High Output Alternator

[DeathRat]

Okay now that I have my neon & LEDs, I've noticed after about an hour at night, that my "Charging" light comes on now. :sad2: I've tested the whole system during the day & all is fine. I'm even running a truck battery for more back up power. The question I have is this >>>>>> Is there a direct bolt on higher output Alternator for the A20A1???? :dunno: With all my LEDs, Neon & High Wattage bulbs.....I'm sucking the alternator dry. It's presently the stock 65Amp, which is fine during the day (lights are off). I've looked into a custom built & custom mounted, but that's like $500 CAN!!!!! :thumbdown What OTHER choices do I have? Can I run a different Honda Alternator from another model & year?

[smufguy]

well if u would have hit the search you would have gotten your question answered, even before u asked it. Well anyway, lemme fill you in. Green Mean alternators are high output alternators made to replace the stock alt. THe Mean Green alts put out upwards of 100 amps and they are about $300 to $400 USDM.

You can also get a 4th gen accord alternator which is 80 amps, i have this alternator, and drop it in. The lower bracket is perfect fit, but the tilt of the alternator is akward so the top bracket wont line up and hence u gotta make it fit. Besides, you need a different belt for this mod with the 4th gen alt.

[DeathRat]

well if u would have hit the search you would have gotten your question answered, even before u asked it. Well anyway, lemme fill you in. Green Mean alternators are high output alternators made to replace the stock alt. THe Mean Green alts put out upwards of 100 amps and they are about $300 to $400 USDM.

You can also get a 4th gen accord alternator which is 80 amps, i have this alternator, and drop it in. The lower bracket is perfect fit, but the tilt of the alternator is akward so the top bracket wont line up and hence u gotta make it fit. Besides, you need a different belt for this mod with the 4th gen alt.
The aftermarket Alts, I was already aware of...hence the $500 CAN up here! :mad:
I was looking for more info on brackets though (maybe I should have refrased my question better, sorry) & thanx for that info. :rockon:
I'm looking for about 105Amps MIN, perfer about 120Amps. This way, all my electrical needs can be met (present & future). :cool:
I can get aftermarket Alts made up here. The problem arises with the "STATOR" & the "MOUNTING". The Stators I can get are larger than the stock Honda ones & the Honda stock case doesn't give much room in there. The mounting of a HO Alt is an entirely different issue. I rebuild my own alternators usually, but the custom fabricating of the brackets, I'm not so good at though.

[Bloodlust]

FYI Mean green alternators can be found at:

http://www.mean-green.com/products/alternator.html

I have one myself, my lights still dim but I havent fried it yet so thats a good sign.

[DeathRat]

FYI Mean green alternators can be found at:

http://www.mean-green.com/products/alternator.html

I have one myself, my lights still dim but I havent fried it yet so thats a good sign.
Thanx Bloodlust....BUT I'm looking more for Mounting Alternates, as I have mentioned in my second post.

[customandsound]

you can do what i did in my monte..... i mounted 1 in the stock place and i got a140 amp 1 wire gm mounted where the ac compress use to go ....i am thinking about doing it to my accord .... i started to mount the neon's on the interior and i still need to do the engine bay and the underside ...... now if i can figure how to hook a smoke machine up so it blow's under i will have some thing going

[Justin86]

you could get it built up at certain shops for cheaper

[AccordEpicenter]

i got a 140 amp rewound alt off one of the guys on ebay... it supported a 1250wrms system and neons with no dimming but itd have to be revved to 1500-2000rpm for full output, it puts out next to nothing below 1000rpms...

[Justin86]

yea anything better then stock. MY shit dims with just my HU and infinity speaks, it drives me crazy but it does look kind of cool cause they dim with the beat.

[DeathRat]

i got a 140 amp rewound alt off one of the guys on ebay... it supported a 1250wrms system and neons with no dimming but itd have to be revved to 1500-2000rpm for full output, it puts out next to nothing below 1000rpms...
Did it bolt straight in?
Any manufacturer on it?

[Elijah]

Talk to the guys at A1 starters and alternators. They have worked some magic for me before. We used to get them to do alot of customers alternators. When we upgraded things.

[smufguy]

I believe the secondary alternator in place of the AC compressor was already talked about. I wonder how an alternator would fit, without any mod or even line up to our stupid ac bracket, good thing i still have it. BUt its still more rotatinal equipments. I want an high output alt too.

[DeathRat]

Talk to the guys at A1 starters and alternators. They have worked some magic for me before. We used to get them to do alot of customers alternators. When we upgraded things.
I dealt with Cooper Bros. here on the South Side before as I trust their work & advice. The Alternator itself isn't the issue really, as I CAN make anyone work if had too. The Brackets are the REAL issue here though. If it was a RWD, I would just add another Alternator to the trans tail shaft as they do in Nascar & be done with it by now.

Looks like some $$$ is gonna have to be spent on R&D right away after all.....

