Simple Wiring Question

[1986DxAccord]

Im tryin to hook a fuel pump back up but the harness that goes back down to the gas tank area is SHOT!. I was wondering if the accessory(sp) wire is hot when the car is running and also when the switch is in accessory(sp). Im goin to wire it in with the stereo :sad2: and if it isnt hot on both could someone tell me one that is. Or help me find some kind of wiring diagramh(sp).Please. Thanks

Chris

[Vanilla Sky]

the harness shouldn't cost but a few bucks at a junkyard... just replace it, man...

[POS carb]

yeah the easiest fix is to go to a u-pick yard and cut off the harness from another, leave as long a wire as you can on the plug that you take, then you can splice it on to the existing wires. i can't think of any accessory wires back there you can use, unless you want to hook up your defroster switch as a fuel pump switch, it'll double as a kill switch, just remember to disconnect the defroster grid.

[1986DxAccord]

yeah the easiest fix is to go to a u-pick yard and cut off the harness from another, leave as long a wire as you can on the plug that you take, then you can splice it on to the existing wires. i can't think of any accessory wires back there you can use, unless you want to hook up your defroster switch as a fuel pump switch, it'll double as a kill switch, just remember to disconnect the defroster grid.

Thats what I was thinkin man. Kill switch.

[1986DxAccord]

Thanks guys.

[Immeraufdemhund]

whoa... you can't do it that way cause the fuel pump relay turns on then off when it primes your system. otherwise it causes unnecessary stress on your fuel pump. once it's running then it runs. I'm not sure if it runs all the time or if it works like an air compressor (refill when it's low on fuel) I believe it runs all the time and just drains the extra pressure. You could just run wires directly to it from your fuel pump harness. there are i think 4 or 5 wires. 2 split off for your fuel level guage. and the other 2 control your fuel pump. ... replace the harness.

[Mac]

Don't use the rear defrost. There is a timer in the system and after 20 to 28 minutes of operation it opens the ground to the relay and removes power to the defrost grid. You will lose power to the fuel pump at the same time.

The best advice is to do it right. Get the right wiring (from the junk yard or parts car) and connect it back up to the original wires.

[POS carb]

oops! :b

[joebeets]

You have to run the FP off its relay, which cuts the power when the engine dies--safety feature, in the event of a crash.

[smufguy]

damn Eric :slap: , lol i think this is the first time u ever fumbled. :kekeke:

Well everyone pretty much said what needs to be said. Kill switch is better placed on the main line to the fuel pump rigging it to unused switch like the cruize switch is good. Also, the fuel pump runs constantly, it does not change its speed but as mentioned, it does need to pump the fuel lines to take out the air and keep the system under pressure for immediate start up.

[joebeets]

But I don't think you should ever bypass the fuel pump relay. If your fuel line ever ruptured in a crash, you want the pump to shut off automatically, in response to the loss of the rpm signal, to prevent emptying the remaining fuel onto the ground.

Although you could have a kill switch that opened the circuit between this relay and the coil.