The B20A is in!!!!

[carotman]

Well, I don't have time for a full write up right now... really excited to go through the break-in period and floor that thing!!!

Here's a small video without sound just to make you wait until the full write-up! :rockon:

http://keruh.com/3gz/b20a.avi

[accordlxi2.0]

congratulations man!
it looks real nice!!
have you dynoed it yet??

[AccordAddict]

DAMN! thats sick!

[RobT5580]

You lucky bastard!!!! Looks good and if there are any heads up you want to pass on to me then PM me. The only thing holding me up is the machine shop and fidanza with my damn flywheel. Hopefully things go well then i should have some pictures the first few weeks of august.

Glad to see your done!

[1988starter]

damn spooge that is beyond beautiful. How is it the sound and the speed.

[nswst8]

Gives me a woody to see that :rockon: Please do the full write up now I can't wait to get mine to start working on. Definately a heads up on anything will help :bow:

[blazin3gen]

HOLLY SHIT CAROT!

thats sweet congrats!

[L3G10N]

:rockon: my little bitch!!!!

but i don't read any tnx anywhere?!!?!?

GIMME BACK MY TRANNY PLATE!!!!

Congrats dude! you'll have to show me this when you'll get take your rear strut bar in Daveluyville.

where's the sound!?!? :thumbdown

[A20A1]

I'm D/L it now... I sent you the gauges and stuff... I tried to PM you but your mail box was full.

:D

[blazin3gen]

:rockon: my little bitch!!!!

but i don't read any tnx anywhere?!!?!?

GIMME BACK MY TRANNY PLATE!!!!

Congrats dude! you'll have to show me this when you'll get take your rear strut bar in Daveluyville.

where's the sound!?!? :thumbdown



where the hell have u been lol havent seen u in awhile

unless im blind :)

[Busted_Blue]

great teaser video..I'll wait for the writeup before I ask any questions. :D

[carotman]

Well, I wonder if I should do another thread or post alot of pictures... you guys sure have seen an engine swap before... I'll post some anyway as an eye candy :D

They are resized to 640X480 to save on the bandwidth a bit (Hi-Res available on request)

Day 1:

Here's my friend Marc and my girlfirend stripping the A20A1 of it's accessories... that poor thing!
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/MarieMarchood.jpg
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/Marchood.jpg


Tha's my friend Gabriel and I (I'm on the left) preparing the B20A to go in the engine bay.
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/JeffGabb20.jpg

Any good Canadian knows that working on a car can't be done without taking a beer. We didn't take too much tough :D
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/GaBbiere.jpg

Now, here's something interesting!

Here's a picture of the JDM and USDM Left side CV joint (Tranny side).

The USDM joint has splines only on half of the inboard joint. The JDM left side joint uses an intermediate shaft and has splines all along the inboard joint. This means that the USDM right CV joint will NOT fit in the intermediate shaft. If you thought you could use 2 left side joint as equal length shafts... you're wrong! (and I was). The good news is that you can swap the inboard joint without a problem.

I was lucky enough to get the inboard joint with my intermediate shaft. If you don't have one, there might be other Honda shafts that will fit. Any CV joint rebuild shop might be able to find a replacement part. If you're out of luck, the loooooong A20A left side joint will fit.

(USDM on the left, JDM on the right)
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/Cardans.jpg


Finally, the A20A was out by 9h PM
Those Cast Iron blocks get really dirty.
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/Chevre3g.jpg


The car was now ready to receive it's B20A...... but there's more to come.
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/hoodvide.jpg

[shepherd79]

it looks good. reminds me of Steve89DX B series swap. it was fun project.

[carotman]

Day 2

Before the engine gets back in, I wanted to do some work on the car.

My girlfriend helped to remove the front console and shifter assembly... I got a nice Pacesetter shifter now :)

http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/mshifter.jpg
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/shifter.jpg
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/tranny.jpg


That's me under the car, removing the DC header downpipe.
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/mjdownpipe.jpg


Here's the A20A Doenpipe (left) compared to the B20A downpipe (right). I had this welded at without any "real" measurements....

My B20A came with the front part of the downpipe only (everything past the rear bracket was cut). I bought an Accord DX downpipe (cheaper that the 4-2-1 LX-i) and aligned the rear downpipe bracket on both downpipes... I then cut the DX downpipe where the B20A downpipe ended and got it welded in place. If you use the rear bracket as a reference, It fits perfect!!! I noticed that the B20A and A20A rear bracket are different... I don'T have the B20A bracket but it doesn't seem to cause any problem.

http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/downpipe.jpg

I took my X-Member out. I hit a curb back in 1999 (yeah... 5 years ago) and the right side of the X-Member where the lower arm bolts was moved 1/2 inch towards the middle of the car... that even caused a slight positive camber problem (even with the ingalls camber kit)

http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/jmcm.jpg
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/crossmembers.jpg

My girl working on the lower tranny mount.
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/msupporttrany.jpg

Tha's Marc and me trying to bolt the new X-Member... boy that thing is heavy
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/parc.jpg

[A20A1]

Nice Vid... good pics too.

[carotman]

Day 3:

Sunday, we put that B20A in!


http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/preparation.jpg

That engine crane was heavy but quite solid.!!

http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/jfchevre.jpg

We came into a problem with the crane... had to lift it by hand.... a man gota use his muscles sometimes :)

http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/trottoir.jpg


Oh yeah..... it's going in!!!!!
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/ouais.jpg

http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/dedans.jpg


Those cables are realllly close to the camgears.... and the stock cover will not work with the custom gears....
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/cableclutch.jpg


The engine is finally in!

http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/oldschb20a.jpg

Time to put the fuilds in!
I used that tube filler for the tranny fluid. Did you guys know that the bolt pattern from the pepsi bottle matched that filler???
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/pepsi.jpg

[carotman]

Last checkup before we start the engine.....
http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/tests.jpg


Then.... the engine would not start. I doublechecked everything again and again.... still would not start. It finally started after like 15 mins and alot of sputters... but ran on 3 cyls :( :(

It was getting late and the diagnosis was more difficult in the dark.... everybody was tired too.... so we called it a day.

http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/partpas.jpg


So, yesterday I finally found the problem.... those damn injectors...!!! I replaced all of them with the known good A20A injectors. I don't know if they have less flow but I got spare B20A ones anyway...


Now the engine runs like a charm... the paint on it needs to cure (stinks as hell) and I got some minor idle problems (god bless the agressive cams)

The problems so far:

1- Weird hesitation after a 20 min drive...I suspect my new 4 wire O2 setup. I replaced the 2 O2 sensors with a single 4 wire.... The engine ran fine for a while tough...

2- Leaky oil drain bolt. My drain bolt was kinda stripped but seemed somewhat okay.... I was wrong. Anyone got a quick way to fix this?

Thanks.

http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/swap/dohc.jpg

[88LXi68]

Looks good Carot! now the fun part starts when you try and get rid of all the little swap bugs. Good luck and maybe we can set up a meet later this summer or early sept

[A20A1]

Nice touch with the DOHC

I dunno about the bolt... Depend how far I could get it in but I would probably see if a good winding of teflon tape would hold up... not sure if the used oil is corrosive to the teflon though.

[smufguy]

I need to see the VIdeo, Bet Jim (hostile Java) can host it for you with no problem. Man..... tell me about the lower cross member, that shit weighed a ton and the damn long ass bolts go like crazy in. Also Jean, did u feel steering chatter when u hooked up the steering rack to the column? cause mine is being weird and got a lil more play, even tho the 10mm bolt on the floor is tightned good.

Im loving this man. I cant wait to see this thing broken in along with your clutch, and then up on the dyno for some crazy ass numbers.

PS~ did u do anything to the intake manifold?

1. THere is something really hot and "turn-on" about a chick who can work around cars and does not mind getting dirty. Hell i envy your girlfriend.

2. You look a lot like my friends boyfriend, ROb, he looks a lot like you, only problem is, he is polish and ur french.

Now to your problem

1. Hesitation whille driving.
- You are not throwing any codes are you? Check for code number 5.
- I had this weird hesitation when my car kinda ran for a whille and these were the symptooms. It drives good and clean and then all of a sudden u hit the gas and it starts to sputter, no where to go, it runs like a lawnmower and then picks up and runs fine at high rpm.
- Its most likely misfiring due to heat or detonation because its running too lean.
- Check how much fuel pressure ur running, for you 43 psi would be awsome at WOT, so at idle, its about 38-40 psi.
- Check the spark plugs right after u start the car up and hit it to 5K, stop the car immediately, pull the plugs and see how the tips looks like.
- how old are the cap and rotor, and u got the cap gasket and the distributor O-ring is fine right?
- CHeck the injector filter screens and also check your fuel filter.
- Too much moisture in the gas tank would also cause this hesitation so use two bottles of Gas tank treatment.
- Check the hose that goes to the MAP sensor, and if needed change it. I redid all my vaccuum hoses, im in the process of pulling the metal shit out and just running all rubber vaccuum lines from the emissions box to the TB and other sensors. Its about 20-25 feet is needed and you might find about $0.35 - $0.65 a foot vaccuum lines.

Leaky Oil Drain Bolt

- If its stripped, you could Re-Thread the bolt hole. You have done this before and you know how to do it.
- If the bolt itself is messed up, (is it the same 14mm bolt like ours?) try using a B20A5 oil drain bolt.
- Worse comes to worse and need to immediately fix it. Wipe the bolt hole area clean and spray some carb cleaner on the bolt and surrounding area to clean it good. then use the gasket maker (any kind) and just apply a dab around the bolt head and the pan to seal it good. Let it sit for a while and then drive around and u wont have any leaks (this was my alternative solution to a leaky distributor because of a crapped out Dist-O-Ring).

Hope those help ;) you are the master of troubleshooting, im suprised u even asked Jean, But you know we are at your service, MR. Bear Baron Mod ;)

[Gregg86DX]

Congrats on your install!!! Looks good and I'm really interested in seeing some numbers for your setup.

I found out about the spline problem on the intermediate shaft this weekend too! Unfortunately, I don't have the original joint to pirate from. Another problem I have is the intermediate shaft I have is from an auto, and it appears to be slightly too long. The carrier bolts won't line up. In the short run, I am stuck with the long axle solution. I need to do some research and see if I can find the correct intermediate shaft and CV joint.

Gregg

[carotman]

I need to see the VIdeo, Bet Jim (hostile Java) can host it for you with no problem. Man..... tell me about the lower cross member, that shit weighed a ton and the damn long ass bolts go like crazy in. Also Jean, did u feel steering chatter when u hooked up the steering rack to the column? cause mine is being weird and got a lil more play, even tho the 10mm bolt on the floor is tightned good.

Im loving this man. I cant wait to see this thing broken in along with your clutch, and then up on the dyno for some crazy ass numbers.

PS~ did u do anything to the intake manifold?

1. THere is something really hot and "turn-on" about a chick who can work around cars and does not mind getting dirty. Hell i envy your girlfriend.

2. You look a lot like my friends boyfriend, ROb, he looks a lot like you, only problem is, he is polish and ur french.

Now to your problem

1. Hesitation whille driving.
- You are not throwing any codes are you? Check for code number 5.
- I had this weird hesitation when my car kinda ran for a whille and these were the symptooms. It drives good and clean and then all of a sudden u hit the gas and it starts to sputter, no where to go, it runs like a lawnmower and then picks up and runs fine at high rpm.
- Its most likely misfiring due to heat or detonation because its running too lean.
- Check how much fuel pressure ur running, for you 43 psi would be awsome at WOT, so at idle, its about 38-40 psi.
- Check the spark plugs right after u start the car up and hit it to 5K, stop the car immediately, pull the plugs and see how the tips looks like.
- how old are the cap and rotor, and u got the cap gasket and the distributor O-ring is fine right?
- CHeck the injector filter screens and also check your fuel filter.
- Too much moisture in the gas tank would also cause this hesitation so use two bottles of Gas tank treatment.
- Check the hose that goes to the MAP sensor, and if needed change it. I redid all my vaccuum hoses, im in the process of pulling the metal shit out and just running all rubber vaccuum lines from the emissions box to the TB and other sensors. Its about 20-25 feet is needed and you might find about $0.35 - $0.65 a foot vaccuum lines.

Leaky Oil Drain Bolt

- If its stripped, you could Re-Thread the bolt hole. You have done this before and you know how to do it.
- If the bolt itself is messed up, (is it the same 14mm bolt like ours?) try using a B20A5 oil drain bolt.
- Worse comes to worse and need to immediately fix it. Wipe the bolt hole area clean and spray some carb cleaner on the bolt and surrounding area to clean it good. then use the gasket maker (any kind) and just apply a dab around the bolt head and the pan to seal it good. Let it sit for a while and then drive around and u wont have any leaks (this was my alternative solution to a leaky distributor because of a crapped out Dist-O-Ring).

Hope those help ;) you are the master of troubleshooting, im suprised u even asked Jean, But you know we are at your service, MR. Bear Baron Mod ;)


Damn so much questions!!

I'll gladly answer!

The steering response is the same as before... the 10mm bolt has a slot in which it must go (just like the front spring perch on the struts). Check if yours is correct.

I reallty like having a girlfriend that likes to work on cars!!! She enjoys my mods as much as I do.

The intake manifold is stock (for now!). I might use a skunk2 in the near future.

For the heditation, I'm not getting any CEL but i did not check on the ECU itself. I though about the O2 sensor since I did the 4 wire O2 conversion like Tom Coleman did (www.ludespeed.com). I bought a used sensor so it might be the problem. I honestly did not think about the engine leaning out but if the O2 has weird readings... the ecu might go crazy a bit and lean out the mixture... I know I'm good at troubleshooting things but a second opinion is always welcome.

I'll soon use a PM6 I think... 1 O2 sensor input... problem solved!

Since the injectors were fine on the A20A, I guess they would be ok.

I'll check the MAP sensor too. good idea :D

The cap/rotor/gasket O-rings are brand new and the fuel filter was replaced last year. (not more than 5k miles on it)

The fuel pressure is still stock... so getting an adjustable fpr might help.


For the bolt hole, I re-threaded it and used a thread rebuild compound... I'm affraid to put too much pressure and break all the threads... using a bigger bolt would solve the problem I guess. The bolt is a standard Honda bolt.

I thought about the gasket maker and I even bought it to seal the TPS (no gaskets are available at Honda)... I guess it was not a bad idea at all. At least it will work as a temporary solution for the break-in process.


Thanks for all your inputs guys!

[PortugalFocus]

Congrats on getting the B20 in man..... when are you gonna stick that car on rollers for a dyno?

[carotman]

Congrats on your install!!! Looks good and I'm really interested in seeing some numbers for your setup.

I found out about the spline problem on the intermediate shaft this weekend too! Unfortunately, I don't have the original joint to pirate from. Another problem I have is the intermediate shaft I have is from an auto, and it appears to be slightly too long. The carrier bolts won't line up. In the short run, I am stuck with the long axle solution. I need to do some research and see if I can find the correct intermediate shaft and CV joint.

Gregg

I found out this friday that the intermediate shaft I had was not the one for the B20A (it was from an automatic Integra). I went to the engine importers in Montreal and no one would sell me a B20A intermediate shaft... I found only 1 place that was willing to part it out (lucky me). I almost threw the outboard joint into the garbage.... glad I didn't!!!

I also noticed that the auto shaft had a different part number. Maybe we can use a shaft from another car (like the 88-89 lude) but use the B20A bearing and bracket.

The inboard joint can be found here in America i'm sure. Just hit the rebuild shops.


The car will be put on the Dyno after the break in period. i'll need to change the ECU too before I dyno tune it.

BTW, the video is now available again.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

That's fricken great Carotman! So how much do you want for the DC Sport Header and Downpipe since you can't use it? I got first dibbs :)

-Mike

[smufguy]

okay, i did not think big of the camgears, in the pics, but HOLY SHIT, in the video, those things are friggin hugeeeeeeeeeee. I cant imagine how muc power this thing is gonna put out in its powerband with the cams u got. Jesus . . . . . . . . . im lost for words :). You are crazy,

Jean, for the cam gear cover, Try the DSM Valvecovers, those gears a pretty big and they got the cover pretty big too. ANy Laser/eclipse/talon might work. Some neon/accent engines are the same 4G63 so those might work too. But give those a shot. and oh by the way, i thought u had the DC header for the B20A5 lude?? i think it was Openloops, but i swear i thought it was yours.

