Valve adjustment

[valerit1]

Hi,

I have accord 87 LXI.

How long can the car go before valve adjustment is really needed - from your experience?

Any signs of it needed?

Any consecuences from not adjusting in time?

Thanks,



Val

[nswst8]

But I went ten years before I did my valve adjustment, just to give you some idea of how long you can go, it varys on driving conditions.
But the valve become noisy and loss of power and poor gas milage is the result of valves out of adjustment.
After I adjusted my valves I did notice better response and they did quieted down a bit.
Hope this helps,
Phil :cheers:

[Silver86LX]

Hmmm... maybe I should adjust my valves soon. Is it hard to do?

[pimp86LX]

i havn't done it myself, but i've read a few shop manuals and it seems pretty simplisitc.....easy to get wrong for a newb like myself, but simple none the less. I'm going to attempt one on my b20 soon....

[ET2]

it's pretty easy to do, take the spark plug's out it makes turning the engine over by hand a lot easyer

[Silver86LX]

How do you turn the engine over by hand? I know you have to position the pistons at TDC one at a time as you're working on each set of valves.

[nswst8]

Use a breaker bar @ least 1/2" drive, and take all the spark plugs out as suggested. Put the car in neutral and raise the car if you have the jacks.
Just take your time and you should have no problem.
Hope this helps
Phil :cheers:

[Silver86LX]

I know this may sound dumb, but how do you know when each piston is at TDC?

[nswst8]

This is the firing order of the engine, after you get the engine to TDC as you turn the crankshaft it rotates the camshaft, just rotate the camshaft 90 degrees at a time.
The marks on the camshaft line up with the heads edge to dictate TDC when you are at the correct point the woud "UP" can be seen in the 12 oclock position.
I don't type to well so I'm not going to try and describe the entire process. But a manual described this process in detail.
Hope this helps
Phil :cheers:

[1988starter]

look in the how to section for my cam shaft how to it gives pics and breefly goes over valve ajustment

[netfreak]

i havn't done it myself, but i've read a few shop manuals and it seems pretty simplisitc.....easy to get wrong for a newb like myself, but simple none the less. I'm going to attempt one on my b20 soon....

doing the adjustments on the b20a is fairly easy. just make sure you have the right clearance and tighten it till theres good friction. all you need is a 10 mm wrench and flathead screwdriver. you also may need a socket set or something with a longer handle to loosen the nuts.

[ct1982]

Hey... I just had the Head on my 86 LX ground including the valves... I have it all back together with a little noise from a couple of the valves... The shop manual says to adjust for Intake 0.005 - 0.007 and for Exhaust 0.010 - 0.012 Now shall I adjust to the middle of each of these? Like for Intake adjust them to 0.006, and for the exhaust to 0.011? What is going to make my engine run the best? Any advice? Tips? Would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!

[paul]

just reviving this old thread to see what valve adj. intervals you guys use...

It seems like if the mpg is good, and there's no valve'esque sounds, there would be no need to check the clearances (?)

[Dr_Snooz]

Every 15k miles. If the gap gets wider it's no sweat. If it closes, you can burn a valve. You don't want to burn a valve. And valves getting quiet means that the gaps are closing...

Dig it?

[LX-incredible]

I go through them every time I change a timing belt or perform a tune up. One of the easiest vehicles to adjust the valves imo.

[russiankid]

Every 15k miles. If the gap gets wider it's no sweat. If it closes, you can burn a valve. You don't want to burn a valve. And valves getting quiet means that the gaps are closing...

Dig it?

I don't hear my valves at all and the gaps are according to spec.:rockon:

[paul]

Thanks for the input guys!...

[Dr_Snooz]

I don't hear my valves at all and the gaps are according to spec.:rockon:

Bragger. I'm coming over to pee on your rims!

[GraniteLXI]

All of my valves are pretty loud and im guessing way out of spec, 168K and i have no idea when it was last adjusted.
I plan on getting mine adjusted and at the same time replace all the spark plugs, wires, and do a timing belt kit job (with tensioner) and a new water pump with that as well.

Out of curiosity what happens if you burn a valve? Or should I say how easy is the repair? lol

[zigzag]

so if the valves are adjusted according to spec and you still hear tapping then thats ok? right now mine are quiet except a faint noise from one.... but i know they most likely arnt adjusted to spec.... im making it my mission to check tomorrow since i have some time. i need to get them right for my next trip to houston for my grandpas funeral....

[Dr_Snooz]

You want the valves to be adjusted properly, regularly. Don't get too hung up on noise unless it's obvious something is wrong. That's the best I can give you because it's so subjective. I usually adjust mine pretty tight ("a lot of drag" instead of "slight drag") because I can't stand the racket otherwise.

