Carb problems ( Dies after start ) Check Distributor Cap / Rotor

[NeoCloud]

I also have some carb adjustment probs whenever u guys can get back to me.The screws for throttle and air fuel mixture(sry named it wrong this should be the ac/idle boost and the idle controller and the throttle stop screws I meant) are rusted and stuck a little,but I need to know how far away the screws end is supposed to be from the bracket/lever/plate,mainly the air/fuel screw,I know how to adjust the throttle screw,but the air fuel screw is not really doing anything cause the screw end isnt even near the lever plate,is this normal considering i can smell gas,and am burning rich i think.?Also I just now noticed that the battery light lights when i try to start the car,but only if I try to gas it a little,if I dont gas it,the light goes off,slowly and dimmy.By the way its the 88 Accord DX Hatchback,and its worth saving to me.lol.(from previuos post)I have adjusted everything once again,the problem lies after putting the air tray and the vacuum lines back on,the car idles differently after that,and its all most impossible to get to the air/fuel screw when it is on the carb.I tryed adjusting throttle stop to compensate,but it chugs if I idle it too high after putting the tray and lines on,I think it has something to do with the other screw,the air/fuel adjustment screw or whatever u guys call it,lol.HELP PLEASE.

[88Accord-DX]

I re-build the carbs quite often & generally set it as follows. I screw it (air/ fuel mixture screw) all the way in untill it stops ( don't tighten to tight), then I back it up 2 complete turns. I then do some final adjustments if needed.

I don't have much time right now, sure later on A20A1 guy will help you out more.

[POS carb]

the carb is supposed to have a cover on the mixture screw from the factory, It might still be in there. Get a small mirror and check, you should see a small flathead screw in there next to the coolant line

[NeoCloud]

Now I have a new problem,though it might still pertain to carb adjustments.The motor only starts when cold,when I let it sit and run for 5 minutes or less it shuts off and if I start it again it shudders,sputters and studders(lol).I think this might have to do with the air fuel screw again,but just to make sure I was gonna ask u guys if there is any sensors or anything of that sort that might also be the problem.Also I wanted to add that there is 6 vacuum lines that connect to the air tray,am I right?(plus the sensor that connects on the tray)and could the sensor there be any trouble.My choke flap in the carb is all the way open at idle also,I dont know if this is normal.My Idle goes up and down alot after idling for 5 minutes,I got it running a little longer than 5 minutes now by adjusting the throttle stop and idle screws,it seemed to have worked for now,but im afraid it will shut off again,it is idling right now,and has been for 10 minutes,with occasional sputters,which makes me think its a fuel line or filter problem,but just to make sure please answer any of my questions or all above,thanks.

[88Accord-DX]

The Air/Fuel mixture screw is supposed to have a tab on it to keep people from messing with the factory settings. The re-build kit says count the turns on it before removing. The 2 turns back is a general setting. You could back it out a little more if needed. The throttle plate should have a slight opening when NOT running, (about 2 millimeters) I'm not exactly sure what it looks like running at this moment. There could be some issues to where you need to re-build your carburetor. There are some How-To's on here. Look into fuel pump and filter too.

[NeoCloud]

The Air/Fuel mixture screw is supposed to have a tab on it to keep people from messing with the factory settings. The re-build kit says count the turns on it before removing. The 2 turns back is a general setting. You could back it out a little more if needed. The throttle plate should have a slight opening when NOT running, (about 2 millimeters) I'm not exactly sure what it looks like running at this moment. There could be some issues to where you need to re-build your carburetor. There are some How-To's on here. Look into fuel pump and filter too.
thanks dude.

[A20A1]

From how it sounds are you sure you are adjusting the Air fuel mixture screw?

It sounds like you are confusing the AIR FUEL SCREW with the IDLE CONTROLLER SCREW.

The air fuel screw is at the back of the carburetor inside the base of the carburetor.

The idle controller is on the front left side of the carb and the ac/idle boost is on the right rear of the carb and the Throttle stop screw is at the left rear of the carb.

you cannot see the air fuel mixture screw with the carb installed... you'd need a mirror. It's my thought that you shouldn't mess with it at all unless you know what youare doing.

looks like I'm going to have to post pics... :)

[NeoCloud]

From how it sounds are you sure you are adjusting the Air fuel mixture screw?

It sounds like you are confusing the AIR FUEL SCREW with the IDLE CONTROLLER SCREW.

The air fuel screw is at the back of the carburetor inside the base of the carburetor.

The idle controller is on the front left side of the carb and the ac/idle boost is on the right rear of the carb and the Throttle stop screw is at the left rear of the carb.

you cannot see the air fuel mixture screw with the carb installed... you'd need a mirror. It's my thought that you shouldn't mess with it at all unless you know what youare doing.

looks like I'm going to have to post pics... :)
Taking pics of what went wrong now,and no I wasnt confused about the air/fuel,but I just got the names mixed up with everything ive been doing(I havent touched that one yet) in theses pics im taking with my really crappy digi cam(hopefully they arent to small to see)There are two screws that are the most noticeable on the left and right side,the one on the left is the idle controller,I know that,but im confused of the right side screw that looks identical(they both have screw-head sheilds)to the idle controller,if its not throttle stopthen its probably the a/c boost,it might be the spring wearing out on it or something of that matter,but it doesnt exactly stay in place while revving,it is extremely loose,even before I touched anything.The whole story goes one day my car got hot and shut off.I checked all fluids,checked if fan kicks on,and changed the filter.It still did it even after letting it idle in the driveway for 5 minutes.And it was also chugging like a diesel now for some reason.I have never took off the bottom half of the air tray(on this accord)yet,but the top half to change the filter.I took off the bottom half to get to the idle controller(yes I know u can get to it now without having to take it off)I adjusted the idle up a little and the chugging stopped a little(it was low rev at idle anyway,about 900rpm)and put the tray back on.As soon as I put the tray on it shuts off.Then I adjust the other screw just a freakin tweak and I notice it is loose.It ran for 10 minutes then shut off again.It could have something to do with running it completely out of gas,and it might have sucked up the crap out of the bottom of the tank.I dunno why I cant post attachments,my images arent workin,im trying to fix it.....im putting one in my avatar for now,my cam software is different and a different format or something,I forgot how to put images in here,lol.UPDATE:just noticed my power steering overflowing at the cap,lemme know if you think this might be a related problem to everything else,it is boiling liquid when it comes out,and I never overfilled it,I only added some about a month ago,makes me think there is a clog in the system,overheating a sensor or something,and shutting off the motor,but then I dont think that would do it either.

