So I've attempted to change my CV Joints, I need help

[el-es-dee]

This is great shit right here.

1st off, I can't get the tranny filler plug off because it looks like some one used a shit load of lock tight (Probably the guy that replace my clutch.) and I've already drained my transmission fluid. (Fuck?) So, I have no idea how I am actualy going to get Oil back in there unless I ghetto pump it from the bottom and seal or or something.. Fuck I have no idea.

Also, When installing the axles, it said there is supose to be a Clicking noise when the end that connects to the transmission goes it. I didn't hear a click and it's prety far in there.


Right now I feel like kicking my own ass for even attempting to do this my self.

[el-es-dee]

Oh also, it's an 89 accord LXI Manual if this helps any.

[SteveDX89]

You should be able to feel when the axle is in the whole. The snap ring on the end snaps in to lock it in there. It may not click but you should be able to tell when it's all the way in. The filler bolt could be a bitch. All I can say is try an air gun or a breaker bar.

[el-es-dee]

Ok, so the axle is all the way in there, awesome. However, I have read suguestions to use a torch to heat the bolt and or get bolt out.. are these viable options for something that has used lock tight?

[shepherd79]

if you can't get the filler bolt out, you can remove the speed sensor on the top of the tranny. and use that hole to fill the tranny.
it will take 2.5 quarts of oil but 3 will do better.

[cubert]

when i did one of my axles the filler bolt was funny, we couldnt get it off one weekend, but when we went back the next weekend to try again with the torch and everything, it worked with a regular ratchet. Id say try the torch though

[dXsquared]

dont heat it too much... oh wait.. your gonna be at home lol... use a propane torch... it wont melt the shit... after you heat it... bang it with a hammer adn then twist it off

Travis

[Slavic]

If heating doesn't work, take it to your closest mechanic even though you're out of fluid. Hopefully he'll be able to break it loose for a few bucks. It's easier to brake it loose from underneath when the car is fully up on a lift.
I was in similar situation and had a mechanic do it for me while I was getting an AC leak check.

My car was driven 60-120 miles highway driving each time on TWO separate occasions until 5th gear started slipping because the shop didn't refill the fluid after changing CVs and the car is fine. So according to my experience driving a short distance with no fluid shouldn't be a problem especially seeing that your options are very limited. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

[dXsquared]

dont do that... just get it towed... never drive on no fluid

Travis

[zuhalter]

I replaced mine, and when I pulled the old joints out it seemed like a lot of oil leaked out. I spent the better part of a morning trying to get that bolt off, but eventually I took it in to a lube store for a free inspection and they got it off and said I was only low 1L. Kinda scary, cuz I really didn't want to drive it like that. Been fine ever since.

[el-es-dee]

Hmm I am going to go try and get that bolt off, if all else fails, I am removing the speed senssor

how does one remove the senseor? :P

[cvergi01]

Impact hammer...AIR BABY...

[SteveDX89]

Hmm I am going to go try and get that bolt off, if all else fails, I am removing the speed senssor

how does one remove the senseor? :P

Look at the top of your tranny. You will see a cable going straight down into it and 2 hoses as well. There will be a bolt holding it in. Just take the bolt out and pull the sensor out. You may have to turn the sensor a little bit to get it unseated but you can pull it out by hand.

[Slavic]

how does one remove the senseor? :P
You may also want to check out the posts by pixiesfan78 and Strugglebucket in this thread for detailed instructions and warnings:
power steering fluid leaking into the engine through speedometer? (http://3geez.asmallorange.com/showthread.php?t=35621)

[speedpenguin]

do what i did.
take a six-point wrench, stick it on and then tap it with a mallet.
you won't have to hit it too hard, right now it's just torqued down harder than you can break it loose with just your arms.
the use of a hammer is a true skill of the ghetto mechanic.
if it makes you feel better use a heat gun first, but i wouldn't bother. :lol:

[rideredorgohome]

do what i did.
take a six-point wrench, stick it on and then tap it with a mallet.
you won't have to hit it too hard, right now it's just torqued down harder than you can break it loose with just your arms.
the use of a hammer is a true skill of the ghetto mechanic.
if it makes you feel better use a heat gun first, but i wouldn't bother. :lol:
Oh and if that don't work get a bigger hammer :lol:

[kdagenais]

Another option is if you do not have the axle back in already you can dump oil in there also. But if you have axle back in then I would continue to try to remove the filler plug.
Good Luck & keep us posted.

[smufguy]

Well i got mine off with a breaker bar. IF you go to autozone, they got a heavy duty 1/2" drive 18" long breaker bar for $10 on sale. Thats where i got mine (second one. :) ) and get a reducer from a 1/2" toa 3/8" from them. Dont get any cheap brands. Get either, craftsman, husky, or stanley. I got stanley tools and i can vouch for their quality. Everyone uses craftsman and they know how it is, husky is just too damn expensive but its on the same scale. I used my stanly and it popped in, one slight turn, and it just loosened. So i dont know how ur gonna do without a breaker bar.

Shit im a week late :( for this thread

[speedpenguin]

i should get a better breaker bar than the piece of lead pipe i have now...
oh well

[smufguy]

i should get a better breaker bar than the piece of lead pipe i have now...
oh well

i dont know why ppl call it a breaker bar when they put a darn pipe on a 3/8" ratchet, i mean worse thing that can happen is the ratchet breaking under high torque and imbedding into either the socket or the nut itself (Like the manual tranny oil fill nut). A real breaker bar is not expensive. 15 bux max if u get it from a designer store :kekeke:

[speedpenguin]

because buying stuff takes time...

[oneslammedlxi]

and were not rich

FIFTEEN DOLLAS!!!! good lord thats allota money!

i'll give you a cigarette butt 2 dollas and a chickin wing...lol

[maka_RTH]

Well i got mine off with a breaker bar. IF you go to autozone, they got a heavy duty 1/2" drive 18" long breaker bar for $10 on sale. Thats where i got mine (second one. :) ) and get a reducer from a 1/2" toa 3/8" from them. Dont get any cheap brands. Get either, craftsman, husky, or stanley. I got stanley tools and i can vouch for their quality. Everyone uses craftsman and they know how it is, husky is just too damn expensive but its on the same scale. I used my stanly and it popped in, one slight turn, and it just loosened. So i dont know how ur gonna do without a breaker bar.

Shit im a week late :( for this thread

hey, you forgot the two best: snap-on and mac tools! how could you? lol

[smufguy]

heheh u guys crack me up :) buncha silly goose-s :kekeke: