QUESTION for those who've done SE-i disc brake swap

[ICEMAN707]

I've read the how-to on this swap, but it seems incomplete. It just tells you what you need to get, but what exactly are the steps and process involved in this? I don't have experience in brakes like bleeding the brake system and whatnot. I want to do it right the first time like everybody else. So can please someone reply me a detailed step-by-step process on how to do this?

The reason I'm asking is because I recently purchased a set of nickel-plated cross drilled rotors for my SE-i, but I am thinking of swapping the disc brakes to my LX-i project show car instead. So it's important I don't make any mistakes swapping brake systems on both cars. Especially the SEi since that is my daily driver. I wanna make sure the drum brakes from the LXi will work on the SEi. I know it sounds weird I'm making the SEi less of an SEi, but I'm selling the SEi once i get the good parts out of it into my LXi show car. Thanks guys!

[truetune]

haha your gonna make it an LX-i haha

[nswst8]

No matter what you do, do one side at a time this way you have a reference.
Now at this time you want to have everything that you need bushings, new brake lines (SS if possible) new hardware (springs, clips, etc).

Decide if you are going to paint before you start the swap and I mean everything, paint all new parts to desired colors if your doing one side at a time this is going to add considerable time unless you use pictures for your reference or a manual.

I would suggest buying everything new when swapping out with the age of our rides and since your doing it yourself, you'll save alot.

Brakes are simple and straight forward, hydraulic pressure is utilized to apply friction to your rotors, drums so if all your lines seals are okay then you'll be okay.

1. Remove the tires, of course jack the car up.
2. Remove the brake lines, have some drip pans ready.
3. Remove caliper/drums. Which ever one your doing first.
4. Remove brake shoes and all hardware down to the backing plate.
5. Remove the E-brake cable all the way to the handbrake.
6. Remove the knuckle at this time.
7. Remove & Replace rear upper balljoints if not allready done.
8. Inspect and replace the hub if needed.

This is it now just paint and lube everything and reinstall everything in reverse order.
Bleeding is 1. Front Driver side, 2. Rear passenger side, 3. Front passenger side, 4. Rear driver side. You'll need a buddy unless you have a one man bleed set up.

In a nut shell this is a easy day except for all the prep work for show purposes.

Hope this helps.
Phil :cheers:

[ivanfbi]

Well, all i can tell you is that you will need to put SE-i's front brakes on LX-i too...Cuz 86-87 had smaller rotors and calipers than 88-89

[ICEMAN707]

i have new brake rotors and pads for both cars now. i have the cross drilled ones and AEM pads for the disc brake setup from the SEi and the new front rotors, drums, and brake shoes and AEM pads for the drum setup from the LXi. so that's nothing to worry about now. the LXi has new suspension equipment already as is. the SEi i'm not even worried cus i'm selling that car back once i get the disc brakes out of it. i am also considering trading it in for a new Scion TC or the upcoming new Tiburon GT in 2005.

anyways, i see that everything is a bolt-in bolt-out procedure. i want more details on how to bleed brakes. also, do i really need to swap out the handbrake cables too? in case i have to, i hope they are the same length between the coupe and sedan. thanks.

[nswst8]

From Home Depot get some clear tubing in the plumbing section 1/4" should work fine.

Next get glass jar or bottle "not plastic".

Something to secure the tubing to the bottle/jar "tape/wire"

Fill the bottle/jar 1/4 full with brake fluid, make sure the tubing end is submerged in the brake fluid. The other end is placed over the bleed valve.
Sometimes if the tube is not secure enough I like to use a ziptie/wiretie.

Open bleed valve, open resevoir and fill to the top with fluid.

Now pump the brake pedal 2-3 times and then refill the resevoir, I usually do this 3-4 times per wheel.

Now if you wish to flush & replace fluid, open each bleed valve one at a time pump the brake pedal until resevoir is low just before being dry, refill and repeat is needed. Otherwise move on to next wheel. After all are done use procedure as described above.

Hope this helps
Phil :cheers:

[Vinny]

Phil, why do you say not a plastic bottle? Just curious. I usually use a glass olive jar or a large baby food jar but have used the plastic container that came with my mityvac/snap-on vacuum pump here lately.

on a side note. I recommend picking up a set of russell or dorman/help speed bleeders for anyone who is swapping brakes, replacing lines, ot changing calipers. They have a 1 way check valve that prevents any air from being drawn back into the cylinder. They run about 10 bucks for a set of 2

Also on flushing the lines I used an 8oz container anf filled it twice on each wheel, by the time I was done the fluid from the lines and in the reservoir was as clear as the fluid in the new container.

Side note on bleeding
bleeding brake systems on vehicles which are front wheel drive the sequence is different than rear wheel drive vehicles some of you may be use to. These systems use a diagonal configuration for safety purposes. On this system the sequence should start with the wheel closest to the master cylinder, the next wheel in the sequence will be diagonally aligned with that wheel.

Per the manual you bleed LF wheel, RR wheel, RF wheel, LR wheel.

[Justin86]

Also you will need someone to help with the bleeding unless you get the one-way speed bleeding valves. Basicaly raise the car and look at everything that you need to do. Go throught it in your head everybolt and part, so that there is no supprises.

[nswst8]

THE FREAKIN BOTTLE TIPPED OVER :mad:
So I just try to use glass because its weighted and doesn't tip that easily.
Just preference.
Phil :cheers:

[tatmark1]

...sorry nevermind

[Vinny]

THE FREAKIN BOTTLE TIPPED OVER :mad:
So I just try to use glass because its weighted and doesn't tip that easily.
Just preference.
Phil :cheers:


You need children, they are good for things like that. I had the 13 year old out there pumping the brakes while I held the "catch bottle" thats the other nice thing about the speed bleeders. You don't have to open and close the bleed screw. Just open it and pump away at the brakes

[nswst8]

...sorry nevermind
Thought you were going to add something :cool:
Phil :cheers:

[ICEMAN707]

thanks alot for all the info guys. just never done this before and i have an idea of how to do it, just gotta confirm if i'm right. been reading up on my haynes repair manual also. also, one question wasn't answered: do i really need to swap out the handbrake cables too? in case i have to, i hope they are the same length between the coupe and sedan. thanks again.

[nswst8]

thanks alot for all the info guys. just never done this before and i have an idea of how to do it, just gotta confirm if i'm right. been reading up on my haynes repair manual also. also, one question wasn't answered: do i really need to swap out the handbrake cables too? in case i have to, i hope they are the same length between the coupe and sedan. thanks again.

The E-brake cables between the the 89 Coupe SEi and the 89 Sedan SEi
are the same number #76073 & #76075 check Majestic.
Now if you are asking weather you interchange SEi and LXi E-brake cables "NO" you can not.
Hope this helps.
Phil :cheers:

[Justin86]

yea they will swap between coupe and sedan, and you can not use the drum brake cables, they are very different.