Idle and Stalling Problem (running out of hope)

[steveman09]

Hi I'm new to the forum. I was very excited to find a forum dedicated to this car since I'm having a world of problems with mine.


Where do I begin?


I got a 1987 Honda Accord DX Sedan 5-speed w/2.0 Carb Motor from an Auction, the engine eat a huge ammount of oil and was totally shot. It also would not idle and die if you didnt leave your foot on the gas.

I then went out and purchased a JDM 1.8 shortblock engine to replace it.

I transferred over all the existing accessories, belts, etc, etc.

I then put a new timing belt on while I was at it, as well as a Clutch Kit.

I assembled everything back in the car and it fired right up. Now the engine is fine except one problem, it will NOT idle or stay running at low rpm's.

While going down the road and you come to a stop if you push in the clutch the engine dies everytime allmost. Also when trying to idle it misses pretty severly then stalls. I have been trying to figure this problem out for the last 2 months with no success.

Here is the list of things i've done to try and fix this problem.

New Carburator
Checked and Replaced ALL cracked Vacuum Hoses
Checked Timing
Distributor Cap & Rotor
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Thermovalve A & B
Intake Manifold
Verified all Vacuum Line Connections are correct (this took a LONG time)


The only thing I havent tried yet is messing with the mixture screw on this carb I pulled off a 87 Accord at the junkyard (the old carb didnt react to changing this screw setting), I figured since it was on a running car it was set close to spec's or close enough to run at idle. Another thing I think I'm going to do is replace the carb o-ring seal and gasket (intake manifold) which I havent done.

I have to set the idle up to 1200-1500rpm to keep the car running and if I set it to 1000rpm it barly runs but If I pump the brakes it goes down to 500rpm's and slowly stalls if I keep pumping.

I did notice on the Cruise Control there is a big vacuum line (appears as it is) That is cut and not going anywhere but I couldnt find where it goes for the life of me. If somone could post a pic of there engine bay around the cruise control servo I would greatly appecriate it.

As you can see I'm really trying to make this baby run and pass emissions since I love the car but this problem has me thinking of giving up on it.

Please help. :sad2:

[A20A1]

I'm confused since you said you transfered stuff from the A20 to the A18... but they have two different style heads, and one has a 2bbl and the other dual carbs... so are you now running dual carbs?

Some of the Vacuum lines on the cruise control are just drain tubes

Do you have all the ground wires hooked up?
- Radiator support to valve cover
- Wire harness near trans to thermostat housing

I need to know what carb you have or if you have the A20 head on the A18... or what not... did you get the control boxes for the A18 motor?

[accordlxi2.0]

hey i'm not a wiz like you a1, but when i had leaned out my mix too much, that's what happened with me.
the guy had mention he has the idle around 1200-1500rpm's then when he set's it to 1000 then it barely run's when he pump's the brake's it goes down to 500rpm's.
it was my a/f screw, i adjusted to richen it a little, it was fine.

just my 2 cents

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

Here are some pictures of the cruise control:

http://zakm.front.ru/MIscelanious/Cruise1.JPG
http://zakm.front.ru/MIscelanious/Cruise2.JPG
http://zakm.front.ru/MIscelanious/Cruise3.JPG
http://zakm.front.ru/MIscelanious/Cruise4.JPG

Hope they help you.

[A20A1]

I agree with that...
but how is he running the 2bbl on the A18, I thought they were different. Unless the JDM head is different then the USDM one.


Check to see that the primary mixture cut-off solenoid is getting power when you turn on the key... if it's not then you'll block fuel from flowing thru the idle circuit

[accordlxi2.0]

ohh.....
yea how is that possible . . . . .
and homey with the money that you had i would've cinverted that baby to efi!

[steveman09]

the JDM A18 is a direct drop in and works with all USDM A20 accessories, intake, etc, etc.


It's what all the shops in my area do to these car's that need a new motor.

I will check the primary Cut Off Solinoid for power, and now that I come to think of it there was a MISC NO NAME HOT wire dangling in the engine bay that somone had run for somthing, this could possibly be for that solenoid!!!!

I will check it out ASAP and get back to you guys.

THANKS FOR ALL THE REPLIES!!!!