[AccordEpicenter]

it was a stock alt that was rewound, so it was like replacing it with a stock alt. I cant remember the guys name on ebay... It worked well but put almost nothing out at less than 1000 rpms, and im sure 140amps was a cold value, warm itd prolly put out 120amps or so

[blahblahblah]

what did it do under 1000rpms? Atlest as much as stock right? ....I got a 3farad cap for my system and a Yellow top batt....But I have neons, modded fog lights, strobs, (in the works)2 Screens, and a PS2 to run......I dont have this in yet. Just making sure its all going to work right the 1st time.

[AccordEpicenter]

Umm it barely put out anything, so the battery light would come on if the car was left at idle with the lights on for a half hour or more... when youre rolling thru town even with the system drawing 100amps and your lights on including neons... nothing dimmed even with no caps at all... thats what we call good grounds and good cabling with sufficient alternator size

[HostileJava]

Other then audio systems and heavy duty Fog/Headlights you should not need to upgrade your charging systems to handle LED's/Neons/LCD's, or anything else of that nature, they draw very little current to begin with and really are negligable. If you are having problems with only these low current devices running then there is somthing wrong with your charging system.

[Ludi Mali]

not sure if you've done this yet, but it stopped my 1100wrms system from dimming my lights with just a diehard battery.
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801

[DeathRat]

I have the problem after my H4's are on for more than a hour or so it seems. I've tried it with & without the LEDs & neon on too. My guess it's the H4's (55/100W) bulbs. I don't have any sort of problem during the day if the headlights are off at all either. I am using the stock wiring harness for the headlights at present, but that shouldn't effect the charging system. The Alternator just can't seem to keep up with the power the H4's are requiring it seems. :thumbdown

I'm still looking into other alternatives for the Stock 60/65Amp Alternator replacement too. I feel a mininum of 120Amps should be sufficient. I just need to find a way to mount a larger Amp Alternator in it stock Alternator's place though. The wiring harness, I can modify easy enough to make it work on ANY Alternator I choose. I need "Custom" Mounting Brackets! :rolleyes:

PS: I'm already using a Battery from a Full Sized Ford Crown Victoria ALREADY!

[HostileJava]

Well even if there on hibeam all the time your only drawing about 14 more amps then stock so if you can make that difference up some how you should be good.

[DeathRat]

Well even if there on hibeam all the time your only drawing about 14 more amps then stock so if you can make that difference up some how you should be good.
I don't even use the highbeams at present though. :dunno:
The Alt light comes on when idling below 1000 RPMs (95% of the time). :rolleyes:
I'm planning on moving the battery to the trunk soon, but want this problem solved first though. :sad2:

[DeathRat]

You can also get a 4th gen accord alternator which is 80 amps, i have this alternator, and drop it in. The lower bracket is perfect fit, but the tilt of the alternator is akward so the top bracket wont line up and hence u gotta make it fit. Besides, you need a different belt for this mod with the 4th gen alt.
Does the 4th gen utilize any other higher output alternator?

[smufguy]

Does the 4th gen utilize any other higher output alternator?

mike (bloodlust) got a mean green alt ,which is an upwards of 300 bux and his is like 120amps or something. U can also get ur stock alt rewound to math the amperage ur looking for, its not that hard. Besides, i dont know of any high output alt that the 4g uses. The only problem i have so far is the top bracket bolt keeps snapping off. I use the house hold carrige bolt. the shitty alloy crap. But im looking to get a galvanized steel or even a stainless steel bolt that would be awsome. I might end up making a different bracket for the alternator tentioner from either the block to the alt or the firewall to the alt. Im not sure. So yeah, it should be good.

[DeathRat]

mike (bloodlust) got a mean green alt ,which is an upwards of 300 bux and his is like 120amps or something. U can also get ur stock alt rewound to math the amperage ur looking for, its not that hard. Besides, i dont know of any high output alt that the 4g uses. The only problem i have so far is the top bracket bolt keeps snapping off. I use the house hold carrige bolt. the shitty alloy crap. But im looking to get a galvanized steel or even a stainless steel bolt that would be awsome. I might end up making a different bracket for the alternator tentioner from either the block to the alt or the firewall to the alt. Im not sure. So yeah, it should be good.

Try finding a GRADE 8 BOLT instead of that Grade 3! It doesn't have to be stainless, as most are just GRADE 5's! Grade 8's are the hardest bolts around (used as head bolts, etc).

I can a custom Alt here for just under $500 CDN already, but the brackets have to modified to allow it to bolt in.

[smufguy]

one thing that bolt neads to take is side loading. Not axial loading. The stock braket bolt is my tensioner bolt now and i just have a carrige bolt passin thru the bracket and the top alternator hole to get the tension right.

But i got ur specs on bolts, ill try to find it.