[88Accord-DX]

That yellow screw adjust the float bowl. It has yellow paint on it from the factory. If the paint is chipped and what not, then you can tell if someone has messed with it.

[NeoCloud]

That yellow screw adjust the float bowl. It has yellow paint on it from the factory. If the paint is chipped and what not, then you can tell if someone has messed with it.
whats it supposed to be set at,do u know?the paint was allready chipped when I first seen it.This next avatar(untill I can get my photos to upload)photo is of the screw if you are standing on the driver side,on the right side of the carb,and from what A20 said,it would be the a/c idle boost if I am guessing right.

[88Accord-DX]

There is a sight glass on the side of the carburetor, the gas should be about half way up on the glass. You can adjust the float bowl while the car is running, (so you can get the gas level where you need it to be) that is the only way you can adjust it without taking the top off the carb. I can't see where that screw is. A20A1 could give you more accurate name. I got to go to school at the moment.

[A20A1]

Yeah thats the a/C idle boost screw... you adjust that screw after you've set all the others... its supposed to be adjusted when the car is at idle and you turn on the A/C

it basicly bumps up the rpm a little to make up for the drop when the A/C is on.


The main idle is set by the idle controller on the left... but before you set that you should set the throttle stop screw so that you have the best possible low idle speed... usually 800 - 900 rpm ( Automatic )

Make sure all the other screw aren't engaging the throttle or the throttle stop screw wont have an effect.

Also do all your screw adjustments when the car is fully warm.
http://www.3geez.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3845

[NeoCloud]

Thanks A20 and dude for the info,I still cant get it running for more than 5 minutes,and I know it is burning rich now after carefull observation of the float bowl glass yesterday.I have a manual,is that the same idle rpm(900)I should set it at,cause I dont have an auto.Also I dont use the a/c anyway b/c there are no lines going to the a/c,lol.So what do I do about the a/c screw....whenever u get back to me.(god I wish I didnt have to wait 24 hrs for an answer,as I gotta go catch the bus,lol).Sry if this is becoming a long thread,and/or if you guys are tired of teaching me how-to,I thought it was going to be easier than this,but this car really hates me for some reason.You can tell some1 has beaten the crap out of the motor in its previuos lifetime,and I might think about a complete engine swap or just an efi conversion kit,but will continue fixing this carb untill I get more money so I get a good motor and/or a good efi kit.But Im not giving up hope yet,it still runs good before it shuts off,it revs up from 1,000rpm to 3-4,000rpmgradually and slowly untill it is fully warm,allthough if u hit the gas it drops the needle back down b4 it is warm.When it shuts off,the carb spits out like a train blowing out the air brakes.I have pics of all sides of the carb as I have bent myself into a pretzel trying to get under the hood,lol.update:I looked through the sight glass and allthough I fixed the float bowl screw to halfway,the car still shuts off after five minutes of warming up.I can still smell alot of gas,so when I get time later I'm gonna take all the fuel filters off,I just need help finding the one in the back of the car,I thinks its on the driver side right in front of the tank,I found the one under the hood,and was wondering which filter is the best to buy for this car and to prepare for any mods im gonna make.The idle just drops unexpectically after it revs itself up to warm up after starting.I noticed the fans kick on right when it shuts off,after about the 3rd time of starting it and letting it shut off.

[NeoCloud]

it's a thermo valve or thermowax valve... usually the valve will close or open depending on the temperature of the coolant... I'm guessing that when the valve is open the car operates cold start and raises the idle. So when you closed the valve manually the idle dropped as if the engine had warmed up. It really depends on the operation of the valve though... some simply bleed vacuum while others direct vacuum somewhere for a specific use at certain coolant temps.(came from u A20)
I think this could be my problem, or one of them.

[NeoCloud]

A new fuel pump and pressure regulator is a must for these carbs. I would reccomend bypassing the first filter and getting an upgraded --edit-- fram --edit-- fuel filter for under the hood. They make a nice big filter that will outdo the stock ones.(came from performance upgrades in carb tech thread/post by K-Roy)
I dont know if I can use this filter,tell me if it wont hurt or give too much fuel or something,please,thanks

[DanG86LX]

Ur engine shutting off after 5min warmup or when fast idle coming off maybe due to:
1. a massive vacuum leak.
Taking air box off is no big deal and should be taken off every time u work on carb. But there is a vacuum line #8 which is coming off with the air box. #8 comes from intake manifold vacuum port and it should be plugged, otherwise u get that massive vacuum leak. Also when u put air box back, make sure u plug #8 back on. If u already done so then check for some other vacuum leaks, should be an obvious one!

2. blocked carb idle passages.
When that happen, ppl tend to adjust stop screw in till they get "some idle" as crappy as might be..
Thing is throttle gets opened too much and engine sucks gas from venturi instead of idle nozzle (under throttle) and transition ports (4 little staggered holes).
Cleaning idle passages means taking carb top off, idle jet off, spaying all those little passages...

[NeoCloud]

Ur engine shutting off after 5min warmup or when fast idle coming off maybe due to:
1. a massive vacuum leak.
Taking air box off is no big deal and should be taken off every time u work on carb. But there is a vacuum line #8 which is coming off with the air box. #8 comes from intake manifold vacuum port and it should be plugged, otherwise u get that massive vacuum leak. Also when u put air box back, make sure u plug #8 back on. If u already done so then check for some other vacuum leaks, should be an obvious one!

