PDA

View Full Version : compressor Replacemtn Instructions.



paynt3r
06-02-2004, 07:38 AM
Ok here is the situation. I baught a new AC compressor because the old one froze up on me. My car came stock with the Keihin, and I got a deal on a rebuilt Keihin compressor. So I take my car down to a mechanic to see about installing the compressor, replacing the dryer filter, flushing the system, and charging it. the grand total $450????!!! :wtf: Thats a total BF! I Know that I can change the compressor and filter, but does anyone know how to "Flush" the system. Past that, does anyone know how much oil to add to the compressor? As far as charging the system, I have a cousin that can do that for me.

Thanks,

Vinny
06-02-2004, 07:54 AM
First of all are they reservicing it with R12 or will it be running 134a. That could explain why the cost is so high. 12 runsa in excess of 60 bucks a lb in a lot of places and it takes almost 2lbs (1.88 to be exact) The service manual lists compressor capacity at 2.7oz. Add 2.7oz to the suction port on the compressor, make sure you spin the compressor 15 cycles (I think) to make sure to oil distibutes correctly. If not you may burn a compressor. Flushing the system is done with a special "flush solution" that you can buy at most parts stores. You'd also need a flush gun to do it properly, as just pouring the solution in and shaking the lines doesn't do nearly as good. I just pulled every line out of the car and power flushed them a few weeks ago. Not a hard task and its a good idea to do it, as it gets all the old oil out. Mixing mineral oil from an R12 sytem and pag or ester for a 134 system is BAD. Also is a good time to replace those 15 year old O rings and prevent future leaks. Just make sure whatever you do is done right. Saving money now will cost later when it comes to AC work. Mixing oils, not flushing systems, and not pulling a deep vacum to remove any moisture wil lead to compressor failure.

paynt3r
06-02-2004, 08:22 AM
They were going to redo the system with 134a. My cousin is a lisenced HVAC tech, and also has the equipment to evac and charge automotive ac. Although he doesn't do many autos, he mostly just does House AC. And I know that I can replace the compressor and drier. I just wan't too sure about flushing the system. Now I do a lot of Auto painting and have a large air compressor with excellent air cleaning and drying system. So let me ask this if you think this would work. What if i filled a paint gun with the flush solution, and shot the solution through the lines with out the paint tip in the gun. This should just shoot fluid out with high air pressure behind it. Then go back and just run high air pressure through the system to dry it out?

I guess I could also just check with another shop about just flushing the system. :dunno:

Vinny
06-02-2004, 08:39 AM
I dunno if a paint sprayer would work because its a mist setup. Even if you adjust it down it may not have enough pressure. The flush gun is simply a can with an air line fittin on one end and a basic air nozzle on the other end. May try putting a rubber grommet on an air nozle/blower to force the fluids through. then flush it with air

Heres a pic of the flush gun, I think it ran me 30 bucks or so shipped of ebay
http://store6.yimg.com/I/sjdiscounttools_1790_9077769

If you look at the fitting on the end you should be able to rig something up like that to push the fluid through. I picked up the flush at advance auto. Stuff STINKS. As in smells aweful. I'd recommend tearing the system down, flushing it with the solution, then reflushing it with isopropyl alchohol to get the rest of the crap out. Also importnant notes when flushing that SHOULD be on the flush container

DO NOT flush through the expansion valve (its under the dash with the evaporator)
DO NOT flush through the compressor
DO NOT flush through the filter drier

now you see why its easier just to tear the entire system down and flush it all individually. Should be able to get a new O ring kit from the honda dealer for like 2 bucks or so. It took me 3 kits to do the whole system, they don't have enough small o rings in the kits.

One other thing. Since you are converting over use either the green label PAG oil or the blue ester oil. The red pag is for high pressure GM systems. I use silicone dielectric grease (like for plug boots) on the O rings when I reinstall them and I wear latex gloves. The newer oils are more prone to attract moisture thats why I use dielectric on the o rings rather than oil. I try to keep the oils from my fingers off the O rings, hence the gloves.

paynt3r
06-02-2004, 08:46 AM
Thanks for the advice, for $30 or so I coud afford ordering the flush gun.:thumbup:

Vinny
06-02-2004, 08:55 AM
its one of the best investments I made, and I have invested literally thousands in tools. Buy 2 things of flush if you use the gun, it goes FAST. And I defintely would reflush with isopropyl if I had to do it over again.