[DeathRat]

Well I've solved the problem......well hopefully! :ugh:
I get my car back tomorrow! It's getting a custom mounted 160 Amp HO Alternator installed! :rockon: The 120 Amp I wanted wouldn't fit right, so the shop went with the 160 Amp for a wee bit more $$$ instead. Good news is, when it's all done, if I ever sell the car, I can re-install the stock Alternator again without any evidence of the HO Alternator ever being there! The bad news is the actual cost to myself to get this all done! I've heard anywhere up to $800 CAN to do this job due to the Stock Alternator being a real pita to remove in my car (2.0L Carbed A20A1). :thumbdown :uh:

I should be able to manufacture the brackets when done hopefully to help others out with this swap in the future though.... :cool:

I'll keep you posted on the results after I get it back tomorrow too! :lol:

[DeathRat]

Well the new HO Alternator is perfect! :rockon:
It was tested at: 60 Amps @ Idle / 130+ Amps @ 2000 RPM.
Only one bracket had to be changed (the adjuster) the rest was used to mount the new HO Alt. Even the stock belt was used too! The ultimate cost was $920 CAN though, due to had to re-wire the electric choke, plus the actual labour to Re&Re the stock unit & make the new HO Alt fit. The cost doesn't worry me though, it was worth it! Here is what it looks like in the car......

[AccordEpicenter]

The ultimate cost was $920 CAN though

HOLY SHIT!!! Couldnt you have just had the stock one rewound or somthing? My rewind was putting out the same amount of power

[DeathRat]

HOLY SHIT!!! Couldnt you have just had the stock one rewound or somthing? My rewind was putting out the same amount of power
Parts to rewind the stock were out of the USA at present, plus the labour was about the same anyways. The major cost was Labour though, mostly due to my car is a 2.0L Carb. Therefore it took more time to re&re, plus rewire the choke, switch the pigtail, measure for the new bracket & pulley resize to make the stock belt work too.

The actual cost of the HO Alt was only $325.00 CAN! :) The rest was labour, shop supplies & GST! :thumbdown

[AccordEpicenter]

oh... i see

[RED LXI]

You guys are spending too much on alternators!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I dont know exactly what year it is but I bought an acura legend alternator that bolts up perfectly except for the need of a couple of washer at the top mount bracket. I think its an 93 or 94 becaus I remember trying an 89 and the alternator clip plugin was different. I have a 2500 watts stereo system and I can play it at full blast without the light even dimming in the night( I mean not even a little dim!!!) i WISH i KNEW EXACTLY WHICH ALTERNATOR THIS IS. ALL i KNOW IS THAT IT WORKS GREAT ANT IT COME FROM AN ABOVE 89 LEGEND. AT FIRST i WAS WORRIED THAT THE HIGHER APERAGE MIGHT MESS WITH THE CAR BUT iVE BEEN RUNNING THIS ALTERNATOR FOR 2 YEARS NOW AND IT WORKS LIKE NEW. :rockon:

[DeathRat]

I don't even have a stereo system installed yet! My H4's killed my stock 60 Amp Alternator. This one puts out 60 Amps at base idle alone & well over 130 Amps at 2000 RPMs too! I got this one because I want to install more LEDs & Neons, plus run a kicker stereo system too!

[smufguy]

Yo red, if u got the 93 legend alternator. then that shit is like 110 amps. Was it a bolt on? its only 90 bux from autozone, but bad thing is i already got an alternator (4g accord) its only 80 amps but i paid 75 bux for it.

Was there any major fitment issues to it. and what kinda belt did u use?

[Slavic]

I dont know exactly what year it is but I bought an acura legend alternator that bolts up perfectly except for the need of a couple of washer at the top mount bracket. I think its an 93 or 94 becaus I remember trying an 89 and the alternator clip plugin was different.

That's good info, thanks. To the best of my knowledge there is only one generation of Leged after 89 that being 91-95. http://www.intellichoice.com doesn't list Legend after 95.

RED LXI, please give more part/instalation specifics if you can.

My idle drops by ~100 RPMs when I switch the fan on, another ~100 when I turn the lights on (~50 for low beam) and yet another ~100 when the radiator fan kicks in. Stepping on the brake rocks the idle too, so I keep it at the bottom of the 1000 line. I'm guessing I need a new alternator as it continued to do that after I replaced the worn brushes. Might as well upgrade it.

Off topic, but anyone agree or disagree with my diagnosis?

[blahblahblah]

Yes, RED......NEED MORE INFO.........N E E D M O R E

[88accordalltheway]

yea red, give more i want to replace my alt cause my new battery keep on getting drained after about 3 or 4 months with just my little 650 watt amp hooked up to it.

