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rideredorgohome
09-05-2004, 05:52 PM
Hi guys
i just wanted to know which way do I turn the clutch knob to adjust where it engages. My knob is down at the bottom of the screw adjuster thing and my clutch engages almost at the top of the pedal. Does this mean I have to put a new clutch in again? I have had this one in for about 30,000 kms/2 yrs. Is that poor wear? please help thanks

hondamanlxi
09-05-2004, 06:34 PM
loosen to have the pedal engage CLOSER to the floor and visa-versa

rideredorgohome
09-05-2004, 06:37 PM
ok so does this mean if i turn to the right (couterclockwise) it is tighter and left (clockwise) for looser? Thanks

hondamanlxi
09-05-2004, 06:38 PM
righty-tighty lefty-loosy

Slavic
09-05-2004, 06:45 PM
The best way I know to make it as tight as possible is to lift the front end, tighten the knob to where you're unable to shift into 1st and/or reverse and engage it than loosen it gradually until you reach the point where you can shift into both 1st and reverse and engage it.

edit:
My internet connection is timing out to the point where I wish I had dial up reliability. I'm so pissed with comcast. There was no replies when I was ready to post mine.

shepherd79
09-05-2004, 07:07 PM
you should have any problems shifting, if you do, your sincros are gone.
to adjust the clutch so it will engage on the floor, just loosen the nut.
i would recomend to adjust it to shop manual specs.

Slavic
09-05-2004, 08:15 PM
That procedure is from a manual. Probably Haynes manual. If you tighten the knob all the way you will not be able to shift into 1st or reverse. If you don't belive me try it and/or check the manual for yourself.

rideredorgohome
09-06-2004, 04:52 AM
That procedure is from a manual. Probably Haynes manual. If you tighten the knob all the way you will not be able to shift into 1st or reverse. If you don't belive me try it and/or check the manual for yourself.
Well Slavic that was the funny thing, my knob was tightened all the way down to the bottom of the adjuster shaft. I was still able to shift into first and all the gears, although the car tended to be tough to get into that gear occaisionally. I did have trouble getting into reverse tho.....but after I posted last night I went out to my car and loosened my knob quite a bit and took it for a test drive around my block a few times. Clutch engages sooner now and car shifts better although I still have to play with it a little. Thanks guys.

shepherd79
09-06-2004, 05:55 AM
if you tighten the nut all the way, your clutch will stay engaged all the time. what you are doing by tighting is raising the lever arm, and it has to go up if you want to engage the clutch. so if the clutch stays engaged all the time and you try to push on the pedal, you are putting some extra force on the clutch and pressure plate.

if you can't shift into 1st or reverse no matter how much the cable is adjusted, you have a problem with your tranny and not your clutch.

Slavic
09-06-2004, 11:39 AM
Well, I didn't just pull what I said out of thin air. I read it somewhere and it worked exactly as described. If I tightened it all the way when trying to put it in reverse after putting it in first it would grind until I loosened it some. I don't remember if at any time it wouldn't shift into 1st, but I remember very, very clearly it wouldn't go in reverse when fully tightened. The car has to be running and you have to engage the clutch. You have to shift into 1st before shifting into reverse because reverse will sometime grind otherwise which is normal even on a brand new car. Something about reverse being semi synchronous or something.

Maybe it would have gone in reverse if I kicked the shifter but it not shifting when I applied normal pressure while seriously grinding was enough to tell me I need to loosen the knob a bit until it does shift without grinding at which point it is set as tight as possible for normal operation.

In any case FYI clutch cable release arm free play is supposed to be 13/64" to 1/4" (5.2 to 6.4mm).