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skippy344
07-15-2002, 05:01 PM
:confused: '88 Accord LX-i - What is the brand and model # of AC compressor and how many ounces of oil do I need to add if I am flushing it?

offthahook
07-16-2002, 05:39 PM
Either Nippodenso or Keihin. If you buy a new one, it will be a Sanden. Honda lost their minds when they split up stuff like distributors, AC compressors, fan assemblies, etc. I'd take it to Honda and ask them to tell you what you have under there; they can look right quick and tell you. Sorry that wasn't an answer, but it is.

skippy344
07-16-2002, 05:56 PM
Thanks Dude! I'll do that.

POS carb
07-28-2002, 08:12 PM
if you're converting to r-134 look for my retrofit post in general a while back, there's a specific model compressor listed that is compatible with r134 and also recommends converting to an r134-calibrated expansion valve

88floats
09-24-2003, 07:18 AM
If you have the "denso" you can find remans for about 200-300 bucks. If you have the kehin you will have trouble finding one that is reman, the easiest way is to convert to r-134 but that costs about 700 bucks.

Mac
09-24-2003, 04:59 PM
Not sure what compressor you have. As far as how much oil you need, I tried to find that answer a while back and never got a straight answer. Since then I found in the shop manual a close answer. Here's what the manual says:

Add refrigerant oil after replacing the following parts:
Condenser 30 cc (1 oz.)
Evaporator 60 cc (2 oz.)
Line or Hose 10 cc (1/3 oz.)
Receiver 10 cc (1/3 oz.)
Compressor When a new compressor is installed, drain 30 cc (1 oz) of refrigerant oil, unless you are replacing any of the above parts. Then pro rate the amount you drain by the amount you should add for the other part (s).

I think they are assuming that the comp is coming wet (oil already installed). Not all comps come wet. Alot are dry.

If you are replacing comp I would add 1 or 2 oz to it (if it comes dry) and rotate to get the oil all thru it before installing.

My guess would be at least 4 ozs. to the whole system.

88LX-iSedan
09-25-2003, 10:30 AM
The Brand/Model is behind the shroud on the compressor, Just remove the shroud then you'll see it.

DBMaster
09-25-2003, 10:39 AM
Actually, mine has a sticker on under the hood just in front of thee radiator to the immediate left of the windshiled washer tank fill cap. - The sticker states which brand of compressor was installed in the car.

Remember, the Keihin compressor is not suitable for use with R134a (due to use of Viton seals). I would either go the Sanden route (which I did) or put in a reman Denso.

Poodlehead
04-04-2004, 06:14 AM
Can you tell me what kind of oil goes in the compressor and possibly how much? I've got another used Keihn that I am going to try before spending the big bucks on a new system. I intend on flushing everything and replace with new oil. The manual covers the other components well, but not the compressor or 'type' of oil to use. I'm going back with R12. Thanks!

Mac
04-04-2004, 06:53 AM
If you are staying with R 12 use mineral oil. If you completely flush all the old oil you will need to add approx. 3.5 to 4 ozs. Since you are planning on flushing the system it might be a good idea to change all the o-rings while the system is empty. It is also recommended to change the receiver/dryer whenever you open an A/C line. It helps to keep moisture out of system.

Vinny
04-04-2004, 07:10 AM
The compressor is listed as taking 2.7 oz the listing can be found in the front part of the service manual. I beleive its in the capacities section. If you are completely flushing I would add the additional oil to each component directly,
Condenser 1 oz
Evaporator 2oz
Line or Hose 1/3 oz
Receiver 1/3 oz

Poodlehead
04-04-2004, 08:23 AM
I saw the other capacities, but not the compressor. Since the compressor on it is locked up, I figure it will be best to flush the entire system, replace all o-rings, drier and add the correct amount of oil to the system and charge with R12. I've got a used Keihn compressor that seems to have good suctions and compression so I'm hoping...

I've just found an 8 oz can of Ester 100 Synthetic polyol ester lubricant. The label shows that it's comapatible with R12/R-134a. Do you think this will be OK or should I stick strictly with mineral oil (maybe this is the same). That's it for the questions... :) Thanks again!

Vinny
04-04-2004, 08:26 AM
Personally I think you should stick to mineral oil only. Use dielecric grease on the O rings when you change them and wear rubber gloves so the oil from your hands doen't get on the O rings. Just friendly advice.

Mac
04-04-2004, 08:31 AM
Yep, I agree with Vinny. Real good advice. Don't forget to pull a good long vacuum.

skull1441
04-04-2004, 08:42 PM
:confused: '88 Accord LX-i - What is the brand and model # of AC compressor and how many ounces of oil do I need to add if I am flushing it?

i almost replaced my compressor cus i thought IT was no good .. but replaced a relay on the passenger side next to the radiator and it worked .

Vinny
04-05-2004, 04:39 AM
2 most important things when performing ANY A/C work that requires open lines. Don't forget to change out the receiver (or filter/drier as its also called). Its very important that it be changed out. Also pull a good vacuum for atleast 45 minutes. This will remove any moisture and air in the system, as well as finding any leaks. Its also a good idea to ask in advance if the shop has a freon sniffer. They can detect VERY small leaks that you won't see with a vacuum. It isn't cheap to do A/C work right but its alot cheaper than short cutting and having to do it over and over. Especially when R-12 is 30 bucks or so a lb.