2. blocked carb idle passages.
When that happen, ppl tend to adjust stop screw in till they get "some idle" as crappy as might be..
Thing is throttle gets opened too much and engine sucks gas from venturi instead of idle nozzle (under throttle) and transition ports (4 little staggered holes).
Cleaning idle passages means taking carb top off, idle jet off, spaying all those little passages...
One of my friends dads suggested taking the fuel pump and all the fuel lines off and replacing them due to cracking and heat wear,because he said the fuel lines might be weak enough to close up after the car gets hot,due to the inner walls of the line being weak and cracked.Also im gonna use that big ass fram fuel filter in performance parts thread,and replace the other filter too.My other question :is there more than two filters?,I know about the one under the hood and the one all the way under the car near the tank.I dont think this is gonna fix my problem because you can still see gas in the carb when it shuts off through the sight glass near the float bowl.Maybe its filling back up so fast after it shuts off I dont notice,or there isnt enough pressure or something,but replacing everything is the only way to know for sure.Also,air tray on or off,its the same,it shuts off the same and idles the same,and no,I checked every single vacuum line like 50 times,so I'm pretty sure its not that and #8 is always put on,but not plugged,cause I usually put the tray back on before I start it.I have sprayed every single port in the carb with carb cleaner with the carb top on,I'm afraid to take it off,cause the seal will need to be replaced,allthough it is still intact untill it comes off.If what I'm about to do doesnt work,I will take the carb off and either clean the crap out of it,replace it with efi kit or get a holley and adapter plates and all that.I want to save this car,it ran sooooo awesome for about two months,I could chirp 2nd on a hot day on dry ass pavement,and get to 70 in third in no time.I dont know who had this car b4 me,but they painted the valve cover with pearl purple-pink mica,which makes me think there is something in there like a cam or something,but the rest of the car is falling apart,so I guess you really wouldnt be able to tell how fast it really is untill you fix everything else.I know I raced my freinds lxi stock pos(he doesnt take care of it or change his oil or anything,but it is still fast enough to compare)and tore his ass up by at least 10 cars,lol.So I hope there is hope(uhh)...for my car after I frankenstein it,lol.update:thanks paul and everyone for the pdf shop manual,it has helped me find alot of things that are covered in so much crap you couldnt tell where the seals meet on the rear drum cylinder and the backing plate,you also couldnt see the/and through the sight glass on the carb,the bracket on top of the transmission that the negative ground for the battery goes to was sooo covered in crap the screw-hole was closed and I had to look on the manual on the comp to see where it was and shoved a screwdriver through it,lmfao.I am now looking through the rest of it,eliminating everything one by one.I know how to post pics,I didnt have my freinds website/server info I needed,Im getting that now,the pic in my avatar is my venturi in the forward chamber.

[A20A1]

The float bowl will usually have gas in it when you shut the car off... if it were to drain that quickly after you shut the car off it would mean something was horribly wrong.

I would replace those battery connections.

#8 needs to be plugged if you run without the air box... I have a thread that tells you how to run the car without the air box so you can tune it.
http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=38108

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[88Accord-DX]

I'm going to chill on this thread and let the carburetor gurus handle it.

[NeoCloud]

The float bowl will usually have gas in it when you shut the car off... if it were to drain that quickly after you shut the car off it would mean something was horribly wrong.

I would replace those battery connections.

#8 needs to be plugged if you run without the air box... I have a thread that tells you how to run the car without the air box so you can tune it.
http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=38108

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The car shuts off by itself with gas in the float bowl window on the side of the carb,with air tray on or off.Also I just talked to a mechanic buddy of mine that said my thermovalve/and or the thermostat near the header where the top radiator hose goes into the block,the whole thermostat and/or the thermovalve body around the outside is rusted and possibly defective by now.Is there really a thermostat inside of the body I'm not seeing,and what is the thermovavle for?

[A20A1]

The thermostat looks like a UFO... or one of those spin tops.

anyways. the thermovalve controls vacuum based on coolant temp. There are three thermovalves... one is for choke and the other is for vacuum advance and the last is for the vacuum secondary... I could be wrong though... it's been a while since I've had any thermovalves on my car.

If you don't have coolant or not enough... or if coolant isn't flowing correctly then the thermovalves can't fuction properly.

the thermostat body doesn't rust... it's aluminum.

when you removed the air tray did you plug the vacuum lines first before running the car?

also don't adjust the float screw or it could leak.

If you nottice a heavy gas smell check the position of the choke is it open or closed... make sure you haven't pressed the pedal too many times because everytime you press the pedal a squirt of gas goes into the carb.

make sure you have good electrical connections... there is a solenoid at the back of the carb that needs to be connected to the black wire or your carb wont idle.

also you need to have both ground wires connected to run the car... the first ground wire comes up from the the wire harness near the trans and connects to the thermostat housing. The next groung wire goes from the valve cover to the radiator support near the driversside headlight.

[NeoCloud]

The first time I ran the car with no plugs,then after that I did plug #8 and #33.Maybe the other steel parts around the outside casing(body or whatever)that holds the thermovalve and thermostat near the left/front side of the block could have caused the little bit of powdered rust on top of it,but the whole thing is white powdered,and gets extremley hot after the car warms up,then about 2-3 minutes later it shuts off.Can U please post a pic of where exactly the thermostat is?,cause I got three different mechanics telling me two different things,one says its on the outside,the other two say there is one inside the under or near thermovalve C(I think thats it).The overfill tank is to the max line,and the radiator is full too,not too full.I adjusted the float screw to halfway with a certified mechanic to make sure it was legit,he said it was under a little,but not off enough to matter about the car shutting off.He is the one mechanic saying the thermostat should be on the outside on top of something.I have printed almost the whole manual,including component locations(12-96)(also where I got thermovalve C from), but cannot find it.I checked the solenoid near the back of the carb,its fine.The choke is closed when cold start,opens as heating up,and stays open when the car shuts off as long as it is hot.Even when the car is off the choke eventually closes,or when I go to start it when its cold again or had been letting it sit for 5-10 minutes it is closed.What do you do with the vacuum lines #17(I think #17 is ok to leave open)and#28 on thermovalve C after you route the line on the carb to the secondary diaphragm,plug #28 and dont worry about #17?or just put both connectors together on thermovalve C using tubing?I have sanded down all the brackets and mounting points for the negative wire,and reconnected,but the internal wiring in the dash is melted,twisted and fried from someone else who had it,probably from trying to put a deck in it,but my battery light has stopped blinking so far,and the car cranks like the battery is from heaven(lol).I noticed the carb sputtering out gas when the car shuts off sometimes,followed by clunking like its still trying to run and the it shuts off after about 6 clunks.The choke is fully open when it gets to normal temperature and when it shuts off.I just dont understand why it runs sooo good when its warming up,and then unexpectatley shuts off with no signs of why.

[NeoCloud]

2. blocked carb idle passages.
When that happen, ppl tend to adjust stop screw in till they get "some idle" as crappy as might be..
Thing is throttle gets opened too much and engine sucks gas from venturi instead of idle nozzle (under throttle) and transition ports (4 little staggered holes).
Cleaning idle passages means taking carb top off, idle jet off, spaying all those little passages...
This sounds relevant other than the fact that I see the gas coming from a hole in the back wall of the chamber up near where the top-hat seal is(nozzle?),I need to know about how much the throttle stop knob is supposed to be set at,but I cant tell cause the car shuts off right when it gets to normal temp.