[RED LXI]

sorry for taking forever to reply, I havn't checked this thread in a while. Anyway I bought the alternator from an alternator rebuilt shop. The alternator came out of a 95or96 legend. the alternator is easy to recognize because it is the only legend alternator that the 3 gee belt can fit perfectly and also uses the same clip in the back,(the others I tested either one or the other was incompatible) It may look a little big but it fits perfectly and has more than enough space to fit it in (fits more like the real alternator for the car, instead of the toy it came with). the only modification you will have to do is add a coupl of washers to the top pulley, to ensure than the alternator/belt is straight. trust me it makes a big difference and Iv'e been running it for over 2 years now, with the systen, without a problem,...NO batery light,...and no dimming whatsoever. :rockon:

[guaynabo89]

sorry for taking forever to reply, I havn't checked this thread in a while. Anyway I bought the alternator from an alternator rebuilt shop. The alternator came out of a 95or96 legend. the alternator is easy to recognize because it is the only legend alternator that the 3 gee belt can fit perfectly and also uses the same clip in the back,(the others I tested either one or the other was incompatible) It may look a little big but it fits perfectly and has more than enough space to fit it in (fits more like the real alternator for the car, instead of the toy it came with). the only modification you will have to do is add a coupl of washers to the top pulley, to ensure than the alternator/belt is straight. trust me it makes a big difference and Iv'e been running it for over 2 years now, with the systen, without a problem,...NO batery light,...and no dimming whatsoever. :rockon:


You have to add washers to the pulley or the bracket?

Cause in your previous post you said bracket.

[88accordalltheway]

its mustve came out of a 95 cause slavic said there wasnt such thing as a ledgend after 95. Im not sure of this, im jsut going off what he said.

[smufguy]

its mustve came out of a 95 cause slavic said there wasnt such thing as a ledgend after 95. Im not sure of this, im jsut going off what he said.

he is true. There was no Acuras sold as Legend after 95, they were sold and are still selling as RL from 96 in the US.

[RED LXI]

Sorry for the confusion, you will need washer on the top bracket, everything else lines up properly. I guess its a 95 since there are no 96 Legends just RL's................ or Legend RL.... :uh: ?

[blahblahblah]

95's? ant them there V6?

[88accordalltheway]

what would the engine size matter?

[Hondacrazy]

That alt works really well in deathrats car. I am going to do the same upgrade.

[2old_honda]

hey deathrat, do you know what car that alt originally came from? or do you have any part numbers for it? I would be really interested to know. thanks

[DeathRat]

hey deathrat, do you know what car that alt originally came from? or do you have any part numbers for it? I would be really interested to know. thanks
It's a CUSTOM REBUILD based upon a GM Alternator as I can tell. :sad2:
They used the upper mount & just "shimmed" it & changed the lower bracket. My Alternator still uses the STOCK BELT too BTW! :rockon:
The specs are 60Amps at base idle, 130+Amps at 2000 RPM & is rated as a 160Amp Alternator for maximum output. The Alternator was worth $325.00 CAN my cost.
http://www.3geez.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3335&stc=1

[Slavic]

Wanted to update this thread with some price finds. I got the alternator off of my parts car and, of course, it's bad so I was researching pricing.

The best deal (...well the best deal for me) was $50 for a used one at a junk yard ($60, $70 and $75 finds as well). Tested great we'll see how long it lasts.

For those looking for a new or remanufactured part the best deal seems to be NSA Part # ALT6202 $168.79 + S&H ($0 core charge - it's a new alternator, not remanufactured).

For those who have a core and value a lifetime warranty Worldwide Reman (ufactured) 14992 at 186.79 + S&H ($90.00 core charge - Shipping charges on cores aren't refundable) from rockauto.com may be the best deal since it comes with Lifetime Warranty as confirmed by Sam of rockauto.com

Now since I will be installing this alternator shortly please let me know if there's anything else I should be replacing at the same time so as to avoid any malfunctions.

I will be putting in a bigger battery.

[smufguy]

slavic, the different alternator u are gonna be replacing, is it an OEM replacement alternaotor or is it a different alternator made to fit our cars? The only thing i changed with my alternator is the belt. So check on that.

[HondaBoy]

$50 from a junk yard sounds kinda high. i could probley pick one up for $20 from the place i go.

[ICEMAN707]

I DUNNO WHICH LEGEND ALT. MATCHES THE 3gee, CAN ANYONE SEE?

86-90 legend alternator:
http://i8.ebayimg.com/03/i/02/6b/fb/0a_1.JPG
the cap & plugs on this one seems to match the 3gee's

91-95 legend alternator:
http://i17.ebayimg.com/03/i/02/6b/8b/c6_1.JPG
the pulley on this one seems to match the 3gee's, i dunno about the plugs

3gee alternator:
http://i21.ebayimg.com/02/i/02/89/cb/27_1.JPG

[Slavic]

Guess I should have been more specific. ALL the alternators I was referring to in my last post are 110 amp rated alternators for the 91-95 Acura Legend which, according to RED LXI, is a bolt on replacement only modification required being adding "a couple of washers to the top pulley (bracket), to ensure than the alternator/belt is straight".

With that in mind I don't think $50 is a bad deal seeing how I didn't find a new or remanufactured 91-95 Acura Legend alternator for less then $168.79 + S&H. The one I got is Denso from a 93 Legend.

So anything else I need to upgrade or worry abou? Will it burn my fuses and melt stuff? The alternator tested at over 150 amps max.

