Whtas wrong with the timing?

[HC_LXi]

Today i checked the time on my car and when i was going to put it like it says on the hood (15 degrees) the car with the distributor all advanced goes like 28 degrees and with the dist retarded it only goes to 24 degrees?ANd in the hood and in the manual says 15 degrees.




Sorry My English :rolleyes:

[accordlxi2.0]

what do you own.. an dx, lx, lx-i, se-i

fuel injected or carb..

[hondamanlxi]

just a wild guess but.... an lxi maybe ;)


the timing belt maybe be off a tooth or two. Are you capping off vacuum to the DIST?

[HC_LXi]

Its a 89 lxi and i have the two vaccums from the dist connected.

[HC_LXi]

Help people !

[Oldblueaccord]

I'm not sure what your question is.

The timing should be set to the red mark on the fly wheel. Thats about 15 degress. AT idle with the vacuum advanced plugged.

The way the distributor are made on out cars we cant move them very much. 28 degees either way is about right.


wp

[HC_LXi]

I'm not sure what your question is.

The timing should be set to the red mark on the fly wheel. Thats about 15 degress. AT idle with the vacuum advanced plugged.

The way the distributor are made on out cars we cant move them very much. 28 degees either way is about right.


wp

The thing is that i think that i have a flywheel from a carb cause the only mark that have it says 24 deg and does not have a 15.

[Oldblueaccord]

The thing is that i think that i have a flywheel from a carb cause the only mark that have it says 24 deg and does not have a 15.


Does seem odd/from your picture I noticed that your intake manifold looks nothing like mine I have an 88 lxi. It seems not to have the dual runner design.
You can keep andvacing the timing until it pings under a load and then back it off a few degrees. The idle goes up as you as you advance the timing as a referance. I would double check that the timing belt is in the correct position as well. Its pretty easy to get the cam sprocket one tooth off on these year cars.


Thinking some more if your car is from out of the USA you may have better octane gas then we have hence 24 degrees might not be wong at all.


wp

[shepherd79]

if you have carb flywheel, and you set your timing according to it, your timing will be way retarded.
the only way to do is set the timing by T mark. warm up the car untill fans kick in. disconnect the vacuum lines on distributor and plug them. shine the light down on flywheel and turn distributor untill you get T (top dead center mark) matched with little pointy thing. secure the distributor. recheck the timing making sure it didn't move when you were tighting bolts. plug the lines back on and you are done.

[HC_LXi]

Does seem odd/from your picture I noticed that your intake manifold looks nothing like mine I have an 88 lxi. It seems not to have the dual runner design.
You can keep andvacing the timing until it pings under a load and then back it off a few degrees. The idle goes up as you as you advance the timing as a referance. I would double check that the timing belt is in the correct position as well. Its pretty easy to get the cam sprocket one tooth off on these year cars.


Thinking some more if your car is from out of the USA you may have better octane gas then we have hence 24 degrees might not be wong at all.


wp

The intake manifold im using is an B18B.

[Haulin' Asphalt]

Hi, I am new here, been searching all day for someone with a prob like mine... I am wondering if my timing is off. Car runs great until about 5000 rpm in 3rd gear... Then fuel shuts off and car goes into "limp" mode I thing. RRRR RRRR RRRR RRRR like it is jumping. We also are not pulling any vacuum from the advance??? Why??? I have an 88 LX-i, we have replaced the distributor 3 time, and put new vacuum advance, and new cap, new wires... I do not know what is wrong.. Any help here???

[Autowiz]

the number on the hood refers to when the fire should come in relation to tdc on the compression stroke. and, the number on the hood is base idle. after you block off your vacuum line(s). and make sure your car is idling at the rpm specified also on the hood.

the best thing you can do, for timing issues, is pull the valve cover, very simple, 3 ten mm bolts, then the upper timing belt cover. get a big 1/2 drive ratchet, put it on the crank pulley bolt, and by hand spin the motor(CLOCKWISE ONLY) until you line up the marks on the crank pulley to 0 tdc. then look and see where your cam marks are. and while youre right there, take a quick look at the condition of the belt. if they line up ok, then you might have a problem with your distributor. but out of curiosity, are there any drivability problems with the car? or were you just trying to check your timing?

[Haulin' Asphalt]

Yes major driveablilty probs... I race my car on a asphalt circle track, once I hit 3rd gear at about 5,000 RPM the car cuts off, it is still running but no fuel, after a few seconds it will "pick back up" and "jump" the tach spikes, it feels like it is only getting fuel and sparking every other second. I have code 8 and 9 keep coming up on the ecu. We have changed the distributor 3 times, (all from a junk yard) and we have replaced the vacuum advanced (bought new). When we stripped the car, my husband remove about 40 wires he thought we didn't need, and remove all fuse boxes and the vacuum box... We have since replaced the vacuum box, but we are not getting any vacuum from the vacuum advance. Not sure why??? All wires from the distributor test "good". I thought maybe our timing was off and that those sensors in the distributor were not able to "read correctly", but we tried moving the the timing belt one tooth ahead and one tooth back tonight, but that didn't "fix" our problem. We are still getting code 8 and 9.(depends on when you start it) We have tried another ecu but still code 8. I have switched coils, not that either, we removed the msd box, not that either... I am at a total loss!! This car screams when it runs right!!! Please I hope someone out there can help.

