Will this compressor take 134a?

[Slavic]

I knew there was something going on with the board. The thread I started on this is no more so I'm re posting.

I'll be very brief. I need to change the compressor or "re-seal" the original compressor swapping the one from my parts car being the preferable option if it will work with 134a. So will it? If not how do I re seal the original one?

Here are the pics of both:
originalhttp://home.comcast.net/~slavic/AC_CO009.jpghttp://home.comcast.net/~slavic/AC_CO010.jpgParts car

Another thing that I was thinking about is if it is that important to flush the system before refilling it seeing that there are parts of the system that you aren't supposed to flush at all? You can't get all of the old stuff out so why even bother? Just a thought.

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

Your original compressor appears to be a NipponDenso model. The second one I am not sure about, but judging by the clutch design, it is probably a Keihin. The Keihin is not compatible with r134a because its front seal is not designed for that refrigerant. The NipponDenso can be used with r134a. Can you get a better photo of the second compressor from a different angle? The back cover plates on each compressor can be used to easily identify them. Keihin has a kind of cross-hatch pattern on the plate, while NipponDenso is msotly smooth and wraps around the back of the compressor. Hope this helps. Here is some info from the FAQ: http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=17247&highlight=compressor+keihin+nippondenso

[Jareds 89 LX-i]

Actually the compressor on the right is a Sanden SD-508 compressor. Excellent compressor from what I hear. It's a rotary vane type, compared to the axial type (nippondenso) or radial type (keihin) that came stock on our cars. This compressor came in a kit type thing you could buy from Honda or aftermaket (still can buy it) for about $700. Rotary vane is nice cuz it's quite efficient and uses very little HP to run. If the Sanden is good and you have the brackets and hoses needed to put it in, use that one. Both are compatable with 134a

Oh and you should flush the system, remembering that you can't flush through the reciever/drier, expansion valve, and obviously the compressor. While your at it you might as well replace all the o-rings so you can eliminate any leaks from there. Then put a NEW expansion valve and reciever drier in, and fill with the proper amount of ester oil, pull a good vacuum and charge it up (I find 24-25oz or 134a works quite well as far as charging goes). Remember to flush some clean ester oil through the compressor before putting it in, and add oil to the system in various locations, and some in the compressor (but not all). Rotate the compressor by hand about a dozen times after it's installed to slowly circulate the oil and prevent it from hydolocking when it kicks on full speed.