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Robs89LXi
08-13-2004, 10:54 PM
Quest: To create a quick, reliable, street-legal daily driver.

Platform: 1989 Honda Accord LXi 5-speed Coupe.

History: I purchased this car with 70K miles on it from the original owner in 1994. The car had been impeccably maintained, and ran strong for me for the six years I had it after that. In 2000, I sold it to my then in-laws who were in need of some reliable transportation. The car had 215K miles on it at that time. The only mechanical work that had been done to it was replacement of the driver side CV joint, and rebuild of the 5th gear which went out. I bought the car back in 2003 for $500 when my stepdaughter needed a car. The car now has 246K, and at that time, the engine had still never been touched. When my stepdaughter decided she didn't want it after all, and ended up buying a Civic, I decided to keep it and make it my toy.

Route: The car will be modified to accept forced induction (turbocharging) in an attempt to reach a reliable, drivable, street legal 200whp.

Plan: This will be accomplished through five major phases as follows.

1. Engine prep and rebuild
2. Engine management upgrade
3. Turbocharging (non-intercooled)
4. Turbocharging (intercooled)
5. Suspension/brake/body modifications

While the first four phases will be sequential, the fifth will be an ongoing process during this period.

Notes: Since I live in Houston where smog testing is a requirement, keeping the emissions legal will be a prority during the project.
The hot climate down here will also be a factor to consider for engine cooling.
Since this is a rather costly undertaking, the progress is expected to be rather slow so as to not cause a financial burden. I do not expect to conclude the project before 2005, but you never know.
Updates to this thread will be prompt and as informative as possible.

Robs89LXi
08-13-2004, 11:15 PM
The engine and transmission were removed from the car, and the engine was stripped down to the bare block. This was then sent out to Scroggins Machine, Inc. ( http://www.scrogginsmachine.com/index.htm ) here in Houston. A set of Diamond pistons, complete with ring set and wrist pins were purchased from Sean of Accordcentral.com ( http://accordcentral.com/ ), and these, along with ARP rod bolts and ACL performance bearings were installed. The machine work performed was as follows:

Boil block
Bore and hone cylinders
X-ray and polish crankshaft
Sqare deck block
Recondition rods + install ARP bolts
File fit piston rings
R & R pistons
Install performance ACL bearings
Resurface flywheel

Diamond pistons, rings, pins = $390
ARP rod bolts = $36
Machine work + ACL bearings = $700.
Running total: $1,126.

Piston specs:
8.5:1 CR, 0.032" overbore, moly rings, stock wrist pin size.

Here are some pics of the final product:
http://www.3geez.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3416&stc=1
http://www.3geez.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3417&stc=1
http://www.3geez.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3418&stc=1
http://www.3geez.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3419&stc=1

A20A1
08-13-2004, 11:17 PM
Oh so you are already working on it... :D The way I read it was I thought you were just getting stared. NIce project... it sucks that image attatchments don't show if you post more then 1 per post.

Sorry about all the sticky threads above your's, It was the only way to make the very old threads visable without bumping them with a lame post from me... I'll add you to a sticky if this forum ever gets 2 pages long again.

Robs89LXi
08-13-2004, 11:20 PM
For now, the head will remain stock. The head was cleaned up, heat straightened, resurfaced (to include valve shave), new guides and seals installed, and 3-angle valve job performed.

Head work = $250
Running Total: $1,376
The engine will begin reasembly next week, but will be a slow process as work has been pretty busy lately.

Robs89LXi
08-13-2004, 11:26 PM
Oh so you are already working on it... :D The way I read it was I thought you were just getting stared. NIce project... it sucks that image attatchments don't show if you post more then 1 per post.

Yeah, actually started back in late March, but had to wait almost four months for the pistons. Yeah, sucks about the pics; would be nice to be able to just past them in. Had to reduce them to 25% too just to make it upload.



Sorry about all the sticky threads above your's, It was the only way to make the very old threads visable without bumping them with a lame post from me... I'll add you to a sticky if this forum ever gets 2 pages long again.