[rfiks]

You want the valves to be adjusted properly, regularly. Don't get too hung up on noise unless it's obvious something is wrong. That's the best I can give you because it's so subjective. I usually adjust mine pretty tight ("a lot of drag" instead of "slight drag") because I can't stand the racket otherwise.
i adjusted my valves, i erred on the highest measurement "Chilton's" recommended and gave it a "slight drag". 2maro im guna re-adjust and give "alot of drag" because theres a little valve noise. but so far more power has resulted. after a week i cleaned up my dist. cap and rotor w/ sand paper for a little better spark. its probly all in my head, but i feel a little x-tra power after this also:rofl::nuts::dunno::kekeke:(any advice would be greatly appreciated! thanx in advance!)

[Dr_Snooz]

i adjusted my valves, i erred on the highest measurement "Chilton's" recommended and gave it a "slight drag". 2maro im guna re-adjust and give "alot of drag" because theres a little valve noise. but so far more power has resulted. after a week i cleaned up my dist. cap and rotor w/ sand paper for a little better spark. its probly all in my head, but i feel a little x-tra power after this also:rofl::nuts::dunno::kekeke:(any advice would be greatly appreciated! thanx in advance!)

If it's not too noisy, you're probably good. If you want, try going with "slight drag" on the tightest tolerance. It's a feel thing. After about the 50th time you've adjusted them, you'll have it down cold.

[DBMaster]

I like the go-no-go feeler gauge set. There are strips on mine that are .005-.007 and .010-.012. Those are the ones for my car. They seem easier because you can feel the drag over a range of clearance rather than a single clearance. It's hard to describe until you use them, but I like them much better than the single ones. Even with proper clearances you are going to hear a bit of rocker noise. That's to be expected with a non-hydraulic valve train. A pretty good Honda guy told me that if you adjust them tight enough to be very quiet that you have the clearances too tight and you risk a burned valve seat.

I check mine every 20K miles or so. I don't think I have ever had to change adjustments on all of them - maybe about half of them. The newer Hondas - like the Oasis van (Odyssey) I had only recommends checking valve clearance "when noisy." I also don't mess with pulling the spark plugs. The engine's harder to turn, but not that hard.

[rfiks]

well i still havent adjusted my valves yet:wtf::slap: ile get started 2maro morning to make sure the engines nice n cold. im still guna err on the highside but give more drag for a tighter adjustment.....(comments???)

[DBMaster]

When I used straight feeler gauges I used .006 for the intake and .011 for the exhaust. Since those numbers are in the middle of the range you can then allow a decent amount of drag without worrying so much about making them too tight. You should feel a "drag," but not a "scrape." The difference will actually be pretty clear once you get in there.

[rfiks]

im guna try that. thanx everyone for your advice! im adjusting and i will let u know when im done

[rfiks]

When I used straight feeler gauges I used .006 for the intake and .011 for the exhaust. Since those numbers are in the middle of the range you can then allow a decent amount of drag without worrying so much about making them too tight. You should feel a "drag," but not a "scrape." The difference will actually be pretty clear once you get in there.

well.. i bough some go-no-go feeler gauges and they seem to b thinner, i read oe of my old "Honda Tunning" (may 08 i think)and it suggests to err on the high side-so i did, now the noise is worse than b4. can Honda Tuning b wrong??? im guna take dbmasters advice, i will try again tomorrow after work.:dunno:

[Oldblueaccord]

It wll be a little noisy. There not the quitest motor. I got a you tube of mine running some where on there.



wp

[labeledsk8r]

I like the go-no-go feeler gauge set. There are strips on mine that are .005-.007 and .010-.012. Those are the ones for my car. They seem easier because you can feel the drag over a range of clearance rather than a single clearance. It's hard to describe until you use them, but I like them much better than the single ones. Even with proper clearances you are going to hear a bit of rocker noise. That's to be expected with a non-hydraulic valve train. A pretty good Honda guy told me that if you adjust them tight enough to be very quiet that you have the clearances too tight and you risk a burned valve seat.

I check mine every 20K miles or so. I don't think I have ever had to change adjustments on all of them - maybe about half of them. The newer Hondas - like the Oasis van (Odyssey) I had only recommends checking valve clearance "when noisy." I also don't mess with pulling the spark plugs. The engine's harder to turn, but not that hard.



were did you get that gauge.. i have used one once and loved it.. and never could find it.. i need to adjust the valves on the civic badly and wouldnt mind haveing a new tool to help

[DBMaster]

Auto Zone, I think. Not 100% sure.

[rfiks]

Auto Zone, I think. Not 100% sure.
rodger that! oem brand.

[rfiks]

ok i shammed out of work for a while and adjusted my valves (cold). and i put them at mid range and now my engine iznt as torqueee. still the same amount of noise though, im thinking i should adjust them again:eek: to get my torque back.....

[Dr_Snooz]

Ah, the joys of learning to adjust your valves. I remember it well...

[DBMaster]

I don't recall ever noticing any difference except on occasion hearing a little less valve train noise. They really don't get that far out of adjustment. Maybe that's a benefit with synthetic oil. I can't really say because that is all that has ever been used in this car.