Also those cruise control pics are nice but I need to know where that hose goes right off the servo, in your pic it makes a 90 degree turn then disappears under the servo, I would like to know where it goes.

Thanks

BTW cruise control doesnt work, tried it yesturday.

[A20A1]

90 degree? hmm I thought it was the ventilation hose that just pokes thru the car body... you'll se a rubber grommet, not sure though.

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

That is what I saw on mine too A20A1. It is basically a braided hose that goes straight down into the fender. I looked and I don't think it connects to the engine anywhere. Its probably just a vent to prevent moisture from building up inside the unit.

[steveman09]

ok I made some progress, the mixture cutoff solenoid has power at the harness so its working.



I did however notice a few things.


first the PCV hose comming off the valve cover is SUCKING AIR IN??????


I then removed the PCV Valve and capped off the other end that goes directly to the intake manifold and the PCV hose on the valve cover started BLOWING. Also the engine started to run much better.

I then disconnect a vacuum line on the right side of the carb and now I can idle the car below 1000rpm but vacuum is still weak accoring to my gauge (less than 13hg at idle)

Also pumping the brakes still makes the car die.

Does anyone know if the PCV on the valve cover is supposed to SUCK or BLOW?

I'm going to be switching the intake manifold with a junk yard one I got along with the vacuum emissions box on firewall and new Gasket's.

Hopfully this will fix it.

[A20A1]

On the valve cover, the breather hose is supposed to attatch to the aircleaner... that way your intake creates a suction on the valve cover and removes gasses...
If it's the other way around and the valve cover is sucking in air then maybe your valve seals are worn... or it could be from the suction from manifold vacuum to the crankcase... the drop in pressure causes the valve cover gasses to move towards the crankcase.

Thats kewl but interesting and at the same time could be bad and good so I dunno, but anyways

The manifold vacuum port connected to the PCV valve is responsible for removing blow -by gasses from the crank area ( crank case ) anyways disconnecting the vacuum probably stopped the gasses from being injested by the manifold so there was a build up of pressure which then transfered to the valve cover thru the cylinders and valve and what not... and started to blow gasses out. Or there was just no suction from the crankcase end so the valve cover gasses decided to find their own way out.

At high throttle vacuum drops and the PCV valve is open fully to get rid of the gasses quicker since the motor is reving quicker... at idle the valve only bleeds a little.

It sounds as though your PCV valve isn't operating properly... maybe becasue it's old or because you have a vacuum leak in that area or low vacuum from a leak somewhere else... Replace the PCV valve if you haven't already and replace the hose and the gasket around the valve... that should fix the vacuum leak, unless it'f from somewhere lower in the PCV system, or somewhere else altogether.

[steveman09]

the PCV is brand new as well as the hoses.


I'm leaning toward Intake Manifold and Carb Gasket leak.

[A20A1]

Time to bust out the carb cleaner... :D

[steveman09]

Ok I have an update.



I have come near the end of the road with this POS.


I have replaced the entire intake manifold assembly, carb, black box, and replaced ALL cracked vacuum lines, and traced every single line and made sure they are in the right spot, I even replaced the intake manifold gasket, both carb gasket's.


I'm thinking it has to be the distributor, does anyone have one they can loan me to test in the portland area?

If it is the dis. then I will be willing to buy it from ya if it works.

Please help!

[A20A1]

Have you checked the Stator Reluctor gap?
http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=22648&highlight=stator+reluctor

[accordlxi2.0]

just look inside the distributor assembly, if it's red it's no good.

[A20A1]

Also check the blue and green wires that run thru the inside of the distributor...



I seeee you " AA "... please don't post here... because you have an EFI motor... please post in EFI tech not carb tech.

[steveman09]

I'm beginning to think the timming belt is slighly off effecting my engine vacuum and causing these problems, I will check it out and let you guys know.

[A20A1]

If not timing belt then valve lash...

[DanG86LX]

"..Also pumping the brakes still makes the car die.."

That couldn't be good! Try plugging the big vacuum line to brake booster, maybe the booster leaks!

[accordlxi2.0]

ohh man that's some bad shiznitz if it does.
yea valve lash is another thing that'll affect the accord performance.