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View Full Version : Vacuum diagram and questions.



bc86
10-14-2004, 09:56 PM
I read somewhere that there is 7 different variations of carbs for the 3rd gen accord?? Is this true?? Other question, what would the effects be of tipping your carb upside down. I did not do this, but Im having major problems trying to get my car to idle after removing motor to do rear oil seal. Im 100% positive all vacuum lines are correct, what else would contribute to the loss of idle?? Elec connection?? I've also been lookin for a proper how to on adjusting the carb, havent had any reply so far, and the one I did find, I was told it was wrong. Being that I have no idle, unless choke is on, does it make sense that adjusting the A/F screw does nothing. Also, car runs like crap under 1000RPM. Im open to any suggestions. I also degreased engine compartment with powerwasher while motor was out, any chance water got into vacuum lines, and fuckin shit up?? Methol Hydrate?? Any thing here!! Plz!!! Im beggin all of u.

A20A1
10-15-2004, 03:16 PM
check to make sure fuel isn't gettng into the vacuum lines which could suggest a leaky top hat gasket.

bc86
10-15-2004, 04:42 PM
Top Hat??? How would fuel get into the vacuum lines??

A20A1
10-15-2004, 10:03 PM
vacuum sucks... top hat of carb has passages for both fuel and vacuum... gasket seperates passages... if gasket fails passages link up... vacuum sucks up fuel.

bc86
10-16-2004, 09:41 AM
So wuts an easy way to check to see if fuel is going through vacuum lines?? Any signs of it in black box?

A20A1
10-16-2004, 11:08 AM
Well actually ABC air jet controller lines are about the only ones that could collect fuel, thought they shouldn't be pulling much vacuum sometimes they do from just above the throttle plate.

hrm... well about the fuel thing don't worry, I'm going off on a tangent... but a leaky gasket can effect the idle system.

Tipping the carb could unseat the float needle which can lead to carb flooding.
You need an electric connection to the sholenoid at the back of the carb as well as the choke heater.

You also need BOTH GROUND WIRES...
one from the wire harness near the transmission to the thermostat housing
and
one from the valve cover to the metal support that runs across the top of the radiator.