[1988starter]

nice nice looks damn good. You should probably go back to the 2 sensors everyone I know that has done the conv with the 4 wire has used 2 instead of one. This is because of similar problems in sputtering after about 20 min of warming up kinda like if you have the sensors reversed a header for an 88 or 89 accord.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Hey carotman if you decide to go back to 2 2-wire O2 sensors I would be interested in buying your 4 wire O2 sensor. But only if you didn't put anti-seize on the sensor threads or stuff like that. B/c that will mess up the readings.


-Mike

[L3G10N]

still don't see any tnx for my tranny plate!!! :thumbdown

lol joke, but don't forget to give me another one.

So finally, my intermediate shaft will be the good one, i'll not need the CV joint?



Blazin3Gen, working on my beater and at work sooo hard to get all the money i need to finalise my custom 86 hatch/B20A JDM. I've posted a few weeks ago a "How To" do your custom 86-89 strut bar. So, maybe your a bit blind :lol:

[carotman]

bah, I'll use the PM6 ecu and that'll solve the O2 problem... I hate having 2 sensors... plus, the downpipe has already the bong for the O2 sensor right after the bracket.


Legion... thanks for the plate :rolleyes:

[accordlxi2.0]

man that's sweet.
i think it neat when a girl help's his man out on car's.
the car probaly fast as hell.

[adams86lxi]

good work man! About the oxygen sensors-I have a dc sports header on my b20a 4-2-1 and the oxygen sensors were relocated to the downpipe wheir it goes to 2 pipes and i only have 1 oxygen sensor pluged in the one pipe while the other is just disconected and mine runs great with my 86 a20 ecu and wiring harness.

[Wood9669]

:werd: :rockon: :) :cool: :jaw: :omg:

[BITESIZE]

One Word>>> Beautiful! Go Carot!!!

[87accordlxi]

If the bolt still leaks and you're using a metal washer, get rid of that washer. Use one made out of nylon or dense cork. My drain bolt leaked for years until I saw nylon ones in the store. A new washer could have probably saved you the trouble of rethreading the hole.

The engine looks amazing! The look on your face in the video is priceless. I can tell you're excited after this time and hard work (and money!).

[maka_RTH]

that makes me want one even more. i'd still love to go B20a, it looks sexy :bow: can't wait to see numbers. i'd also ask for the DC header, but i may have lucked out and i'm most likely getting some already! anyways, enjoy that B20a, and i love the DOHC underneath the accord emblem :rockon:

[88accordhb]

am i drunk and seeing doubles? TWIN CAMS!!!!! ahahhaha very nice.

[RobT5580]

Thanks for the tip carot i changed out the axle end today thankfully i had the end because i want to keep the intermediate shaft.

[carotman]

I might try to use the stock B20A O2 sensor location as the primary O2 sensor and use the one on the downpipe as the secondary (or vice versa)... that's only a test tough.

I didn't know about those nylon gaskets... that will save be ALOT of trouble... thanks a million!.

My girl helped for the swap and enjoyed it... she ABSOLUTELY wanted to be there when we were taking the engine in and out of the car.... she would have killed me if I did this without her. There are 2 more swaps going on this summer among my friends and she will help us.

1- Marc (that looks like Peter Griffin on the pictures) will put a H22A in his 97 Integra (you can see the H on some pics)
2- Gabriel (the one with the CIA shirt) will put the B18B from the 97 Teg into his 91 teg...


BTW, the DC header will be for sale Mike... I dunno when tough. I need to gather all the stuff and see if it's still in good shape.. there shoudn't be any problem tough.

P.S. Those Eurethane inserts I made for the mounts really stiffen the engine. The car shakes at idle!

[BaDPiSToN]

P.S. Those Eurethane inserts I made for the mounts really stiffen the engine. The car shakes at idle!


Cough. I made them.

Tsss, don't give yourself all the credit!