[smufguy]

So anything else I need to upgrade or worry abou? Will it burn my fuses and melt stuff? The alternator tested at over 150 amps max.

i dont think u would need to upgrade the fuese slavic. They should be fine. power output from these high output alternators are close to stock, but their reliablity in power output is great. As in the time taken to charge up a dead battery or support of other stuff is reliable. This means u wont overload ur systems and such. So u dont have to worry about anything else.

NOTE: Make sure the serpentine belt (stripe count) is the same. Just count how many our stock belt has or take the old belt with you and see if it fits on the alternator ur buying. Or if the pullies are different and the alternaor itself drops in or is close enough, i would say just swap the pullies.

Other than that, u should be good.

[Slavic]

OK, so I wanted to post this before I lost interest and got my attention diverted to the many more important things such as reading the two books that reveal the bank fraud perpetrated on us by the international globalist bankers, books that everyone should familiarize themselves with. Free chapters and some audio found here: http://www.bankhonesty.com/freechapters.shtml

I had to replace my alternator so that's why I tested the Acura Legend one.

So does the 91-95 Acura Legend alternator fit the 3G bracket? NO
Can it be rigged into the place of the stock alternator with minimal modifications? YES

I have put almost 70 miles on it since installation and while I have some belt noise (which was silenced some with 7UP - Sprite wasn't on sale) I belive it to be due to me not wanting to over tighten the belt and kill the alternator not because it doesn't align.

If you are willing to tolerate the upper mounting bracket being angled to accommodate the larger 91-95 Acura Legend alternator (at least using the Denso type) below are the installation instructions.

First of all if you are carbed (assuming you have to remove the axle to get the alternator in and out) good luck getting that sucker in there. Plan on doing it when you need to change your oil so that the filter and oil hose that's in that area won't block it and you may be able to squeeze it in, though I'm not claiming you will. Of course only after I removed the axle and realized I can't squeze it in without removing the filter and the oil hose did I remember someone saying something along the lines of "You FI guys have it easy having only to remove the filter box".

For FI cars:

You'll need sockets and/or wrenches 10, 12, 13 and 14 (if I remember well).

Snips or a saw to cut the ring on the terminal wire and pliers or some such to widen and shape it into a C shape.

It might be necessary to use a longer adjusting bolt. I used the Acura one which is longer, so I can't say if the original adjusting bolt would be suficient, but it looked very short so I strongly suggest a longer one.

A couple of larger nuts and/or a few washers are needed on the adjusting bolt between the inner side of the bracket and the alternator so as to keep the alternator properly angled once the adjusting bolt is tightened.


- Remove the air filter box by removing the intake pipe, loosening the 5 clips and removing the cover and the filter and then the rest of the housing by removing the two screws on the top and the two hoses attached to it on the driver side of the box.

- Remove the old alternator (loosen the adjusting nut - the one used to adjust the belt tension, loosen and remove the adjusting bolt - upper mounting bolt, the one that attaches the alternator to the upper bracket and pivot bolt - the one that attaches the alternator to the lower bracket, loosen and remove terminal nut and wire and disconnect the green wire harness plug)

- Cut the top of the ring on the terminal wire and widen it into a C shape so as to make it fit the wider terminal of the 91-95 Acura Legend alternator.

- Loosen the top and side bolts securing the top mount bracket (it is not possible to fit the 91-95 Acura Legend alternator, at least not the Denso type with the mounting bracket in stock position. It has to be tilted upwards to fit the larger alternator leaving the top bracket angled)

- Plug in the original green wire harness and attach the modified terminal wire to the 91-95 Acura Legend alternator and put the alternator in the lower bracket using the original pivot bolt and nut

- Re apply the adjusting bolt or a longer replacement using a couple of larger nuts and/or a few washers between the inner side of the bracket and the alternator so as to keep it properly angled once the adjusting bolt is tightened. Do not tighten the adjusting bolt or the two mounting bracket bolts completely until final belt tension adjustment has been made.

- Put the belt back in place and tighten the adjusting nut to desired belt tension.

- Once you have the belt tensioned correctly tighten the adjusting bolt and the two mounting bracket bolts completely.

- Put the air filter assembly back in and you're done.

Edit:

BTW my idle problem is still there. It just kind of hesitates, erratically oscillates in a 100 RPM range sometimes when it's hot sometimes cold. Got new plugs, no codes, cleaned with seafoam, motor flush...

Another question I wanted to ask that's related is if I would be able to benefit from the 4 prong spark plugs now that I have a more powerful alternator. Going by what someone pointed out, that once it's found the shortest way if there's enough power spark will utilize any other available way it would mean that I may be able to get 4 times the spark power going with the more powerful alternator.

[Slavic]

Iceman, the pulley on that 86-90 legend alternator loks diferent but if you replaced that it may fit. 91-95 most definitely can be used and it is more powerful than the 86-90 version.

[Oldblueaccord]

I might be able to add a couple things:

LED's draw much less current (amps) then a standard blub thats why there so popular plus they are brighter. Neon should draw much either. Not sure if its actually really neon or fluorescent bulbs which defintely draw low current.

