other radiators???

[nappyroots827]

well, i was thinking ahead to my turbo plans tonight and a though came across my mind...does anyone know if radiators from other cars fit in our cars?? i wanted to get a fluidyne radiator or something like that for down the road when i do turbo, i mean, if im gonna do it, i wanna do it right and do every last thing so i don't drive down the road enjoying my boost and while my engine overheats, and if anything, with my car being a show car, its just part of it, the more name aftermarket the less stock the better...so how bout it?? anyone know or have done it??

[AccordEpicenter]

i dont think so, i have a koyo aluminum rad and the car runs cool as can be, even with the turbo, retarded timing and the bigass FMIC in the way of it... Oh and 1 fan... I dont know how accordtheory did with his lil civic half radiator...

[nappyroots827]

koyo makes aluminum ones?? im just tryin to get away from that ugly black, haha, i guess ill look into that, probably a crap load cheaper than fluidyne as well, thanks, ill check into it, my car runs plenty cool right now but when i throw an ic infront i figure it will heat up a lil bit

[AccordEpicenter]

well it has plastic endtanks and its painted black, so its not bright like a fluidyne... I paid like less than $100 shipped on ebay. The aluminum radiators cool better than the brass core ones

[nappyroots827]

damn, thats cheap, would i be entering a new level of afro engineering if i painted my radiator silver??? lol :cool:

[AccordEpicenter]

what were you gonna paint it, mexican chrome?

[Vanilla Sky]

i thought they were copper... and last time i checked, copper exchanges heat better... and computer guy can tell you this... why do you think they use all copper heatsinks in computers when they can? the least they do is use a copper plug to contact the CPU core... i think a technique like that would work here, too... copper tubing with aluminum fins...

the reason fluidyne rads are good is because of surface area... look at how thick they are... IMO, a fluidyne is one of the best cooling upgrades you can make to your car...

another cooling upgrade you can make is an oil cooler... less chance of thermal breakdown, but that's another subject...

[shepherd79]

i believe a few members on this board use civic radiators. they are smaller. you have to modify the top plate to hold it, but that shouldn't be a problem.

[nappyroots827]

yeah, an oil cooler is definately in the need to buy book since im doin turbo, but ive already thought of that, and another thing, i don't wanna get into much more surface area cuz im kinda limited as it is for an intercooler fitting between the radiator and the hood latch support thingy, unless i put it in front, but i don't know how id mount it then :hs:

[Vanilla Sky]

well, if you don't have your AC condenser, you have that room to play with... that's what, two inches to play with?

[AccordEpicenter]

an oil cooler is good. Copper isnt as good a heat conductor as aluminum. Aluminum is hard to beat... Im not trying to knock you vanilla sky, but i havent seen nearly as many copper heat sinks as extruded aluminum ones (somtimes the anodizing can make it look like copper). We use Iron blocks, and cast iron tends to hold in alot of heat, so its harder to cool, so i would stay away from a civic type or any significantly smaller radiator, ours is nearly 2x the size of one of them, and its for a reason, they have aluminum blocks and are smaller engines anyway. Aluminum blocks radiate heat much better than cast iron

[Vanilla Sky]

anodizing hinders the heat exchange... copper coloured heatsinks are copper... aluminum is used because it's cheaper...

anyway, this is an automotive site...

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=330744&highlight=heat+transfer+copper+aluminum
just a few words about copper vs. aluminium...

one advantage aluminium has over copper is weight... cost is another advantage...

[nappyroots827]

yeah, when i did the efi swap, i removed my ac system, so w/o the condenser i'd say i have about 2.5-3 inches between the hood latch thing and the radiator, but im actually thinking i may put the intercooler infront of all that and put the oil cooler infront of the radiator instead, cuz the intercooler will be much more visible and will recieve a much better frow if i put it out in front

[Versanick]

By May, I'm about to install a 90-93 integra Fluidyne radiator that I bought (around $400, yuck). The mounting brackets are different (but they will be very easy to fabricate, going to the hardware store, bending some metal, and being creative). The core size is the same as our radiators. I'll let you all know how it works, if your projects aren't done by then..

[2ndgenludedude1986]

yea i was thinking that teg rads were pretty close to ours. i jsut want a fluidyne becasue there oh so pretty!

