im removing all vacuume lines ...few ?

[Neuspeed87lx]

ok im gona be going all out on the vacuume line removal mod .... im looking at the how to site on it ... the only thing i dont understand is number 2 .... it says "You will have to modify a vacuum secondary in to a manual secondary." and it shows a picture ... i guess what i am trying to say is how the hell do you do it .... besides that im all set .... im gona be starting it tuesday night .... how long did it take u guys that have done it ? im going to see if i can get the car on a dyno before and after and see what comes out of the mod but im not sure if im gona be able too ...ok thats it ... thanks guys

[A20A1]

I updated the how-to http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=11067

On my DX It took me 30min - 1hr on one car to remove the A/C, powersteering, vacuum lines, and convert the carb to mechanical secondary.

Save all the parts you remove.
These are a few images from a member that followed the how-to.
http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=21255

You need to remove the A/C idle boost part shown in the pic i drew on Shpeherds site and move it over the the secondary throttle shaft... the correct positioning is shown in yellow... you need to remove the washer so that the A/C idle boost part has room to fit on the shaft... don't overtighten the shaft nut or you'll bind the throttle plate inside carb barrel and end up with some serious problems if your throttle sticks open.

[Neuspeed87lx]

thanks a20 i knew you would come threw ... oh another ? how is the idle with all the shit removed ?

[A20A1]

I suggest you set it up the way it show on the diagram unless you want to remove the choke and A/C idle boost components... other then that leave the A/F screw alone if you haven't touched it already.

Then when you do the dyno run you can run like that first then on a second run you can plug letter "A" on the carb and on the Air jet contorller and see if that bumps up power. and at what rpm.

[A20A1]

Idle will be 100% smoother, if you keep the throttle contorler/Idle Diaphragm and also keep the a/C idle boost if you have A/C


cold weather will need the choke and manifold heater... but most peopble don't remove the manifold heater when doing the vacuum removal.

last thing will be the fuel mix which as long as you keep the Air jet controller connected should be just fine...

oh and also if you decide to connect both #2 and #25 to manifold vacuum you'll end up raising your idle and in some cases could experience knock... so if you need to just use line #2 and plug the port on the vacuum "T" you don't need to plug the #25 port on the distributor diaphragm cause I believe most use a dual diaphragm... so there will be no leaks.

[Neuspeed87lx]

k i do have ac but it is never used .... so i dont need the ac idle boost right ? but if i dont need it why did you say this before ?

"You need to remove the A/C idle boost part shown in the pic i drew on Shpeherds site and move it over the the secondary throttle shaft... the correct positioning is shown in yellow... you need to remove the washer so that the A/C idle boost part has room to fit on the shaft..."

[A20A1]

well you don't have to convert to mechanical secondary to remove the vacuum lines... I hardly count the vacuum line from the carb venturi vacuum port to the secondary diaphragm as an actual vacuum line.

but you need the A/C idle boost part to convert to mechanical secondary... oh shizzle hold up dude.. I forgot I had a digital camera... pics will be up soon on how to convert your carb to mechanical secondary.

[Neuspeed87lx]

oh oh i see .... well what are the advantages of converting to mechanical secondary ? ... sorry if these are stupid questions i know very little about carbs

[Neuspeed87lx]

oh and another question ...what did u use to plug all these holes ?

[A20A1]

I updated the vacuum line removal how-to I linked above... go there to see pics of the secondary conversion.

Use the black vacuum cap pictured in the how-to... some are 5/32" the reast will be larger then that... like the ports on the manifold... it's best to buy a pack of miscillanious sizes for the larger caps. But you'll need a lot of 5/32" caps

[Neuspeed87lx]

ok well im gona start working on this tomorrow night so hopefully all goes well .... a20 i hope you will be around the board tomorrow night .... because im gona be here askin questions im sure ....

[shepherd79]

are you going to keep the choke?
if you are not keeping the choke, i still have my old carb sitting in the garage. it worked like a charm.

[Neuspeed87lx]

did u keep yours ? wouldnt the car run like shit in the mornings without a choke ?

[shepherd79]

the car ran fine when i stuck a piece of wood between the pedal and the seat.
all you have to do is raise the RPM for about 3-4 minutes to get it going.
Plus the carb is rebuild with jets being redrilled for more fuel.

[RobbyKlotz]

This mod is well worth it, i am so happy with the results. I would like to find me another carb to play with...

[Neuspeed87lx]

ok i did all the removing of lines ... went to fire it ... i can get it to start but it stalls ... i just have to fuck around with the idle screw and the air fuel mixture screw ?

[A20A1]

umm before you adjust screws you need to warm the car up completely... if you adjust the idle when cold you will end up with a high idle problem once the car warms up...

[Wipeout]

I removed the choke on mine and it really hates colder weather (40 degrees). I am planning on putting the choke back on as well as the fast idle unloader. Other than that I am really pleased with the vacuum removal stuff. If you have any specific questions you can feel free to IM me on AIM, I'm usually on.

[A20A1]

you can always try a manual choke if you have problems getting the stock system functioning properly.