[A20A1]

http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=30272
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[DanG86LX]

.. I see the gas coming from a hole in the back wall of the chamber up near where the top-hat seal is..

No thats not idle nozzle, thats accelerator pump nozzle. Gas is not supposed to come from there at idle or high idle, unless someone is kicking gas pedal!

The idle nozzle is under the throttle and bypass port (4 holes) right where the throttle closes. Hope the pic will come up:
http://www.ualberta.ca/~dg5/Honda/Fuel/11/9a.gif
..at idle vacuum from under throttle sucks air/fuel mixture from idle nozzle, vertical passage, flow control jet, flow control tube, slow fuel meter jet, passage to main jet inlet.
When i had same prob as yours, the passage @ "slow fuel meter jet" was blocked, but it could be anywhere..
BTW if u have air jet controller, unplug and plug the ports @ carb. I dont have it.

[A20A1]

Was that pic from the shop manual?

[NeoCloud]

Ok you are right Dan,the gas only comes out of the accelerator pump nozzle when the throttle is hit.Thanks A20A1,I figured out the thermostat is inside of the housing and the thermovalve needs to be replaced also.Isnt there a seal between the housing and the block that needs replacing,or is that the same seal for the thermostat?also is my car the A20A1?plug all the ports on the carb?,and what do I do with the thermovalve vacumm line #28 after you route the secondary diaphragm line to the carb?

[NeoCloud]

Ok,I talked to another mechanic who said it probably isnt the thermostat or anything related,it is the wiring in the dash for the fuel relay sensor or whatever and the other wiring for the rest of the fuel system,the fuel pump and other crap.I have to look on the manual to see what exactly is wired to the dash and if the wires cross anywhere and so forth.Then go rip out what I need out of the junkyard,and start replacing it,wire by wire.This is truly gonna suck cause the dash really doesnt go back together after it comes apart.I'm thinking of finding one with good wiring and ripping everything out of mine.I also cant find the honda seal for the thermostat anyway,so I didnt buy it.I dont know who to believe anymore,because everyone keeps saying,"No that couldnt be it, cause it wouldnt run for 5 minutes and then shut the car off"....no matter if they are talking about the fuel system,the thermostat,the vacuum lines or the electrical,lol.

[DanG86LX]

Seems like u talking to 100 mechanics who never seen a 3geez before!
There is nothing wrong coolant related. Nor electrical, otherwise why the engine is running 5min at high revs.
Also fuel system is ok, same logic. Leave thermovalves alone, they doing what they suppose to do. and yes 17 sucks air, is a air bleed line used in many of the vacuum systems around the engine.
By ur description ur choke is perfect, running the high idle show for 5min, but after that the idle system on carb is suppose to take over.. Well obviously there is something wrong with it.
U said u checked the cut-off solenoid valve, the one attached @ back of carb. How? If in doubt just take it off and plug the hole, see if u get ur idle back.
Dont plug every vacuum port @ carb unless u know what u r doing. I said plug the port where jet controller line "B" goes, b/c seems to go to idle passages (see pic), maybe something wrong with jet controller ?!
Also for testing, plug the big vacuum suckers: PCV, EGR and brake booster..

A20A1, yes my manual, a lil diff than Paul's.
Sorry guys for such a big pic, it was ok on my browser tho..

[NeoCloud]

Thanks Dan,Merry Christmas to all,I can't figure it out,it probably is the carb cause I showed my mechanic (friend) the solenoid and he said once again,"that wouldn't shut the car off after 5 minutes of running" and that it was fine,cause it does look new and was probably replaced less than a year ago before I got the car.I dont know what to do with it anymore,it still runs for 5 minutes and shuts off with about 5 or 6 turn over clunks and a sputter of the carb near the choke plate spitting out a tiny bit of vaporized gas.Then If you try to start it again it wont for about a minute or two.Then when u do get it started,it clunks the same way for only about one or two turn overs.If you let it sit for 5-10 minutes,it starts normally and doesnt rev up,it sits at 1,000 rpm and will run for 5 more minutes the second time.I am about to give up anyway and throw on a new carb or efi kit,wire harnesses for the dash and everything and probably new relays and sensors if I can find them.Or I will give up and no longer be a 3geezer,lol.Merry Christmas,Happy Chaunakha....or whatever the hell your religion is,get drunk and play with toys that you dont deserve,lol.

[88Accord-DX]

I suggested that from the get-go to re-build the carburetor. You would be suprised what a difference it makes. The thing is, you need to be carefull & do it right. :thumbup:

Happy X-mas BTW too. :alc:

[A20A1]

A new fuel pump and pressure regulator is a must for these carbs. I would reccomend bypassing the first filter and getting an upgraded --edit-- fram --edit-- fuel filter for under the hood. They make a nice big filter that will outdo the stock ones. (came from performance upgrades in carb tech thread/post by K-Roy) I dont know if I can use this filter,tell me if it wont hurt or give too much fuel or something,please,thanks

You can use this FRAM filer, the pic shows the size of the filter in relation to its packaging... the part number on the box isn't real... I think it was used for a demostration peice.
http://www.3geez.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3641

I would be careful if you decide on getting a pressure regulator... some will cause fuel lock out and drain the float bowl... but they are nice cause they give you this crazy boost before it decides to cut the fuel... so it's like this love hate thing. :D If you upgrade the pump be careful cause our carbs use low psi... I'd think you're safe with about 3.5 psi... few regulators go that low... and fewer performance pumps put out that kind of pressure.


...But Im not giving up hope yet,it still runs good before it shuts off,it revs up from 1,000rpm to 3-4,000rpmgradually and slowly untill it is fully warm,allthough if u hit the gas it drops the needle back down b4 it is warm. When it shuts off,the carb spits out like a train blowing out the air brakes.

Thats normal in some situations. The spitting could be from a slight diesel.



I have pics of all sides of the carb as I have bent myself into a pretzel trying to get under the hood,lol.update:I looked through the sight glass and allthough I fixed the float bowl screw to halfway,the car still shuts off after five minutes of warming up.I can still smell alot of gas...

There are a few possibiliities when adjusting the float screw... sometimes you have the float setting too high, but because of a weak fuel system fuel never fills the bowl fast enough for the level to drop in the float window.

