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XxDark_AccordxX
04-19-2004, 12:22 PM
hopefully im in the right section here. I wrote a thread on this a while ago but it kinda dissapeared when 3geez went down for a lil bit.
ive been having a problem with my honda switching from 1st to 2nd gear. If feels like your running over a pothole which at first i thought was it till i paid more attention. The engine literally feels like its jumping, but only bwtween those gears. If i go really slow, it doesnt do it. Someone told me that its probably my engine mounts. Do you think thats what it is? and if so, how much do those run about? i heard they can be pretty expensive depending how theyre set up in the engine

'89AccordLX(Rus)
04-19-2004, 01:21 PM
There is a very good chance that the problem is caused by worn engine mounts. Here is a list of the mounts: Front closer to transmission (fluid filled), side mount on driver side closer to valve cover, rear mount below the intake manifold, and finally a torque strut at the top passenger side of the engine. (There is also a transmission mount, however it doesn't cause the problems that you are describing). The first and second gears are the low gears in the transmission, which means that the engine sends a lot more torque through the drivetrain in those gears. If the engine mounts are worn, the torque can cause the engine to lift or shift significantly. You won't notice it in higher gears because the torque is decreased. I think you may have a faulty front or rear mount. I doubt it is the torque strut because then you would feel and hear a "thud" every time you pushed on the gas or let off. If the front or rear mount is worn, it may allow the engine to move. I am leaning more towards your front engine mount being faulty because due to the engine's rotation direction, it attempts to rotate toward the firewall during acceleration, possibly lifting up at the front mount. If you want to test it, put on the parking brake and have someone try to take off in first gear. If the engine shifts or lifts significantly, the mount is shot. Also, if the mount has signs of fluid leakage, it needs to be replaced. Get only a fluid-filled replacement. There are solid rubber aftermarket mounts available, and they are often mistakenly installed. This results in increased vibration.

For pricing check out www.rockauto.com
Autozone and other retail stores may have the mounts as well.
Replacing the mounts is not extremely complicated. The mount nuts are loosened, engine is lifted until the mount can be removed, new mount is installed, engine lowered down and the nuts torqued to the appropriate specs. The Haynes manual and the electronic Shop Manual provide the information necessary if you would like to see a more detailed explanation. A shop would probably charge you quiet a bit to do the work.

Hope this helps.

XxDark_AccordxX
04-19-2004, 03:35 PM
hmm that makes sense. I heard it doesnt cost much, but they kill u on the labor. Someone also said my transmission could be going but i highly doubt that. For some reason when u try and take off in first when my parking brake is on, the car WILL go. i dont know if thats just mine, so ill hafta find another way. But thanx alot for your help

AccordEpicenter
04-20-2004, 12:51 PM
check your dogbone and top mount near the timing belt cover, i had the same things happening to me and both were shot. The one near the timing cover broke into 3 pieces when i took it off

NXRacer
04-20-2004, 12:58 PM
our cars have easy-to-change engine mounts. I'd suspect the 'dog bone' mount first. If you wiggle it and get more then about a 1/4" of play i'd suspect its going out. That one is the easiest of all to replace. the one by the timing belt cover is probably the hardest to replace and its not that hard.