No sweat. Like I said, it is going to be a slow project, but I hope an informative one. You already know my opinion on those who do not share information :ugh: . I'll try to be as detailed as I can and include costs as I go. Thanks for the support.

Robs89LXi
01-25-2005, 07:21 PM
With so many functions of our EFI engines relying on vacuum, what happens when you go into boost? What problems with vacuum activated functions have you encountered, and how have you dealt with them?
Thanks.

AccordEpicenter
01-25-2005, 07:24 PM
Well the vaccuum activated functions dont activate. They generally dont operate unless your closed loop anyway (cruising, driving around town) and dont do anything at wot... so you dont really notice a difference anyway

A20A1
01-25-2005, 07:55 PM
Check valves, brake booster... not sure though.

Robs89LXi
01-25-2005, 08:02 PM
Does anyone have a comprehensive list of what all operations are governed by vacuum on our engines? I've never realy looked deeply into this, but with boosting on the horizon, and having to be smog compliant, I need to know what to expect.

86LXItooFAST4me
01-25-2005, 08:47 PM
i thought that the vacuum issue is resolved with a stand alone ECU? i mean if i were to go boost on a car that wasnt built for boost, to make it all "functional" you would have to wouldnt you?

AccordEpicenter
01-25-2005, 09:31 PM
it probably wont make a difference out of boost, and if youre going for smog compliance youll have a hell of a time trying to get it to work out, youll probably have to set the car up the way it was stock to get it to pass, then swap everything else back in. Another thing you can do is pull the wastegate actuator off the turbo so you dont spool up and get boost, and change the injectors back to stock ones (aftermarket injectors tend to make the emissions skyrocket) and breathe thru a cat or 2

Elijah
01-25-2005, 11:21 PM
Iv never had a problem with any vaccum lines or leaks or anything

RobT5580
01-26-2005, 06:10 AM
As for the vacuum setup with a stand alone basically you eliminate all that mess. Off the top of my head the vacuum box controls: EGR, Dual Stage Intake, Map, and distributor. If you guys could work out an OBD-1 or OBD-0 distributor then you can go electronic and open up a lot more fuel management options. As for emmissions i know of people that passed easily with proper tuning but worst case you can slap the stock stuff on for the test.

Robs89LXi
01-26-2005, 06:32 AM
Iv never had a problem with any vaccum lines or leaks or anything

Elijah, are all your vacuum lines hooked up just like stock? And are you using a missing link in your setup?

smufguy
01-26-2005, 06:55 AM
Rob T is right on the money. Especially when your going boost, its better to get converted to OBD-1 and go on from there since you can run ur stand alone or piggyback or that uberdata everyone is talking about to take care of your smog inspection. U can also try to get the B series manifold and Tb and you will notice a lot of sensors are not present like our A20. The only things you will need are the

here are the things i can think of that run on Vacuum on stock accord

1) Map
2) Secondary butterflies (not needed)
3) stock distributor
4) Fuel pressure regulator
4) EGR solonoid
5) Charcoal canister
6) cruise

of the above, 2 and 6 can be just thrown out.

of the above 4 and 3 are your biggest hurdle.

THe only problem you will have to face with smog is the EGR. since you cant adapt an external egr to the late B-series manifold or a turbo manifold. BUT, you can have the turbo manifold made to accept the egr but using the stock intake manifold.

Even tho you can bypass the sensors by running a standalone or piggyback, extensive turning needs to be done and proper rev limit set to pass emissions and smog without the aid of egr. Its been done and it can be done, but its just hardcore tunining, which ofcourse you will be paying ($75 an hour cheapest for tuning).

So yeah, every other sensor that is made to operate in less than 1 atm pressure can be switched out, like the map to accomodate the rise in pressure, but things like the distributor that can work only under certain conditions needs to be switched to a exectronically controlled distributor (OBD-1) to have control over the timing.

these are just suggestions, there could be alternatives to this rob.

89T
02-11-2012, 07:44 PM
I am bumping every old turbo thread. Is it running or gone.