The other posibility is that the Float screw is leaking and the float setting is too low... this means your float will fill up because of the leak and doesn't stop when the float seals the fuel passage it just leaks thru the seals and fills up the bowl to the normal level.

In both cases you have a improper float adjustment but it doesn't seem that way cause the fuel is in the middle of the sight glass.

Just a thought.


I suggested that from the get-go to re-build the carburetor. You would be suprised what a difference it makes. The thing is, you need to be carefull & do it right. :thumbup:

Happy X-mas BTW too. :alc:

I agree a rebuild would eliminate a lot of potential carb problems.

[NeoCloud]

I didnt think I would get to post untill after Christmas due to my work shedule and having to get a ride to work,lol.I give up on my car,the vacuum lines are so old they are cracking and flattening,the wire harness in the dash is fried all the way up to the firewall and the fuse box,but suprisingly still works,lol and the body has rusted before both rear tires,the hangers for exhaust,brake lines and others and in places under the car.I just want to have it as a parts car or junk it after I rip it apart.I actually squeezed enough time out of my crappy ass life to find other hatchy's for sale that arent rusted out and are in pretty good condition for around 1,000 to 1,800.If any of you guys know of any close or around West Palm Beach or whatever give me a holla.I seen one on the site for 1,250 and he was gonna try and drive it down here from somewhere for someone else,dammit,Im tired as hell,lol.I forgot who,I can't find the thread, plus I really am running out of time allready,lol.If I ever remember,I will come back and fix this post.

[NeoCloud]

Well my car still sits out front waiting for its demise and last walk of its life,to the junkyard.I am going to rip out the engine and anything else I feel valuable that might work on another accord, when I get one.If there is anything of value I could use on my next car that I dont know about,plz hit me back.thnks.-Update fixed car,nevermind this message now,lol.

[kilgorq]

Here is a new one to me and I am basically baffled...

1rst gear engine will rev to 5K no problem. Some times will cut out at about 4750 but not too often.
2nd gear engine starts to cut out and die at 3500 to 4000
3rd gear engine cuts out at 2500 to 3000
4th gear cuts out out at 2000 to 2500
5th gear 2000 or less sometimes...


40 to 50 mph seems to be the common factor... It is worse when it is raining. checked plugs, cap, rotor, and float levels out all look OK. Also this is with a full tank of gas. and When it dies it will jerk you down the road but if you push in the clutch it returns to idle and idles fine.

This was an seldom thing and now it is always...
All of the carb mods have been done except the choke and mechanical secondary.

I Hope someone can help with this one.

[AccordEpicenter]

97 LX carb... do you meen 87 LX carb?

[kilgorq]

97 LX carb... do you meen 87 LX carb?


Yes fat fingered that one... Sorry.

[joebeets]

I think the common denominator is engine load, or vacuum. Not max or min, but somewhere in between. The rain part suggests a high-voltage ignition problem, like wires. So at that point, demands on the spark must be highest. Try misting everything--coil, wires, dist.--at idle when dark, looking for sparks. May have to replace coil and igniter if all else electrical tests OK.

[POS carb]

The car is starving for fuel

fuel line blockage, fuel filter, or pump

( my $ is on the filters)

[A20A1]

Check the booster venturies as well, make sure they do not move at all.

[kilgorq]

The car is starving for fuel

fuel line blockage, fuel filter, or pump

( my $ is on the filters)

It finally stopped raining and the problem went away. I just went through and replaced the fuel pump, carb, and all of the filters less than 2 months ago. I am almost positive that has to do with high humidity... (Correct me if I am wrong) The first couple of days after it stopped raining it was still showing the problem in third and fourth at higher RPM's and now it is not showing it at all. The air is a lot dry now than it was then. I looked for sparks in the dark from the ignition system and did not find anything there either.

[kcaudill]

Check the booster venturies as well, make sure they do not move at all.
What and where are such things? What do they do also?

[kilgorq]

Check the booster venturies as well, make sure they do not move at all.

They are nice and tight. I also double checked the float level and fuel flow and they both looked good... My initial thought was that it was running out of fuel. and while that is still a possibility I am Thinking probably the ignition system. Unless I have something strange going on with the fuel pump when humidity is high. Which to me just does not make much sense because it sits in gas all of the time.

[kilgorq]

What and where are such things? What do they do also?
a booster venturi--a venturi positioned in the center of the main venturi in your carb.

[POS carb]

yeah water in the tank will have a similar effect to running lean, pour some rubbing alcohol in the tank if it keeps happening, it's supposed to blend the water and fuel to burn or make the water evaporate, whatever.

[NeoCloud]

After all of the confusion(and a very long time since last post,about 6 months.) you guys would not believe what the whole problem was in the 1st place,if u guessed carb,you are wrong(and so am I).It was the distrubutor not supplying spark after it gets hot or carbon build-up.I took off the dist.,and cleaned around everything a little with just a cloth,then replaced it and to my surprise,the car did not shut off after 5 minutes like it always did.I went and bought a new dist.cap and plugs,and now it never misses,and runs excellent...after so freakin long it was the smallest thing I didn't see.I also replaced the fuel pump because I noticed no gas in float on carb,but that was before I got the dist.cap.I can not believe it,and I am soooo glad I didn't junk the car,as the motor runs like a champ,and I have also found out it has a different cam than what came in the car,I have no idea what it is,but the mechanic said after taking apart my oil pan and going all the way up underneath it,that the cam(shaft) has different lobes or something than what is supposed to be in there.I just cant believe it runs again,and my friends now say,THE SHITBOX LIVES AGAIN!!!!.I want to thank all of you for helping,even though you guys didn't know the real problem.Thanks again,as I will be ripping every corner hard in it untill it dies again,lol.I beg of you guys to please move this thread to where it will be usefull. -Update.I replaced too many things to list,but the one thing that made a difference today was a K&N short ram I took off my friends car at a junkyard his dad owns.It was a carburated LXi that he modified the K&N short ram from.I slapped it on in double quick time after doing many more things like spark plugs and wires,tires and exhaust(striaght pipe modified),and to my surprise ran a 14.7 in the quarter mile.I almost shit my pants just now,and I will leave you thinking about how long it took me to fix this car,considering it was just a distrubutor that kept it from running that time,for an extremley long time(6 months approx.).

