of latex gloves to help keep the hands and nails clean especially if your a nail bitter.

Now this what I paid for parts $36 for 2 rear wheel cylinder, $12 for front pads, $18 for rear shoes, $45 for 2 new rotors, $56 for 2 new rear drums, and I believe $10 for new hardware kits, I didn't need Reman calipers, but if you do get them, I don't rebuild these with the price of these just not worth the hassle.

Just take your time, don't rush take a full day if this is your first time. usually takes me a couple hours for full brake job only because I don't do these all the time.

Hope this helps.
Phil :cheers:

[lonesouldier]

Hell yeah, bro. Thanks for the play-by-play. It don't include the cost of the tools, though but it should be way cheaper than bringing it to the shop. Or am I wrong?

Zedrick

[nswst8]

You will save in the long and beginning of the run.
Lets put it this way in 1981 I had a Ford and the shop charged me $271 for brakes and this only included new front rotors. I had just received my tax return of $281 so I had enough for a movie afterward. :sadwave:
If you have to the most basic tools it can get you through the brake job, but with what you will save it just makes good sense to purchase what you need to do the job. and after like I said before brakes are money makers.
Phil :cheers:

[lonesouldier]

Just got back from Midas doing a brake inspection thing. It's funny how things turn from bad to worse. I think the total bill cost will give you an idea how much worse. $1153.79

Here's a quick-and-dirty pixie of the statement:

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/6/web/510000-510999/510009_1_full.jpg

Hrmm... guess CarDomain downsized the original pixie. :rolleyes:

Here's a brief overview.

BRAKE HOSES (BH) - 66.99
BRAKE HOSES (BH) - 66.99
MIDAS PLUS RM SHOE - 49.99
WHEEL CYLINDERS (W - 91.98
DRUM HARDWARE KT (D - 19.99
MIDAS PLUS RM SHOE 49.99
BRAKE DRUMS (BD) - 88.99
RESURFACE DRUM - 0
BLEED/REFILL/ADJUST - 5.00
MASTER CYLINDER (C - 171.99 :help:

:barf: Totals up to 611.91 w/o labor
:barf: W/ labor is about 1056.91

Zedrick

[SharkyX]

ok that sounds hella steep! i would take it to another place , try a Firestone if you have 1 get a second quote, or heres an even better one that ive done. You know what parts you need, get them off the net way cheaper, once you get them all approach a mecanic at a shop and let him know you have all the parts and tell him you will give him like a buck fifty or $200 to do it on the side, you will save mass $$ if you can do it this way. Im sure the guys here can help find the parts cheap.

[lonesouldier]

Hey Phil, any DIY advice or directions?

Zedrick

[nswst8]

As I said, Brakes are money makers. Do yo have a Autozone, Advance Discount Auto, Price check everything. Now all your parts will be way less expensive. All your parts will cost around $200. use remanufactured parts with a guarantee.
Master cylinder is as easy as pie, disconect your lines remove the 2 mounting bolts replace with new one.

Now Midas is probably the most expensive brake shop that I know of, you can find a shop to do it for about half that quote.
Don't use pep boys, firestone, or tire stores go to a hole in the wall place.

But you can do this yourself, remember one side at a time and take your time.

Hope this helps
Phil :cheers:

[lonesouldier]

Got your msg, bro. Much mahalos. Actually we got a Checkers if that helps.

I guess I'll cancel that Firestone appointment on Friday. :rolleyes:

Zedrick

[Wood9669]

my brakes do the same thing, but $700ish was just spend on em (including master cylinder) and they still do it,
i just am used to brake+ebrake+downshift to stop lol

[nswst8]

Start to get an idea of what your parts are going to run you, have everthing before you start the brake job.
If they wanted to replace the master cylinder, then I guess they suspect contaminated fluid probably from a corroaded plugger in the cylinder. So this is a priority in changing.
One other thing I must relay to you and I don't believe thet you would do this, but I have seen alot of other people do this.

"DO NOT APPLY GREASE, LUBE, OIL OR ANY OTHER SOLUTION TO THE BRAKING SURFACE OF THE ROTORS, DRUMS, PADS, SHOES"

Only use brake cleaner to remove the perservative/anti rust solution from rotors and drums braking surface after unpacking.

Anti squeal only is to be applied to the metal contacts of the calipers and back of the brake pads.

High temp grease is only to be applied to the metal to metal contacts of the shoes to backing plate (this is what the shoes attach to with the mounting hardware ie: springs & clips)

Hope this helps
Phil :cheers: