ECU Code 6, WTF?

[HostileJava]

Well I've had most of the lines for my nitrous and fuel run for a while and the solenoids installed but I havn't had a chance to actually connect them all to where they were supposed to go. So yesterday I cut a hole in my intake and installed the nitrous/fuel jet into it, connected all the lines to the solenoids, and finally tapped into my fuel line and ran that to the fuel solenoid(I was as little worried about doing that). Well we go to start the car and it cranks but never starts. If I leave it crank for a while it would eventually throw a code 6, wich is bad coolant temp circuit, disconnected temp sensor, or bad sensor. Eventually after checking everything a couple of times the car started and we shut it off and it started right back up again. We made a quick trek to autozone to pick up a really long screwdriver we need to do some work on mikes(bloodlust) car and got stranded there with the car not starting, same code. Now I've shut it off and on a couple of times and it hasn't done it again. But wtf could have caused it? I mean I don't see how any of the modifications I did could have affected it that way. Anyone have any ideas? I don't want to get stuck somewhere else with it.

[FoX]

Well I've had most of the lines for my nitrous and fuel run for a while and the solenoids installed but I havn't had a chance to actually connect them all to where they were supposed to go. So yesterday I cut a hole in my intake and installed the nitrous/fuel jet into it, connected all the lines to the solenoids, and finally tapped into my fuel line and ran that to the fuel solenoid(I was as little worried about doing that). Well we go to start the car and it cranks but never starts. If I leave it crank for a while it would eventually throw a code 6, wich is bad coolant temp circuit, disconnected temp sensor, or bad sensor. Eventually after checking everything a couple of times the car started and we shut it off and it started right back up again. We made a quick trek to autozone to pick up a really long screwdriver we need to do some work on mikes(bloodlust) car and got stranded there with the car not starting, same code. Now I've shut it off and on a couple of times and it hasn't done it again. But wtf could have caused it? I mean I don't see how any of the modifications I did could have affected it that way. Anyone have any ideas? I don't want to get stuck somewhere else with it.
well, did you purge the nitrous system before you started car? sometimes the motors natural vacuum will suck the air out of the line connecting fuel to Nitrous fuel solenoid.

[HostileJava]

well, did you purge the nitrous system before you started car? sometimes the motors natural vacuum will suck the air out of the line connecting fuel to Nitrous fuel solenoid.


I blew all the lines clean, the fuel and nitrous solenoid were closed, and the nitrous bottle wasn't connected. We also took the CAI back off to make sure that there was no fuel laying in it and checked for marks of where fuel may have dried.

[Oyvind Ryeng]

I also have a code 6 now. I'm going to verify that the sensor is bad, and then replace it. I't guzzles fuel now, exhaust smells like fuel, and i have rough idle due to the fact that the ECU is under the impression that it's cold, and it has to add more fuel for the cold-startup routine.

This sensor is located on the back of the thermostat housing, and it's ONE electrical connector is pointing towards the firewall. Resistance between it's and ground should at 50 degrees Celsius (122F) be 154 ohms (+22 or -20), and the resistance at 80 degrees Celsius (176F) should be 52 ohms (+4.9 or -4.4).

[Vinny]

I also have a code 6 now. I'm going to verify that the sensor is bad, and then replace it. I't guzzles fuel now, exhaust smells like fuel, and i have rough idle due to the fact that the ECU is under the impression that it's cold, and it has to add more fuel for the cold-startup routine.

This sensor is located on the back of the thermostat housing, and it's ONE electrical connector is pointing towards the firewall. Resistance between it's and ground should at 50 degrees Celsius (122F) be 154 ohms (+22 or -20), and the resistance at 80 degrees Celsius (176F) should be 52 ohms (+4.9 or -4.4).


Wrong sensor. that would be the coolant temp sensor for the gauge, or atleast on USDM A20's it is. The ECT sensor is on top of the thermostat housing next to the aux fan switch on the 88-89 US accords. I believe its a black (or possibly blue) connector on the sensor. I do know of the 2 its the one closest to the head

[HostileJava]

Wrong sensor. that would be the coolant temp sensor for the gauge, or atleast on USDM A20's it is. The ECT sensor is on top of the thermostat housing next to the aux fan switch on the 88-89 US accords. I believe its a black (or possibly blue) connector on the sensor. I do know of the 2 its the one closest to the head

Well I havn't had the problem since then, and I just find it a little wierd that it would go at the same time I'm doing this other stuff. I suppose I could just pull the one outta the hatch since that one is almost new just for good measure.

[Vinny]

might be a good idea. Might also make sure your coolant system has been bled as well.

[Oyvind Ryeng]

Wrong sensor. that would be the coolant temp sensor for the gauge, or atleast on USDM A20's it is. The ECT sensor is on top of the thermostat housing next to the aux fan switch on the 88-89 US accords. I believe its a black (or possibly blue) connector on the sensor. I do know of the 2 its the one closest to the head
Oh, thank you for pointing this out! This means that I have to get the "TW"-sensor then. It looks like this? http://www.rockauto.com/ref/ACDelco/213-725.jpg

[Vinny]

Oh, thank you for pointing this out! This means that I have to get the "TW"-sensor then. It looks like this? http://www.rockauto.com/ref/ACDelco/213-725.jpg

Yupp that is more than likely the one. ECT, TW depends on who you talk to as to what its called