[A20A1]

Phh, :) my head just exploded. glad you got it fixed.

[NeoCloud]

I just have to ask,how the hell was the distributor cap shutting off the car after it got hot after 5 minutes,I found that quite mind-boggling.I have done almost everything you guys said to the carb with a rebiuld kit and spare parts from another carb,and now it chokes and opens and closes fine.It had a weak spring that was rusted out for the choke top plate,but thats not what was shutting off car after it got hot,cause I found out by jamming the plate open.I thank you again A20 for that info.-Cleans up A20's brains off floor and stuff's them back into crainum(lol).

[A20A1]

I'm not sure why...
There are plenty of things going on 5 mnuets into the warmup depending on the outside temp.

Maybe it has to do with resistance or the fuel mixture or both.

5 minuets in and things are starting or already hot. Heat add resistance and so it was harder to get spark maybe.

I know you found carbon but also the oil in the head could leak into the distibutor if you have a bad distributor o-ring.

Depending on the conditions, you have the cold start fast idle on the carb kicking off or down one knotch so maybe the lowered rpms were too low to run under the conditions of your distributor.
As the car warms up your vacuum advance #25 starts to sut off which also begins to lower the rpm of the car.

The higher rpm durring fast idle and #25 vacuum advance could have aided the car and kept it running since the alternator puts out more power or the power is at least more stable with higher revs.

If the distributor cap seal was bad moisture could have gotten in.

Or simply the cap formed too much deposits from not making good contact to fire

[NeoCloud]

The last suggestion is the one every1 I talked to said it was.Please move this thread and rename it where it will be usefull,if you guys see it fit,because this problem has made me a very bitter man untill I fixed it,lol.I think it was a combination of oil and carbon buildup in distributor,along with the other things you said,but nothing to do with fuel,as I have replaced every line and filter and the pump,and tweaked carb sight glass.The fuel pump did stop working,because the filter was black,but that had a minimal impact with the distributor not working properly,but also the combination of both could have been the problem,I believe.You have pinned the advance #25 right on the head,because I did check it by unplugging it when the car was running,and allthough it did not shut off,it idled down alot,causing my carb to spit fuel out a little untill it did shut off.Everything I have mentioned was done before I even thought about checking the stupid distributor,and my instincts,lol.I also have one last question maybe you guys answered allready.There is a stem coming off the bottom left side of the original air tray that is bigger than any of the other ones on there for a vacuum line and I forgot where it goes.-Note:I have done everything to the car in this post that I said I would carb,filters,fuel related components,wire harness(I am still in the process of making one out of really good wire)tires,everything to do with spark,interior,sound,exhaust,re-building body panels by tack welding plates of sheet and so-on.Do I qualify for either being obsessed with my car or a 3geezer yet?lol,j/k.

[A20A1]

left side is #16 vacuum hose. Although it is not labled...

Or do you mean the stem below the inlet for the air box... and it;s located below a diaphragm... if so this is where you should connect the pre-heater hose. It's a fiber like hose that clamps from the air box to the heat sheild to pick up hot air as part of the preheating.

[NeoCloud]

Yes,the vacuum hose,not the heater hose that we don't need in the summertime for preheating in Florida,lol.What kind of vacuum line goes from by the carb #16 to the bottom of air tray where I said...is it different sizes on each end or something,cause I connected #16 from by the carb to the rear left side stem of tray.The stem I cant figure out is kind of poking out left and more to the front of the car and tray than the one I connected #16 to.It is also bigger than any of the /32 size vacuum lines.

[A20A1]

http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=38108
in the vacuum diagram it goes from the green colored valve to the bottom of the air box.

[NeoCloud]

-Update,just wrecked into a ditch after the hood flew up and bent to the shape of the window.The window survived,with just a small crack below the wiper.I am ok,got jarred into the roof with my head pretty hard,and hit my bad shoulder into the door.I inspected the hood latch and bracket and noticed 2 screws missing from it,but I don't think that was the complete cause.I saw the corner of the right windshield corner bracket lift up 1st when the hood came back over the windshield.When I looked at it,the hole that wraps around the pivot rivet was ripped open on the hood.The rivet and the bracket are fine,but the hood lifted right there when it came up,then unlatched itself from the vibrating main latch under the front of the hood,I believe.My alternator has also went,but I just now noticed it,as the battery cable came off during my hood flipping adventure,or maybe it was off before the hodd came open.Anyway,I think its the alternator,cause when it came off the positve post,the car shut off after about 10 seconds.I need to look at how-to threads all over again to figure out how to get the belt and brackets off for the alternator.I lost the line that goes from the white thing(forgot name) to line the 5/16 size air tray hook up.The car revs from 1,500 to 3,250 and gets stuck sometimes at 3,250.I have pulled the two screws and throttle stop all the way backed out on the carb,does nothing,same revs,same everything.I think the throttle cable might be sticking OR,one of my friends said the bad alternator might be making it rev and get stuck,or something related in someway,somehow,I don't know.thanks A20 for that info I found from that link to thread.-I can't find a how-to remove the alternator.Could you guys just tell me if you have to take the battery cables off or anything special like the belts or if I might be missing a tensioner nut on the bracket next to the alternator?

[lostforawhile]

yeah water in the tank will have a similar effect to running lean, pour some rubbing alcohol in the tank if it keeps happening, it's supposed to blend the water and fuel to burn or make the water evaporate, whatever.
use dry gas like gas line antifreeze rubbing alchol is 50 percent water

[lostforawhile]

did you know there is a sensor under the drivers side fender that senses barometric pressure? mine likes to act up too somtimes have got to check into it. thats where all those vacuume hoses that disappear into the fender go

[POS carb]

when I still had all the stock emmissions crap I never messed with that. The altitude compensation is handled by the Air Jet Controller by the torque rod engine mount. It has 3 lines labled "A""B""C". Moving the screw in leans out the setting

[NeoCloud]

Finally got the alternator in by filing the bottom of it where the hole meets the bracket because there was a burred kinda excess metal on the outside of the hole.I accidentally left the battery cable(positive side)off for a week and my battery is dead.I am charging it before I try to start the car because I think thats what your supposed to do.I really hope this fixes it,but I am unsure because it was chugging low idle really bad before the alt. went.I thought it might be the alt. because on my other cars,it did the same thing when it goes.They would chug low like there wasnt enough spark to ignite the gas or something like that.I think it might be the coil but I am not sure.I severley need to get my plugs changed again,because I think it was missing on a cylinder or two before everything happened.-Update,the car is alive and runs kinda chuggy,there is also a loud ass squeak when I turn the lights on or press the brake unless I have the idle up to about 2grand.This might be from the denso labeled vacuum hose that goes to it is off and broke.Also the chugging doesnt occur untill revs are to 5grand when fully heated.All fluids are at normal levels and everthing else checks out fine.Please reply you guys with something for me.

