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View Full Version : cheap bump, but can my amp do it, QUESTIONS!



my86dx4dr
04-19-2004, 05:09 PM
my 97 accord has a 250$ kenwood deck,
with stock speakers, i have a kenwood 600watt amp, my brother inlaw is offering to sell me his subs, 2 10" sony xplod dvc subs (2001 models) in a ported sub zero plexiglass window box, i have heard these subs, and i like them, i have heard AND seen bad thangs about sony subs, but he only wants 60$ for the loaded box,
i dont have alot of money, and i think this is a good deal,
question #1 for 60$ i think its a good deal, do you?
question #2 will my kenwood amp power these bridged?
question #3 would you sugest me put these in a sealed box? (have one)

how should i bridge these? there both dvc and the amp is bridgeable,

i will be getting new rear and front speakers later on this summer :violin:

zero.counter
04-19-2004, 05:14 PM
#1. Yes
#2. Good question, what model do you have?
#3. Depends on what sound you want produced. Sealed boxes need more power, which should not be a problem, but on the other hand are very responsive and tight for Jazz, Classical compositions, etc. Keep the ported box if you like the sound a little more omnidirectional and uncontrolled. Additionally, the subs may not work best for that type of enclosure (sealed) or maybe they will. Looks up the specs for them and check the recommended enclosure. :)

my86dx4dr
04-19-2004, 05:16 PM
its the kac-7285 amp, and im into tight clean bass more then loud distorted bass,

zero.counter
04-19-2004, 05:21 PM
That amp IS bridgeable, and sealed would be what you want for sound.

my86dx4dr
04-19-2004, 06:09 PM
so how should i bridge this setup? can someone do a draw up for the best possible way to bridge it?

zero.counter
04-19-2004, 06:25 PM
Usually, it's supposed to be RC(+ -) LC(+ -). You take the positive from the right channel and the negative from the left channel into the one speaker's + and -. There may also be a bridge selector on the amp.

MrBen
04-19-2004, 07:00 PM
This is a good reference for hooking up a sub. http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html#6dvcsp

I don't know the specs on your amp because I can't find any, and I by no means am an expert on hooking up car audio. However, I need to know what ohm your amp is stable at bridged. Usually it is either 2 or 4 ohms, so figure it out.

Generally, there are two ways to make each sub handle 2-ohm load -- parallel, which is done by taking each sub and wiring the positives together and the negatives together, and then hooking up your amp. OR... hooking it up in series, to make each sub a 4-ohm load. You run a wire between the positive and negative posts then hook your amp up to the remaining two posts, which are the only two with no connections.

Of course, you also need a power wire from the battery to the amp. Run this down one side of your car, and please don't go through the door jamb! Go through the firewall. Then you have your RCA's, which you run down the other side of your car. Also, you must have a ground wire that is about 2 feet long and the same guage as the power wire, and ground this to a bare metal spot in your trunk. Finally, you have your remote, which goes from the back of your deck to your amp, and you run it down the side of your car with your RCA's.

Additionally, I would use the biggest wire you can afford.

my86dx4dr
04-19-2004, 07:32 PM
This is a good reference for hooking up a sub. http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html#6dvcsp


Of course, you also need a power wire from the battery to the amp. Run this down one side of your car, and please don't go through the door jamb! Go through the firewall. Then you have your RCA's, which you run down the other side of your car. Also, you must have a ground wire that is about 2 feet long and the same guage as the power wire, and ground this to a bare metal spot in your trunk. Finally, you have your remote, which goes from the back of your deck to your amp, and you run it down the side of your car with your RCA's.

Additionally, I would use the biggest wire you can afford.
first off, thanks for the website, .....it didnt work :thumbdown :eatarrow: :D

second, i know how to wire an amp, i use 8 gauge wire, i have always run the power wire down the side of the car then into the firewall, (my deck went through the door jamb for a lil while, :thumbup: ) and then the rca's down the middle,

i will go to jlaudio.com now and look it up :banghead: :D

MrBen
04-19-2004, 07:35 PM
Works for me...

Try this http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html

shepherd79
04-20-2004, 04:13 AM
first off, thanks for the website, .....it didnt work :thumbdown :eatarrow: :D

second, i know how to wire an amp, i use 8 gauge wire, i have always run the power wire down the side of the car then into the firewall, (my deck went through the door jamb for a lil while, :thumbup: ) and then the rca's down the middle,

i will go to jlaudio.com now and look it up :banghead: :D

first of all lets talk about how you want to wire your subs. Since they are 4ohm DVC you can wire them two ways 4ohm or 1ohm setup.
the 4ohm setup will look something like this http://www.jbl.com/car/support/SubwooferWiring/2-4-4.asp
the 1ohm setup will look something like this. http://www.jbl.com/car/support/SubwooferWiring/2-4-2.asp
here is the problem: your amp is not stable at 1ohm so you will have to go with 4ohm wirring.

second of all i just want to say that 8gauge power wire is way too small for that amp. you need 4gauge wire to keep the power flowing without any restrictions. so do yourself and your amp a favor and get 4gauge wirring kit.
you can keep the 8gauge and run smaller 300 watt amp to power the speakers.

my86dx4dr
04-20-2004, 01:24 PM
you are the first person to tell me i need 4 gauge!
i was told 8gauge works great for 600w amps,
but THANKS now i have a reason to upgrade:D
and now the jlaudio link works, along with both thoughs jbl sites,
im going to but these subs in a week and hook them up at 4ohm's
thanks guys!

:cool: