Almost no fast idle

[bl9366]

Guys,

Due to the many problems I've had with my old carb I've just put in a remanufactured carb since I figured it was just too costly to replace any single items.

The problem I'm getting is that when I'm going to work in early mornings I get a fast idle around 2k. But without even warming up I can tap the gas and the fast idle disengages and it drops to normal idle IMMEDIATELY, which is very different than before.

Is there something wrong here? Cuz before the carb swap the idle will drop to about 1500 when I tap the gas after 5-7 mins of warming up, and then drops to normal idle while I'm driving. I've checked that all hoses are routed correctly and there's no vacuum leak or cracked rock-hard hoses.

Does that sound like something's wrong and what should I check?

Thanks guys. :sadwave:

Byron

[DanG86LX]

Is all choke heater - bimetallic spring inside choke housing. With engine off, and tapping the gas, choke flap should close completely.
1st unplug #18 and #19 from choke diaphragms (and plug the rubber lines).
From cold start, If high idle goes through 4 steps as u tap the gas say every 15sec, then thermovalve A might be faulty..
But if nothing changed then bimetallic spring might be too weak. Try rotating choke heater ccw (the one held there by 3 rivets/screws). Or try the one from the old carb, that one u said was good. Actually u may replace the whole choke assembly.

[bl9366]

Thanks for your help Dan!!!

Can you please tell me if I followed your directions correctly so that I can go check the carb?

1)So I should go check the choke when cold, making sure that it's closed completely? Is this what you meant?

2)Can you please explain again how to check the thermovalve A? Me dumb and I lost you after "unplugging hoses 18 and 19...."

I had to return the old carb for the core fee so I don't have the old choke assembly. Sucks. :ugh:

Thanks again.

Byron

[TheSummoner101]

1)So I should go check the choke when cold, making sure that it's closed completely? Is this what you meant?
think thats a two person job, one person tapping the gas, other checking the choke....not sure tho.

[HondaBoy]

hey bl9366, if i may ask, how much was that remanufactured carb? and where did you get it from? mine is needing to be rebuild here soon. it is nice to have another person help you when working on the carb though.

[DanG86LX]

bl9366,
1. Yes, as u normally do when u start the engine when cold, u suppose to pump gas pedal 1..4 times function of how cold outside.
2. No, I did not expect u to check thermovalve A, if it was good be4, proly is still good now. But by unplugging #18 and #19 from "Fast Idle Unloader" (FIU) u disable it. FIU is doing same job as u do when tapping gas pedal to bring fast idle down. As u look at choke ass. from passenger side, FIU is at the left of choke housing.

[bl9366]

You've been of great help. I followed your instructions and checked the choke and the fast idle unloader and everything; they seem okay. Many thanks again.

Today, I turned the fast idle screw even more, now it's at 2500. I'm getting a much "stronger" pump for the fast idle and when I stepped on the gas without warming up, it won't drop to idle right away like before. It goes down by itself a minutes later so it should be okay now.

Thanks again, :alc:
Byron

[bl9366]

duplicate post

[bl9366]

I got it thru my mechanic friend who ordered it from Honda for $475 CDN (with 1 yr warranty and "supposed" to be discounted already). I think it was $125 for the core and $15 for freight.

I've had way too many intermittent problems with the carb and it costed me way too much money and time. So I decided to replace it. I've had my car for 10 years and never needed a tow. This year alone, I needed a tow 3 times and that alone was over $180. What pissed me off the most was that she started after being towed to my home. At that time, I checked that I had good fuel pressure, good spark, right float, but NO stream of gas squirting in the carb when gased. Next thing you know the thing started and gas was squirting out again. Compression was good as well. One cylinder compression was a tiny bit lower than the other 3 but still within specs. Anyhow, there was a whole bunch of other shit, all intermittent, like fast idle won't drop, can't set idle to stay (found no vacuum leaks either), but at other times she's smooth like butter.

Anyhow I narrowed down the problem to be the choke, and Honda told me that alone costs $140 + tax. And if something else fucks it'll be pretty expensive for each individual item. So I decided to get a remanufactured carb. Now she's smooth all the time, warms up quick, and pulls very well and no longer sluggish no matter how cold it is.

Byron

[A20A1]

think thats a two person job, one person tapping the gas, other checking the choke....not sure tho.

You can pull on the throttle cable or rotate the linkage from inside the engine bay.