Summit racing sells many differant high amp altenators based on the GM style. There's a 100 amp one for like $100 if I remember been a while. That appears to be the one pictured in the car.

You can change the pully to your 3g ,of course if the shaft is right, so you can run the stock belt.

I have a yellow top Optima batery that runs about 13.3 volts at rest this higher voltage helps with voltages spikes form high amp loads etc.


I would very much recommed when going to a high amp altenator make sure the WIRING can handle the addtional amps. I usually run a large guage wire straight of the main terminal of the altenator to the positive side of the battery. This keeps the lighter guage wires from seeing high current loads. Dont ask how I figured this out :sad2:



wp

[mykwikcoupe]

on the park plug thingy. Not science until you get into heat ranges. basically
platnum is used for LONG service intervals as it takes longer to wear. Poor power.

Copper, silicon, or carbon are the most conductive so if it was possible to get a spark plug made os carbon that would be my choice. since theres none to my knowledge Id go with a regular plug maybe a splitfire. the plug themselve only change whats givien to them. if you really want good spark control go with a msd unit. 15 sparks per rev. almost 30% more voltage output meaning those same plugs would make 30% more spark on top of that. Or at least go with a hotter coil. The problem with this is that a coil is firing 4 times every rev and at say 3k rpm that 12000 spark/minute. it gets heat soaked and looses its ability to create as hot of a spark. hence coil paks. if you could adapt a coil/ cylinder with a msd unit youd be set in the spark department. Since Im not even going that far. id say get some nice plugs not platnum. keep them gapped properly and clean, get some good plug wires not the el cheapo deluxes. look for something with a carbon core, silicone jacket and long heat isolators. Magnacore is what I prefer but I hear the NGKs arnt bad maybe go with an accel coil at the very least. let me know if it helped ata ll. thast whay Id say

[smufguy]

silicon is a non conductor and carbon is a non conductor too. Graphite (carbon based) is a semiconductor.

our ignition coils are capacitive discharge and one coil is not great enough to recharge every single time it discharges. Thats why we get coil packs.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

I don't know why almost everyone thinks MSD is the best. It's pratically one of the worst to get unless you get there digital system but even then other companies have a just as good if not better digital ignition system for less money. MSD is has been given a good name by all the ricers b/c where do you think they saw that on? F&F possibly?

[Johnny O]

I have an 110 amp altern. at 1000 rpm that is made for our carsn and I am looking to get rid of it.I am changing over to 16 volt system on the car and the piece no longer needed.The alter. is is perfect,it was only in car for 3 to 4 months.I am looking for $200 for it.Let me know if anybody is interrested in it.

[joker2]

I might have to try this out.... :cool:

[DeathRat]

My HO Alt is a Delco CS130 Style Alternator that's been rewound. I'll be swapping it over to my Cavalier & therefore swapping the Cavalier's present 90Amp Alternator over to the Accord. I'm doing this as the Accord will be going up for sale shortly.

[FyreDaug]

I'm looking for something to possibly upgrade my alternator. I run a computer, home theater amp and a 200(400)w sub/amp. I dont really get dimming, but I had to raise my idle to just above 1000 to keep up with my system when I have the bass on. It stays around 14.1-14.2V while its running. No system on I get 14.7V. However if I have my headlights on, brake lights on and my system on (as if I'm sitting at a red light) it drops into 12's.

It very slightly dims my dash and thats all I can notice. I plan on upgrading my speakers to some mb quarts which will probably take more power as I can supply each speaker (in a 6.1 setup) 90w. My inverter reads <200W with the computer and amp on while its cranked. So its not drawing too much considering the system I'm running (+ my sub) but it kinda scares me when I see 12V on my inverter when the cars running. Havent had a charging light come on yet though.

[ICEMAN707]

These guys make a 170 amp alternator for our cars:

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/sports_compact.html

[3rdCoast]

Can u guys tell tell me what u think about this.......http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-89-Honda-Accord-High-Output-Alternator-160-AMPS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33573QQitemZ800179 4546QQrdZ1 im thinkin about gettin it cuz my old alt died on me and im puttin a system in the car so i might as well get somethin that can handle it. If u know something better let me know. This one seems good to me and not too much $$$$ thnx in advance for any input on the matter......

[snow_man_20]

first HO alternator i have seen for the 3gee. Hummm..

[smufguy]

u can get a 120amp legend alternator. hit the search, you might find the exact legend years that is compatible. A lot cheaper than these so called aftermarket alts.

[3rdCoast]

well already ordered this one and they said the alt will put out 80-90amps at idle speed....i'll make a post after i get it in and workin and let everybody who's interested know if i think it was a good buy and does the trick for me..

[bobafett]

interesting. do keep us posted.

[3rdCoast]

hey anybody got any alternator pix?? I was sent the wrong invoice and possibly the wrong alternator and i wanna comapare what i got with the pix of what it should look like to make sure i just got the wrong invoice and not the part..... On the back of our alts they have a circle harness plug right? The alt i recieved has a rectangular plug will that work????