Carot's gf. :tongue:

[smufguy]

yeah man, this has been long overdue and u deserve it. Shit i cant stop thinking about the resemblence bwt you and my buddy Rob. Tooo damn close.

Anywho, u are one of the first guys whom i know had a b20 in his pocession and was gonna swap it, but over a year and half back was that is. BUt its only now, u have swapped it in. Damn............. i respect it more cuase u did it right.

[carotman]

Yeah, it sure took a long time to do it... mostly because I was involved in a strike for over a year at my old job so money was rare...

I'm glad to have a running EFI B20A in my carbed Accord :p

[smufguy]

hahaha, u and i are on the same boat. Two DX running efi. and ur a B20 and pressure soon ill be boost. But i bet u dont have rear fold down seat, cause i do ;)

Cant wait to see the small bugs eliminated and this thing hit the road and basically menace the town ;)

[maxoutracer]

madd props!

[steve-024]

hey man very good setup with the pics , congrats man and enjoy the ride

[carotman]

Well, I replaced my drain bolt O-Ring this week end and that solved the problem !!!

I also kinda solved the O2 sensor hesitation... I noticed that if you unplugthe secondary sensor, the car will just run fine and won't throw any CEL light... I didn't check directly on the ECU tough. Anyway, all the car needs now if to adjust the timing.

Then, the ECU swap and dyno tune.

[Vanilla Sky]

man, i have GOT to get me one of these engines for my car...

[carotman]

I solved the Intermediate shaft problem for you guys!

Say thanks to carotman again!


Here's the thread

B20A intermediate shaft revealed (http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=36696)

[Elijah]

So much reading.I never read all the posts so I dont know if you got the oil bolt fixed.But I had the same problem and just put a thick plastic washer on.

[Lok]

This is a fantastic job, a very nice N/A B20A engine!!!!!!!
I think carotman will make 205-210hp with a nice ECU tuning.
There is a huge increase in compresion ratio ( stock B20 is 9.5:1, Carotman's is 11.1:1).....that helps a lot plus a lot of head work ( cams, cam gears, porting etc).
With a good exaust ( 60mm internal diameter) and a good ECU carotman's Honda
will pass 200hp easily.
95mm stroke is not a problem if the crankshaft is balanced.......................
(Japan)Top Fuel's stroker kit for B18C5 with 94mm stroke and 81mm bore............runs
10.000rpm!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.nizanclub.com/Pages/624/Yearbook2002/


So, I think no problem for a balanced B20A with agressive cams to run and make power at 8,000rpm........( stock B20A2 (european type) with just 137hp has rev-limit 7000rpm)

NICE JOB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!

[skiingco]

Ok guys, JDM86Lude is at my house with a Integ Vacuum Distr and both our stock BT Eng Harness and the JDM B20A Eng Harness have a four wire connecter that is supposed to plug into a Dist. I did the electric ignition wire setup with a JDM Dist, USDM PK2 and USDM Igniter and my car does not start. JDM86Lude is using his JDM ECU, Stock BT Eng Harness and JDM Dist and his car runs. Another user has a USDM Dist, USDM PK2 and USDM Igniter and his car runs. Well, JDM86Lude and I plugged in his PH3 JDM ECU and no start, however, neither of us could see blue spark from the coil wire with the car turning over and a New B20A coil wire seated firmly into the coil and viewing the coil a 1/4 inch out of the dist. cap and the second time putting a flathead between the coil wire and dist. cap. I tested resistance of the coil posts and the primary(hole the coil wire fits into the coil according to Chilton's) and the resistance tested at the right Ohms. Regardless, I am buying a new coil and rewiring the PK2 Yasu setup with the ext. igniter. It would be so excellent if Carot or Eric someone else could explain how to use the Integ Dist. with either my stock Vacuum Advance ECU or the PK2 ECU. :mad: :dunno: :help: :burn: :bow: :beat: :stick: :huh:

[SteveDX89]

I just watched the video and it looks like the engine is spinning backwards. What's up with that? Anyway, nice swap. B's in carbed Accords are nice although mine's a bit different than yours. :) Let us know what numbers you're getting soon.