[lostforawhile]

yea some of the diagrams show it and some don't even my underhood decal doesn't show it but the hoses leading to under the fender are there. sometimes if you spill power steering fluid pr have a leak it will eat up those hoses they run right under the resevoir. my book shows it being there

[kilgorq]

yea some of the diagrams show it and some don't even my underhood decal doesn't show it but the hoses leading to under the fender are there. sometimes if you spill power steering fluid pr have a leak it will eat up those hoses they run right under the resevoir. my book shows it being there

I Solved the problem with mine. I Replaced the cap rotor and cleaned and it has cleared up. Sorry for the delay on an update. I Wound up wait another project car. 85' Lude. Lokking for parts for it if anyone has some.

[NeoCloud]

-Update,got car running,but I need vacumm lines.I need the one that goes to the white thingy on the left side of carb to the air tray,I think it is 5/16 size?also I need a couple other lines,I think they are #28 or #23,and line 11.I think they are size 5/32?It runs really good now,but after about 4 or 5 grand in revs or when the secondary front carb plate opens,the motor starts backfiring and missing sounding,maybe from the vacumm lines,I dunno,please answer with anything.

[A20A1]

First off I think we or at least I deserve a kick in the behind for not suggesting the distributor cap and rotor first, seing as it's a simple thing to check.

I'm unsure on the vacuum line sizes, I know 5/32 is the majority of the vacuum lines, and I beleive 3/8 was another one. I'm not sure what was 5/16 but it's inbetween the two... may be good to buy if the other two don't work out.


Don't mind my random thoughts:
5/16 is probably the size of the vacuum port near the fuel bowl window tapping into venturi vacuum of the primary barrel. Also the Fuel line size is 1/4 and 5/16 right? cause the stock filter has two nipple sizes... I dunno I'm just trying to think where 5/16 comes in.

I'm kinda stuck at the moments as to why you're backfiring when the secondary opens... I'll have to go over what you'v already checked in previous posts tomorrow to respond with any help.

[NeoCloud]

I finally got everything,every line,vacumm cylenoids/relays(I dunno what theyre called,niether does the junkyard so they charged me 4 dollars for every one of them and called them vacumm canisters,which is wrong,there are three of them)I think I figured out the backfiring problem.Some1 suggested compression is too high because of the cam and straight exaust pipe,and plugs and wires.I am going to try all of that,since the car is running fine now,considering I just hit about 55 in 2nd gear,lol.You name it,I probably replaced it so far on this car,engine bay wise and fuel pump and lines wise.I got the 5/16 air tray vacumm line,and the other three that connect to the air tray.I made a crappy CAI out of my stock intake tube by shoving it under the front right wheel well near the tranny and the battery,then lengthened it and slapped a cone filter on the end,also making sure the brake lines arent touching it,as I heard that is bad or something.I almost took off an old civic air tray so I can run my short ram Injen intake out of it,but I dont think the tubing is the same size or will fit.The backfiring is not so bad now after I fixed all the lines and put the air tray on.At least I dont have to throw everything into the prelude now,because this car is workable with,I hope.

[NeoCloud]

I Solved the problem with mine. I Replaced the cap rotor and cleaned and it has cleared up. Sorry for the delay on an update. I Wound up wait another project car. 85' Lude. Lokking for parts for it if anyone has some.
I have an 88 lude,but I dunno what you can use on it.
Excellence through ghetto engineering and lots of carb cleaner.:-)LOL,POS. I thinking of using NGK V-Power plugs again,but I was wondering if the bosch's are better?Also some1 plz tell me which plug wires I should use(not autolite,lol)and if the wire lengths matter when changing them.The car runs awesome other than that stuff and maybe another oil change,so thank you guys.I also forgot to mention the wire harness that leads to the air conditioner control and to the deck inside is fried.If I plug the cd player in the back of it,my headlights start flipping,and wierd noises start occuring.I need to rewire everything,I am trying to anyway.I might just get another honda and do a motor transplant or something,I was gonna use the lude.Bu if it is possible to replace the dash wiring in this car,or whatever it is,I will just keep this one then.I dont plug in the cd player anymore,for I am scared its gonna start a fire or something,lol.

[NeoCloud]

heh-just got a freakin plastic bag stuck to my exhaust,it came outta nowhere like it was meant to melt to my exhaust pipe,lol.

[lostforawhile]

I have an 88 lude,but I dunno what you can use on it.
Excellence through ghetto engineering and lots of carb cleaner.:-)LOL,POS. I thinking of using NGK V-Power plugs again,but I was wondering if the bosch's are better?Also some1 plz tell me which plug wires I should use(not autolite,lol)and if the wire lengths matter when changing them.The car runs awesome other than that stuff and maybe another oil change,so thank you guys.I also forgot to mention the wire harness that leads to the air conditioner control and to the deck inside is fried.If I plug the cd player in the back of it,my headlights start flipping,and wierd noises start occuring.I need to rewire everything,I am trying to anyway.I might just get another honda and do a motor transplant or something,I was gonna use the lude.Bu if it is possible to replace the dash wiring in this car,or whatever it is,I will just keep this one then.I dont plug in the cd player anymore,for I am scared its gonna start a fire or something,lol.the ngk v power had a thread on here somewhere about those. the engine was designed to run on the vpower plug because of the lean mixture. honda engineers worked with ngk to find the best plug for this engine. the stock plug is the vpower. it should be on your hood decal. as far as plug wires i went through several sets of cheap plug wires finally got a set from nappa i think they are belden, they look and fit just like the oem wires.