[FyreDaug]

Aslong as you can get the pins to line up there wont be a problem. You dont really have to worry about the plug. Just the thicker guage wire ontop of the alternator as thats all that charges the system, the other ones are just warning things AFAIK. I didnt have mine on for a while (carbed) and it didnt make a difference. I got an efi alt when itshould have been a carbed one, so there was an extra pin. Maybe thats the only difference? I think mine were different shapes aswell

[FyreDaug]

I wonder if its a re-wind. It said "we can make any alternator or starter into high output..."

[smufguy]

I hope the image works, if not, go here http://www.accordproject.com/how%20to/efi%20conversion/alternatordiff.jpg if it does not work either. go to my website, click how-to, go down to efi-conversion, and scroll down to the pics


http://www.accordproject.com/how%20to/efi%20conversion/alternatordiff.jpg

[FyreDaug]

^^ Good pic, that should be stuck somewhere

[3rdCoast]

It could be a rewound but the alt is very clean and looks brand new. It could just be me but the new alt looks kinda big. The shape looks right and the connection locations seem to be in the right place i guess i would have to get the stock one out to compare. Its pretty heavy too.....oh sorry for not knowing this but what is "AFAIK"?????

[smufguy]

As Far As I Know = AFAIK

Also, the images on the websites and catalogues do not corrolate to the actual part anyway. Unless otherwise stated, what you get is not what you see, but that does not mean, you will be screwed in the transaction either. But mistakes do happen, so always call up and double check when ordering parts that you are nto sure of.

[3rdCoast]

i did some lookin around and found out i also got the wrong part i got a 2000 dodge stratus alt. :uh:

[smufguy]

if the clip was wrong, obviously its the wrong alternator, and its pretty much a given. but yeah, cancel it and read up on the high output alternator and the legend years and get that. Besides 120amp alternator is pretty good enough for a serious audio setup coupled with a decent Capacitor, u would not have to worry about anything. besides, know how much amps the audio system uses, and see if ur alternaotor can keep up with it and ur not wasting ur money or anything. for instance getting a 300amp alternator would be a waste of money if ur not gonna use the full potential of it.

[3rdCoast]

this alt is supposed to be 160amps and another factory alt is almost the same price (factory legend alt). I wouldnt get a used one cuz how much of a bitch they r to put in and if it craps out on me not to long down the road im back where i am now so i think it will be cool once i get the shipping screw up fixed. Oh a quick question am i gonna have to upgrade the wiring on the -battery terminal along with the alt wire?

[88accordalltheway]

I beileve it is a 92-94 legend(dont hold me to it tho). It requires washers to line up correctly with the belt. It would be dumb to buy a rewound alt if your looking for somthing with a higher output for a system especially when you have another solution.

[3rdCoast]

when u say rewound r u talkin about the legend alt?

[smufguy]

i was not talking about getting a used one. I was referring to get a new Legend year of the compatable year (im lazy to search, so please do it for me ;) ) and bolt it on. Besides, some alts u get from the store have lifetime warrenty, so u shuld have no problem.

[88accordalltheway]

actually a rewound legend one probably wouldnt be a bad idea.

[3rdCoast]

I talked to the guy (joe) from Ace alternators and he was sorry about the screw up and asked if i could ship the part i got in error to the person it was supposed to go to in the 1st place and he said he would pay shipping and send me the correct alt and an extra $40 to cover my shipping of the wrong part and send me a free starter. Cant complain too much. Oh yeah he ships using ups and usps priority 2-day mail for those who may have been wondering. A quick question, what other wires am i gonna have to upgrade to 4ga. wire besides the alt wire?

[88accordalltheway]

you could go around and redo all the grounds, like the one on the valve cover, and the ones conecting the fuse boxes and battery.

[FyreDaug]

I used 4awg everywhere, but the one on the alt (pointless arg, have to do it soon, alt is dying) it helps when turning on headlights and stuff. No dimming

[3rdCoast]

how hard are all the grounds to get too and how many r there???? This is something i never checked out too much in the car cuz the wires were hard to follow.....

[A20A1]

I dunno if this helps you guys but I made a thread recently when swithing to an EFI alt.

http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=46908

http://www.3geez.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4517

[smufguy]

That has to be the Best schematic ever Mike. You are awsome dude.

[3rdCoast]

how hard are all the grounds to get too and how many r there???? This is something i never checked out too much in the car cuz the wires were hard to follow..... ?????????????????

[blahblahblah]

the alt is a rewound. I was looking at gitting too...I asked him

[3rdCoast]

is that a problem?

