my Brakes are Possessed

[markmdz89hatch]

Ok, here's the deal. For some reason (the guys at the local shop could'nt explain), my rotors warp on me every 5K mi. or so. It's rediculous. I have replaced the calipers with new (rebuilt) ones, and at the same time, put NEW rotors on, also replaced the master (it needed it, the plunger was leaking a little), and still, the same problem. The car is OK for the first few thousand, but it progressively gets worse, to the point where you step on the brake and you feel like your in an EARTHQUAKE.

I thought maybe I needed to replace the brake hoses. What do you guys think?

If that is the case, where can I find the Stainless Steel ones?

:wtf: :werd:

This is how my car feels right now: :barf:

[OldSchoolSwap]

Brake lines will not cause this.
Rotors will! Where did you get the rotors from? What brand are they? how much did you pay for them? Do you drive through puddles alot?

[OldSchoolSwap]

Also, it could be your tires that are not balanced.

[Jims 86LXI HB]

I had a problem with warping. I replaced them with dimpled slotted brembos and EBC brakes pads. After a very carefull break in period, I went about my normal routine. I make frequent quick stops, sometimes from triple digit speeds. I have NO warp problems anymore, period, and my front brakes are twice as effective with greatly improved brake pedal feel. BTW I also installed new calipers. The EBC pads do create more brake dust than stock, but considering how impressed I am with their performance, I'm overlooking that. When I get my new car my first mod will be to equipe it with those rotors and pads. I was about to order stainless steel brake lines to improve pedal feel even more, but stainless steel brake lines will have zero effect on brake warpedge.

[markmdz89hatch]

checked the tires/wheels, they're balanced, actually had them rebalanced.

got a front end allignment

new raybestos rotors

Puddles= I don't aim for them, but when it's raining, they get wet.

The only reason I suspect the hoses is b/c they are original and the car has 196K and climbing rapidly. I saw somewhere, actaully multiple places, that the hoses can deteriorate from the inside, and a small piece of the rubber can lodge itself in the hose cavity, and restrict the fluid flow. I was told that this, in turn, can cause the caliper not to release, or to release slower than normal, which can in-tern cause the rotor to heat up and eventually warp.

[markmdz89hatch]

now if that's not bad enough, as a result of the earthquake in the front end from the brakes...

...the CV is now on it's way out due to the excessive shaking
...the allignment falls out of wack easily
...all of the bushings are spent

...and not that it makes it any better, but the front struts are shot on top of it all. Now I'm sure that the strust being shot is not a result of the brakes, but that makes the hole idea of repair suck that much more

:wtf: :wtf: :wtf: :wtf:

[OldSchoolSwap]

Boy! Your full of problems aren't you?:D
Did you say both rotors are warping at the same time?

[accordlx]

Do you ride your brakes? Are your back brakes working at all? These are the 2 questions that I would be asking right now. I would also want to know if both rotors are truely warped or is it something else. I thought I had a warpage problem but the shake when I brake (hey I made a rhyme) turned out to be worn out ball joints, not the rotors. Were the rotors you had "turned" and were they really warped badly. I know 3rd gens are notorious brake warpers but to me, your problem sounds a little suspicious. I agree with Jim 10000% on this one though. There is absolutely NO WAY that the brake hoses themselves are causing this warpage unless they are clogged and they are making the brakes drag as you drive.

[markmdz89hatch]

the dragging while driving is what I suspect is the culprit, mainly b/c, well for instance now, when I'm driving, and nail the brakes, the car shakes, (due to the warpage), and then even after releasing the brake for about the next 10-15 seconds, the car continues to shake however gets progressively better as time goes on. Until (of course) I need to get on the brakes again.

No, I don't ride the brakes at all.
No, it's not both rotors, or at least when they were turned, the drivers side was way off, and the passenger was not bad at all, if it was even warped. Like I said before, after I get the rotors turned, for a little while ( a few thousand miles, give or take) the car brakes perfectly.

The bearings were checked, and they were suprised that they were in perfect shape, especially for having over 190K on them. The ball joints, I have not had a chance to check them out myself, but when on the lift I asked them to take a look, and they said that they look fine.

I don't know.

That's why i figure, the rotors are good for one more turning before I gotta trash 'em, and why not upgrade to stainless braided lines, after all, if I'm eventually gonna go with the real good (brembo) rotors, and better pads, why not do the hoses too.