[lostforawhile]

I finally got everything,every line,vacumm cylenoids/relays(I dunno what theyre called,niether does the junkyard so they charged me 4 dollars for every one of them and called them vacumm canisters,which is wrong,there are three of them)I think I figured out the backfiring problem.Some1 suggested compression is too high because of the cam and straight exaust pipe,and plugs and wires.I am going to try all of that,since the car is running fine now,considering I just hit about 55 in 2nd gear,lol.You name it,I probably replaced it so far on this car,engine bay wise and fuel pump and lines wise.I got the 5/16 air tray vacumm line,and the other three that connect to the air tray.I made a crappy CAI out of my stock intake tube by shoving it under the front right wheel well near the tranny and the battery,then lengthened it and slapped a cone filter on the end,also making sure the brake lines arent touching it,as I heard that is bad or something.I almost took off an old civic air tray so I can run my short ram Injen intake out of it,but I dont think the tubing is the same size or will fit.The backfiring is not so bad now after I fixed all the lines and put the air tray on.At least I dont have to throw everything into the prelude now,because this car is workable with,I hope.
whoever told you that your cam increased compression or your open exaust increased compression is full of s*** the only thing that will change compression is to change the rods,the pistons, or the head. all your exaust will do is help your motor run cooler by letting the exaust gasses escape eaisier. mine pops too thats because all those resonator chambers aren't in the exaust anymore to muffle the sound. thats why honda put all those there and such a big ass muffler. this motor design is just like a lot of those two litre race cars from the seventies and you know what they sounded like. it's a two litre overhead cam cross flow type cylnder head with two valves per cylinder with a relativly high compression ratio. not sure if they are all iron block i know mine is anyway, with aluminum head, and it's high rpm. thats why it's so loud with an open exaust. I've got mine up to 140+horsepower an my exaust is open from the manifold back to a cherry bomb. i even made a billet resonator tip so i could get that sound. drive between two buildings and it sounds like you are going down the straightaway at indy. i'm considering putting in an intercom system so i can talk to my wife without shouting. :D

[NeoCloud]

the ngk v power had a thread on here somewhere about those. the engine was designed to run on the vpower plug because of the lean mixture. honda engineers worked with ngk to find the best plug for this engine. the stock plug is the vpower. it should be on your hood decal. as far as plug wires i went through several sets of cheap plug wires finally got a set from nappa i think they are belden, they look and fit just like the oem wires.
I am not sure if they were stock,but I had Denso plugs in it before I changed them.

[NeoCloud]

whoever told you that your cam increased compression or your open exaust increased compression is full of s*** the only thing that will change compression is to change the rods,the pistons, or the head. all your exaust will do is help your motor run cooler by letting the exaust gasses escape eaisier. mine pops too thats because all those resonator chambers aren't in the exaust anymore to muffle the sound. thats why honda put all those there and such a big ass muffler. this motor design is just like a lot of those two litre race cars from the seventies and you know what they sounded like. it's a two litre overhead cam cross flow type cylnder head with two valves per cylinder with a relativly high compression ratio. not sure if they are all iron block i know mine is anyway, with aluminum head, and it's high rpm. thats why it's so loud with an open exaust. I've got mine up to 140+horsepower an my exaust is open from the manifold back to a cherry bomb. i even made a billet resonator tip so i could get that sound. drive between two buildings and it sounds like you are going down the straightaway at indy. i'm considering putting in an intercom system so i can talk to my wife without shouting. :D Well I wasnt being technical enough,I know,and I knew it wasnt the cam or the exhaust causing such high compression,Ill have to get another reading,I forgot what it was at.But I do have some sort of compression problem,Im not sure if it is too high,but I get this huge ass backfire sometimes when ovverreved to about 6 grand.It doesnt occur all the time,just once in a while.I think when the cam was done the rods were done too,I didnt get into the detail of that part.Also my fuel window on the carb is adjusted slightly above halfway,because it shut off once when I put it at half window one time.I cant figure it out,but the car runs awesome after I just changed the oil,plugs,wires,fuel filter,lines,pump,short ram injen,radiator,hoses,vacumm lines,and many more little things like the dist.cap was my whole problem in the 1st place.I am just worried about it burning out my plugs from burning too rich or any related causes.

[NeoCloud]

hey guys,my car shut off again,it runs for 15 minutes and shuts off sometimes but rarely chugging a little,but most of the time just shuts off with no hesitation or its something anything sounding bad.The only thing that I havent replaced is the fuel filter and the coil,which are the only things everyone thinks is the problem.Another friend something like variuos sensors like the o2 sensor or something.Just help me with your godly wisdom of infinite honda parts and tell me that it is just a 4 dollar part or something like that.

[A20A1]

Check and double check the stator reluctor gap.

Also make sure the solenoid at the back of the carb works... I dunno what else to say.

Clean battery terminals... bleh :(

I wish I had my spare coil to give you...

Why haven't you replaced the fuel filter... I bypassed the rear filter and hooked up a good filter in the engine bay. If you're stingy for money do it that way.

[NeoCloud]

I am finally back online for a little while after my move,and it is nice to see this site and you guys and your last post I never got to see A20,lol.I wish I could tell you that the car is still running after fixing it with a fuel pump and a couple other things,but the main problem was the alternator,so I replaced that,took me a while with your guys help to roll it around the engine bay.Then I drove it 200 miles and got to the other side of florida with it in Port Charlotte.Then it died,2 days after I got here,I was driving going about 55mph and it stalled,so I threw it in 3rd gear and roll jump-started it 8 times and miraculously made it home.I let it run idle in my driveway countless numers of times untill it shuts off at different time intervals every time,there is no shutting off pattern to it this time.Then eventually it wouldnt start at all,but cranks over just fine.At first I thought it was fuel,but I am pretty sure it is the module in the distributor because it is the last thing on the car I havent replaced spark wise.Or at least I think,if you guys know of anything else besides the wires,coil,plugs,alternator(the list doesnt go much further than that for spark)battery...etc,lemme know if theres something I am missing.I took off the fuel line to the carb and it shoots gas pretty far,so I know it cant be a fuel problem.I had 5 people of experts and mechanics tell me its not fuel.The bill at the shop is 353 dollars for a new distributor with labor cost and everything,and I feel ripped off by my car,lol.And where and what the hell is the stator reluctor cap?

[NeoCloud]

I am thinking of trying to sell the car for 900 (US)Dollars...the catch is the distributor,so it is actually worth about 600 to me now to sell.I will try to post pics and defects descriptions soon,but it will be a little while.I don't know anyone that wants it yet,but a buddy wants to throw a H22 in it and rag it out on the track till it dies.If any of you guys know anyone lemme know,beacause I don't know if it is worth saving or selling.I would do anything to fix it if you guys can get me a cheap working distributor that you got lying around.I will do anything dammit!lol.