[3rdCoast]

i got my alt put in and runnin. I bought 4ga. wire to be run for the alt and gave to the ppl at the shop to put in while they were doin the alt and those fuckers didnt put the wire on and didnt give it back. That was almost $20 worth of wire......:mad:. The alt works ok sp far i just have this complaint that at idle speed with the head lights on the dash and headlights are dim at about 800rpms then when u rev it a lil u can see all the lights and dash get brighter then fade back. I havent even put my system in the car yet cuz of this. I notice though there is no dimming or low power to the head unit. It never dims or changes so i dunno if the alt puts out low power at low rpms or if i just need to get that 4ga. wire in there and get the grounds upgraded... what do u think???? oh yes i almost forgot it doesnt get dim much at all when in park or neutral its seems just when im in drive that it does this..........

[smufguy]

once the load is put on the electrical system, it will do that. Check to see if the battery is in good shape and ur putting out enough voltage from the alt. I used to have the same problem, it turned out to be a bad battery and the second time it occured, it was the lead wire to the alt was bad.

[l3aLLa]

You guys have to understand that Hondas are notorious for burning alternators with systems. The alternators have small amperage because they never take much to power your lights inside because its such a small vehicle. Sometimes people get away with it, I have i am running two 2000W Comp Speaker Zueses with a 2140W Bosten Accoustic Amp. Its been okay but ive already noticed the effects coming which is the headlights dimming, thats the first sign of your alternator stressing bad. My dads friend rebuilds alternators and said he cannot even beef them up because of there size.

[3rdCoast]

i have a rewound 160amp alt. I am gonna have to check the battery. I got an optima yellowtop that isnt even 4months old but it did get completly drained when my origanly alt died...... could belt tension have anything to do with this? i do get a belt chirp when i start the car but its real quick....

[3rdCoast]

:ugh:

[blahblahblah]

thats how the rewounds work..Their about stock(60 amp) at idle.and whatever there wound to at higher RPMs...I say get it tested to see what it can really do..See if thay didnt just sell you a replacement one...

[3rdCoast]

the thing is i dont even have the system in yet just a cd player. Im hoping that just upgrading the alt wire to 4ga from the factory size will fix this....i am gonna go get it all tested though.... could belt tension have somethin to do with it?

[smufguy]

if the alternator is putting out enough voltage, then probably you have a bad link somewhere, as in one of your electrical grounds is probably bad or is broken. CHeck to see where they might be, most probably in your charging system or ur lighting. I dont know what else to tell you cause everything seems to be just assumptions as of now and just rnning down gussess of what they might and could be.

start trouble shooting according to the shop manual and go from there. in that way you can eliminate obvious and possible faults.

[3rdCoast]

yeah im gonna check the negative battery cable ground if i can find it. I already cleaned the grounds from the valve cover the the front of the car and the neg battery terminal to the engine ground wire. It looks like the negative battery cabel goes under the battery tray somewhere so i guess i gotta fix that from the bottom.......

[blahblahblah]

o..I ment to get it tested at an alt shop..Take them just the alt...I know its a bitch to get in and out.....But ..youll know what the alt can really do..The "Autozone" test will just see if its charging at all...

[3rdCoast]

damn i had a shop put it in. i probably should have done it before i had it put in:sad2:

[3rdCoast]

fuck i read another ho alt thread on here and it didnt sound good..... i dont think my problem is gonna go away:sad2:

[3rdCoast]

im just gonna try the wire upgrade and see what happens where exactly does the neg battery cabel ground at?? It looks like it goes under the battery tray.... the big 3 upgrade consists of the alt wire and neg ground cabel and whats the 3rd?

[3rdCoast]

i think i know part of the problem here. i think the belt is slipping. something is leaking above the alst looke like a hose, mabye brake fuild i have to check but its dripping on the alt and when i give the gas a quick tap the belt squeeks park.

[smufguy]

i think i know part of the problem here. i think the belt is slipping. something is leaking above the alst looke like a hose, mabye brake fuild i have to check but its dripping on the alt and when i give the gas a quick tap the belt squeeks park.


ummmm....... the hose right above it, is the fuel return hose. U sure that its not cracked or anything?

[Vector]

This SUPER alternator comes with a 1 year warranty !!!


:Owned2:

[3rdCoast]

well if it was fuel im pretty sure there would be a strong gas smell and i havent noticed that im almost positive its brake fluid. im gonna have to get in there and check things out a bit more but it does look like a leaking hose....

[Gemini2003]

*bump* Any Word on this?

[Sabz5150]

I need to replace my alternator cable as well, it's the only one that got overlooked when I relocated my battery. From what I can tell, that thing snakes itself all the way around the front of the engine bay to the fusebox... anyone correct me if I am wrong. I don't need to be yanking random wires here :)

[blahblahblah]

were dose it go?...Im doing this tomorrow....Glad I saw this...I thought it went to the bat.....

[Sabz5150]

were dose it go?...Im doing this tomorrow....Glad I saw this...I thought it went to the bat.....

It goes to the fusebox under the hood. You'll see two thick cables running to it. One is the battery +12, the other is the alternator +12.

http://www.enginevoodoo.com/images/battery/batt1.jpg

The image is horrible, but you can see the cables. What would be the +12 coming straight off your battery is the grey one you can see the easiest. The alternator cable is the black one behind that.