[Justin86]

Yea I have look at pretty much every honda rad possible. The 90-93 teg is the closest fit but the top mounting points are different, not sure about the botom? The civic rad will work also with mods and you get more room for the turbo.

[Accordtheory]

i have an aftermarket civic radiator, and it seems to work ok. The temp guage has always stayed below the middle, although I haven't held the car much over 120mph for that long. The civic radiator is cool because it gives you room for plenty of other shit. Most guys use the fluidyne civic radiator for their turbo b series buildups, I see them in the magazines all the time, like in that white del sol at the back of I think Modified Magazine(?) with 737 WHP.. fucking insane, makes my car look like a pathetic joke

[Justin86]

yea and in new import tuner there is a 550whp 00 TypeR daily driven for over a year with a 2.5" aluminum civic/teg rad, with no problems. ;)

[dillirk]

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=GRI%2D2%2D28185%2DX&N=120+4294924500+4294923432+300674
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=FLX%2D365&N=120+4294924500+4294924499+300594

Buy one of each of these and a 25 pound rad cap and double clamp all your hoses and you will never over heat no matter how hard you try. And its about 4 inches narrower than ours so if you mount to the drivers side you will have room to run your IC pipes on the pass side.

All that and its only about $400 all together.

[Accordtheory]

Why the hell do you say to use a 25lb cap and double clamp your hoses??
p.s. Can someone please tell me how to change that "dx user" shit under my name? my car is an lxi and that's really starting to piss me off!

[dillirk]

LOL!

The 25 lb cap keeps the pressure in the cooling system the double clamps keep the coolant in when the pressure rises. By allowing the pressure to rise the boiling point rises. I dont know how many degrees per psi. If you keep your coolant in liquid form it still transfers heat and cools your engine. When it boils and turns to steam the heat transfer slows to the point that it is useless and you overheat. This is not something the average guy needs. I just threw it in as an extra. My dad has been running this same set up in his Pinto for 8 years. He discovered by accident that his engine likes heat. The hotter it gets the faster it goes. He runs it between 240 and 260 during his feature every saterday night. The only bad thing for this is he has to replace the starter after every race cuz it cant handle the heat. Last winter he discovered a small crack in the very bottom of one of his cylinders no doubt from the night he figgured it out. His radiator pushed the fan into the water pump and it stopped working so his temp started to rise. Since he was leading and had never one a race he stayed out figguring it would cost him $400 to replace all the parts that he just f***ed up he might as well see if he could win half of it.

The DX user thing will change when you have more posts. I think it goes DX LX LXi SEi then veteran.

[Accordtheory]

I have no idea what you are talking about with the pinto..cooler engine = denser intake charge, and more octane tolerance, meaning you can run a more aggressive timing curve with the fuel mixture closer to stoich. I would never run anything over 220, and I would never increase the cooling system pressure..have you heard of evans npg coolant? that would pretty much eliminate any need for that shit anyway

[Dr._8t9LX]

Can someone please tell me how to change that "dx user" shit under my name? my car is an lxi and that's really starting to piss me off!

LOL that was rich!!! Welcome to the board....Keep posting, you'll get there :)

I think the hot vs cool engine issue is about finding that middle point, where the cold block is not sucking away power as heat, but not so hot that he things expanding the intake. Maybe in the Pintos case the heat helps vaporize the intake charge...I dont know.

[dillirk]

We dont understane it either. When he first told me what he was running I told him he was full of shit untill I saw the temp guage after a race. My best guess is it thins out the 20-50 oil for less drag. Or maybe the intake charge doesnt heat up untill its in side the cylinder expanding and increasing the compression. He is running bigger jets than anyone else he races against.

he does run napa cool and the pink anti freeze its the best thing he is alowd to run that he can find. And 38-42 deg timing. Whitch is the other reason a stock starter cant handle.

You are rite though... no one in their rite mind would intentionaly run an engine over 200.

[b20a86lude]

well i had a 90-93 integra radaitor in my 2nd gen lude and i had to custom the hoses and and was a semi loose fit it plugged up fine to with integ fan i just needed some custom brackets to make it work but i never did and the car got toweed away so i don tknwo where it is now probaly in a melting pot hahah

[nappyroots827]

well how bout my luck, the other day the top hose inlet just snapped off my radiator when i tried to take the hose off...well i got my new radiator from work with a discount, came out to around 80 bucks for a civic radiator, looks good, and i have plenty of ic pipe room