[Oldblueaccord]

Yes major driveablilty probs... I race my car on a asphalt circle track, once I hit 3rd gear at about 5,000 RPM the car cuts off, it is still running but no fuel, after a few seconds it will "pick back up" and "jump" the tach spikes, it feels like it is only getting fuel and sparking every other second. I have code 8 and 9 keep coming up on the ecu. We have changed the distributor 3 times, (all from a junk yard) and we have replaced the vacuum advanced (bought new). When we stripped the car, my husband remove about 40 wires he thought we didn't need, and remove all fuse boxes and the vacuum box... We have since replaced the vacuum box, but we are not getting any vacuum from the vacuum advance. Not sure why??? All wires from the distributor test "good". I thought maybe our timing was off and that those sensors in the distributor were not able to "read correctly", but we tried moving the the timing belt one tooth ahead and one tooth back tonight, but that didn't "fix" our problem. We are still getting code 8 and 9.(depends on when you start it) We have tried another ecu but still code 8. I have switched coils, not that either, we removed the msd box, not that either... I am at a total loss!! This car screams when it runs right!!! Please I hope someone out there can help.

Himm that does seem strange.

First welocme to the site. It be better if you had started a new thread.

It sounds like for some reason the fuel cut off is coming on even though it should be around 7400 rpm or so. I am wondering if your tach is not reading correctly first off.

I dont know if the codes have anyting to do with the problem but at 5000 rpm there is a switch over the the other short runners on the intake. It s a vacuum actuated valve on the intake on the drivers side. MAybe theres some kinda of problem with this switch over.

If your husband removed a bunch of wires good chance theres a problem in what he removed. Since your racing I would get rid of the catilyitic converter also JIC it is plugged.


wp

[Haulin' Asphalt]

Sorry, I now realize I should of started a new thread. I guess I was hoping my problem was as easy as just the timing not right... I have removed the cat, I have a header with just a straight pipe after.

Funny you mentioned the intake.. My husband remove the "butterflies" from inside the intake, should he have not done this? I am aware of the plug you are talking about, we unplugged it and then plugged it back in, you could hear the intake sucking air by doing this... So I can only assume that plug is good Another strange thing is if I unplug the TPS the car will reinact the problem... Plug it back in and it is fine. The more I dig into this the more I start to see that he stripped too much out of it.

[shepherd79]

the fuel cut off is set at 6950 PRM i believe on Efi 3GEEZ.
since your husband tried to fix the opoblem, we can't tell when he did exactly.
the codes 8 and 9 are:
8 TDC Sensor (Top Dead Center)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

9 #1 cylinder position
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

check the circuit on it and make sure you try different distributors.

but as far as i can see, you can check the timing very easy:
let the car warm up untill the fans kick in at least 2 times.
diconnect the vacuum lines from distributor and plug them.
connect the timing light according to its manual.
shine the timing light on the flywheel. the whole is right under the distributor.
you should see some markings. at this time you can set distributor to T mark (it is TDC mark). the should be running.
connect the vacuum lines back to the distributor and shine the line again. this time the marking should be diff. it should say 15. if it doesn't say that, your distributor vacuum adavnce is not working or you are not getting vacuum.

if you are not getting vacuum you may want to check with shop manual on how to connnect the vacuum lines.

[Haulin' Asphalt]

Ok, well we have checked timing again and again, that is good. I am about to give up and push it off a cliff... The vacuum lines are all hook up correctly, except for one line that plugs into the intake, I believe it controls the "butterflies" inside the intake, my husband took those out... How important are those butterflies? We thought more air would flow through without them. Am I wrong?

The plug we unplugged last night I guess was for the AC which I don't have anymore... So that really didn't tell me anything...

Do we have an ECU expert among us here at 3geez? I think between the wiring and the ECU is where our problem is. Is anyone here from Ohio? I am willing to pay for some help.

[Haulin' Asphalt]

Oh, forgot to tell you, we have tried 3 distributors, the connections are all good to the sensors. Sorry...

[shepherd79]

the butterflies are there to give you bottom end boost.

the best way to test the connection between sensors and ECU. take a wire and connect to a wire you want to test. use OHM meter and check. if it it flows free, the ohm meter won't register anything. test each wire from distributor plug to ECU. make sure they are in proper order when they connect to ECU. you will need shop manual or ECU pin out. Shop manual works better since it has electrical diagrams.

the other thing you may want to try is remove the fuel cut off relay and resolder. this will keep it from cutting out at high speeds.

[Haulin' Asphalt]

I want to thank you for all your help today. I am going to put the butterflies back tonight recheck all the wires... Wish me luck! Thanks again!

See you at the races!!!!!!!!

[Haulin' Asphalt]

Well, we still have not figured out my problem with the code 8... We rewired the distributor direct to the computer, checked the resistance and we have one wire that is pulling way too much resistance... Can not figure out why. Anybody here have this problem before?? The resistance is coming from the computer... Help anyone!