Vacuum Removal Updates!!!

[A20A1]

This one is for Vacuum advance routing... please go to the link and scroll to the bottom of the page to the lower 2 diagrams.
http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=11067
:cool:

[shepherd79]

good job mike.

[A20A1]

OMG those damn thermovalves... I've been looking at 3 different diagrams with various vacuum routings... I just made 2 new diagrams and may have to make a third.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

So nothing has changed if you have a weber right? B/c all of the pics are of stock carbs.

[A20A1]

well #25 would be like #25 on the diagram, hooked up to the thermovalve and then to #17

[Doward]

Do you have the old diagrams still? I liked them better than these, actually... :)

[accordlxi2.0]

here ya go.

http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=11067

[Doward]

Those are the new diagrams... he had some older ones (black and white with red/blue/green lines depicting the vacuum routing) :)

[A20A1]

Well, I need to adjust those old ones a bit... damn and I thought these were better.

punk... lol j/k :D

[Mike's89AccordLX]

So Mike you just put line #25 to the thermal valve? I have a problem.... when I powder coated my intake manifold I figured I didn't need the thermal valve since I had it capped off before. I have the Weber 32/36 as you know. So is that vacuum port stronger? Should I relocate my plug and vacuum port? I don't have a thermal valve so I can't use one.

-Mike

Let me know what you think I should do. Oh and I need a higher flow fuel pump can you suggest any inline FP's? I would like to have the fuel pump in the engine bay. I don't want to have an in tank pump.

Thanks again.

[A20A1]

tap into brake booter vacuum but make sure you add a big diameter segment of hose to give a little more vacuum to the advance, that way when you apply the brake the drop will be less... well in theory.

[A20A1]

wait, I gotta rethink soemthing I'm not quite sure what you are saying

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Do you want me to paint shop the pics to show you what I have and what my setup looks like?

[A20A1]

there is no vacuum from the thermovalve, but there is a port at the rear of the carb next to the brake booster that has stronger vacuum.

[A20A1]

lol #25 is supposed to have a "T" that breaks off to manifold vacuum, but there is also supposed to be a vlalve there... I found a diagram, but for somereason that part is cut off of the pic... I can't see how it routes to the valve, it may just be a check valve.

Yeah go to the how-to and look at the diagrams at the very bottom, it shows a check valve branching off #25, that should connect to manifold vacuum. the orange cap part faces the manifold vacuum port.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Alright from looking at the diagram I plugged off all the vac. ports on the back of the intake manifold except for the one labeled Man-V. I have vac lines 25 and 2 T'ed into one vacuum line and going into the Man-V port. Do you understand what I mean by this? Or should I draw something up? And how would I tap into the brake booster line? I think anything with taking vac. away from the brakes is a big no no.

-Mike

[A20A1]

I know what you mean
Forget about taping brake booster...
you can add the themovalve to the thermostat housing if you want... I updated the diagram... just move the termovalve A to where the thermowaxvalve A is. You'll need and air bleed as well...

who knows you may not need the thermovalve, maybe you can get rid of that part and just run with the air bleed valve controlling vacuum to #25.

If you don't have the required parts then don't use #25, its only really going to make a difference when the car is cold.


EDIT: here this should work okay as long as you put the thermovalve where is can get intake air temps... just drill two small holes one for the air bleed screw and the other for the vavle vacuum port... again if you don't have the air bleed forget about it and just disconnect #25 or leave it how you have it.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Ok I don't have any of those check valves or the air bleed. I threw that all out when I did the vac. removal a long time ago. Got any of those lying around Mike ? :) And also when you say drill two small screws, one for the air bleed screw and one for the valve vacuum port, I'm not sure if I remember how this mounts so I don't quite know what you mean by this. Do I mount that air bleed thing inside my intake tube? B/c I don't have an airbox like the carbs do.

And if I just disconnect #25 do I leave it open to the air or cap it off? I would still have to run #2 to the Man-V right? Would I still need the check valves? I would like to do this the best way possible since I want the car to run the best it can all the time.

Thanks for the help Mike,
Mike

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Hey Mike I was just wondering what you think I should do about my setup.

Thanks again.

[A20A1]

I think you should.... bow down cause I have 10,000 posts.. lol
then you should forget about the #25 and just run with #2 as long as your ignition advance is hiiting the correct timing mark when you look at it with the timing light... you are okay... assuming you set it to TDC without vacuum advance hooked up, and didn't cheat to reach the advance timing mark by turning the distributor...

If it doesn't reach the timing mark on it's own with just #2 then connect #25 as well, no valves just directly to manifold vacuum.

So in effect how you had it... #2 and #25 both manifold...